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Comments
My '93 F-150 4X2 5 Litre (302) has a small hole rusted in the oil pan. I would like to replace it but I had a look under the truck and the motor mounts sit on the cross member ... which is rivited to the frame. I'm wondering if I have to pull the engine to chamge the oil pan ... or can I slip it out below the crank and above the cross member? Any one ever tried to remove the oil pan without removing the engine?
I was looking at the Toyota Tundra, but didn't like Toyota's attitude with regards to discounting off the sticker or building to a customer's wishes.
So....on April 29 I ordered an F150 in Harvest Gold Metallic with a Wedgewood blue lower with the 4.6 V8, automatic transmission, cloth captain's chairs, premium sound with CD, P255 LT tires with aluminum alloty wheels, keyless entry, sliding rear window, AC, cruise, power door locks, windows, mirrors, so and so forth. I already sold my 4 Runner so I will be without a vehicle until my order arrives. As soon as it arrives, it's getting a Leonard 1200 series fibergalss cover to match the body and Line-X will be applied to the bed up to the rails.
I really want to thank you all for your comments. By reading your comments, I felt I made the right decision.
By the way, mine is electrically adjustable.
I had the 97 F150 with the 4.6L, and it was terrific. Lots of power and decent gas mileage. I only got rid of it because my lease was up and I wanted something with more bells and whistles.
I was told by the sales manager at my local dealer, where I ordered my F-150 Lariat, the VIN is assigned the first day they begin building the unit. The way he talked they would be notified. As for delivery, my dealer gets a printout that has the vehicles on order with estimated delivery dates. I assume the factory gives them the date. My salesman has me confused as to whether they get it daily or weekly. I think he hasn't been totally up front with me. Right now my truck is expected to be started 10 May and shipped the week of May 24. Also, check to see if there's a holdup on parts such as a radio not in stock. Your sales manager should be able to get the information. I give them a couple of more weeks though. Ford will not start on your truck unless everything is in stock. I understand they may still be out of stock on am-fm radios with the single cd player as the case with mine. Of course mine had been on order for about 7 weeks when I found out about the radio snafu. The sales manager put an expedite code against mine so your approximate delivery date may be longer than my 2 weeks after completion. It took about 2 1/2 to 3 weeks to get mine started (hopefully) after I made changes. Mine being built in Norfolk, Va. As the Ford dealer says everything is "estimated". Hope you don't have to wait near as long as I've waited already.
and a 5 speed. Anyone have some real numbers on mileage. Suggestions on the best ratio for the rear axle. I will not be doing alot of towing or carrying weight. Thanks, Pete
At first I HATED the seats, wanted to rip them out, but they seem to have grown on me with time, and they're acceptable now.
As for power with the 4.6 V-8, I tow a 2,000 lb trailer daily, and it does fine. In fact, it seems more responsive than my '97 Dodge Ram with the 5.9 V-8, probably because the STX package comes with a lower gearing on the rear end. Without the trailer, it flies.
As for the dealers, I had great experiences buying and servicing it. I got a simple $200 over invoice offer from the dealer, with no haggling, and the window repair was done with no problems, at another(closer) dealer.
Now, about my Dodge.....LOL.....unless you value macho image more than your money and sanity, avoid Dodge products. "Looks are skin deep", the guys at a local garage joked to my wife when they talk about Rams(they were just changing the oil)
I am currently driving a '97 F-150, dark toreador red, flareside, 4x2, XLT, 4.6L Auto. I REALLY enjoyed driving this truck, but the three year lease is up at the end of June. I considered re-leasing it, but I am going to move from LA to Milwaukee soon, and wanted the added security of a 4x4. So, last week, I placed an order for '99 F-150, dark toreador red, flareside, 4x4 Offroad, Trailer Towing Package, XLT, 5.4L Auto, single CD, bedliner, cab steps. I am not sure when it comes in, but I am really looking forward to getting it.
