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Comments
Don't know about the rotors, though. Is their surface smooth? Do you feel any vibrations in hard braking? If it's smooth in feel and operation, I'd skip the resurfacing.
Otherwise, ask if they have an on-car lathe, those are more accurate.
-juice
-juice
Pigeons, America's urban pheasant! lol
thanks in advance mike k
By removing the minimum amt required to achieve reasonable flatness, you avoid removing the 'hardened' outer layer that provides the longevity in OEM rotors. This method will require that the pad wear a bit faster to fit the rotor, but I think gives the most cost effective and painless brake job.
Mike: This came up during the summer and was a source of some confusion. I think we all settled on it being the 17mm drain plug crush washer (even though it seems to fit the hollow spot on the OEM spin-on filter).
Steve
My wife needed new front pads on her OB at 60K. I believe the rotors were replaced before that. OTOH, the pads on my OBS needed to be replaced at around 40K IIRC. Just don't do like I did and go to Meineke. Oy vey!
-Dennis
We just had the alternator go out on our '95 Sentra (88k mi) - $320 remanned + installation. Installation involves draining the radiator and removing the lower hose 'cause it's in the way.
Sigh. I remember when you could get a $20 voltage regulator and be up and running in 20 minutes. Must be dating myself....
This car has gotten expensive in the last 2 years: brakes, battery, starter motor, left front axle, brakes again (rotors this time), tires, right front axle, alternator. It has a slow leaks at the front crank seal, the left axle seal and the steering pump reservoir, but I'm not fixing them yet 'cause I don't have any fluids on the floor.
Here's hoping the Subie does better in years 6-7.
-brianV
-Colin
-juice
-juice
-Frank P.
Ed
A buddy of mine put on 60K on his Forester in just 2 years! :-O
Ken
So at first I was accumulating a lot of miles, but then the pace slowed. Still, in the last year or so my Forester took 9k miles, the Miata, about 6k.
Roadsters are great for quick errands and sunny days, but the Subie pays the bills.
-juice
On a cold morning running 5w-30 - car was in the garage, outside temp ~20, the engine temp gauge stabilized after about 7 miles at ~50 mph in light city traffic. At this time, the oil temp gauge was just coming off of the bottom peg (50 C = 122 F). 7 miles later, the oil temp gauge stabilized at ~70 C (=158 F). I normally expect a little more - closer to 80 C (= 176 F), but my commute is short. It seemed to be pretty stable at that temp.
'01 Forester S with performance gauge pack
-brianV
-juice
A recent dealer brochure contained a blurb about current brake pads not lasting as long as in the past due to changings in the compound. Possibly something about eliminating asbestos. Has anyone else seen this?
Jim
I have a 2002 Outback Sport and it has about 25,000 miles on it. Recently we have noticed a burnt rubber smell coming from the car after we are through driving and we get out of the car. The has cropped up very recently. I have looked under the hood to see if any rubber hoses are hitting the engine but I cannot pin down where the smell is coming from. Any suggestions out there on what to look for, etc?
thanks
Do you notice any other symptoms besides the smell? Does the smell get worse under certain conditions (i.e. weather, speed, etc)?
Or it could just be the undercoating burning off the exhaust. That would have a nice rotten egg aroma to it.
-juice
60k miles from a set of pads is not bad at all.
-juice
IdahoDoug
If nothing surfaces, I'd be concerned about the engine's internal timing belt. If you're so inclined, pop off one of the easiest covers and visually inspect the cover's inner surface for black rubber dust, the belt for damage, etc.
IdahoDoug
With a manual the clutch absorbs the slip.
-juice
1) On my commute, I may not quite get the engine fully warmed up. I will continue with a 3month / 3000 mile oil change regimen.
2) Bearing in mind that my car was not stone cold this morning either, if it had been it's prolly 15 minutes of easy driving at least before it's warm, or, say, up to 10-12 minutes after the engine gauge says you're all clear. Park it and go in for dinner and a movie or something on a cold night, and you're looking at quite a while before oil hits normal operating temps on the way home.
