GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

dirkwork · September 2005

Last week Hurricane Rita was predicted to come ashore right at Galveston and run up into Houston. An evacuation was called for in my area south of Houston. After the wife and I ran around like chickens with our heads cut off for a while (what are going to bring? What about the fill-in-blank?) we packed up the van, removed one of the rear seats, loaded my mom our 2 kids some bikes on the back hitch carrier and stuff on the roof rack - we tried putting mom on the rack but she protested too much. We headed out and after 20 miles got north of town and then hit the mother of all traffic jams. This was not just slow traffic, this was turn off the car and walk around for a while everything is stopped traffic jam. The sun was shining and our temps were a humid 97+ degrees, so with the kids and mom in the van, we felt like we had to run the AC, although there was talk of not having any gas to refill. We never did turn off the AC, and idled with it on for hours. Now granted I've done most of the maintenace on my van (I've long said most vehicles turn to POS b/c of accumulated sub-standard repairs), but I was super-impressed at how my old van took this abuse. The temp gauge never budged from its normal spot with the AC on, and between it being fuel efficient and having a large gas tank (extended van), we didn't really have to worry like some people in those monster SUV's and cars. After 24 hours of this abuse, we still were over 1/2 tank. The trip computer said we were averaging 8.5 mph on our trip, which is something I could double on my bicycle without much trouble! The "gallons used" feature on the computer was handy as the gauge is not all that great of way of estimating remaining fuel, and on this trip fuel would be of utmost importance.

Anyway, the rear AC kept mom and kids cooled down, the motor and trans worked very smoothly, the self-leveling suspension kept it from sagging under the heavy load. After we got up to a about Lufkin TX (don't ask how long this took) we found a Walmart that was open and I bought three toys for the van - a 115 volt AC inverter for running my daughter's nebulizer to control her cough, a Sirus sat radio receiver kit and a DVD player with two screens that strap to the headrests for the kids entertainment and our sanity. The '98's did not have a DVD option FYI, but this whole deal was less than $200 and is removeable to work in other cars.

The many devices were powered by the rear and dual front power jacks, and when my daughter was using the DVD I could turn in the SAT radio and listen with headphones plugged into the rear system.

We ended up in what was apparently the last motel room in AR after nearly two days in the van. A hot shower never felt so good in my life, I kept washing to make sure I was getting the sweat and dirt off! The next morning, the storm was predicted to come up there and drop 20"+ of rain and flood out the town, so we vacated to a friend's family in MO. Luckily, there was not any traffic at this point.

On the way home after Rita had taken her northernly jog away from us, I eased the van into a steady 65-70 on the hilly roads and after 200 miles was averaging 27.2 MPG, running the AC and with all 5 of us aboard, a bike rack on the back and duffel bags on the roof! Now granted I'm running a THULE front rack bar and air deflector which I think helps with drag on roof items, but that is amazing milage. We got on some faster roads (75-80 mph) and my wife who is more of a lead foot drove and when we got home we checked the computer said we averaged 25.5 mpg. The van never missed a beat and was abused / driven over 1000 miles on this trip. I am also on about 5k since the last oil change of walmart synthetic and it doesn't even use oil.

While its not perfect, we were happy to have the van to evacuate in.

Dirk in Houston

psimonl · September 2005

Hello,

I have a 2000 Montana and for the first time, I can't reset the "Change engine oil" warning.
I used to do it all the time on first try for the past 3 years of ownership (ie 14 oil changes), but since the last oil change, I can't

Could it be because I waited more than two weeks to do so? Is the van angry at me :confuse: . It only comes on for a minute each time I start the engine, but it annoys me. The van is not supposed to "Talk" to me. Will I have to unplug the battery? Is it going to go berserk if I do so? Please, help me like you do so often!!!

Simon

maytum · September 2005

I have a 2001 Olds Silhouette with a VCR Player. I put a new Battery in it & ever since the VCR Player keeps blowing 5 amp fuses :confuse: . I also put a 7.5 & a 10 amp in as well, but didn't go any higher for fear of burning wires, etc. The VCR worked fine before changing the battery. I know of no other issues. Any Ideas anyone? :confuse:

ronsmith38 · September 2005

Could you in the process of changing the battery have caused a short of some kind? You could retrace the steps you did in this process to see if any short is possible.

nkairns · October 2005

Most of my dash lights in my radio for my 1999 Silhouette are not functioning. The lights on the left of my radio (power, etc...) are working and so is the clock / tuner display. I removed the radio from the dash and took off the face cover for the radio. There is a printed circuit board that appears to be glued on the back of the radio face plate and I can't see anyway to get at the lights to replace them. Besides doing the obvious and purchasing an entirely new face plate, does anyone have an easy and inexpensive fix for this problem?