I am going to do another three-year lease with this one, and if I like it as much as I like the one I have now, I will probably buy it when the lease is over. I can attest that it really pays to do the homework when getting a new truck. I walked in, a copy of Edmunds' price guide in hand, knowing exactly what I wanted, and about fifteen minutes later, we agreed at $100 over invoice. Very good deal IMO. I didn't do the homework when I got the '97, and w/o the 4x4, the offroad package, the towing package, the CD player, the cab steps, the bedliner, or the 5.4L engine, I was paying more than I will when the new one comes in. Do the homework. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help!
Scott
First, the seal on the differential went. The local Ford dealer fixed it, but I was at 38k miles and so I paid $650 and supposedly, Ford paid the rest--and the dealer didn't have the parts and had my truck for three days.
Then, last week, as I pulled into my friend's driveway, I heard a thump and found that the spare tire had fallen off--the cable mechanism had just worn through.
As any of this happened to any other F-150 owners?
sites I can find. Seem to have focused in on
XLT; V 6; supercab; automatic -- dealer told me
I should order 3.55 axle. (I live in Ozarks and
we have a lot of hills and curves). I don't
tow anything but since discount pkg. includes
255 tires with 3.55 axle. Seemed Ok. then
he is having trouble finding one with locator
system -- at least anywhere close.
Question -- should I order V 6 or V 8
Trying to hold cost down as already seems too
high. Don't really understand the differences
between axles and didn't know if I should change search criteria.
Want good performance and gas mileage but also interested in resale vale. Do haul 1/2 ton
of wood pellets 3 -4 times a year but my
'91 Nissan handles that.
2nd question -- has anyone had experience
with anything like projected strike like that
expected from truck drivers delivering new cars.
If strike lasts (even starts) will Ford probably
have to add incentives to move the remaining
99's before new 2000's come out??
Even if find truck am always hoping to find
best deal with both price and financing.
Any help will be appreciated.
I've towed 2 tons with it with relative ease, but not for a long distance. However, I have towed 1 ton on a 500-mile round trip a few times, and that presented no problems either. I also opened it up while on a cross-country trip (NJ to AZ), and it went up to 100mph. Fuel consumption is 15-16 for local driving and 20-21 on trips. With the 3.55 axle, yours will be a little less, and I presume top speed will be also. One advantage of getting the 3.55 however, is that you can get the limited-slip differential which is not available with the 3.08. I'd strongly recommend it, especially in the Ozarks.
More power would be nice, but I don't regret getting the V6. It has 205HP, so it's not really a slouch. BTW, like you, I had a Nissan before this, but I wouldn't buy another because I consider it's engine to be puny. If you didn't complain about your Nissan's power, I think the 4.2L V6 in the F150 will be more than adequate for you.
I hope you haven't made a big mistake yet!
1st, I own a 27' camper(listed at about 6200 lbs) when you load it(gear and hitches)it weighs 7300lbs. They don't tell you, but your camper weights don't even include the weight of your a/c unit!!
2nd I own a 92,F150,4x4,K/C,5.8L,3.55 gears(200hp,300lb/ft) modified w/special filter,headers,performance exhaust & ignition. This was done out of necessity(now its about 250hp,350lb/ft).
Whatever the book tells you you can tow, subtract about 2500 to 3000 lbs and you'll be better off. Unless you like being the passed buy somebodies grandpa driving home from church Wednesday evening. I know this because I have been pulling this set-up for about 6 years. I'm on this site getting info for my new truck 3/4 ton,V-10. I'm still not happy with the power or lack thereof.
I went to library this morning but the Chiltons
manual didn't provide any information on how to do it. From the sound I hear when tugging on the axle it seems I need to remove the diferrential cover and disconnect something inside. It Doesn't seem complicated unless I'm missing something. Can I rent the tools I'll need to pull the bearings?
Thanks,
mister rrr
Can anyone talk me out of this by giving good advice from one's experiences? Or I'm I on the right track.
Sorry, can't talk you out of it. I had a 97 F-150 and loved it. I only traded it because my lease was up. And you're right - more cargo room and less mess potention than a SUV, for less money. Keep us informed on your decision.
I had a garage change one rear bearing and seal on a 1983 ranger in 1988. They charged about $70.
