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Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan



  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    My wife and I drove the Mercury to Florida this past weekend. Very comfortable ride and seats. Very good fuel economy too. At speeds of less than sixty-five MPH the car got nearly thirty-two MPG. At a cruising spped of seventy-two MPH, the car returned a bit better than twenty-eight MPG.

    The four banger is smooth and quiet but lacks any low end grunt at highway speed.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    edited May 2011
    Many manufacturers are promising a feature that shuts off the engine after so many seconds of idling and restarts when the accelerator is pressed, (for fuel economy). I don't know that much about the system but wonder if someone who does would address the issue of whether it would harm the battery and starting motor which weren't designed for so many repetitive cycles. Doesn't the starting motor draw over 100 amps while powering the flywheel before ignition? It seems intuitively that this would be hard on a battery and perhaps on the starting motor pinion system. Any comments?
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Just a guess,

    I believe either Toyota or Volkswagon has a design where the flywheel spins with the engine off, and when you press the pedal it runs up the engine, so no starter motor is needed. Of course it will only spin for a short period of time, so long lights would see the engine spin up at least once while sitting. I think it is electromagnetic in design, similar to the clutch on the AC compressor. When stopped the clutch is off, when engaged, it powers on to spin up the motor.

    The other way they can do it is with the hybrid system, where the starter motor is also a drive motor. Instead of a flywheel, its an electric motor/generator. Instead of a large bank of batteries like in the hybrid though, it may only have a few cells to provide power to spin up the motor but not to provide traction, after the motor is running it switches to recharge.

    Those are two ways they can do it, whether or not they do is another matter.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Too late to edit my previous post, BUT, Peugeot has it.

    Diesel Hybrid

    On this particular car, the Hybrid system is not the same as the Synergy drive or Ford, or Hyundai systems. This one has 2 different drive trains, the diesel direct drive in the front, and the electric motor in the rear. It uses a high voltage starter/generator for starting the engine. So basically just as I had described, Peugeot is doing. Pretty neat.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Many manufacturers are promising a feature that shuts off the engine after so many seconds of idling and restarts when the accelerator is pressed, (for fuel economy).

    The term is Auto-start-stop (you can figure out the acronym on your own) or Micro-hybrid. Minis in Europe have this feature, as does the European Ford Focus. I believe Range Rovers do as well.

    Ford is planning to introduce this feature to all it's vehicles, since idling gets you 0 mpg.

    I don't know that much about the system but wonder if someone who does would address the issue of whether it would harm the battery and starting motor which weren't designed for so many repetitive cycles.

    Yup, it would, so the micro-hybrids use a more robust starter and flywheel gear. Also, some systems use sensors to track the position of each piston and what cycle its on so it can use that information to make "lite-off" faster. My understanding is the battery is still conventional.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    Have a 2010 Milan I-4. Great car. I have noticed that the view through the rear view mirror during rainy driving is distorted and busy because of specks of dirt and water which act like lenses or some such. I don't like the rear wiper solution that many cars offer and I'm glad I don't have it. I suspect that the shape of the roof and airodynamics don't sweep wind over the rear window very well. I wanted to ask if rain-x on the rear window would eventually lead to clouding from the the retained material? Otherwise it escapes the only criticism of rain-x on the front wind shield is that streaking with each wiper swipe can occur if you apply it incorrectly. There are no wipers on the rear of Fusion/Milan cars so putting it on the rear window seems a good match?

    Am I missing something?
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Rain-X works fine, been using it for years, and never had an issue. Every couple weeks I would wash the windshield with a good window cleaner and reapply it. Most of the problems people have using rain-x is due to not applying it correctly. You need to clean the glass thoroughly, then apply the rain-x, let it dry, apply a second coat, let it dry, then buff it off. The last step is where people have problems, if you don't buff it off, it hazes over and streaks. Use a good micro fiber cloth to polish the glass, and you wont have problems.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,040
    It doesn't play well with automatic wipers. Other than that I've never had a problem.
  • ckone0814ckone0814 Posts: 71
    edited July 2011
    Need to get a new daily driver. Commute is 80 miles per day. I'm used to Toyota, Honda, Acura quailty but want to give Fusion a shot. Would probably be looking for used, 08-09.

