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Cabover Camper Chat
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I'll put pics of my new truck on soon, right now it's a little plain, to say the least. The URL is
http://vofm.home.att.net
For sure, I'll be getting the sway bar, & the air bags, but not too sure of the Hellwig. Would Hotchkiss be a better choice, ignoring the expense?
Going to be gone a couple of days.. Headed to Reno to see the "River Dance" at the El Dorado. My timing is bad though, snow storm moving in Sunday night & Monday, the day we're returning home. I do have front wheel drive with snow tires though, so I feel pretty secure. Chains also of course. Where's my truck when I need it? Talk to you on my return.
Gary-
You mentioned the passlock security system but not the basic alarm so I don't know if you are aware of it. The truck comes with a "content" alarm which honks the horn if a door is opened without the key or remote. It's a minimum alarm to be sure but is better than nothing.
Vince, thanks for the web info. It's just a matter of me not be so lazy and playing around with it a little.
I discovered the ease of opening the sliding rear window in my last truck when I locked myself out. It took about 10 seconds with a butter knife and no damage was done to the window. It didn't deter me from getting the slider on the new truck. If someone wants to steal your $30,000 truck, a $100 broken window won't likely be a deterrent. They can replace a piece of the slider window glass even cheaper, so I'm not sure a rod will be much of deterrent.
I'd still recommend that you invest in a Club, even if you do get a security system. They're only about $30 or $40. The benefit of the Club is that they are highly visible. Often that is all the deterrent a thief needs. Why waste time on a truck with the Club when they get another truck just like it in the next parking lot that doesn't have the Club.
As far as a bar blocking the sliding window goes, it will help keep out some kids. Nothing will stop the pro who want your truck; NOTHING. Every level of security added simply reduces the number of people who can get into your truck. And a couple of kids (or a transient sleeping in your cab) can make a terrible mess without stealing your truck. A small bar to keep the window from sliding will keep them out at very little cost. Just be sure to wrap a piece of tape around it and leave at 'tail' sticking up so you can pull it out when you want to open the window.
I still don't have much good to say about the Helwig bar. The mounting is poor (but improved according to Robert Sayre) and the fit of the bar is not much better (interference at the driver's side shock mount). I would suggest the Hotchkiss, but it is $$.
Yes I would like the website for IED or IAD to check them out.
Mike
I don't think my life will be complete until I see the Lights.
Mike
Mike, the stabilizer bar company is IPD, the web site is
http://www.ipdusa.com/suspension/suvs__vans___pickups.html
They still only show the 98 ($255 for 1" rear) but you should call them. JC Whitney also sells a no name bar, I remember seeing it in their catalog. You must have seen it too when you were looking for the Hellwig. By the way, I sent Hellwig an e-mail and they said the parts will be sent soon.
On a different subject, I received a set of Catch All floor mats that I ordered from R&D
http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/rd/
on the web (nice people, good $) and I really like them. They are pricy at $70/set but by far the best design I've seen because they cover 100% of the floor and half way up the center hump where my muddy foot rests. They look good because of the matching carpet but you can still hose them off.
I'm going to order a Tuffliner bed liner in the next few days. Brutus, I noticed you have a Line-X in your truck. I'm sure you like it but I have a question. Have you ever carried a washer or refrigerator, not in a box? If so, does the liner make it harder? Reason I ask is from the discussions here I see that the spray-ins keep things from sliding which is usually good except when you have a 200lb fridge with little metal feet that you are trying to maneuver into a corner of the bed. In that case I don't lift, I slide. Any opinions?
When I was researching auto alarm systems several years ago, I came across an article that included advice given by one of the nation's top Corvette thieves. Before finally getting caught, he had successfully stolen an unbelievable number of 'Vettes. As part of his sentencing, he was required to advise auto manufactures on how to better design anti-theft systems.
In the article he said only two things ever stopped him from stealing a car. If he saw that the 'Vette had a steering collar lock, he moved on to the next one. He said it just took too long to bust through them. These are the locks that completely cover your steering column and/or ignition switch in a steel, locked case. You can get steering collar locks for most vehicles these days. The other thing that sometimes stumped him was a well hidden ignition cut-off switch. Even then, if he really wanted the car, he said he just towed it off!
As far as alarms, he said most were easy to bypass. He discussed just one of many tricks he used with 'Vettes that had alarms: he walked by the target 'Vette at 4am one night and slapped the side, triggering the alarm. Owner wakes up, checks things out, goes to bed. Next night, thief slaps 'Vette at 3am. Owner wakes up, goes through same routine. Next night, thief slaps 'Vette at 5:15am. Now miffed, owner wakes up, goes through routine again. Fourth night, thief slaps 'Vette - but this time, no alarm! Owner disarmed due to annoying early-morning false alarms. Thief steals 'Vette.
