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Isuzu Off Roading/Trail Reports
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Comments
I am going to get a cable puller, extension cable and tree saver strap for recovery. That along with my 30 ft tow strap should be enough to get me out of anything I encounter for under $100.
-mike
Do a search for "cable" and it is the first entry.
I think standard rules apply. Make sure all cables/chains/hooks are rated for the amount of force you are using. All bystanders are well out of the way. Use tree straps, hook on to frame/appropriate tow hooks. Wear gloves.
How does this minimal kit look to you?
Item # Description Status Wt Price Qty Total
11239 4-Ton Capacity Cable Hoist/Puller In Stock 15 $29.99
1938 Tree-Saver Winch Strap In Stock 1 $5.99
331695 7ft. x 1in. Flex Tow Rope Stretches to 14 Feet! In Stock 2 $6.99
Total Weight (Pounds): 18 Order Total: $42.97
-mike
a)By longer cable you mean kind of an extension cable to the cable host/puller, or get a puller with a longer one?
b) Based on a similar logic, isn't the tow rope(presumably tangle free and extensible to 14') too short as well?
c) Is one tree strap enough?
d) Would a regular car shop parts(e.g. Canadian Tire) carry those items? Similar quality?
It seems that those guys from www.northerntool.com
might nt ship to Canada(and on top of it I hate the customes charged when using UPS!)
-mike
We have a cell phone but there is no coverage in those national parks
Even worse we don't have friends with SUVs so we usually go off-road(not much, more like old forest roads to get to better camping and fishing areas, etc) alone
Thanks for the hints!
I was trying to find a matching aircraft cable for the 4 tone hand winch from the same supplier, but with not much luck so far at northentool.com
On the other hand recoverygear.com says that they have all kind of replacement winch cable(but of course they don't have the winches), but I couldn't see the same size(as the winch cable 1/4 in) yet....
When I've asked you the question, I wanted to save money by getting only the tow strap, but now I'm reconsidering...
Also found about:
The Hi-Lift Jack is an essential part of your off-road recovery equipment. Whether you need to clear an obstacle on which the vehicle has become high-centered, or whether you're simply changing a tire, a Hi-Lift jack will enable you to raise the vehicle safely and quicky, with greater ease and to a much greater height than by using the stock jack that came with your vehicle. A Hi-Lift jack has a multitude of other uses and applications too - for example, the vehicle can be moved sideways by lifting one end of the vehicle and carefully "toppling" the jack in the required direction, or the Hi-Lift jack can be used as a hand-operated winch to pull the vehicle when the vehicle's main recovery winch cannot be used. Rated 7,000lb when used as a jack, 5,000lb as a winch or hoist.
http://www.bb4wa.com/hilift_jack.htm
The Australians seem very fond of it, what do you guys think?
Another idea could be aluminum traction bars ( I only had some cheap plastic ones in the past for my sedan)...
They also suggest...a couple of guys with shovels...:)
Question about your "pull-pal": does it only work if you have the winch attached to the truck, right? I wasn't planning of installing an electric winch, but only a hand-winch or the above mentioned hi-lift jack
-mike
On hand winches - they work if you get a big enough one, with a snatch block to double your pulling power. The drawbacks, they take time to drag out and set up, use, and put away. They are very slow, it takes forever to move a really stuck rig far enough to get unstuck, and it's a serious workout to crank on one under a heavy load. While you're cranking on the winch you're often in a dangerous position if anything lets go (cable breaks and lashes back, anchor tree falls, vehicle rolls free and tries to crush you, etc. Other than that they're great : )
Hi Lift Jacks are pretty standard off road equipment. You can use one for a recovery winch but they are very cumbersome , difficult to use, and dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. On steeper slopes / creek crossings, when the cable tightens the jacking angles can be difficult, and you can only winch the length of the jack before resetting the cables. When resetting you may have to chock the vehicle to keep it from rolling back in a hole.
The Hi Lift Jack works pretty well for raising a stuck vehicle, shoving stuff under tires, etc. I've also used them to shove a vehicle sideways in a bad situation. The Hi Lift provides brute lifting power when you need it but it is an inherently dangerous piece of equipment that has great potential to damage you and your vehicle if you're not careful. Read the warnings carefully before using - and even better - have an experienced buddy show you the ropes.