Bob
As for the people looking at the v-6 vs. the v-8 engine.....the v-6 seems to be adequate for light duty, but keep in mind that on resale you will get every dime you paid for the v-8 back, and maybe more. V-6 fullsized trucks aren't in high demand in the used market, and many potential buyers will cross yours off because it doesn't have a v-8, while almost nobody wouldn't buy a good truck because it's engine was "too powerful". Also, all things equal, the v-6 will "work harder" to do its job over the years, and will possibly wear out sooner. Gas mileage is virtually identical for the two engines. I have also read a few negative posts about the v-6 reliablity on the web, but nothing bad about the 4.6 v-8. For $650, I'd go with the v-8.
From people I have talked to, the small V8 gets about the same mileage or maybe better. My advice? Don't dare even consider a V6 unless you can save A LOT of money up front!
Also, I have noticed that most F-150 owners (late models) in my area do not install cab lights on the roof which I always liked on older model trucks. Does anyone have an opinion as to how they would look? Are the Ford lights any good?
I would have loved to buy a 5.4 but am scared silly of the piston slap problem--will this be completely resolved for 2000?
Also, does anyone think the ride of a 250 is too harsh for a generl purpose truck (seldom used for heavy payload)? There are a few 99's still around in my area.
Thanks in advance for your help. I have enjoyed reading your comments--I spent the last two nights reading every last one of them in preparation for buying my new truck.
Staush in CT
I read in one of the auto pricing pages that the 2000 will also have 17" tires. I am also wondering if i should make a deal on a 99 or wait till the 2000 come out.I have 2 months left on my Explorer lease and am going back to a truck.Does anyone know of any other changes for the f150 for 2000.Edmunds seem to think they need to bump up the horsepower to compete with GM .
Thanks Bill
I have a 99 150 supercab 4x4 (shift on fly) w/ 5.4 engine and 3.55 locking diff. rear end. Just over 10,000 miles now.
It has been a great truck. Only problem is the drivers door electric window is sluggish when cold. I have been waiting for any more warranty items to show up before taking it in, but none have.
Strong runniing power plant. I tow a 18' 3,000 #
travel trailer with ease. Also haul a cord of firewood time to time.
Milage is as advertised, 13/16, and that is just about what I get.
Handles great and is a joy to drive. Higher sitting position than Chev.
No "piston slap" prob that I heard of in a few 1997-1998's.
Interior is inteligently laid out. Everything real easy to get to.
Mine has drum rear brakes, but I understand Ford went to 4 whl discs in latter 99. Seems to stop good with minimal brake pressue. Std 4 whl anti-locks.
I too got lots of good info on the forums before buying. I paid $500 over invoice and ordered in July. Got the truck in Sept, so the yr 2000 trucks should be starting production in a few weeks. The 99 was virtually the same price as the 1998.
Bottom line - if I were going to get a new truck from any of the makers, I would get the same one I ordered!
I have been thinking about 17" tires--could anyone comment on the mileage they're getting with these? what rearend gear ratio do you have?
Should I expect them to be less fuel effiicent than 16" wheels. I always thought a larger wheel would give better mileage because it travels further when making on complete revolution. Is that nonsense? I concede it would take more energy to turn a larger, heavier tire/wheel.
As far as fuel economy goes I am getting 16 to 18 on the highway. Actually, compared to the 4.6L 4x4 I just traded in I think I am getting as good If not better fuel economy. I do believe that I have 3.53 gears.
What are you going to do about tires on your lightning in the Boston winter. You ll need t go skinnier to be able to move in the snow and ice. What kind of gas mileage are you getting?
the gas has been pretty good it just turned 1200 miles and I've got 3/4 tank on my 3rd fill up I've been putting in sunoco ultra 94 octane its a 1.26 a gallon up in boston.I also just put a sportmaster vynal hinge mount tonneau cover with a bedliner that shopuld help with the gas milage on the highway. How is the white I'haven't seen one yet I also heard they might have a run of yellow towards the end of the year.
Paul
e-mail privately if you want to
Scotty
Ive been shopping the f150 with the 4.6l,just decided to wait till the 2000's come out hear they will add 20 hp to the 4.6l. What mileage did you get with your 4.6 2 wheel drive. Thanks Bill