Dave: I was gonna say, maybe because your Subie was last seen upside down?!
Ditto on the lower temp windshield cleaners. The blue stuff is rated to -20, supposedly, I've seen stuff rated for 20 degrees cooler, that might clear up any freezing once it's cycled through.
RainX makes a low temp washer fluid (pink/orange color) rated to -40 deg. I think it also has a small amount of RainX in it. I see it for about $3 a gallon at my local auto parts store.
Hello - For the third time, I took my Subaru Forester '01 S+ in today because of serious hesitation problems on acceleration. Mostly, when I start the car in the morning, the car chokes up and will not start up. When it does start, I let it warm up for a couple of minutes and attempt to pull out of the parking space and it lurches and occasionally shuts down.
I was told at the Subaru dealership today that this hesitation on cold startup is a known issue by Subaru and that they are working on a fix. I have two questions: Am I being lied to and if not, does anyone know when this problem will be addressed.
Well I guess I obsessed for nothing, had the re prgramming done today and the Titan is running fine, no noticable difference from the way he was running before.
Thanks. They said it's going to be a while, so do you have any suggestions on how I can find out any more information, such as an estimated time when they will have a fix? Also, do you know if Subaru typically contacts people or will I have to continue to call the dealer for updates. I was told that they could not call everyone with the issue and that it was up to Subaru to issue a recall.
As to your question whether I would prefer that the dealership had told me that they'd do nothing at all...of course not. However, I post to a message boards like this, so I can learn from other Subaru owners and not have to rely solely on what I am told by the dealership. The dealership has been less than forthcoming on one occasion.
Anyone ever had this problem? Our 00 Outback occasionally hesitates when you turn the wheel and move forward or back. It happens both when the engine is cold and hot. It feels like the engine is bogging down. You give it gas and nothing happens...then it lurches forward and accelerates normally. It only happens right after starting the car. Never after the first turn and it does not do it all the time.
I have 4 months old 2003 Forester XS with only 3,300 miles on it. And guess what, today while driving on a highway at 35 MPH I noticed that my fuel level needle droped from almost full tank to empty. After that low-fuel light came on and of course right after that "Check engine" light came on as well. I decided to bring the car to the dealership for checkup. And on the way there (about 5 miles) fuel needle was jumping up and down from full to empty. The service department found a faulty fuel pump and ordered to replace it. But because this is a 2003 car, it will take unknown amount of time (per dealer, it could take from 2 to 5 days) to deliver the part. I just could not believe it that a car that is "Made in Japan" will have such severe problem. So for now, I am out of the car and don't really know should I file for the "lemon" claim with SoA or just sell the car. I would hate to stick to this car if a fuel pump problem is just a tip of the mechanical problem's iceberg. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. Leo
Sorry to hear about your problems. I can understand the distress over having a problem so early on, but a faulty fuel pump is hardly something to evoke the Lemon Law on. Actually, I don't know what state you're in, but you've got to have way more problems to qualify.
I'd say relax, let the dealers do their work and keep your case well documented with Subaru.
and the fact that the 2003 is very much an evolutionary model, I would say it is highly unlikely a systemic problem with this model. Most likely you just got the 1 in a 100,000 bad fuel pump.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Your belt might be too tight. If it is when the PS pump tries to pump harder it is causing binding with the engine. Make sure there is enough deflection on the belts.
Yours is the first time I've heard this so my guess is that your dealer is BSing you. I doubt subaru is working on a problem that isn't a problem. My guess is that your TPS sensor is bad or your checkvalve in the fuel line isn't working properly. Both could cause hesitation when first starting.
IIRC, the cheap 'blue stuff' uses methanol (methyl alcohol) to give the advertised -20' F rating. Now as methanol evaporates faster than water, guess what happens to that temp rating as it sits in your reservoir (with its vented cap) for a while? That's why it never seems to function as it should when it hits the windshield.
Prestone and others sell a clear and a tan concoction at a premium price that may deliver better performance. My only concern is that one mix I looked at used ethylene glycol (the basis of radiator antifreeze) to achieve this. It felt tacky to me - will it leave a residue behind that promotes streaking? Also, isn't it bad for body paint?
Steve, I've used the Prestone Windshield Melt (clear additive) on my OBS for a couple of winters and didn't notice any problems with paint.
I only use 1/4 to 1/2 bottle to each tank though because it smells so strong. Also, make sure your nozzles are pointed directly to the windshield and no overspray is going onto the car itself.
To qualify for a lemon, a car has to have the same part fail 3 times. The exception is the brakes - one failure is enough.
