Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Sprinter



  • kenb,

    sounds like either your dealer screwed up or van is screwed up. 2 quarts in 1000 miles in any vehicle after it broken in is ridiulous. 4 quarts in 7000. something is wrong.

    sounds like another cost cutting technique employed by a chrylser dealer by having the lot porter work on the car... sprinter tech must be on vacation again (whose heard that line before??? are there any sprinter tech here in the US or are they mythical creatures like unicorns and leperchauns????)

    if i were in your situation i'd starting barking my way up the DC chain of command until i got both answers and actions. if this happened MBZ dealer i sure the car would get thorough inspection for day while you were given a loaner car. instead the dodge dealer will put his well qualified ear under the hood and listen (with his eyes closed, mind you!!!) while you sit in the lounge for 3 hours only to tell you that they can't find any problems.... because they don't even know where to start looking.

    i wish chrysler would realize that the buyers for this new kind of van are mostly business onwers who are ready to step up to what's percieved as a superior piece of equipment. my experiece has alway led me to believe that you get what you pay for. it would be great with that MBZ price we could get MBZ treatment or at least sprinter tech at the dealer ALL THE TIME!!!

    hope everything works out OK for your van ken. i do beleive that the MBZ diesel is tough enough survive almost anything that the dodge dealer does to it!!!
  • i checked my air filter and did it another way that was not hard. just had to remove window washer container 2 or 3 bolts, pump and hood arm bolt and the top of the airbox opened and filter came out easy. window washer shoul be empty or it makes a mess when you unplug it.
  • Kenb...
    big mistake 0w-40 is for the birds; to begin with it is not a c4+ oil, I know it is MB 229.51 but is to thing for the van. You have to use 15w-40 at list for the first 10k that oil is the honey for this engine; my run with 15w-40 and stay golden brown for at list 8k and then it start to change to black not too black and when i replace it at 10k it is ready to be dump. My engine have never use any oil and it has not give me any problem. I own a Jeep liberty CRD and the 0w-40w oil that jeep recommend almost all owner have rejected it because it is a low class oil ever the engine manufactory recommend for the jeep 10w-40 syn oil.

    GOOD L.
  • I have yet to see a post by nescosmo that does not reference 15-40 oil. If mercedes specs 0-40 synthetic for this motor in this vehicle, then that is what should be used. Personal opinions are fine, but what is gained by repeatedly telling us what oil he uses? It's starting to get irritating; like a car or real estate salesman.
  • I would never try to persuade you to use 15-40 but then it is also on the mercedes specs. You go on and keep using the 0-40 and see what would happen in 2 years or less.
  • Thats an interesting solution. What is your source?

    I'll check out these products in C. R. Laurence. They make a ton of such products.
  • I just wanted to say hi and that as I wait for delivery of my new Sprinter I have had some buyers remorse looking at some of your posts. The saving grace is now I know where to look for help. I have done oil changes in the past on my cars. How difficult is it to do on these critters? I don't like the sound of a 129 plus fees oil change. I was thinking about doing them more often than 10k miles if it wasn't too big of a hassle. I am also concerned with power to climb sizable hills and mountains with a load. I am glad you are out there. Ron
  • Ron,
    The oil change was not difficult... choosing an oil that meets MB/D-C specs is a bit of fun... Auto Zone having the filter in stock is a bonus compared to a year ago (at least here in Oklahoma).

    Paying attention to oil viscosity is still important, but meeting the specs MB 228+, fully synthetic if you use the ASSYST system is most important to the warranty period.

    Using shorter drain intervals is OK if you want to spend the money. It will slightly increase engine life. On a Million Mile engine like the MB-CDI/diesel, this is pretty much moot. Modern engine, oil, filter, etc. just don't require the short oil changes that the same systems used to. A big part of this change is sensors/computer control. Oil is also better and very high injection pressures result in cleaner hotter burn temps. Engine managament and computer modelling helps keep the heat where it belongs, doing its job of moving you down the road.

    Properly deigned equipment is more efficient and this also leads to decreases in bad byproducts... used oil, bad emissions, etc.