    I AM EXTREMELY ANAL about squeaks, rattles, etc. I have an 07 Mustang GT convertible and it's not a quiet car but I don't expect it to be. For my everyday car I need peace.

    Will Fusion fit the bill? Thanks.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    well So far my 2010 Sport has 38k miles on it, no complaints, it's about as quiet as it can get with the low profile tires and big 3.5 V6. I traded a Camry Hybrid in on it and the Fusion is quieter than the Camry was. It is also holding together much better than the Camry.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    I chose the 2010 Milan because it was the quietest car I test drove (an I-4) even with 17" tires. After a year I delight in it's quiet ride--no squeaks or rattles either. I imagine that high end cars are more quiet but in the mid size market I found the Milan (which I suspect is just like the Fusion--or does it have more noise insulation?) to be the quietest. Triple laminated windshield and double door seals make a difference. I doubt the models pre-2010 would be as quiet if they don't have these features. Tires make a huge difference and I am stayig with the OEM Michelilns until they wear out. I may go to a 16" goodyear assurance when the change occurs in search of even more quiet. I had them on my last Mercury and they make an huge difference. An additional feature is that you can dim the inside lights (all of them) so the night ride is dark as well as quiet. A well engineered car which has not caused one moment of buyers remorse; to the contrary I like it more now than when I bought it.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I purchased a 2008 Fusion SEL 6 cyl in May of 2010. I have driven the car 11,000 miles. I like the car. It is quiet on the road. It gets good gas mileage in the 20's. Check Consumer Reports and note, repair wise, that it has top ratings.
  • cannon3cannon3 Posts: 296
    Being the owner of the first generation Fusion (2006 SEL V6). I have about 70,000 trouble free/squeak free miles on this vehicle. I do have a small amount of wind noise coming from the right side of the windshield when the car reaches 60MPH.
    I do however recommend you go with a 2.5 4cyl Fusion, rather than the 2.3 4cyl. I believe the 2.5 became available in 2009/10 model year. You get a bit more HP and better MPG.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    The 2.5L replaced the 2.3L for the 2010 model year, when the redesigned Fusion was released. It gained 15hp and fuel economy ratings improved by 2mpg city and 3mpg highway (20/28 to 22/31). The 2.5L has a 6-speed automatic vs. the 5-speed auto used with the 2.3L, which explains the improved fuel economy.