The radio, tape and CD as well as all the radio control buttons work fine. It's just the lights.

Thanks

nkairns · October 2005

My 1999 Silhouette has developed a clicking or dull thud coming somewhere in the right front wheel area. It's one simple click or thud (very suttle, but it's there). It can be heard mostly when I back up on a hill or turn left from a dead stop. Sometimes it can be heard from a dead stop accelerating straight forward. I've tried tracing the problem myself and so have several mechanics. No one can isolate where the sound is coming from. These are no issues with the suspension, shocks, drivetrain or CV joints that anyone can find. One clue we have found is if someone has their hand on the right front fender while someone else shifts from drive to reverse with the brake applied and under light acceleration, you can slightly hear the sound as well as feel it in the fender. I am totally stumped. It's been like this for almost 6 months but has not gotten any worse.

Anyone have any clues?

cptplt · October 2005

I have a 00 venture, the manual says to depress the pedal slowly x times in however many seconds and it worked that way for the first 4 years, now it needs to be depressed quickly!! GM engineering at its best!!

mitzij · October 2005

This may sound silly, but check your floor mat. I've had customers come in unable to reset their oil change lights because the floor mat gets pushed up against
the accelerator just enough to keep it from going down far enough to reset the light.

psimonl · October 2005

Could it be just that

??? The floor Mat :confuse: Well, I'll try tonight and post the result...

Simon

marty5898 · October 2005

This is simply a complete shot in the dark but here goes... Has anyone looked at the engine mounts? Is it possible that the rubber padding had been damaged and the engine is actually moving causing the metal parts of the mount to hit each other. I had this on another vehicle (a car actually) and the vibration of the engine would travel through the frame because the bushing in the mount was worn. Just an idea.

BTW which side are you hearing it on, your heading says left but your message says right?

offham · October 2005

You already have answers, however I found a sure way to do it. As stated you have to depress the gas pedal three times and if you have mats it could prevent the pedal going all the way down. If you look under the engine you will see a " half moon" type fulcrum which when you press on the gas moves to right.

With the drivers window down and keys in the ignition, turn to where all the dash lights come on and then go and move the fulcrum three times to the right until it meets the stop. This ensures the reset.

nkairns · October 2005

Sorry Marty...the sound is actually in the right front wheel area (or so it sound slike it's coming from this area) as indicated in the text of my note and not the left front wheel as noted in the subject line.

I'll check out the motor mounts. I know it's not the top mount as it sems to be tight and the bushing is in place. How many motor mounts are there under the van?

psimonl · October 2005

Well... It worked... Just have to do it quickly now... Like they say, American engeneering at its best...

Thank you again

Simon

charlesew · October 2005

After reading several posts about problem vehicles, I felt I should throw out my .02 worth.
1. My 1998 Pontiac Transport was a very versatile vehicle. Rode and drove good and would haul an unbelievable amount of stuff. (Short wheelbase version, too)
2. I kept it 153,000 miles.
3. I never had to add oil between 3k to 5k change intervals.
4. It never failed to start, stop, cool, heat, deliver us to our destination.
5. At 120,000 miles I noticed some anti freeze on the engine. Yep, manifold gasket had to be replaced.
6. At 125,000 miles I had to replace the rear hatch pulldown strap, maybe $10.
6. At 148,000 miles I had a check engine light come on and a random misfire was indicated. Yep, head gaskets had to be replaced.
7. Total repair costs for 152,000 miles was about $1500.
Given that I would have preferred not to have those problems, that was the extent of my repairs in 152,000 miles. It's probably good for a whole bunch more.
That doesn't seem exorbitant for almost 8 years of service and that many miles.
Because of that, I'm now driving a 2004 Montana, (Another Shorty), and at 22,900 it seems to be performing just like the old one.
Right now I'm thinking I should move this one on at about 100k and maybe my expenses would be almost $0.
Anyway, just wanted to point out that not all of the owners dislike the vehicle.

