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As you said, 100% of the cars don't have the problems.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
What is your opinion on the reason the dealership wouldn't want to perform such service? TIA for your advice.
Thanks!
My dealer performed a drain/fill on the automatic transmission(no filter R&R) and transfer case of my wife's X3 without any hesitation- the total bill was $207. If you want to replace the filter on the newer ZF autoboxes -like your car uses- you have to replace the oil pan and filter as a unit. and the new part costs @$270. Having said that, a simple darin/fill or the AT and TC is NOT rocket science, and I'd be very inclined to tell your SA that if the foreman doesn't think his shop is competent to handle what is a very simple job then you will find a shop that is qualified.
A few other observations:
BMW still calls for a 100,000 mile ATF change on most of their automatics; what does your dealer tell those customers?
The transfer case is equipped with sensors that actually indicate when the fluid needs to be changed and will indicate a fault when hooked up to the DISplus or GT1 diagnostic computer. Does your dealer just ignore the fault and send the customers down the road in blissful ignorance?
Just my $0.02...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I can't say I've had a newer vehicle long enough to text your theory. Last vehicle I even took past the 100k mark was a '98. But if a fuel filter would last that long, what would be the point to having a filter at all? I mean, if what is coming out of your tank is THAT clean, then it certainly wouldn't hurt your engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The fact is, in-tank fuel filters in modern cars will easily last a quarter of a million miles unless you either buy horrifically bad gasoline (i.e. fuel which is nowhere near up to the minimum standards now required), and/or live in a very dusty area.
To turn the tables a bit; can you name me even a single (non-exotic) car sold in North America in the last decade that recommends periodic fuel filter replacement? I cannot.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I am picking up my new 2011 328i x-drive tomorrow. I noticed that they have done away with the ashtray that had a cover-lid and cigarette lighter and replaced it with a rubber lined cavity. Is there a way to purchase an accessory that goes in that area and that gives me that lighter socket (for a charger) and the cover?
If the outlet is your only issue, a place might be able to tap into the electric, but giving you a socket that doesn't look weird would probably be the problem.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
No problem! I've been playing with Bimmers for a while so don't hesitate to ask a question; I'm always happy to talk BMWs
So, the points that used to need lubrication are now where bushings are used?
Sometimes- but the ball joints, tie rod ends and, steering linkage are also sealed.
BMW does use a lot of bushings in their suspension systems, and they do wear out eventually, although in many cases you can source a more durable replacement from another BMW platform or the aftermarket. The 3 Series rear shock mount is a good example- there is an upgraded OEM part available as well as several good aftermarket alternatives.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
You have no choice but to file a class action. Your damages: the points and fines you could have paid to the municipality, that unbelievably, has issued you a license.
Read post # 11 for an explanation...
Or...
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2010:120:0040:0048:EN- :PDF
So, long story short, "That's not a bug, that's a feature!"
The answer is simple for you....
Don't like the product? Then, don't buy it. But, don't look at a VW, because they are said by many to have the same issue.
I can't speak for MB, but it wouldn't surprise me if they have the same issues as well....
More interesting reading on the subject...
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/02q2/speedometer_scandal!-feature
Hint: indicated speed in mph-@5 mph= true speed in mph
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I agree... It isn't the wheel diameter or circumference that has an effect, its the tire's outer circumference that determines the effect...if any.
Did you have the same experience on the 328xi, 2011? Please share. I have driven a BMW before, but never noticed such a thing. Your reply is highly appreciated.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks.
I definitely agree with your last sentence.
As you know, driving characteristics heavily influence oil quality.
I've used synthetic oils for years (well before they were "cool"), and because most of my family's trips are relatively short, I change the oil every 5K miles. But, if I had, say... a 75 mile (each way) commute 5 days a week, I would feel safe extending that 5K range to 7.5K, or maybe 10k.
I would say that, for most, the real enemy of engines is the lack of reaching true operating temperature in order to "cook out" the moisture in the oil.
That's why I find it difficult to give a "one size fits all" recommendation to someone when the ask my opinion on oil change frequency.
In the end, the only true way to determine what is best for an individual auto is a professional oil analysis...at least, IMHO...
2003 325i
http://www.bimmershops.com/
That is indeed the company line, so he's telling you what BMW suggests. Of course, all BMW is really interested in (as is every manufacturer) is getting the car through warranty, and most oil-related failures don't happen within the first 50K miles...
There are many of us that don't agree with that suggestion, and we see an oil change every 5-7.5 K miles as cheap insurance against what may be an incredibly expensive engine repair.
The oild change "timing" question on BMW's seems to be the #2 issue in new BMW's, only being surpassed by the run-flat issue.
Again, the only sure way to know the condition of YOUR oil is to get an independent oil analysis done.
Its pretty easy, and not terribly expensive.
On the other hand, I was having my wife's MINI serviced recently, and the advisor was on the phone with a client, explaining that he was getting a new engine/turbo unit on his 10 month old MINI (which was in for its first monitor-scheduled service at 18K miles) due to oil related engine failure. He was lucky, as it was under warranty.
IMO, I change it every year or 5K miles. Maybe some see that as foolish, but I have only had 1 engine related failure in all my years (I'm 56) and lots of cars, and that failure was a leaking valve guide/seal that was an issue the day I bought the car... and fixed before it had 4K miles on it.
All I can say is...."It works for me!".