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Motor Oil
Just curious what you all are running in your new
gasoline trucks?
gasoline trucks?
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Ya'll hear about Mobil 1's airplane oil recall? Mobil rebuilt a bunch of airplane motors. From what I remember, the infrequent use of airplanes combined with a 'perfect' oil resulted in all the oil draining off the cylinder walls, leading to rust and corrosion, leading to severe engine damage, and planes landing in unusual places.
Of course, all I use in my off road two stroke race bikes is full synthetic........
but i also believe oil protection decreases exponentially. the more particles in your oil, the damage it does next flow thru, then even more damage the next flow thru, etc. personally i'll stick with the 3K. someone may get 300,000 miles by doing 10K mile oil changes, but i'm not going to be the guinea pig....
Generally, for spark ignition engines (ie, gas), use an oil rated SJ; for compression ignition (ie, diesel), use CH-4. These ratings are shown in the API "starburst" marked somewhere on the container. As long as the oil meets those ratings, buy the least expensive you can find.
For us diesel drivers with giant oilpans, the least expensive part is important!
http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html#chooseoil
also, a mechanic who has a call in radio program on saturdays is saying that he runs 20w50 in all his vehicles and recommends it to everyone regardless of whether they drive a hugo or f350.??
cdean: What about water condensation in your oil if you let it set for 12 months? I wouldn't do it.
I still believe that you get the best performance and longevity if you stick with just one brand instead of switching every time you change your oil.
This link will explain what each oil additive does, and what concentration is found in many popular oils.
http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html#chooseoil
Oil itself is fine way up to and past 3000 miles. what isn't fine is the antioxidants, anti-acids, and other additives in your oil. Most of these additives are the first thing to breakdown, or become depleted by reaction. Without these additives, the water produced from combustion, along with natural condensation and other acids produced by broken hydrocarbons can "attack" your oil, and actually start the breakdown process of the actual lubricant. some oils last longer than others.
I also asked him about oils like Amsoil, where oil is not changed until 25000, and just a filter is changed every 5000(?) with filter. His reply was: When you change the filter and add that one quart, what your are doing is replenishing the additives the oil needs to protect itself.
I'm thinking of the Slick, T-Plus and TufOil products. The S & T products are once every 50K and add a quart or more to the oil change. The TufOil claims 4 Oz. per oil change. This works out to be one quart per 8 oil changes. (24K to 40K miles.)
Slick says "We're better."
T-Plus says "More gobbledgook than Slick."
Tuf says "We're the most slippery on earth."
Does anybody notice a difference when using these products? If so, can you quantify the difference and for how many miles?
Or is this stuff just as slippery as snake oil?
Rich
The concept of adding micropulverized teflon powder to oil started in the printing industry, where it was used to quiet the gear trains in the presses. A generation ago, before any of the products were commercially available or widely advertised, a friend (whose brother was a printer) began adding teflon powder to his VW. When it hit a quarter-million miles, I decided that the stuff more investigating. I tried a batch of TufOil in a "B" motor Saab, an engine known to be a "high friction" design. Mileage improved by 10%, and this was a good quality test, with a predictable 100 miles-per-day commute, summer-time temperatures, and careful, multi-tank-fill fuel measurements. With todays low-friction designs, such mileage improvements are unlikely, but the implied reduction in wear on engine start is the real reason I have continued to use TufOil.
I started to Castrol oil when the car has 5,000 miles and replaced oil every 3,000 miles with Fram filter. Treated the engine with Slick 50 at 50,000 miles. Changes to Castrol Synthentic at 80,000 mile and replace oil every 5,000 with Fram oil filter. Treated the engine with Slick 50 at 120,000 miles. Treasted the engine with Dul Lube at 150,000 miles. Now the car is old and start to appear small problems but the engine is still very strong I can still speed up 75 Miles per hours quickly and smoothly. However, I retired the Sentra because others parts's age problems.
BTW, I am an engineer, motorsports enthusiast.
Work full time as a process engineer designing medical products made of PTFE. I don't use it in my engines..........
What's the logic behind teflon oil and the rebuild issue?