Some things I've seen with Hi Lifts - jack unexpectedly tips sideways and slides out dropping vehicle with no warning, jack handle left in down position gets bumped and swings up violently with enough force to kill, jack slides out and gouges big scratch in grill or tailgate... get the picture?
My personal preference is to go with other folks and make sure someone has a winch (I have a Warn 8000 from another rig I haven't installed on my Trooper yet). I carry enough straps and chain (and a shovel and tire chains) to get out of just about anything. If there's not a winch in the group, or I'm traveling alone, I'm a lot more conservative in where I go. (Too many bad experiences /long walks). Even with a winch mounted on my last rig - we used a heavy duty snatch strap more than anything for vehicle recovery. It was easier and faster to use.
Hand winching and a Hi Lift will work in a pinch, and it's certainly cheaper than an electric winch, but there are some drawbacks to consider. Hope this helps folks sort out the merits of the various recovery options so they can make informed decisions.
-mike
How does a snatch block work?
Is it the same with a pull-pal?
Does one have to hung it to tree branch???
I'd also prefer to go with other folks(but so far know none with SUVs) and I'll get a tow strap anyhow...:)
BTW: Aren't chains dangerous?
So with our '99 Rodeo we have no place to hook up the hi-lift jack?
Would you please be so kind to let me know what exact cable did you(or plan to) get?
E.g. the winch said it had a 1/4in cable, but I couldn't see any replacement or extension cables of that diameter at either northerntool.com nor at recoverygear.com...
Thanks,
Marian
PS
What about the pull-pal or snatch block idea?
http://www.warn.com/Home/
Basically they're heavy duty pulleys you can anchor to a large tree or other stationary object. You run your cable from your winch throught the pulley and back to your vehicle.
By using a snatch block you can change the angle you're pulling from and with a straight pull you can double your pulling power. As an example, with an 8000 lb winch, using a snatch block increases your pulling power to 16,000 lbs.
On the chain thing - you're right, they are somewhat dangerous as they can break under a load. I use short lengths of heavy duty chain with heavy duty hooks for recovery jobs where I don't have enough tree straps, etc. to do the job. I try not to jerk on them unless there's a strap somewhere in the system to stretch and take the shock. Hate that abrupt stop when you hit the end of the chain : (
I also use a Warn receiver hitch insert with a heavy duty clevice on the end. Works great and it's super strong. Trailer hitch recommended load ratings aside, I think it's stronger than a tow hook. If you think about it, the hitch is attached to both sides of the frame with heavy duty bolts - so the load is distributed. The weakest point is the pin through the receiver. I've used it with a class III hitch several times and it's rock solid.
http://www.ramsey.com/2000files/accessories.html
Here's one more link to a great 4WD shop. They have lots of vehicle recovery gear.
http://www.central4wd.com/
-mike
4-Ton Capacity Cable Hoist/Puller
Puller's body is constructed of heavy duty 1/4in. thick metal. Complete with 3 safety-latch hooks. 1/4in. diameter x 12-foot cable is 5 feet long when looped.
After making a couple of phone calls to northerntools they've confirmed that it is actually a 2-ton that with its pulley gets to 4-ton capacity...
The hint for me was in the text above, one safety latch hook being probably used for the pulley, etc
I think I won't be ordering one over the Internet, anymore I'd rather go to our Canadian tire, where they seem to have the same model(but advertised as 2-ton), the same price(but in our currency that is CAN30), no S&H; I can also get the straps, chain, etc...:)
Our local store also has a 48" hi-lift jack that I am considering also, even if I'm not too sure if I can use to lift the truck(from the tow points in the front, where the brushguard supports are connected, as someone else said?)
BTW - I have been looking at buying a hand winch, but have not yet. Northerntool just so happens to be the one place I have been able to find one online.
doesn't seem to say how much it is...
-mike
WARN makes front mounted receiver hitches for some vehicles so you can mount the winch on either end. Might be possible to have one made for the Trooper.