    KenB :shades:
  • Thanks Ken for your reply and knowledge. What is your overall opinion of the Sprinter? It seems like they have a very strong following despite certain problems. When I test drove one as soon as I started up a hill it lost power and the "check engine light" came on. I had to limp on back to the dealer who never did give me a reason for the problem.
  • ron52,

    i agree that the 10k mile maint is fairly easy. the dealer charges $550 to do it (Huntington beach dodge, california)it's just different than working on what we're use to here in america but if you can do it on ford or toyota then you'll have no problems. i have 2006 and no special tools are needed to do the 10k mi service. you will need a torx head bit assortment though (common)

    some will say that you need a special tool to remove the cap from the oil filter recepticle but i can remove it with just my hand and strong grip or maybe some channel locks with rag around the top (how my dodge dealer told me to do it)

    also i found to remove the air filter you'll have to remove the turbo heat shield (two nuts, one bolt), clip a couple zip-ties and remove the intake hose. it's easy, just go slow and be smart.

    for the fuel filter... you'll have to break the factory clamps with a pair of dikes or needle nose pliers or ??? (because they're one time use only.. so remember to get a four pack from you auto store before you start) and remove the hoses. at that point, disconnect the electrical connector, loosen the torx head tightening bolt on the side then slide it up and out. remove the dust cap in the middle, top of your new filter and fill it with diesel until it comes out the top. then fill it again until you can see the diesel inside. remove the sensor device from your old unit which should unscrew at first, then remove two torx screws, twist it about 20 degress then pull ir straight out (after seeing this you'll know what i mean). it has o-rings like your oil filter and you should replace em (o rings come with the mopar filter). put it all back together and at that point i put some small rubber vaccuum caps on all of the hose barbs so that when you manuever this thing back in the engine compartment you don't spill diesel evrywhere. then reconnect all the hoses, connectors and securing clamp and you're redy to rock.

    you'll see an inverted (male) torx head harware all over the car that looks like special tool is required but a metric 6 point hex socket is all you'll need to remove it.

    you'll just have to get over the anxiety of working on brand new car. @10k i do my oil & filter, air filter and fuel filter. i buy my parts rom the dealer and it come out $100. synthetic oil is about $60 for 10 quarts. you could save couple bucks and buy parts from the local auto store but they have to order it and they are more likely (in my opinion) to screw up and order the wrong stuff. my dealer said i should replace my AC filter as well but i hardly use AC so phooey on trying to find it.

    also, i'm using mobil 1 0-40W because that's what the dealer said came in the car from factory. no burned oil in 10k miles. i find it hard to beleive that they are putting in the wrong, more expensive, grade of oil from the start...

    using a lightweight, synthetic oil for the break-in period sounds like a smart thing to do... maybe 15-40w after 50-100k miles. japanese cars (the few i've owned) have always put disclaimers in the owners maunals about putting in oil that was to thick. (of course after 10 years, 200k miles and burning a quart every 1000 miles you're on your own) it sure would have been nice if MBZ would have put an oil prressure guage in this thing.

    but honestly... i've known folks who damn near drove their MBZ diesels out of oil on a regular basis and have still put 200k miles on afterwards and still sold the car running great. shoot, you could probably put 10 quart of canola oil in this thing and it'll run. i see a lot of MBZ diesels on the road with 300k+ and i'm sure they can't soley attest that their longevity is due to hyper critical oil choices.

    eventhough the MBZ diesel may go million miles i don't think the body/chassis on one of these vans will make it to 300k without falling apart in real work enviroment. are you really planning to drive you're sprinter 1,000,000 miles? or 500,000 miles? or even 300,000 miles? i'd like to see what one of these looks like with 300k plus on it.

    do we have any fleet techs out there who have stories/records/photos of the life of a US imported sprinter after 300k miles, 500k miles? just for fun, good luck.
  • Hopefully you will have enough buyers remore to get out of the deal.

    The completely redesigned model will be in the USA in 4 months.

    They spent 2 billion on the redesign.

    25000 mile service intervals.

    It is way better.

    They have been on sale in Europe since May.

    Why get the old one?

    You can configure the new one ( if you know German ) here: vans/home/products/nya_transportbilar/New_Sprinter.html

  • does anyone know how much the new 2007 model is gonna cost? imagine there gonna be price spike.
  • Methodvan... As it is the van was not worth it dealer told me that strip will be around 41k personally i will never buy another one, van is ok BUT the dealer just because is made by MB they charging an arm and a leg for service. I ask the other day how much for a brake job and they said $1300.00 for the front and $1300.00 for the back. I ask what type of tranny oil it take and they told me fluid is a secret only MB make it and only dealers can change the oil. I can not ever check the tranny oil level because is lock. What kind of a deal is this?. I think is arm robery.
  • Overall, a very good van platform and drive train. I have only experienced a check engine light apparently associated with a fuel tank sensor that thought the fuel cap was off.