Charles

alien · October 2005

Hello all,

Regular reader of the triplets board but I haven't posted for a while. Enjoyed reading Dirk's long post about running from Katrina. Charlesew good to hear you are happy with your van but unfortunately GM vans seem to vary from mostly trouble free to totally junk.
Our 2000 Montana falls somewhere in between I think.
Continued pistonslap even after the coated replacement pistons were installed is annoying as hell. I am still trying to just live with it and move on. At 52K it is again starting to use oil but no use complaining to dealer as GM has ridiculous guidelines for oil usage.
My gas mileage has never exceeded 22 mpg even on road trips, EPA estimate for these vans is 26 mpg. On a vacation trip to Galveston TX last summer running 75mph with AC on and full load 4 adults, two kids and a full trunk we got just under 22 mpg. Considering circumstances it was a fair mileage but not great as reported by some.
More on the down side the other day noticed catalytic converter on our van is cracked by the flange right where it bolts up to the first muffler. Looking at owner's manual it seems cats are warranted up to 7 years so I will try my luck with the dealer.
Airbag light has not come on now for several months, pleasant surprise.
Passenger side headlight fills with water during rain or at car wash. Haven't sprung for a new one yet.
Passenger side air shock is sagging slightly, haven't bothered with repair yet.
Idle is inconsistent at start-up, like idle air motor or something in those lines.
Autozone could not pull up a trouble code.
Van occasionally moves forward on flat carage floor on start-up. Strange but a family member's Buick LeSabre 2005 did the same thing when it was parked in the same spot. Go figure.

We like the fold and tumble 3rd row seats. Quick to change from one to the other.
Gas tank is good size, on our trips when we go in two vans (Grand Voyager) we need to fill up less frequently.
Anyways my wife likes the van and as they say "ain't mama happy, ain't nobody happy".

Alien

hannibal2006 · October 2005

Three years ago we purchased a new Chevy Venture. After 38,000 miles the brakes went without warning. There was no squealing or other whining noises that you would expect when brakes are wearing out. Instead the brakes ground heavily into the rotors causing a lot of damage and giving us a hefty repair bill. The back brake cylinders were also leaking. Calling GM and the dealer hasn't done any good they just said tough its considered wear and tear who cares if the brakes totally failed and you could have been in an accident. Has anyone else had any experience with brakes doing this on a Venture?

Other than a couple of beaters in college I've always purchased GM vehicles. This was the last. Anyone want to buy a used Venture?

Thanks.

dirkdaddy · October 2005

I would put money on the issue being the strut / strut mount / bushings. GM Front Wheel Drive vehicles have had this sort of issue for a while. It really doesn't typically harm anything, but it is noticeable. In negotiating a parking garage maze I can feel a slight resistance at some points of the steering, but its something I don't even feel anymore.

FYI, there was also a steering rack recall on some models.

Dirk

dirkdaddy · October 2005

I have a '98 Olds extended, and that is about the normal life of brakes in urban driving. Its a fairly heavy van with automatic and drum rear brakes, so the front do a LOT of the work. I trashed a set of rotors and pads in less than 18 months, so now I have the guaranteed for life rotors/pads as these vehicles go through them, at least on teh front.

To keep the rears adjusted, use the parking brake, it will cure a sagging pedal in my experience.

recommendation is to check the brakes every 20-25k. The fact you didn't hear the brakes is not really an excuse for a regular maintenance item. Replacing the pads and rotors is not that expensive is it, compared to a replacement vehicle?

Dirk

hannibal2006 · October 2005

The repair bill came to $936 for rotors and pads. The rear brake cylinders were also leaking. I'm not surprised that the brakes were wearing out. I am surprised that I did not get the squealing noise before the brakes ate into the rotors. I've never seen this happen on any other vehicle I've owned. $900 on brakes every couple of years is pretty steep in my opinion.