-brianV
juice, I'm very pleased with getting ~60k on my front pads, I had expected to replace them earlier. 8~)
Jim
I'm still on my original pads at 76K. But then again 90% of my driving is highway and my Forester has a manual tranny. I'm probably going to replace them soon. I do have a touch of rotor warpage so I'm wondering if I should:
A) Replace just the pads and fuggedaboutit
Machine the rotors but risk increased warpage later
C) Replace both pads and rotors and take a big chunk out of my wallet
Any advice?
Ken
You'll trade in for a turbo something or other by the time you'd need any more brake work. :-)
-juice
Ken
I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this with their XS, and/or has any idea as to the cause and how to fix it.
The noise seems to have gotten worse in the four months that we've had the XS. It comes from around the area where the tweeter is and first becomes noticeable at around 25 mph. It is not noticeable on the passenger side. It almost sounds as though the window is open a crack, but there is no noticeable draft. I thought that it might be the side mirror, and folded the mirror in but the noise is still there. Besides, if it were the mirror, I'd think that the noise would be apparent on both sides.
I can't find any visible difference in trim or anything else on the two sides of the car, so I'm baffled.
Any ideas?
Check to see if all the seals and gaskets are intact. Open the door and look along the frame where the window would push up against. Also check to make sure the rubber gasket where the side mirror mounts to the window is okay. A small tear would allow air in causing the noise. Another thing to check is to see if your window is up all the way by opening the door and raising the windows. Sometimes tight seals can prevent the windows from rolling all the way up.
Ken
Steve
In the lube system, the pan acts like both a reservoir and supplemental cooler. The pump picks up oil from the pan and sends it thru the block to the filter, then up to bearing surfaces thru small passageways. These very small quantities rise in temperature rapidly along the way. I am sure that the point-of-use oil is well above that of the bulk in the pan.
Placing an oil temp sensor at the very lowest point in the bulk storage region is akin to placing the water temp sensor in the radiator (rather than block). Eventually it will read the right temperature, but the sensing action will be delayed.
I don't mean to throw stones, but I suspect that the lubrication system is in much better shape than your gauge pack is telling you.
Steve
On the other hand, it's only a 4 quart system, and the amount of oil in the pan is relatively small, so it shouldn't reflect too large a delay.
My interest was more in the size of the delay between the engine temp and oil temp displays. Some delay might be expected, sure.
I actually got it with a mind to monitor the high side while towing in summer. A 4 quart system is more prone to overheating for the same reasons.
Cheers
-brianV
Ken
Does anyone know how to deal with this?
My shop vac is working overtime.
Thank you,
liamzdad@yahoo.com
Any ideas on possible repair? The gouge is about 1.5 inches long and 3/8 inches wide, vertical. And yes, it does extend over one of the defroster lines.
Steve
IdahoDoug
I really appreciate it.
Its rain water that is flooding the cabin.
This is happening overnight while the Outback is
parked outside and it has rained the night before.
The water is coming thru the air vents front and rear on the drivers side only.
I will attempt to run a thin wire thru the top, outside air vent and gently try and dislodge any debris.
I love this car. Besides warped brake rotors, have not had a thing go wrong with it. It only has 75,000 miles.
Thank you again.
I have a 2003 X 5spd and it also had the same problem. I would hear it at highway speeds (70+) and as you found it quite annoying. To fix it, I would push pretty hard against the closed window with my left elbow till the sound increased and then slowly release. This movement most likely re-sealed the window because afterward, the window was silent. I would do this each time I opened/closed the door.
I took it to my dealer and told him about the problem and how I solved it (just as above.) Even though I found no rips, tears or obvious misalignment of the seals, they "replaced the seals and adjusted the window." Now the noise is gone.
Tint Scratch - Bummer. No good fix that I can think of and removing that rear film is tricky. You might check here for ideas:
http://www.tintdude.com/
bit
The quick and dirty fix is to use a grease pencil and fill in the scratch. This technique might not work if your tint is light or the scratch too big.
Other than that, I'd take it to a tint shop to see what they can salvage. I'm going to guess that they could cut out a strip and replace it, but it would be difficult to get the edges to line up correctly.
Ken