    Your limp home symptoms are sounding consistent with the turbo/intake related problems that have occured for some dirvers... any of the following: intake sensors (temp/air flow/pressure), turbo oulet box cracks/failure, loose hose/clamps, etc.

    I sounds quite likely that the turbo spooled up to pressure and flexxed the output box (causing a leak), a hose/clamp leaked pressure, or the mass/air sensor has a problem and failed to give a proper signal. The service tech could certainly plug into the OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) connector and quickly tell what the computer thinks was wrong. Not EXACTLY what the SALESMAN wants to be doing during a SALE...

    Did you test a passenger model or a cargo/chassis? Passenger model is built in Stuttgardt (Sp?) and shipped. cargo/chassis models are shipped as kits and assembled in the Carolinas... a few more hose/clamp problems have been suspected by some of our Sprinter compadres.

    If you care about rattles, you will have some things to work on every now and then and you may want to add insulation/damping pads to the larger panels.

    If you have specific questions please ask.

    KenB :shades:
  • Thank you for all your responses. You all have been very informative. Time will tell whether I will regret my purchase. Oh well, it is only money :(
  • I finally found somewhere that the MB-tranny fluid is some normal company's (can't remember which, may Shell?) fully synthetic DEXRON-III. If I find the ref again, I will post it.

    The brake job is still a DYI if you are saavy. Change pads, rotors, and (maybe) sensors as a group and still come out WAY ahead of $1300/axle.

    Dealers are currently getting the repuation that leeches, sharks, used car salesmen, and lawyers used to have exclusive territorial rights to... But, they can't all be bad and they should have D/C backing to do better. Otherwise, they are goiong to have a tough time paying for a $2-Billion re-working of this van... They did this partly so that Dodge would not have to re-work the Dodge RamVan models.

    KenB :shades:
  • Although I like my 140SHC, I miss the vesatility of my pickup. D/C has a concept vehicle for Jeep called the Gladiator, which is a diesel pickup. This is a standard pickup design, though.
    I think that using the drivetrain of the sprinter in a crossover van/pickup would be excellent; a nearly cab-over pickup would allow a lot of cargo space in a shorter, easier to park vehicle; and the fuel effeciency of the 5 cyl. motor in a light vehicle would be outstanding. I know that cab & chassis sprinters are available, and adding a utility bed would make it a great pickup type vehicle (there are a few driving around where I live), but I think something designed from the ground up to be a modular utility vehicle would be more efficient.
    If I were to design it: cab-over or transverse mounted engine (short hood), front buckets plus room for bench or two more bucket seats in back, door in back of cab that opens to the bed, removable shell option that converts the open bed into a weather tight cargo or passenger area, interior of vehicle 2 meters wide (to allow a person room to lay down crossways), minimum 8' bed length (for sheet goods like plywood), 4wd or AWD optional, diesel motor and all the ABS, ESP, ASR and all the other safety circuitry.

    Note on the cargo area of the current Sprinter; I happily found that I can haul 16' lengths of moulding inside the 140SHC, even though the ends are up on the dash. 12' boards are not a problem, either, as they can stack up between the front seats, with just enough clearance to not hit the cupholder attachment.
  • i think Dc blew it when then did their marketing reasearch for this van in zillion ways.

    first of all this is a work vehicle, plain and simple. for those folks that have work vehicles for their small businesses they want high quality product for cheap with reasonable maint costs and easy to get parts. not vice-versa. when my dealer wants $500 for a 10k mi service (huntington beach dodge, HB california, "sprinter headquaqrters")which includes 3 hrs labor to change each filter and parts, when i did it myself the FIRST TIME in 40 minutes... something is wrong. $1300 per axle for brakes... guess i'll be doing that myself too. parts? a dodge what???

    i think dodge dealers overlook the importance of sprinter qualified sales staff and tech people because they may only sell a small percentage of sprinters when considering the total volume of sales. and for some reason people are sypathetic over this. well, i'm not... if you cant support you're product then don't F****in' sell it. it's still the most expensive car on the lot with exception of the VIPER. to watch the dealer scrath their head when i bring it in for door rattles, broken seats, etc and then turn around and ask me for the $500 to change the oil and filters is INFURIATING!!!

    i think DC knows about the dealer problems but refuses to address it because it will turn into greater problems with their sales of remaing 2006 models. "maybe if we ignore it it'll go away" it's just like the turbo failure that seems to plague so many sprinters. my dealers service mangr and his tech swear that they'd never heard of such a thing and haven't had single one come back with problems (sprinter HQ). then, i turned to this forums and a startling percentage of folks have had this problem. who should i beleive? recall to costly? maybe most vans will make it to 36k mi before it goes and then we can charge for this inherent repair??? gee, does sounds like we're playing black jack with a dealer whose stacked the deck, here????