Thanks

maytum · October 2005

I figured it out....
the battery I put in was of lower cranking amps - it was the only size the store had in stock at that time. since wondering about the VCR issue, my wife had the van not start twice & had to get a jump, both times. so I took the battery out & took it back, then discovered there was a higher cranking amp battery available - this time they had it in stock, so I traded the old one in. The van & VCR now run fine. I am assuming the electronics was saying - 'I need all of the amps to crank over the engine, so I am going to blow the VCR fuse, starting the engine is more important than the VCR" -sound logical?
the VCR & everything else seems to work well...
now that the vacations are over for the year...
any comments anyone?

ronsmith38 · October 2005

Actually, the problem was that the battery was not supplying enough volts. The VCR needs a certain amount of power, essentially Volts times Amps. Since the volts were low, additional current (Amps) was required. The fuse "measures" amps and thus blew.

dirkwork · October 2005

>The repair bill came to $936 for rotors and pads. The rear brake cylinders were also leaking. I'm not surprised that the brakes were wearing out. I am surprised that I did not get the squealing noise before the brakes ate into the rotors. I've never seen this happen on any other vehicle I've owned. $900 on brakes every couple of years is pretty steep in my opinion.
>

Wow, that's incredible amount of cash for a brake job! Good gosh, is that normal? I do my own so I'm not familiar with shop prices, but I can get guaranteed USA made rotors for about $50 each, and the high-end guaranteed for life semi-metalic performace pads are - lets say $30. Rear cylinders require a rear tear-down to replace, but the parts are only going to be probably $50 for both. Even if you replaced both front calipers, parts would only be an additional $100 max.

I know its all labor, but a brake job on this vehicle is no different than about any modern car, it just flat out ain't that involved. If you got new struts with your brakes, maybe I could see the price. I'd think about complaining about price gauging to the owner if you got some quotes from other shops for same thing.

If you live near me, I'll do your next one for that much money! :~)

Dirk

4thstooge · October 2005

HI EVERYONE, I NEED A LITTLE ADVICE.

OUR 97 VENTURE WITH ABOUT 110K MILES IS ONCE AGAIN CHUGGING RUNNING ROUGH AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. IT IS 1 OR MORE FUEL INJECTORS.

I HAVE HAD OUR VAN IN TWICE AND THEY SUPPOSEDLY DID A PRESSURIZED FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING AND A NEW FUEL FILTER, THAT HEALED IT FOR A FEW MONTHS. THEY TOLD ME THOSE PARTICULAR INJECTORS ARE PRONE TO HAVE PROBLEMS AND CLOG EASILY.

I HAVE RUN FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER THRU THE TANK 3 TIMES IN THE LAST FEW WEEKS AND THAT IS NOT GETTIN ER DONE.

MY QUESTION IS:

1. CAN I EASILY TAKE THE INJECTORS OUT AND BENCH CLEAN THEM SOMEHOW SO THEY WILL WORK MUCH BETTER.

2. IF SO CAN SOMEONE EMAIL THE PROCEDURE FOR RELIEVING THE FUEL PRESSURE, AND REMOVING A GIVEN FUEL INJECTOR, AND BENCH CLEANING IT (IF POSSIBLE)? IF NOT I NEED THE PRECEDURE TO REMOVE THEM ANYWAY BECAUSE I WILL LIKELY SEND THEM IN TO A CLEANING SERVICE.

THANKS

4THSTOOGE
secretagent4thstooge@yahoo.com

n7don · October 2005

I bought a set of reconditioned injectors for our 98 Montana from this outfit.
http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm
Approx net cost was $150
You have to take off the upper intake plenum to get to the injectors. If you are a DIYer that would be a good time to replace the thermostat. Much easier to get at with the upper plenum off.

gwwilker · October 2005

Wipers will work at only one speed. When turned off, they will not come back on until the ignition key is turned off and back on. They were working fine until we had unrelated work done on the engine. However, the wipers were disconnected for this procedure. We have sprayed the electrical connection with contact spray unplugging and then plugging again several times. Think this is a little different from other problems I've seen with wipers on the forum. Thanks for any ideas.

dirkwork · October 2005

Dad and I have a neat tool for fuel injector testing. Its a FI testor and what it does is put a nice pressure gauge on the fuel rail port and then a electronic box hooks up to the injector plug. You pressurize the fuel rail by turning on the ignition (but not cranking motor) and letting the electric fuel pump get everything pressurized. Then, you send some pulses to fire the injector and meaure the drop in pressure on the gauge. If an injector is partially clogged it won't release as much fuel, so the pressure will drop less. Baseline all injectors and you will likely see the ones that are bad and you can only replces those. Pretty neat. Usually its the idle that is most difficult for a bad injector, those small pulses are tough for dirty injectors.