Rich
you're lawnmower ran fine without oil because those engines hardly need any oil. oil is not pumped in those engines, it is splashed. plus friction is so minimul anyway, you could squirt a little oil on all the components and run it dry for an hour before it would blow.
second of all, mixing viscosities is not idea. mixing different brands of the same viscosity is OK, but when you mix say a 10W-30 with a straight 30, you are mixing 2 entirely different compounds and additives, and the reaction between the two is completely unknown. today's engineering materials in bearings and wear parts are incredibly hard, wear resistant, as well as "slick". i've seen zero maintenance trucks with oil changes at 30,000 mile intervals make it to 150,000 miles. but then again, i've some of those burn up before 100K also. I wouldn't take part in that crapshoot.
I wouldn't want to be the buyer of your trade-ins, and the buyer of my trade-ins gets a more frequently lubricated machine. Still, you are probably saving money.
Tom201 - have you looked at the semisynthetic tech2000? Only an extra quarter or two a quart....
As far as mixing viscosities goes -- did you really (ie: mix 10W30 with 20W50) or were you just mixing 10W30 with 30WT (for example)? In the summer, after a very few seconds of operation you'll be running at 30WT anyway (with that combo).
Oil doesn't really matter with a coolant leak. Some of these smaller engines seem to take forever to heat up to oil-curdling temperatures, even when air cooled.
I've never used Slick 50 in any of my vehicles, and generally run over 100K miles without any problems. Use whatever oil's on hand, generally 10W30 and change it regularly (5000 miles in my gas engines, 7500 in the diesel). No problems to date...
it reached 140K. The first time I used that oil, the engine was so smooth and so quiet that I could not even imagine. Then, I've used it also on my wife's '89 maxima. I guess it's easy to observe the improvement on old and cranky engines. Even though I have not read any info on synthetic, I believed it's worth the money. By the
way, I changed oil around 4-5K intervals.
I have just purchased a '99 silverado truck and was thinking about changing to mobil 1 after the first 500 miles. how often do you change your oil and do you use the mobil 1 oil filter?
Some years ago, I rebuilt a Ford 351W engine and put Mobil-1 in it from the first fire-up. It revved fast and ran smooth. After 3000 miles of adding a quart every 500 miles, I switched to non-synthetic (Castrol) and the oil consumption dropped quickly.
My conclusion was that the Mobil-1 worked so well, the rings didn’t seat.
By this time, I was stationed in Hawaii and before I reached the 10,000 mile target to switch back to Mobil-1, I sold the car there and brought back our other car. I had picked the 10k target out of the air, since no one seemed to have any better ideas at the time.
The 351W was stuffed into a ’62 Comet with headers, close ratio T-10, and a four barrel progressive linkage Holley 650. I was inclined to collect tickets with it, and the Navy would only ship one car to my next assignment on the Mainland. It looked quite plain. What we used to call a “sleeper”. Did embarrass unsuspecting Mustangs and Camaros though. Great fun.
Moral of the story? Contrary to what Mobil told me (I called their offices in New York), don’t start with Mobil-1. Wait until the rings are seated well.
I haven't been using the mobil 1 oil filter. I really just learned there is one, and don't know anything about it. I do change the oil and filter with mobil 1 oil every 3000 miles. As for the break-in suggestions, I can only say I hear that over and over, let the rings seat first. But there are several questions that remain. For example, if this is true, why does Chevrolet make Mobil 1 the factory fill on new Corvettes, that have NO break-in miles? Same for BMW I am told. Some newer engines use hard surfaces that do not wear in to the degree that a freshly honed iron cylinder sleeve might. For example, on some Japanese engines, hard coatings from ion implantation or ceramics will not "scuff-in." They have to mate and be matched from the beginning. In the case of the Silverado I don't know. But used to be break-in was kind of obvious. You started with a hot-running new engine that felt very tight, perhaps ran a bit rough, and gave off break-in odors, and dirtied the oil quickly. My new Silverado, in contrast seems very smooth from the get-go, and after 1100 miles, the oil still appears clean. I'm going to change it with Mobil 1 at 1500 anyway.
the reason that Corvettes are shipped with the synthetic is because they run hotter and do not have engine oil coolers, unless ordered with the perfomance suspension. And even then, many owners who did order the performance suspension report that their cars arrived without the oil coolers anyway. Now as for the 20 minute break-in run, all engines get that. But think about it, how many miles can that break-in run amount to, maybe 20?
The Corvettes and Camaros used to share the same engine, the iron block aluminum head LT1 engine. The Corvette shipped with Mobil 1, the Camaro did not, but the Z28/performance axle option came with an engine oil cooler on the Camaro.
I've been using Castrol Syntec 5W-50 on two Cherokees and would like to use it on the Silverado at the third oil change. Bad karma?