Did they offer you a loaner car, at least? If not, I would call 800-SUBARU3 and demand one, since your car is essentially brand-new.
Now here's the good news: this is the first fuel pump failure I've heard of, so the replacement should be fine, and I doubt you'll have the same problem again.
My '91 Escort GT has a fuel guage with a mind of its own, it actually never was cured. The car was totalled in '98.
Jon: there is an OnStar topic, FWIW. I haven't heard of any Subie owners using it yet, though. If you have a cell phone, you have 3/36 free roadside assistance.
I'm sorry to hear about the problems you have had. If you get a chance, please send an e-mail via Subaru.com or call 1-800-SUBARU3. They will track and report on the failures. If you need a rental, they can help with that. Both are very unusual so it's good of you to let us know.
It's funny that around the Bay Area, you can't even find the stuff that's supposed to be good way below freezing. I always like to have that stuff for when I go snowboarding and end up looking all over town for it.
Patti, I did send e-mail to Subaru regarding this problem. About a rental car, I got one, but it is not what I need in my daily life. I need SUV to carry big boxes, very uncomfortable in a sedan. Plus service department told me that a loaner will be in my posesion only for 3 days. Whenever, it may take longer for part to be delivered. So I would have to cover rental expenses out of my pocket if the car will not be fixed within 3 days. I really enjoy my Subaru and will be heart broken if I would have to get rid of it.
Think about this - the BMW X5 has had 14 recalls already, that's not a typo - fourteen. I'm sure BMW provides a loaner car, but probably a 3-series, not the hot selling X5.
So you're being treated as well as luxury car buyers are, except you've only had to go in once, not 14 times.
You should be hearing from someone soon. For what it's worth to you or anyone visiting here - if your vehicle is being repaired under the 3/36, alternate transportation is covered for as long as the car is not driveable. I think it's in the Owners Manual or Warranty and Service booklet (I don't have one at home with me).
Leo - I did see your e-mail and I sent a note to someone to check it out quickly. I'm sure you will be satisfied with the resolution.
I've noticed that my sub doesn't warm up very fast, when told about this to the dealer they said that it's normal for Sub to warm up slower than other cars. Is that the case?
I've heard the opposite -- that our boxer engines warm up relatively quickly. That was from a Subaru District Technical Manager, too. Sounds like the dealer was just giving you some hot air (pun intended).
I noticed that my Subaru warms up even faster (it is outside) than my 8 cylinder Firebird that is in the garage. I also spend a lot of time in Vermont skiing and the warm up is pretty fast even bellow 0 (yest that is bellow zero Farenheit) temperatures. Maybe it is your antifreeze mix?
Warm-up is a two fold issue - when the engine comes up to temperature, and when that warm water makes it to your heater core to warm the cabin.
I would think the layout of the boxer engine would promote heat transfer throughout the crankcase and lower skirt very efficiently as the combustion chambers are at opposite ends, and the block itself is short (compared to an in-line 4). But if the thermostat does not open, water does not make it to the radiator and beyond. And depending on the design and bypass hosing, water may not be pumped efficiently to the heater core either unless full circulation is achieved (ie t-stat open at least one cycle).
Then there is the issues of the valve properly opening to let hot water make it to the heater core. Plus there are a set of vacuum/cable/motor driven doors on the heater core box that have to actuate properly to let fan driven air move thru the core. It is not a simple system!!
I prefer perforated leather over non-perforated, it breathes better. My Miata's leather isn't, and it gets pretty sticky on a hot day. And don't suggest I put the top up, that's sacreligious. I leave it down even when I need A/C.
What I ment by warm up was the time when the temperature guage goes from cold to normal operating. I warm up my car for about a minute and then drive it. It takes another 3-4 minutes of driving for it to reach normal operating temperature.
if you run the heater, especially at high fan speeds, before the engine is warm you're removing heat from the coolant. i.e., making the engine take longer to warm up.
not coincidentally, if you ever have a car that's overheating always crank the heat full blast no matter the weather to try and get the water temp down.
Comments
Crank up the tunes, bud! Your hearing is too sensitive. ;-)
Hmm, higher altitude, less dense air, the engine's making less power, and working harder to get the same amount of work done.
-juice
Ditto on the lower temp windshield cleaners. The blue stuff is rated to -20, supposedly, I've seen stuff rated for 20 degrees cooler, that might clear up any freezing once it's cycled through.
-juice
I was told at the Subaru dealership today that this hesitation on cold startup is a known issue by Subaru and that they are working on a fix. I have two questions: Am I being lied to and if not, does anyone know when this problem will be addressed.
