Ford Ranger

spoog · July 1999

you are right. most people dont race around that fast in their pickups. But what about emergency
response handling? The test criteria performed
on theses road tests certainly imitates real life emergency response/accident avoidal manuevering.

I've had many occasions where Ive had to turn HARD
to avoid another vehicle at or above 48 mph. just a thought.

sushi · July 1999

I guess so, but Im still skeptical about other people's readig until I do them myself. My father owns a Mazda, and it really is not as bad as you make it seem. On the road, I am more confident in te ranger than in the Tacoma, which my bud has. That is why I think a Ranger is more comfortable. I can vouch for that on the road first hand, but as for off-road, I don't know.

spoog · July 1999

I never said they were bad trucks. I have just been saying they are not up to tacoma standards.

The Ranger is a better value, but I always felt the Tacoma handled better on road and off.

These tests back up my point.

sushi · July 1999

I guess it's up to personal taste then, because I think the Ramger handles much better on the road than the Tacoma. That is why we got it. I mean if the Tacome was better on the road, we would have got that, but unlike the 4x4 versions, I can say that I test drove both and the Ranger did come out on top, and I have no problkem with it so far.

cpousnr · July 1999

popezeke:
Try http://www.fordranger.com
Their tech boards may help.

trent:
The 4.0 gets its max torque at 2750 rpm vs somewhere around 3700 for the 3.0, an asset in my mind. I dont think the overall power is so great that you would notice but the torque you will.

spoog:
I will check again but I recall the article specifically saying they tested 12 trucks.

Is that all the trucks?

Was there not something about "...computer simulated..." also in the article?

cpousnr · July 1999

I measure my Ranger with newly installed BF Goodrich 31x10.5x15 tires rear clearance at:

9 inches

I have also measured 1 4Runner, 3 Tacomas all with 31x10.5x15 tires at:

9 inches

This is the lowest clearance which equals the lowest point of the rear differential. If you do not believe me, go measure yourself.

"Facts are the greatest enamy of the many truths."

dgonneau · July 1999

Greetings. I've got a 1985 Ranger 4x4 with the 2.8L V6 (manual tranny). What would be the simplest and cheapest way to improve torque/hp on this engine? Nothing fancy (superchargers etc.), just wondering if I can pick up 15-20HP with $100-200 of cash.

Any advice?

Thanks,

Dan

ras4 · July 1999

I have a 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 engine and today it turned 280,000 miles and still runs like new. The only done to the engine was changing leaking valve cover gaskets at 100k. I think it's a very good truck and I have gotten my moneys worth. I think I'll retire it at 300K.

cpousnr · July 1999

dgonneau:
Try posting your question on:
http://www.fordranger.com. There are tech boards that may be able to give advise. Go there anyway there are come cool ideas that you can get.

ras4:
Impressive! Hope my 99 fairs as well.

salsa4 · July 1999

I just purchase a 1999 4x4 Ranger with 3.0 and 5 speed manual tranny . Can I tow it on the ground with a tow bar without disconnecting the drive shaft

kieranc · July 1999

Here's a new question:

Does anybody know if the 2-dr supercab has more headroom than the 4-door supercab? I'm shopping for a 4x4 xlt replacement for my '89 4x4 xlt, and it seems that there's a reinforcement bar in the ceiling of the 4 door '99 model running across the middle of the ceiling, from left to right. That bar decreases the headroom compared to the '89 I own. Does the 2 door have the same bar, or was it added for the 4-door only?

fosterville · July 1999

i have '99 SC 2dr. and i do not see any reinforcement bar across the ceiling. i'm not sure but i think it only exist on the 4-dr bec it doesn't have a b-pillar and they need to have some type of structural integrity. the 4dr is a good idea but i'm not sure about the design. it wiggles when you slam the front doors. one minor note, you also lose some space in the cab area because the seats cannot be tucked and stowed away like they do in the 2 dr SC. anyone out there who has some thoughts about the 4dr SC?

scape2 · July 1999

I have been hearing feedback that the 4door version of the Ranger squeaks quite a bit around the door areas, especially after the truck has been taken offroad. I guess if you don't mind the squeaks and rattles the 4door option is very practical and allows easy access.
Also, maybe during shipment the doors settle and may just need to be adjusted or tightened once in a while??

feltonm · July 1999

I'm going to get a 99 Ranger XLT Subercab 4WD, and have been trying to figure out what the net amount will be on my loan. The invoice price comes out to $19,000 if I finance through my bank, and $19,500 if I finance through Ford. I'm not sure however of what costs get added ontop of that though. I know that there's tax, and title & license, but what else is there, and about how much does everything cost?