    DC has really buried itself with me and that's what i tell everyone who asks me about my van. at least ford, GM or toyota never made me feeled like i was deliberately being screwed.

    DC are YOU listening out there.... here are some keywords...

  • says you can get extended warranties to 100K that include routine service - but I have no idea what they cost. If I get a Sprinter I will try to get that.
    I think part of the problem is that in the USA it is illegal for a manufacturer to own the dealer. In Europe it is not and the manufacturer has better control of service.
    It sounds like it might be the dealer and not the manufacturer who is doing the poor job.
  • This URL may be useful to some of the people with problems. It has detailed information on the warranty and service contract options ( except cost unfortunately ) as well as 800 numbers to directly contact DaimlerChrysler.

    I hope it helps.

  • I don't believe that it is illegal in Oklahoma for the company to own the dealers... Ford tried that, formed the Oklahoma Ford Group (or similar name), and bought out all but one of the Ford dealerships in the Oklahoma City area.

    The short of it is that the backlash was HUGE. There was only one place in the whole area that made their quota after that... Yep!, the locally owned dealership!!!

    They split up the "Group", and the dealerships are all back under individual management (or at least appear to be).

    KenB :shades:
  • That's an old article... the Fred Jones Auto Collection got re-named to something more ambiguous, like OKC Auto Collection and the public caught on that it was big business, anti-haggle, no bargain, and that the local dealerships were all GONE... rejected... neglected... de-selected, etc. People were going to the outlying areas to buy their cars... a bit of rebellion there!!!

    Now all of the dealerships in OKC are separate, have been re-named, most have apparently different owners (most completely different than before the "collection" absorbed them. The Fred Jones mentioned in the article; which was a big old dealership, repair and rebuild facility, and regional Ford parts warehouse, was sold/renamed (Bob Howard Downtown Ford).

    KenB :shades:
    consumers have the power to make change!
  • Hello,
    I have 2004 Sprinter cab and chassis, 2.7L / I5 Mercedes Diesel, we added a stakebed. We have 39,000 miles. Lately the driver has experienced that at 65+ mph the vehicle will loose power and drop to 60 mph and not go any faster. If he stops, turns off the vehicle, restarts it, then everything is normal. :sick: bhmet.
  • bhmet,
    This problem is possibly a computer/sensor problem (needs a technician to diagnose).

    Otherwise, the problem is likely a tire size mis-match. At speeds over a set amount 45-60 MPH (not sure, thought it was 45) the computer can sense the difference in tire rotational speed and decide that instability is about to set in (ASR/ASP/Anti-lock/etc.) and slow the vehicle, and not reset until a complete stop/cycle.

    Below 45, the ASR/ASP works a bit differently and usually won't trip-out solely based on (slightly) different tire speeds unless the difference is more pronounced (spin).

    SO, replaced any tires lately? Rotate tires to keep wear even? Using Spare that hasn't been in the rotation? Got extended warranty or a dealer you can trust to diagnose the problem and not rob you blind?

    KenB :surprise:
  • that is what happen to mine and it was the turbo/intercooler plastic connecter had seperated.
    the dealer said that they had to replace a lot of them that is why they had the part in stock. i think at the same time they richened up the mix because i lost a few miles to the gallon.
  • I'm looking for a used 140 2500. Are there any years I should be avoiding or looking for specifically? It's going to be a work fan used for local driving.

  • I would have to guess that from the posts I have read that you want a 2004 or later. If you are looking seriously, I would look for one that has a good log book kept on it.

    Looking for repairs, MPG (fuel economy), maintenance, etc.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    After my interesting oil change (taking 10 quarts to make full) I have repeatedly checked for low/high, hot, cold, wait for it to drain back into pan, etc. Never over full (max mark), also never low either ;) .

Sign In or Register to comment.