C.V. Joint replacement or Entire Axle

skinakedskinaked Member Posts: 1
edited March 2014 in Mazda
Curious if a faulty right front CV joint on a 94 Mazda Protege is grounds for replacing the entire front axle? One mechanic is trying to convince me on this... Am I being scamed?

Comments

  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    you can get remanufactured CV axles (the whole thing) usually cheaper than replacing just the joint, or as some do, repack the (probably) damaged bearings with grease and put a new boot on. I wouldn't pay more than $100 per side - you can usually get them at Pep Boys, Autozone, whatever for that or less.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I have 2 cars were the CV boot has been replaced on one side only. They had just started to crack so replacing the boot and repacking the joint has worked very well. On another car we replaced and repacked the boots on both sides.

    In all cases they said I didn't need to replace the Axle. It has to be more to replace the Axel because the boots then need to be replaced and repacked as part of the repair.

    If your boot has been cracked for a while, and dirt has gotten into it, then it probably should be replaced.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    in that the boot can be replaced when that's all that's wrong. My experience is that people wait until the clicking noise is loud enough to make dogs howl before they get the car into the shop - by then, it's too late to save the CV joint.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It really depends on the car and the mileage. I think the point is well taken that getting a complete rebuilt drive shaft is ultimately cheaper and faster than replacing just one CV joint, but probably replacing one or two boots is cheaper than a rebuilt axle shaft. I'd certainly inspect any CV joint that is just having a boot replacement, and if the CV joint is pushing 80K or more, you might just want to go ahead and do it, presuming you are keeping this car for its natural life.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    My Mechanic, and Quick lube places caught it before any clicking was heard. Every car I have has over 100K miles. So it really depends on what you need.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I agree with the above advice that a replacement axle assembly is advisable if a CV joint may be contaminated or if the old axle has high mileage. But I have found the decision to be even more complex due the likelihood of poor-quality rebuilt axles. I have encountered noisy operation, damaged splines, and leaking boot clamps involving at least two rebuilders. Several axles have been OK, of course. Because of price, a new axle assembly does not usually appear to be an attractive option. Am I alone on this, or do others also find a high reject rate on rebuilt axles?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think the reject rate is related, as you suggest, not to the part or its complexity, but to the integrity of the rebuilder. Same as if you buy a rebuilt alternator from _________for $19.95 or for $125 at Superior Auto Parts.

    Problem with rebuilders is that they often rebuild similar parts from piles of separated parts...in other words, you don't necessarily get your original parts rebuilt. So a piece from one car goes to a piece from another, and that can lead to problems sometimes. And then of course there is the firm's quality control standards, and workers' skill level and training.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Just replaced both axles on my daughters 1990 Prizm for $150 per side parts and labor-- that seemed to be the going rate after getting a number of quotes and not a hell of a lot more than screwing around with the CV joints. Had toyed with the idea of trying to slap one of those split boots on just to see if we could get a few more months out of the axles. I assume these things are just about impossible to get on correctly. Am I right on that?
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I've heard a few unflattering remarks about the split boots. From their looks, I am not going to try them. Perhaps they could be installed as intended, but I don't believe the chances for a leak-proof fit would be good.

    I feel sure you did the right thing, csandste, but I also would like to hear details of some actual experience with the split boots.
  • carguy62carguy62 Member Posts: 545
    I had a split boot put on my car last year. I drive it daily and it has held up well. It was put on by a friend of mine who is a mechanic. He has some trouble fitting it, so he used a temporary fix of a plastic bag. He said I could of probably driven for years this way. That was his opinion, take it as you want.
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