I'm thinking about getting the 4-door cab, but am now wondering if it is really such a good idea. I don't want my doors to rattle when closed, or be really sqeeky when I'm driving. The biggest reason I was thinking about the 4-door was the easy access to the back. What do the rest of you think? Do any of you 2-door owners wish you had the 4-door cab, or vice versa?

fosterville · July 1999

You'll see a documentation fee during signing. Depending on what state you are in, it runs about up to $50 in CA. When you get the dealer to printout an invoice they use for ordering, there's a bunch of extras like FDAF(ford district advertising fund)about $45-$50, gas 11.60 for the ranger and some misc for 0.40-0.65. I don't think these are negotiable, but who knows, i paid it. Make sure you watch what you sign, whether it is everything you agreed to. That's pretty much all the extras i know off, unless there's some other charge they can think about to get more money out of the consumer.

I got the 2dr SC because i didn't think that the 4dr convenience is worth $600 to me. Also, i thought there was more room in the cab with the jumpseats tucked away. It would be nice to have the doors but i'm worried about what potential problems that may come up. I guess you have to figure out if you really need those doors. On the design aspect, personally i still have to hear complains about rattles and vibrations. I just wasn't confident seeing the wiggling of the rear door when you slam shut the front doors. The salesperson at the dealership told me that there has to be some 'give' on the rear doors when the front gets shut but that's the salesman talking. Has anyone out there have experiences you can share with us regarding the 4dr?

scape2 · July 1999

I sure hope your getting your XLT loaded for 19K? I would go with the low .9 or 1.9% financing offered by Ford. If you add just $25 to your payment it will more than make up the difference in the load between your bank and Ford.
I would also like to recommend the tow pkg and to get rid of those damn Firejunks they put on the Rangers.
If you have any more questions please ask away!

feltonm · July 1999

The truck I'm looking at is $18,400 invoice if I finance through my bank (I decided against the 4-door option). It's got cold weather, 4-speed auto, power grp, convenience grp, trailer hitch, off-road, and flareside plus pkg. That also includes the $1000 cash back from Ford and a $400 undergraduate discount that I got in the mail. Ford is no longer offering the .9 or 1.9 financing, it's now 2.9, 3.9, and 4.9. The reason I'm considering financing through my bank is that I have 1 yr of school left and want to make lower payments the 1st year. I can negotiate that with my bank, but not Ford...

What are the "Firejunks" you're talking about?

hciaffa · July 1999

: I recently purchased a used 98 XLT super cab w/4x4 and I was wondering if there is anyway to find out if one has limited slip or Traction Lock as Ford calls it. I can't make out the code for the axle on the safety compliance sticker on the driver door, looks like it was smeared with some chemical. I've tried Ford and all they told me that I have a 3.73 rear end. Is there a way to decipher the code on the tag attached to the rear differential. Any help would be appreciated.

cpousnr · July 1999

86 is a 3.73 open
F6 is a 3.73 limited slip

Firejunks are the Firestone tires that are stock
with the vehicle. the best i can say is they ride
real smooth on hard surfaced roads.
Check my webb site out in a few now and in a few
days to see the difference between Firestones
and BF Goodrich tires on the Ranger.

http://members.aol.com/Cpousnr/index1.html

scape2 · July 1999

cpou, I am seriously thinking about buying a set of 265's with some wheels and putting them on my Ranger. I would only use the 31's when I went offroading. I have had 31's for about 6 months now and I think I like the ride better with a 265 tire. How do you feel now you have 31's on your Ranger??
I refer to the Firestone tires that Ford puts on the Ranger as "Firejunks", for offroad or even light offroad they really are bad. I believe Ford may have gotten a huge bulk discount with these tires. They come in a 235 and a 265. I would highly recommend getting new tires right away.
Feltonm, no A/C?? if it doesn't have A/C don't pay more than 17,900 tops. Also, check the offroad pkg#, some dealers are not putting on the front skidplates that come with a certain pkg#. Also, don't forget the dealer kickback, this is negotiable also. Have you shopped other dealers and see what they can do?

trent · July 1999

How did the price you got on your Ranger match Edmund's invoice pricing? It sounds like it might be less than "invoice".

jfowlerjr · July 1999

Maybe someone on this board can help me. I'm looking at a new Ranger or B-Series (2 wheel drive X-Cab)but I'm not sure what engine would be good for me. Most of the time the truck would be just be used to drive to work and back with some light hauling. Don't have anything to tow write now but I would like to buy a small boat to tow in the coming years. I was looking at the 2.5 liter but I hear when you turn the a/c on you have no power. The 3.0 liter seems to have mechanical problems (Is this correct?) and the 4.0 liter cost $1000 more is it worth the price. Also I like to drive a stick but I see the towing is almost double when you have an automatic. Any other options I should look for in my truck. This would be my first truck so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
James

sushi · July 1999

Defenitely the 4.0L.

cpousnr · July 1999

jfowlerjr:
James my friend. Well I believe in the "Tim the Toolman" philosophy of "MORE POWER" but. . .