Since reading that article, I add a steering collar lock and ignition cut-off switch to slow down the determined thief, and a fake, flashing LED light to deter the casual, teenager thief. These items end false triggers given by expensive alarms, and are a step up from the false sense of security given by Club-type devises.
-GvMeLbrty
I had the under-bed Tuffliner installed in my new Dodge last week, and it's great. The Tuffliner has the wider sections on the floor that match the grooves of the truck's bed, so you don't have the "waffle" pattern of some of the other bedliners. Also, Tuffliner now mixes a "rubber" ingredient in with their plastic, so the bedliner is not really slippery. I had the bed filled with soapy water last week after washing the truck, abd tried to slide around in the bed, but could not. However, when loading a bunch of boxes, they moved on the liner a lot easier than my friend's truck with the Line-X.
Also, the Tuffliner has the slots in the sides to fit 2x4's, so you can create either a divider to help hold items in place, or a "platform", that you can place 4x8 sheet stock on, and still have room underneath for 2x4's, etc.
My dealer had a 1/4" thick closed-cell foam pad they advertised prevents the bedliner from scratching the paint. It costs about $28, and came with a five-year guarantee. For $28, I figured I would give it a try. When I pull the liner out in 5 years, I'll let you know how the bed looks.
Cost on the liner was $149, with another $20 to install, plus the pad ($20) and taxes.
I went with the under-bed liner, since I plan to add a cap soon. I purchased a bed-rail protector kit from J.C. Whitney. This kit is self-adhesive rubber, about 3 3/4" wide and 16 feet long. It installed pretty easily, and was simple to trim to fit with an X-Acto knife. Looks facory-installed; almost as pretty as the Ford bed protectors.
Hope this didn't run on too long. I have a LOT more to add about trucks and campers, and will do so in the near future. In the meantime, maybe you'd like to see what I have done. Check out my truck and camper at http://users.erols.com/ahollow/dodgeram/
Thanks for reading!
Also, the chrome buttons kind of match the chrome bumper and blend in. A bumper should only cost $300 to replace, vs. $$$$ worth of sheetmetal and paint repairs necessary to "fix" a hole in the side of the bed.
I have used the bumper mount on my last two trucks and over 3 years now, and strongly recommend it over the sheetmetal mount.
Just my opinion. Thanks!
Dodge rates your truck to carry a max payload of 1560lbs. Lance says your camper weighs 1935lbs. Add two people, gas, AC, water, food, clothes, etc, and you have to be about 1000lbs over the trucks capacity.
In my case, my truck has a 2000lb capacity and wehave a 1200lb camper. Myself, my wife, gas, food water, AC, clothers, etc. weigh 900lbs; and we pack light!!
It looks like you need a 3/4 ton truck for that camper.
Mike
How do you like the air bags? Do you notice much of a difference when riding empty without the camper?
When you tow, what size hitch are you using. I'm thinking I'm going to have to go with a Class V, but my camper is a 10'11", so it sticks out about three feet. I plan to ask around this winter. I'm starting to see quite a few large slide-in campers with 2-4 vehicle snow machine trailers in tow.
Long story on why 1500 vs. 2500, I'll save that for another day. My old truck was a Ford F150 ext cab 4x4 SB that carried this camper for 3 years. The air bags were definitely a requirement. With only 10 lbs in the bags when running empty, there is no difference or effect on the truck's stock handling. They really come in handy for those occasional heavy loads, since once you buy a truck, everyone is your friend.
As to the weight issue, I know I'm over. I have been trying to get to a weigh station while empty, then loaded, to get some specs. This may not happen till Spring, but I'll post once I have them. I also figure I'm pushing over 1000 lbs past the 6600 GVWR sticker, but you can't tell this by driving the truck. The handling and pickup is excellent, especially compared to my older truck. The 5.9 and 3.92 rear really help in this case.
I do understand the extra stress on the truck components, and will submit my dissertation on why I have no problem with this in the future. (Hint: axle weight vs. GVWR)
As to towing, I have a Class III hitch with a custom extension welded up. It is 2" x 12" solid stock, with the 5/8" hole for the receiver hookup. Welded onto it is a 2 1/2" tube approx. 24" long, with the hitch bar and ball welded on, instead of pinned. This helped eliminate some of the free-play in the set-up. I can stand and bounce all my 200 lbs on this, and not detect any flex in the bar or the receiver, and my trailer tongue weight is only 100 lbs, so I have no problem with this. PS: Safety chain brackets were welded on for both the truck hookup, and the boat hookup.
