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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I'm having some recent trouble with my "baby".. she's a 2000 GTP with 110k.
Trouble: For about the last 5,000 miles, she's been getting horrific gas mileage, about 50-60% of normal. Went from about 22 mpg average to about 12, and it worsens as time passes. Most recently, there's been some issues with accelleration, typically when the supercharger is engaged.
Recently, I did a full maintenance round: new tires (Potenza RE950s), synthetic oil change, fuel line cleaning (looked like an IV drip), oil system cleaning, etc. All in the hopes that my mpg problem would go away and I could move on. Nope -- now the new problems have surfaced.
Shifting problems, high revving before gear changes, and most recently, if the supercharger is engaged, the meter goes up but rarely does down (like its 'stuck').
Anyways, I'm at my wits end, and before I take it in, I want to go prepared and have some idea of what to say so I don't look like fresh bait to the dealer.
Within the last 100 miles, the service has been gone. Right now, it looks like I'll be getting about 150 miles on this recent tank since the maintenance round. I used to get 400 on a tank. With gas prices being what they are, you can see my frustration. I keep thinking that its "cleaning itself out" and just to give it time, but I also don't want to make anything worse!
History: At 8,000, tranny went bad, GM replaced 100%. OEM tires lasted for 70,000 miles (dont ask, I dont know!!), regular oil changes, regular service updates, etc. 2nd battery, new climate control deck (that went bad) and due to some hub/sensor issue, I've driven for a long time with no ABS or TCS. (If anyone has a suggestion on getting that turned back on, let me know -- I'd love to have it back but not for $600 to replace the hub).. now at 110,000, looks good, has run OK up until the last 5k. She's been a trooper, for sure.
Any help would be appreciated tremendously.
Richard Riga
RichardRiga@aol.com
also can a catalayt converter make your engine get so hot to a 275 degrees? and possible blow a hole in your engine?
Thanks for any help I can get.
Lori
Three things I didn't see mentioned in your message, O2 sensor, catalytic convertor, and timing. You can get an O2 sensor from parts store if your lucky, some emissions stuff you've got to get at dealer. It's easy to install. The converter my be gone, do you hear rattling from it? Back pressure and or bad readings at the O2 sensor may cause you to use more fuel than needed, but you would have noticed high revs, almost red line before changing gears. Also, timing, most expensive I think. If you have a belt like most cars today, not a chain, sometimes they will slip a cog or two. My dad had one slip, car had no power, none, reset the timing and got more power and gas mileage.
good luck
WorleyGuy
I read your reply to Prath20 & Jamie.
I would like to know, if you don't mind, how much that costs you?
Also, did you look into it being the O2 sensor or the converter?
Just curious, have a co-worker with this problem.
He took it to a "Reputable Shop" and gave him a new battery and alternator for $450. I told him next time he wants to do that to one of his cars, I'd do it for $450 and I'd come to him.
Anyway, he's got the same mileage and it sounds like he has the same issue as Prath and Jamie.
Thanks
WorleyGuy
When we had this problem, the car had 81K miles. I don't think the 02 sensor or catalytic converter was causing the random stalling and starting problem. It now has 151K miles and still has the original O2 sensor and catalytic converter.
The crankshaft position sensor was $40, the ignition module was $140. The labor was rather high, but again, it was repaired at a dealership.
And I agree with you - $450 for a battery and alternator is pretty steep!
Hope this helps.
Do I need to replace the entire hub? Sure seems like I should be able to do just the bearings.
Otherwise, this is a great car.
I am looking for a cheaper alternative.
have replace 02 sensor. other normal maintenance battery etc.
Had a problem awhile back that involve a vacuum activated fuel control valve on front of engine. The problem is that is was pulling too much vacuum. I was getting a fuel to lean code. I replace the valve, the vacuum hose ( before I determined the problems was too much vacuum. I capped off the line and valve. runs fine with no engine light.
Now I am having this race condition, and I think it might be related. Problem has be intermittent. Could be heat related I live in Texas? and so far no codes.
don't wreck your sweet ride.
I have a 99 Grand Prix GT that keeps stalling. From these Forums I've heard that the crank sensor can be faulty. What kinda job is this to change? is it something that i can do myself or should i take it to a garage and do it? I have some experiene with engines, but not a whole lot.
I've also heard stories of guys having faulty starter solenoids. Could this be the problem?
:sick:
After much parts changing and $$$ spent I discovered that the fuel pump electrical circuit has an .8 ohm power resistor that was going open intermittently at high temperature. I replaced the resistor with GM PN 88951182 ($40) and it fixed the problem.
You can diagnose this problem yourself when the car won't run by disconnecting the resistor (it is in the right front wheel well) and jumping the mating connector with a paper clip. If the car runs with the jumper installed you will know that the resistor is the problem. However, the resistor and connector is hard to access so you may want to just
go ahead and have it replaced now rather than wait for it to fail again so that a positive diagnosis can be confirmed.
Good luck - hope it helps!
I have the same problem with my 99. A mechanic friend of mine told me to spray dry graphite in the key slot and then blow in there with a straw, It worked! and lasted about a year before I needed to do it again. Don't be suprised if the car still goes (ding,ding,ding) after you take the key out. That part didn't bother me as long as I can get the key out.
jbd1
THANK YOU ALLhttp://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorc- ons/emo_bawling.gif
cry
Please help!Thankyou!
Sounds like you have similar symptoms. Maybe your alternator has less than optimum output or a loose connection causing intermittent problems.
Right turn - no sensation.
I tried turning the wheel all the way to the right and it even made the sensation (sorry - I can't think of a better word) at the beginning of turning the wheel left (with the wheel all the way to the right to start.) So, it essentially happens at the beginning of turning the wheel to the left - no matter what direction the wheels are.
If anyone has experienced something like this, please let me know. I read about the recall on the 97's with the PS rack, but that sounds more extreme (or is this just the beginning?)
Thanks.