My take on the max trailer weight is they factor in the hitch strength required to control sway or suddenly stop (slam on the brakes)a moving 5000 lb trailer at say 60 mph. That's several times more than 5000 lbs of force hitting the receiver hitch all at once.
If you used the largest WARN winch rated for a receiver hitch - the 9500, and doubled your pulling power with a snatch block - you could end up with a max of 19,000 lbs of force on the system. The load would be distributed to both sides of your frame through the receiver hitch. The weak link(s) would more likely be in the tow chain / shackles / tree straps/ cable kinks, etc. - not the hitch. My only concern is the possibility of bending the hitch pin on a really hard pull - then not being able to get it out. And I'm still trying to figure out how they get that much strength out of a 5/16 inch cable.
That said, there are some situations where you may have to winch without the engine running. The most common example is a water crossing that kills your engine. You can use the power in your battery to winch yourself out of trouble - then dry out your engine on dry land.
The best setup (if you have the room) is to install a second (deep cycle) battery in your rig and install a battery isolater to keep both charged up. That way you can completely kill the winch battery and still have another one to run on.
Another thing to remember - on a long hard pull, keep an eye on the heat build in your winch and your battery so you don't ruin them. I fried the terminals on a battery once by keeping my thumb on the remote control button too long. Didn't know there was anything wrong until smoke rolled out from under the hood.
-mike
-mike
Well I've picked sbcooke's idea and went for it: just ordered the 4 ton cable puller for $20 from cummingstools.com(I think...Anyhow the same model is at Northerntools.com for $24)...As a matter of fact S&H to Canada will cost more by UPS $
Anyhow it seems to me that it already has a snatch block incorporated(that and a thicker cable make it 4 ton, rather then a 2 ton); so probably it wouldn't be safe to try to use a second snatch block, imo...
It's still in the mail; I'll let you know...
Also about an extension cable:
a) Couldn't find one yet
b) I don't think that a longer replacement cable would fit on the drum(?), except if I'd go for nylon(plasma, Almsteeel blue, etc) rope rather then steel...But a rope is more expensive...So
c) I'll probably get some choke chain(about 20"), 'cause it's also easy to adjust the exact distance, etc
I've also got a good snatch rope and shackles(D- rings) if another SUV would happen to be around, which I doubt by the way, since we don't have friends with SUVs(yet)...Maybe the lonely ranger
Finnally I was considering the Hi-Lift jack(that can be also used for hand winching) but I gave up for now since:
a) There may be no places to use it on stock '99 Rodeo, without damaging the car. The bumper? The flimsy brush guard? Someone told me that they've used it on those tow points that the bursh guard is attached as well, but I don't quit see how
b) The long one may be very hard to store in the truck
c) Cost
Anyhow we usually don't go so much off road, only on some forrest roads, like in Algonquin park, so...
BTW any of you guys has a CB? Would they be usefull in ...Canada?
First, to stay out of the way of logging trucks in N Idaho, and NE Washington. We have a system where call out the mile markers as we pass them. Saves us from meeting on a blind corner - they can't stop when loaded.
Second, I use it to keep track of my buddies when going off road. Helps to let someone know if you get stuck, break down, or don't know which fork in the road to take. We also warn each other of deer / elk / moose in the road, oncoming vehicles, etc.
Third, I use it during hunting season to keep track of the other members in my party. I even give a hand held CB to (less experienced) hunting partners for an emergency radio. When someone is over due you can use the CB in your vehicle to locate them - even driving up to a ridgetop if necessary for better reception.
Extra cable is a good thing to have. Most of the large hardware stores here stock it and the hooks that go with it. You don't have to crank it onto the hand winch spool. You can chock a wheel, let the tension off the cable, and reset it. Sometimes your closest anchor point is 50 to 100 ft away or more. I have 150 ft of cable on my winch, a 20 ft log chain, a 30 ft snatch strap, a tree strap, shackes, snatch block, and another shorter log chain. I've had a couple pulls where I used most of it at the same time. Also pulled over a couple of hung trees where I wanted to be a long ways away when it fell ~:0
Did I mention I used to be a Boy Scout? Always Prepared : )
-mike