Thanks.
Would you rather they told you they'd do nothing about it at all?
My Mustang had a pretty bad hesitation, worse if I suddenly floored it. Easing into the throttle worked better.
That might help until the dealer gets a TSB from Subaru telling them what their fix is.
-juice
I'd contact SOA and confirm that this really is a problem they're working on, or perhaps check with another dealer if one's nearby.
To me, this is a totally unacceptable situation. Hope it gets resolved!
Jim
Cheers Pat.
As to your question whether I would prefer that the dealership had told me that they'd do nothing at all...of course not. However, I post to a message boards like this, so I can learn from other Subaru owners and not have to rely solely on what I am told by the dealership. The dealership has been less than forthcoming on one occasion.
Sorry to hear about your problems. I can understand the distress over having a problem so early on, but a faulty fuel pump is hardly something to evoke the Lemon Law on. Actually, I don't know what state you're in, but you've got to have way more problems to qualify.
I'd say relax, let the dealers do their work and keep your case well documented with Subaru.
Ken
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Back to the dealer..
-mike
-mike
Prestone and others sell a clear and a tan concoction at a premium price that may deliver better performance. My only concern is that one mix I looked at used ethylene glycol (the basis of radiator antifreeze) to achieve this. It felt tacky to me - will it leave a residue behind that promotes streaking? Also, isn't it bad for body paint?
Steve
I only use 1/4 to 1/2 bottle to each tank though because it smells so strong. Also, make sure your nozzles are pointed directly to the windshield and no overspray is going onto the car itself.
-dennis
So that's why the blue stuff freezes up on the windshield even at +30 degrees F.
-juice
To qualify for a lemon, a car has to have the same part fail 3 times. The exception is the brakes - one failure is enough.
Did they offer you a loaner car, at least? If not, I would call 800-SUBARU3 and demand one, since your car is essentially brand-new.
Now here's the good news: this is the first fuel pump failure I've heard of, so the replacement should be fine, and I doubt you'll have the same problem again.
My '91 Escort GT has a fuel guage with a mind of its own, it actually never was cured. The car was totalled in '98.
Jon: there is an OnStar topic, FWIW. I haven't heard of any Subie owners using it yet, though. If you have a cell phone, you have 3/36 free roadside assistance.
-juice
Once again, I'm sorry.
Patti
Ken
-juice
Patti,
I did send e-mail to Subaru regarding this problem.
About a rental car, I got one, but it is not what I need in my daily life. I need SUV to carry big boxes, very uncomfortable in a sedan. Plus service department told me that a loaner will be in my posesion only for 3 days. Whenever, it may take longer for part to be delivered. So I would have to cover rental expenses out of my pocket if the car will not be fixed within 3 days. I really enjoy my Subaru and will be heart broken if I would have to get rid of it.
Think of it as short-term. I would definitely push to keep the loaner as long as you need it, even if you have to call 800-SUBARU3 for help.
Tell the dealer that if they need their car back, they'd better overnight the parts!
-juice
So you're being treated as well as luxury car buyers are, except you've only had to go in once, not 14 times.
-juice
Leo - I did see your e-mail and I sent a note to someone to check it out quickly. I'm sure you will be satisfied with the resolution.
Patti
Thanks Patti.
-juice
-juice
Ken
Ken
thanks
mike k
-Colin
I will do as she requested r/e the OnStar problem.
Thanks for the attention.
Per the OnStar advisor: ESN not populating; not pulling from vehicle.
Might there be a issue with the heater switch not opening all the way?
Jim
-mike
I would think the layout of the boxer engine would promote heat transfer throughout the crankcase and lower skirt very efficiently as the combustion chambers are at opposite ends, and the block itself is short (compared to an in-line 4). But if the thermostat does not open, water does not make it to the radiator and beyond. And depending on the design and bypass hosing, water may not be pumped efficiently to the heater core either unless full circulation is achieved (ie t-stat open at least one cycle).
Then there is the issues of the valve properly opening to let hot water make it to the heater core. Plus there are a set of vacuum/cable/motor driven doors on the heater core box that have to actuate properly to let fan driven air move thru the core. It is not a simple system!!
Steve
I prefer perforated leather over non-perforated, it breathes better. My Miata's leather isn't, and it gets pretty sticky on a hot day. And don't suggest I put the top up, that's sacreligious. I leave it down even when I need A/C.
-juice
-juice
Yes, I'm back.
Greg
-mike
-juice
not coincidentally, if you ever have a car that's overheating always crank the heat full blast no matter the weather to try and get the water temp down.
-Colin
-juice
-Colin