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But anyways, the dealer almost killed himself to sell the car.
2010 Elantra GLS black, all power package, bluetooth,floormats PZEV, automatic. (sorry, no sunroof, because he did not have any, in black)
Final offered price was $13880 - 800 (no sunroof) + 300 (bluetooth) = $13380. I am not sure if he included destination or not, but I anyways would not have paid it and of course, tax and ttl extra.
one more catch with this offer is you have to finance thro Hyundai which is expensive. I had a local lender who offered 1.6% lesser than them also GAP was expensive by $8 per month.
This is in a southern CA dealership. I think the trick is if you do not buy it the same day, they will call you day after and agree to your offer (this is my guess)
Bought a half dozen new cars before buying the elantra and was to trusting, because
Everyone else stated a price and that what the contract stated.
He said that he would sell me the 2005 Elantra for 11,500.00 and he put on the contract
12,500.00 and Unfortunately I signed the contract because the bottom line didn’t
look out of place. The contacts are intentionally complicated and confusing.
Only discovered it a week later. So I had to eat it. Told everyone off at the dealership
And will never buy another Hyundai again. They changed there name from
Hustedt Hyhundai to Mid_island Hyundai. On long island.
Niels
Good luck and let me know how it works out.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Dealer is asking for 15,500 OTD for 2010 Elantra SE (don't think it had anything other than floor mats), including m 1999 Escort SE (97,000 Miles) for trade.
What do you think of the price? Originally, they asked for a little over 17,000 and I said it was too high.
I noticed some sound seems like the motor mount is broken, would Hyundai dealer take care of it no question asked if I take it there??
is the hyundai 5 year/60000 mile bumper to bumper warranty transferrable? Even though the car was used as a rental at one time??
I read Hyundai's site, it says:
Excludes coverage for vehicles in commercial use (i.e., taxi, route delivery, delivery service, rental, etc.).
I paid 9k out the door for the car, is it a deal? girlfriend don't like this car, I'm open to resell - in Phoenix, AZ
Commercial use exclusion is for the second owner. Rental co as the first owner is okay, so the warranty transfers over. But don't just take my word for it: email Hyundai your VIN to confirm...they'll answer back within a day or two.
23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd
do you have the link to send the email to?
thanks!
Keep hangin' with 'em girl! Happy New Year to all!!! :shades:
They didn't have "Cash for Clunkers" 2008, but I used the factory website's rebates of $2000 + internet contact before auto dealership visit for $500. The factory makes a person think it's only good for that month only that whole year! Each month they change it up or down but usually go up to $2000.
I was only able to get him an $18,500 new car 2008 in July 2008 down to $16,000. I know to never pay the "MSRP" nor the "factory invoice price" (come near it...or try to be ridiculously low the 2nd year around for my son). Then I was smarter in 2009 for my son's 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS car. I utilized "Cash 4 Clunkers" for my much older 1985 Ford Crown Victoria needing lots of work; it's engine was ready to blow! I was able to drive it there. Price was $18,900 for the same car...2009 on July, 31, 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS (but doesn't have that electronic stability control which I don't know the difference in drivability) in metallic gray color.
"Cash 4 Clunkers" gave me $4500 for my 1985 Ford Crown Victoria, internet $500 to dealership down the road, wanted to charge $13,500 and not $18,900 which I said TOO MUCH! The sales person didn't look happy dealing with me, again, a year later as he said he had to talk to the GM. The GM told the salesman to ask me to write down a figure I wanted the car to be. I wrote $10,000!!! Salesman and GM had a fit over that one!
I was ready to leave though I knew my son needed the car and mine wouldn't get him and I home 3 miles plus needed a car for college nor probably not start. I had placed lots of money in fixing with new parts that year figuring it was going to get crushed with my spending $1500 on her with these new tires and electronic components (battery related on down) and needed other things. Then they said OK to the $10,000!!! I was so happy for my son. His dad lives further away and is paying on it.
This senior citizen misses my car, but that's okay. I sold my other 2 broken down Crown Victorias we 2 needed the money and not have to look at 2 broken down Crown Victorias while thinking of mine. All I knew and drove was 1982-1987 Ford Crown Victorias for 17 years and low miles or high highway miles.
I learned to NOT buy "GAP" insurance from the dealership as it's 1/2 the cost from my auto insurance company. My auto insurance said even the 2008 being a year old could have had the GAP placed on it being a year old. Someone told me I could have saved on the factory warranty going elsewhere, but I don't know about that and was too afraid to not take their warranty at the dealership. I was refusing the lady in her office various things not necessary who specializes in those factory warranties telling her "no" to different things as the price could keep tickkering up! She did the same thing as the year before on the 2008 using scare stories about a teen's death and such peoples accidents being disabled from not having certain things. I feel I got a nice deal for my son, his keeping his mileage down with mixed driving of town and interstates, and not having to have a warranty visit at Precision Tune, yet. We get lots of coupons from the website and the lady at the counter $10 off when I had my cars.
The 2008 belongs to his dad having 36,700 miles with his traveling for his jobs (non-reimbursed), living somewhere else, and coming to visit his son at our apartment.
I wrote to ask a question here about his dad's 2008 as it takes away from my resources when he has car visits for his warranty with all the miles on it. He won't care or think about being underwater with high mileage before he can pay it off. I do as it affects me financially.
Again, I really learned alot and enjoyed comments 3268-3278. I didn't check out the rest. The one with the tinted windows and alloy wheels Hyundai sounds nice.
Enjoy your cars!
Margaret
$1,500 Rebate - from Manufacturer - nothing to do with the Dealer
$ 400 Military
$ 500 College Grad (within 6-months of graduating or graduated 6-months ago)
$1,000 Cash/Trade (this was explained to me in a funny way - it was told to me that's taking in consideration of $1,000 cash down on the car). Again - I was not born yesterday - but the way I read it is $1,000 cash for your trade-in, another dealer confirmed my thoughts.
Check out the fine print in the paper - you'll see the price reflects the discounts (ALL OF THEM BUNDLED - which you'll not receive). READ READ READ! We may head back to the Honda Dealer now over this mix-up. :mad:
van
Right now ad in paper says you can get a base model Elantra 4-door for $11,900 but that's including all the rebates no one (but perhaps a handful of people who are in military, and just graduated from college) can get. Still think it's shady how they group all discounts into the advertised printed price even though one didn't apply to the Elantra at all.
You got a great deal @ $10,000! Way to go. I suspect our deal on the E/T would have been much better if the cash for clunkers was still in effect. I applaud your good deal! Nice to hear some people do so well. :shades:
No, more like the dealers believe in padding their profit margins.
That said, it only works when you finance the car -- not buy it outright.
Last time I made the mistake of purchasing gap coverage was when buying a SUV (non-Hyundai). Paid $450 from the dealer... Realized I could get it cheaper online (~$250), and even cheaper-yet via my auto insurance (something like $6 for every 6 months). Needless to say canceled the coverage with the dealer (although it took FOREVER to get a refund).
In my case, the auto insurance route was the lowest cost... But even my credit union (which I found out offers gap coverage for vehicles they have loans on) offered it for ~$200.
Bottom line: Don't buy gap coverage from the dealer, period.
Thanks!