    The 2011 models have even better ratings at 23/33 for the 2.5L/6AT, unless it has one of the two "Appearance Package" options. They add the SelectShift manual shifting feature and are programmed with a slightly more aggressive shift pattern. They are rated at 22/30mpg.
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • podpod Posts: 176
    Just completed the one year anniversary and average MPG (mixed) is 31.9. Highway MPG@67mph is approximated at 36.0 (with the occasional tailwind assisted 41 mpg thrown in there). The 31.9 is calculated based on gallons pumped and miles on odometer and correlated quite well with the dashboard calculator which is a bit optimistic at 32.4. I have the 6 speed automatic. I do not try to hypermile or try to keep at 55 mph (it's all about rpm's/mile and that is why the highway numbers are so good). In fact it gets worse fuel economy at 55mph than it does at 67mpg. The engineers have selected a good gear ratio for overdrive which puts the sweet spot near 65 (provided it kicks down to overdrive which it always does unless there is a high hill or some other load which requires a downshift). I am very pleased with the performance of the car as well; I rarely need extreme acceleration. I regard fuel efficient driving as rather like riding a bike--there are times to put the energy into it and there are times when you can coast with minimal energy input and hold speed. The hills and the wind are the enemy. I rarely have to use the brakes on the highway since my eyes work well and my neck pivots and I manage to avoid situations which would require braking. I'm sure these numbers (and the numbers of any car except a hybrid) would suffer substantially in stop and go traffic. I have about ten minutes of such on my return commute each day which probably cost me about 2 mpg overall. If the Fusion is essentially the same car as the Milan I highly recommend it as a well engineered vehicle which would be hard to best for the money. By being firm I was able to get the brand new 2010 Milan for $18.3K despite a $25.2K sticker. Part of that was that the Milan was discontinued in 2011, part of it was good negotiating skills at the end of month quota time. Very satisfied with my last 20 years of Mercury (aka Ford) products.
  • cannon3cannon3 Posts: 296
    Took the 2006 V6 SEL on a road trip. Average speed 75MPH. Average MPG per computer was 27.8MPG. I am very satisfied with the MPG. Even had the a/c running at times. Great vehicle.
  • 2007 Mercury Milan Premier AWD V6, audiophile system, etc. We have everything except the kitchen sink on this vehicle, except the CD GPS, couldn't figure out that piece of engineering, since at the time I could buy a $100 Garmin. Also didn't understand why the passenger seat has all manual controls, but leather, with a 2 stage seat-heating system. These minor issues aside, this Has been an excellent vehicle for us. But I am writing because of a bigger problem. This car has a Mazda motor/trans. Excellent engineering, except for the fact that this trans has a slip mechanism for FWD (when powered off), that, when parked on an incline on snow or ice will allow the vehicle to move with gravity. I won't get into detail about this, but it caused me to take pix and send this car back To the dealer, at which time the workings of the trans and differential transaxle were explained. It was recommended that we use the parking brake while stationed on an incline. We adhered to this recommendation for about a year, and then we parked the car for a month with the parking brake on, because we were used to this at this point. When we returned and drove the car, the rear rotor was warped, and I decided at this point to just replace all rotors, because they were almost due. However, I learned about this parking brake rotor warpage phenomenon the hard way, and I hopeto spread the message: if your rear rotors are thin, do not leave your cable brake squeezing one section of your rotor like I did. It can be an expensive oversight. Remember that each rotor is actually 2 discs supported with gussets, or ribs, for cooling. If your caliper squeezes these 2 discs where there is no gusset, it will warp your rotor (and in our case it seized the caliper, most shops will insist on replacing the entire caliper assembly, rather than replacing parts or getting it to work like you or I would.

    I hope this helps somebody, because I learned the hard way. Otherwise, Ford and Mazda made a pretty good Mercury, that we hope to enjoy for a few more years.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Actually it doesn't matter what car it is, parking it for a long period, especially outside has detrimental impact on brakes. I had parked my F350 outside for one month and seized all the calipers, at least I thought it was the calipers, it turned out to happen again, and this time I found it was the pads themselves that caused the problem, they expanded from rust and they were seized in the slides. After driving it a while I noticed the brakes were getting hot then the rotors all warped. Most likely the pads were the main reason, and I highly doubt the parking brake would put enough pressure on a cast iron rotor to warp it. Most likely it was the pads that did the damage, you may have inadvertently applied the parking brake while the rotors were hot, and left it long enough for cementite to build up, which is what really causes rotor "warpage". It takes a LOT to actually warped a disk, and 95% of all cases of warpage are really cementite deposits from hot pads.

    I'll trade your rear rotors on the Merc for the rears on my dually! ;)

    Some interesting reading if interested. Rotor warpage myth
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The issue with rotor warpping is nothing new. All manufacturers with few exceptions put rotors on their vehicles that barely pass muster in terms of safety/durability. I had a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD prior to owning my 2010 Milan Premier and at 42K miles replaced all of the rotors. I learned that resurfacing them was not a solution because they would warp even faster under normal usage, in other words, they had barely enough metal on them to be resurfaced once.

    I purchased some high performance rotors that were cross drilled and slotted along with Hawk pads. The price of these parts turned out to be cheaper than OEM parts at the dealer. Stopping performance was significantly better and at 33K miles I had more pad left than the OEM pads had at the same mileage. Also, the rotors did not warp.