Also use good Shell gasoline and you will have less trouble :~)

Dirk

wstrauss1 · October 2005

Have same problem. Body shop did work unrelated to wipers, but apparently temp. disconnected them. Will only work on 'high' now, and body shop isn't helping.... I hope someone has some suggestions for both of us !

charlesew · October 2005

At sometime, my 2004 Montana has evidently been cleaned or treated with a product that left streaks down the Charcoal body cladding from the chemical runoff.
So far, I have tried acid wash, many cleaners, wheel cleaners, abrasive polishes, chemical polishes, the list is quite extensive. I have take it to detail shops and my dealer and the only solution they can come up with is to refinish it. If that truly is the only solution, then I will do that next spring.
But, since some product caused this staining, why can't I use the same product to stain all the cladding evenly? I just want it to be all the same color and I'm not too particular which color that might be.
I will try to post a picture that really makes the streaks stand out. It does not look nearly that bad when you look at the vehicle.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Charles

charlesew · November 2005

Hi:
It's been 5 days and noone has posted a gripe about their Montana. They must either be getting better or everyone just gave up.

Actually, I was posting to be sure the forum hadn't gone dead. 5 days with no posts is not like any other forums I visit.

Charles

Claires · November 2005

Hi, charlesew,

Since everyone here is apparently out admiring their Montanas, you might want to bring your question to the folks in the Paint & Body Maintenance & Repair discussion -- they're likely to have answers for you.

charlesew · November 2005

Thanks for the link.
Seems like a logical move to make.

Charles

noidea · November 2005

My 1997 Transport/Montana 3400 died after 177k miles. I ran across a low miles (30k) engine and trans from a wrecked '98 Venture. Installation went smooth with everything connecting as it should. Now comes the problem...The motor has a dead miss on #4 cylinder and it surges 1,000 rpm up and down when under no load(park)with accelerator down. As far as the miss, it has a hot spark, comp. test was okay, installed new injector, checked injector wiring harness. But, still has miss. As far as the surging...I have no idea. Could the two be an electronics problem???

n7don · November 2005

One of many possibilities is a vacuum leak(s).

dirkwork · November 2005

Have you checked for codes on the computer?

Beyond that, this is port injected engine, and perhaps that cyl is not getting fuel for some reason. The wiring harness for that cyl might have gotten squished during the install.

D

rockfordmax · November 2005

Hi everyone, I'm new, but this is my last resort before the stealership! My mom's 99 Silhouette drivers side taillight bulbs are all ok. They all light up just fine. Except when you press the brake pedal, Only the right one gets brighter. What could be the problem? It sounds like a relay to me, but Ive got no idea with this particular car. Thanks in advance for any help!

noidea · November 2005

I haven't had the computer checked for a code. The check engine light doesn't come on, so I don't know if comp. would show a problem or not. With ignition on, I have power to injector but I was told the computer must send a signal to injector, telling it when to "fire" fuel to cylinder.

blokhed · November 2005

Hello,

I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana - the green with graphics we really like the look and miss it in the new stuff. Gave in to the van thing - thought it was ok to do when child 3 came along (my son!) with all the car seats - geez...

At purchase (65,000 miles), I requested a campaign printout (try it at dealer) and wow - talk about a list! 4 pages long. Many recalls, but the van ran fine and we liked the power passenger door.

Injector in #2 and #5 started to hang - you get a check engine light and P0300 codeset - cheap fix is to use 1/4" extension and bang on base of injector - cleared for months, but finally replaced. I was running salvage yard at time and borrowed set of injectors from smashed Montana, but later found brand new ACCELL set for $120 - all 6 injectors at 15 lbs/hour high performance at Summit Racing - great deal fyi. Dealer cost is $100 per injector!

Anyway, power door stopped opening with remote Tuesday - hard on us when walking daughter 1, 2 and holding 3rd child my son. Arm breaking actually!

Alarm still sounds when door open/not latched and van in gear. Door still opens using handle, but only after sliding for about 1.5 feet open. O/H button and remote do not actuate an open. You can hear first click - probably latch actuator, but no open. P/L also work fine. However, when door is open, both remote and O/H button will fully close and latch door.