I have the 4.0 5sp manual in my 99 Supercab 4X4. I really like it. I guess I broke it in correctly because at around 10,000 miles MPG went to around 18-19 in town and 22-23 on the hwy, twice 25. That is not racing it from lights and 75-77 on interstates. Get around 80mph and the mpg goes south. Almost 15,000 miles and no problems at all, no pings, no grunts just smooth riding. I use 85 octane gas all the time in Colo even when going 4 wheelin at 9K+ altitude. It has never balked, never hesitated and runs real smooth. I like the torque curve with max torque at 2750 rpm.

I don't know a lot about the 3.0, vince8 or sushi could help more. I understand some people have had pinging problems that are hard to cure even with changing and running higher octane gas. I know of no other problems.

Cannot help you on the 4 cyl. But more power is better than less in my humble opinion.

There is a web site called Ranger Station. They have posting sites on all engine congigurations plus a lot more. That URL is on my puter at work. Try a search or wait till monday and I will repost the URL for Ranger Station.

I firmly believe my Ranger, like my other cars, if broken in correctly and oil and filter and air filter changed REGULARLY will last a long time. Had an 86 Caravan I sold with 138,000 miles, orig CV joints, compression all even and in spec and it did not burn oil. Same for a 78 Corona with 144,000, and my 73 Celica with 133,000.

For staters, try this site for further info:
http://www.fordranger.com/.

Good luck my friend they are good vehicles and well priced for what you get. Check Edmunds or Kelly Blue Book at http://www.kbb.com for detailed info on rebates, holdbacks etc and cut your best deal. At year end somewhere between one and two thousand below invoice may not be out of order. I got my XLT 3500 under sticker, 1300 under invoice and got them to finance the whole amount for 2.9% plus a mistake on their addition gave me free cruise control.

cpousnr · July 1999

Considering the same idea. The BFG's 31s bounce a bit, trying air at 28-29lb. But oh God do they girp in th 4 wheel drive arena.

The best I can say about the Firestones is they do provide a degree of rubber to keep the rims from scraping the road.

After laying out 500+ for the BFG's I am considering extra tires to save them for winter and fun stuff. Just gotta think of how to break it to the wife. "Honey, cut back on groceries so I can get another set of tires for the truck."

I am a Chief but there are some limits to my abilities with the Chiefette.

cpousnr · July 1999

The pay back from the Chiefette could last for longer than it is worth. Still paying a bit for the 4 wheel drive trip she did'nt like. Was the topic of conversation at a poker game last night with the other guys wives.

shildret · July 1999

I have a 98 Ranger with the 4.0 L engine and 5-spd automatic transmission, barely over 10K miles, with a recurring problem I hope others may either recognize, or at least be forewarned.

In the last 5 months, it has died *3* times on the freeway with problems in the electronic fuel pump. No warning, no hope -- the engine just shuts off and (if you are lucky, and in the right lane) you can only coast to a stop.

The first time, after a stall in the middle of the freeway and a 20-mile tow, the dealer who repaired the truck said the fuel pump relay had gone. The second time (2.5 months later, on a different freeway on-ramp, and a 20-mile tow ) they replaced the entire fuel pump. Now a third time, (2.5 months later still, and a 40-mile tow) with the same problem I am at my wits end.

1) Do any other readers have knowledge of similar problems?
2) Any suggestions on how MANY times I should be subjected to this dangerous condition, and what I might do about it? I'm past the "lemon law" timeframe as the truck is 18 months old. But I am ready to sell it immediately, given I just can't depend upon it working safely.

Thanks for any thoughts and recommendations...

cpousnr · July 1999

shildret:
Sorry no simular problem here.

A suggestion. The vehicle is equiped with a fuel shutoff under the right passenger kickplate. In the event of an accident, it shuts off fuel to the engine and it has to be reset. Could your problem be somewhere in that area?

Check the following URL:
http://www.fordranger.com/
On it is numerous technical interchange sites like this one. In all of my reading from that, there is no report of the problem you describe, but give it a try.