    When the OEM rotors and pads wear out, I will install similar rotors and pads on this car as I had on the Jeep.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    First let me clarify that I love my new 2010 I-4 Mercury Milan and am regularly impressed by the excellent engineering foresight the design and production team displayed. So this is not a criticism rather a question about a minor annoyance which is new to me as a car owner.

    OK, truly minor. Have I set it up well enough? I love the car and have no substantive criticisms. It may be the best engineered and coordinated car I ever owned.

    When I drive in light or moderate rain at either highway or residential speed if I keep the driver's window open 2-3-4inches (as I am wont to do), a significant drippage begins top of the wilndow line into the car onto the armrest and (this is the reason I am curious) onto the switchgear for the door and windows on the armrest. Since there is no abnormality on examination of the door gasket or seal or alignment, I assume that it is related to the roof design (with or without a ridge, etc.) which choice likely is most determined by aerodynamic considerations regarding wind resistance and lift. Nonetheless it appears that this roof design allows water to run off the roof and fall into the car from the top of the window opening.
    Have others found this true? There are many simple solutions but first I want to know if "everybody has this" as would be expected if it were intrinsic to the design of the roof and door housing. If nobody has this, I will have to try harder to find a defect in my particular car which is not intrinsic to all 2010 Milans and Fusions. I'm interested.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 571
    I have not had a vehicle in a good number of years that didn't do what your Milan is doing. Since the manufacturers removed the rain gutters from the roof in the name of style and aerodynamics they all leaked as yours does. I am presently driving a Ford Edge and the rain will run in as you describe. A normal occurrence for this day and age,
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,040
    Doctor, doctor - it hurts when I do this.........

  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Going way back, I had this problem with my 1992 Crown Vic. Problem solver is to install the window ventshades that stick on the doors and allow you to have the window open a few inches and not get all wet. Drawback is it cuts down on your cars COD, but whats a little drag when you want fresh air.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    Thank you acdii, I am considering adding a drivers side shield of that sort. I do like the fresh, unprocessed air. I find Akirby's humor a little dry for such a wet problem but appreciate it none the less. Now only if I could construct an antigravity shield that was flexible and could be attached to the roof near the driver's side...then I could.... Actually I think the windshield wiper toss adds to the problem which is why it is less noticeable when it is only lightly raining. I consider it a tribute to the design engineers that I have to search for such minor issues to serve a kindling to keep this thread alive from time to time. Great car.
  • Vent Shades sound like a great solution to your issue, pod.
  • I cannot turn the radio off or change stations,it is stuck,nothing works,it only plays the station it is on.
    I disconnected the battery ground cable to reset the radio but still won't work.
    Any suggestions ?
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Sounds like your Sync is sunk.

    Since you already removed the ground, provided you left it disconnected for a few minutes, the next step is bring it in. There are no repairs for radios, just replacements.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    I post here because I own a Milan which, relatively speaking is a quiet car. My question is a general one. NVH is an issue in most cars. Honda uniformly gets panned on this aspect of their cars. For the engineers out there: is it possible to have microphone pickups in the wheel wells which send a composite signal to an amplifier which plays them back out of phase through the radio somewhat along the lines of noise cancelling earphones. It wouldn't eliminate all the noise, even theoretically, since resonances and structural vibrations would still be present but it may eliminate the tire, wheel well noises which seem dominant. A crazy idea? The cancel signal could be played without interfering with the music on the radio. Since there are smart engineers in the industry I expect this will no help but I'm interested in hearing opinions.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,040
    I thought I read that Lincoln is doing exactly that with their new generation vehicles but I don't have a link.
  • acdiiacdii Posts: 753
    Anything can be done, it boils down to cost. What would it cost to add 4 weather proof mikes, and a bose type noise canceling system? It's like the BLIS, you dont see it in all their cars, even though it is a very good system. You don't see adaptive cruise control in all cars, only top end ones, mainly due to the cost. I think something like what you ask would fall somewhere along those lines of top end cars.
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