Any advice - I signed up after seeing your comments back and forth.

n7don · November 2005

It's likely a dual filament bulb and the brake light filament just burned out. Go on www.sylvania.com and follow the various links to see what bulb fits then go to your favorite auto parts store (or Walmart) for a replacement.

n7don · November 2005

Not sure I can be much help. Our door still works 99% of the time but probably doesn't get the duty-cycle yours gets with the little ones.
I did look at the troubleshooting guide in the service manual and it's more extensive than I could post here however loose wiring seems to be a commom element. Have you cleaned the contact pad on the B-pillar and pins on the door? Also there is mention of a customer satisfaction service bulletin 99016A issued in Aug 2001. Some of the (but not all) symptoms are like you describe. If your 99 has a vin in the range of XD100003 to 167875 it might be affected. Don't know if the dealer would do for free. Also you might try reprogramming the door. Procedure may be in your owner's manual. If not reply back and I'll look it up.
Good info on the injectors too. Do you have the summit or accell part number?

blokhed · November 2005

Well, any info would be great - bought the 99 used and don't have much info. THose injectors are 15 lbs/hr saturated(coil) type - Accel 15065 now about $32 each but a steal compared to "new" at dealer 6 times as much! A little more power too in our 3.4L.

Have always been cleaning pins/pads - CLR breakfree (great for guns US MIL spec now at Walmart believe it or not!) and fine 00 steel wool - keeps door bounce down, but no, something else must have gone - did reset procedure and now door will not even power assist open (you unlatch by hand, then door opens via motor/cable) - only manual for total open- uh oh. VIN is 112629 - so it is there.

blokhed · November 2005

What is 99016A - what is the service routine, do you know? Something with door actuator? I can call my ex-employees at the salvage yard and have them pull a search on this maybe?

n7don · November 2005

If you are a DIYer I found a set of CDs on ebay a yr ago that were used at the dealership level containing the GM service manuals & bulletin for all vehs. from 98 to present. Now dealerships use online. Once in awhile someone is still selling the set for around $50.

The following is the text of the bulletin:
"Customer Satisfaction - Power Sliding Door Operation #99016A - (08/29/2001)
99016A -- Power Sliding Door Operation
Certain 1998-99 U Vans

Equipped with Gen II Power Sliding Door (RPO E58)

THIS BULLETIN REVISES AND SUPPLEMENTS CAMPAIGN BULLETIN 99016 DATED APRIL, 1999. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT SUBGROUPS "A" AND "B" IS INCLUDED AND STEP #12 OF THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IS REVISED."

The symptoms described in the bulletin are:

"The power sliding door almost fully closes then consistently reverses to the full open position (reversal after plunger contact).
The power sliding door will not operate in power mode with any of the switches (console, B-pillar, remote keyless entry fob).
The door will operate properly in the manual mode."

The remedy listed is:

"To prevent the possibility of this condition occurring, dealers are to replace the power sliding door control module, adjust the cable tension, and clean the pad and plunger.............
and it goes on into more details which are too long to post.

dirkdaddy · November 2005

After riding in the rear I found that my '98 Olds rear hatch was rattling like crazy, a squeaking noise. It was shut all the way, but our roads here are ROUGH concrete slab types are not so smooth. I kept noticing it getting worse and worse. Finally, when I got a few minutes free and some good weather I took off the rear hatch plastic panel by removing the hatch handle and using a tool to get the 4 "christmas tree" plastic fasteners to release. FYI, these suckers are the biggest ones I've seen, and my tool was bending before they released, I had to supplement with a crowbar/ large screwdriver. The panel has some other style attachments around the window glass that come loose with a little prying. After I inspected the hatch, initially I didn't see anything wrong, but then I pushed on one of the stereo speakers and it was loose. The dang designers didn't use any fasteners to secure the speakers, they have tabs on the bottoms and a metal clip at the top, which makes for rapid assembly of course, but when the foam that was used as a gasket deteriorated with time it let the speaker move back and forth, and the metal clip would 'squeak' 'squeak' 'squeak'.

The speakers had holes at the top for two screws, but there were no holes in the steel, so I drilled and used some screws to secure the speakers.

No more squeaking noises! I was beginning to think the van was a rattle-trap, but now its quiet again!