Also, one called "Ranger Station", I do not have the URL, breaks down by engine posting areas. Again, have not seen the issue you describe.

Hope this helps but I would center on the shutoff area, maybe a relay is not releasing or is defective and you go into a fuel shutoff situation.?!?

Come on back and let us know if you find anything else out. Hope this helps.

cpousnr · July 1999

Updated the homepage with the Music Pass trip and a nice shot of the XLT with B.F. Goodrich 31s
http://members.aol.com/Cpousnr/index1.html

Check it out!

cpousnr · July 1999

Just for grins and giggles, if it happens again try pushing in that button I refered to. It is in the owners manual how to do it. See if you get fuel flow again.

I have a source that may be able to help but need to know the first 15 numbers of the vehicle VIN number to see how it is configured. It is in the drivers window or on the registration.

Also, where are you located?

jfowlerjr · July 1999

Well I went to the dealer yesterday to test drive all the different engines. I ran into an problem, NOBODY HAS ANY 2-WHEEL DRIVES!!! Dealer tryed to tell me that in my area (Washington State) that nobody wants them. Dodge dealer said the same thing. Anyway I'm thinking about the 3.0 liter because they currently give you a credit for that engine and another one for get a 5-speed. Dealer afforded $18,000 for the one 2-wheel drive that they had (3.0 liter, 5-speed, 4 door, tilt, cruise and power package) My Dad has a 4.0 liter 4X4 with all the goodies and he loves it, but with all the discounts the 4.0 liter would now cost me $1500 more. Anybody have a preference between 5-Speed and Automatic when towing.

James
Thank Again

cpousnr · July 1999

$18K for a 2 wheel drive 3.0?!?
sounds high my friend but colo is different than Wash. Whey I bought mine the 2 wheel drive XLTs were about 12K which included the 1K and $400 rebates.
A suggestion? I have read, but have not confirmed, that the XLs, when equiped with the 4.0, come with 4 wheel disk brakes. Is that another option in your choice, an XL?
A Ranger 4x4, non-supercab, 3.0 is advertised in the Denver paper today MSRP $17,845 less 3,148 discount for total of $14,697. Supercab adds a grand as does the 4x4 so I dont understand why their price is not more like 15K. Just must be more in Wash state.
For towing, depends on what you tow. The auto is good if you tow something over 3000 lb but you would want the towing option suspension, bigger beefer shocks etc. Other options? The XLTs are well equiped as is so unless you have a desire for power everything, you can after market add fogs, kc's etc. and add them like I will do to a Bull Bar on the front. Get a bug screen, cheap @ 70 bucks and saves front from chipping. If you want tint, get the 3M aftermarket for maybe 150. Had it on an Intrapid and it NEVER bubbled. Just make sure it is 3M and not some odd ball. Bed liner sprayed in, look at Ameriguard vs Rino. A bit cheaper and high quality. Do not get this stuff from the dealer unless you want to pay more.
When I bought mine in Jan., AIR was a freebe on the 4.0 but cost $800 on the 3.0 engines. Consider that in your search.

No 2X2's, that is strange. Only thing

shildret · July 1999

Dennis --

Thanks so much for your suggestions! I remembered the emergency fuel pump relay switch, and checked it to no avail -- it had not popped up. Checking fuses this morning has revealed the fuel pump 20A fuse had blown; swapping it with another similar fuse started the engine for a second, and then that fuse blew, too...

So there is something going on in the electrical system for the fuel pump.

I did indeed check the other Ranger sites you mentioned, and as you found no similar hits, which at least makes me feel a bit better -- this doesn't seem to be a problem applying to all Rangers.

Thanks again for the input.

sushi · July 1999

If you're in Washington, go to B.C. Canada. It's cheaper and they have 2 wheel drive.

scape2 · July 1999

jfowlerjr, hello I am a severe Ranger fan. I would get the 3.0 rather than the 2.5 for towing/hauling purposes. Also, get it in the auto if you plan on towing alot, 5spd if only once in a while. towpkg a must. 18K is WAY! too much for a 2wd Ranger, don't pay it the dealer is trying to take you!. I live in the NW and they advertise 2WD kingcab Rangers in the 2.5 for 12-13K pretty well loaded, A/C, pwr steering, pwr brakes, XLT pkg. I would not pay more than 14.5K for a 3.0 like equipped.
Also, don't forget the possible rebates, delear kickback.
The 3.0 is also a good engine. It has been around for sometime. I own a 4.0 5spd XLT 4x4 stepside. I have a friend who has worked for Ford for 14 years and he says the 3.0 is actually the more reliable engine. I chose the 4.0 because I needed that extra torque for my outdoor activities. Good luck and let us know what you find.
CP - the 31's look great!

chevy10 · July 1999

You wouldnt have a problem if you bought an S10. It has a 4.3 L V6with more power and torque than the Ranger does. there are no mechanical problems with this engine. Remember its a Vortech engine which have been proven to be much more durable than the triton line-up. oh and by the way the a/c wont effect how much power you have. I have one myself and ive never had any problems with anything.

fosterville · July 1999

vince8:

Question for you, I've been to the B3000 engine knock topic. If the 3.0 has been around and it's reliable how come they haven't fixed the knock on this engine? I only have about 3000mi on my 3.0 and i get knocks even on a slight grade. Usually, its when shifting from 3rd to 4th, then to 5th (5spd manual). Even shifting from 65mph from 4th to 5th, it makes the straining sound. On level pavement, it's pretty decent. I'm waiting for it to get worst before i take it to the dealer. Any opinions?

cpousnr · July 1999

You must have a short in the wires somewhere. Do not buy you haveing 2 pumps in a row bad based on no other reports. Somehow you are drawing too much current on that pumpline.

I mentioned the other swithch because you had not mentioned in before.

Good luck. Tell the service dept about the fuse and if necessary go to the zone office.

cpousnr · July 1999

Hmmmm the S-10, where to begin. . .

sushi · July 1999

Sucks! I've had one, it breaks like a pack of sticks.

scape2 · July 1999

I will talk with my friend at Ford and see if he has heard of a 3.0 engine knock happening in every 3.0 sold.
S-10, everyone knows the S-10 is the lowest in quality/reliability. Granted the Vortec 4.3 puts out more HP, what about torque?

sushi · July 1999

S-10 has like 240 torque, but I know that it will break it like a n hour after I buy it,

jfowlerjr · July 1999

Well I got off work early to so though I'd go look for a truck again. I found a couple of used 2-wheel drives and very expensive $17000 for 4 door 3.0 liter automatic and power package but no tilt (I'm 6"1 I need the leg room). Found another dealer to talk today though. He said it is alot easier to deal with the 4 wheel drives since they have soooooooooo may of them. I started to look at a 4X4, 4.0 liter, 5 speed automatic, power everything, 4 door, tow package, sport bucket seats, premium stereo and flareside box for $19999 (It's orange though). Would this be a good deal? I know it's not what I'm looking for but it seems like a good price, it looks really cool and would help my resale value, I think. One more thing anybody know when the explorers big 4.0 liter engine is going to be put in the ranger (It would make engine choice so much easier)

jfowlerjr · July 1999

If I go to B.C. Canada. Do I still have to pay may areas sales tax? Where I'm at the tax rate is 8.4%

scape2 · July 1999

jfowler, yes, that is a pretty good price for the options you listed. I bought my 98 Ranger XLT Flareside, 4.0, 5spd, tow package, offroad pkg, pwr everything and more a year ago for 19.6K. Sounds like you may not like the Orange? Keep shopping if you don't. The 5spd auto is very good for towing. Do you know what kind of rear end it had?

sushi · July 1999

James, you'll have to pay 14 percent tax, but you will get 7% back since you are an american.. Also , your money is worth more there! I saw a B4000 Manual with convenience package for 17000 canadian! That is like 13000 american!

cuda2 · July 1999

I own a 99 mazda b3000 and am a bit disappointed in the power. Does anyone out there have any ideas for bumping up the ponies a tad? ie a new chip or something like that.

cpousnr · July 1999

I would tell them "19500 and lets sign the papers."
They are getting ready for the 2000s so you have a bit of leverage.
Vince will tell you to get a 4.10 rear but for what you want the 3.73 will do. Hasn't stopped my XLT yet with the 3.73.

VINCE!!! My mileage dropped to around 17 around town. Guess it takes more power to push those 31s. Been reading about some people that are getting 70-80k miles on those BFG's.
What do you think about the looks of mine with the 31s?
http://member.aol.com/Cpousnr/myford1.jpg

kay12 · July 1999

The information on the equipment seems to be inaccurate. All the options from the Ford dealers seem to be quite a bit higher than listed on Edmund's page. Such as automatic transmission $961 instead of $665.

popezeke · July 1999

I have found that the fuses will build up a high temperature oxide coating on the tips. You should check this out also. I suffered withthis for about 6 months until I found this little thing could act like a burnt fuse.

Pope Zeke IV

Ford Ranger

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