I was pretty surprised to see decent quality speakers in the van from GM. They had decent cones, and separate tweaters, not the usual junk I'd seen on production cars before.

I have pictures of the offending speaker mount if anyone cares to see.

Cheers,
Dirk

jeber · December 2005

I've been gone for a while here! Do some occasional lurking, but no posting.

Anyhow, van has been good. 01 silo, 70000+/- miles with no "real" problems. Fuel gauge quit working a year or so ago, that's beyond my shadetree mechanic abilities, so we simply fill when trip meter gets near 400 miles...no big deal...

My other car is (still) a 95 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, which is getting up on 130000 miles - with never a serious issue whatsoever (oh, the nissan eats front tires if you don't have the toe in/alignment done religously--I knew I could think of something!). So my GM product is already not holding a candle to that, but gosh what could, I don't think I could kill the PF if I tried, lol

but you guessed it, now I'm looking for some advice on something a bit more serious, but thankfully this does not seem to be a "strand me in the middle of nowhere in a blizzard" type problem.

The silo's electric cooling fans go constantly (right from cold start/startup and they never stop) and my temp gauge does not work. It does not seem to be the thermostat - that would not make fans come on as they are with cold engine. Heater seems to work about the same as always. So, I'm thinking the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). My Haynes manual has a bunch of eloborate voltage/resistance tests, etc. to test the ECT sensor but because of time factor and my lack of skill in that type of thing, I'm just gonna put in a new sensor, IF:

It's not too high-dollar for the part, AND if people here indicate that looks like a good bet.

If I do it and that isn't the problem, then (if not too expensive for part) well no big deal. Off it goes to a shop, where I'm gonna have fuel gauge fixed, plugs & plug wires done, and the fan/gauge problem all done at once.

Well even with this, I can't complain. Great van. I was talking to a lady at work yesterday who bought an 02 or 03 Expedition about a year ago (40 or 50000 miles, same as my van when I got it), and she's had that thing in to have so many little odds & ends taken care of (along with some type of more major trans issue), I just can't imagine.....I thought Ford trucks were built ford tough and all that, lol but I don't know. It could be that she drives like she's in a stock car race or something, but I digress.

Any advice appreciated!

take care.

Oh, btw if anyone is interested, I put on Goodyear Triple Edge tires a year or so ago and they are highly, highly recommended. Awesome on dry, wet, snow and ice and seem to be wearing well.

J

So, what do you think?

jeber · December 2005

well, I shopped around Checker, NAPA, etc. for the temp sensor, found most were $25 ish but Autozone had it for eight bucks so I'll get it in this evening or tomorrow and I'll try and remember to let the "triplets" board folks know if it fixes it. Could help someone in the future I guess...

J

terrehill · December 2005

I have a 2000 Montana with 74000 miles on it there is an intermittant harsh upshift on all the gears. I bought the van used so I don't know if the tranny was ever serviced. Any thoughts on this? Charles

mick1 · December 2005

Put goodyear assurance comfortread on 03 Olds silh rides more comfortable and quieter than LS's. Hopefully with 80,000 mi treadwear rating they will last longer.

bill221 · December 2005

anyone take the inside trim off a 2002 silhouette or venture, etc? (I think all from 1999 to 2004 are the same) my mirror (pass side) broke and I got another from a salvage yd, need to take off the hard plastic triangle in the front of the door to access the bolts, to do that it looks like I need to pop off the trim, any ideas / hints, thanks for the help!

jeber · December 2005

hi all

sorry I've not updated on my "problem" above...took it to a shop. The ECT sensor I bought new was bad. Penny wise and pound foolish here. I saw a few sensors for approx. $25, and found one for $8 or 9 and put it in. So now I pay a shop a bunch of $ (don't know how much yet) to tell me I got a bad one. So, my amateur mechanic instincts were correct in identifying the problem, but the execution was flawed and now I pay!

In summary, if your elec cooling fan goes on and stays on and your temp gauge on dash quits, at the same time, it's your ECT sensor. A 10 minute repair. But get a good one.

indrgb · December 2005

Yes. Most likely the Pressure Control Solenoid inside the tranny. Do a search on PCS or "hard" or "harsh" shifts. Many have had this problem, including me. Like most things on these vans, it is not cheap. Mine was about $600 at a small town dealer.

GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

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