Brutus, for your rig I agree with the Class V receiver from Reese. This has a 2 1/2" receiver, and a custom extension that allows it to extend out to 3 different positions, depending on the length of your camper overhang. They are great! If you can get a Lance catalog, you'll see they recommend them for all trucks while towing and using a Lance camper. This hitch also does not require any connection to the extended camper; it is just so strong extended out from the truck.
Thanks!
The older Chevy's were known to have weak steering columns around the ignition switch. A good wack and away you go. My dad's 86 (?) full size Blazer was stolen this way, that's when I learned about it. The column collar would have prevented it.
I see we think alike. I also choose the Tuffliner due to the floor design. I have a generic liner in my old truck and I don't like those little ridges. They also rip the metal molding off the bottom of my Lance if I don't put a board down first. I ordered an under-rail version today from a place in Arizona. That is the closest distributor Tuffliner has to CA. They said they lower their price for CA people to offset shipping. It has to come by truck which runs around $70 and the total came to $205 (LB). I didn't realize they were only $140 anyway. The Penda and others run $180-200 so I thought it was reasonable.
My only concern with the design is that it could trap water underneath and promote rust over time. The corrugated ones let more air under. What do you think? I would like to get one of those pads also. How does it affect the fit? Does it prevent the liner from really fitting down in the grooves of the bed?
Your rig looks great. When I saw it my first thought was "what the heck is he using to keep that truck level?" No way a 1/2 ton could hold that camper so gracefully. As I read down your list I saw the light. I have the Air Lift version of the bags on mine but I've yet to put the camper on. The compressor kit I bought has pressure switches that kick on the compressor to keep a minimum of 5psi in the bags. They say that under-inflation is the #1 cause of failure. Brutus, I can't feel any no-load ride difference with 5psi bags versus no bags. ahollowell, if you decide to install an on-board compressor the Air Ride kit works well and runs about $170 vs. the Firestone heavy duty kit with a tank at about $350.
So I'm going to go to the camper dealer and buy the mounts and will put them on myself. They quoted $80 for the set, that sounds really high for a few brackets. Hopefully the lady was mistaken. I'll need longer shafts for the turnbuckle too. Thanks for your opinion, it confirmed my feelings.
The pad is closed-cell foam approx 1/4" thick, and covers the whole floor and up the wheelhousings. When first installed, walking on the bed felt like walking on thick shag carpeting, but as I added weight (the camper, boxes, etc) the bedliner seems to have molded really nice to the bed floor. I wouldn't worry about rust. It would take many years of sitting water to rust through a bed, and with the metal used in the newer trucks, I expect they will almost never rust through. Surface rust may form, but it is easily sanded off, and the bed can be repainted to match the truck, or coated with Rustoleum to prevent further surface rust. This is what I did with my 1990 Ford. There was no rust pitting anywhere, just light surface rust where the paint had been scratched all the way through.
The brackets, including the chrome buttons, cost me $101 from my dealer. I noticed them on sale from Camping World for $67 just after I installed the set from the dealer. Oh, well. My new turnbuckle shafts cost $10 each (12" long) from the dealer, also.
When I looked at the Lance in late 1996, the Shortbed model did not have a bumper, and required the folding steps, similar to what you use. I was at a Camper show looking at all the Lance models, and asked the dealer why they could not put the bumper and step on the shortbed model, since it looked like it would bolt right up. Well, the dealer called the factory right from the show floor, and told them what I wanted. The factory called me back a few days later and stated they looked into it, and would be willing to do it for me. By the time I ordered my camper, Lance had made the rear bumper and step standard on the shortbed. I'm glad to see Lance pays attention to it's customers.
I'll try to help answer some of your questions. On the use of the refrig, mine is a three-way. I plug into AC power the night before I travel to get the refrig nice and cold. I then change to 12V while driving. Once at the campsite, I change to propane and stay that way for the rest of the trip. I have a 5lb. propane tank, and have filled it once in 3 years. I use the refrigerator all day every Saturday of the summer, plus one week straight camping. This also includes the times I've used the propane for cooking and heat. Propane will go a long way!
As to the battery, most campers have a self-contained battery to run the camper lights, heater blower, radio, etc. When the camper AC is plugged in, it helps to recharge the battery. First thing you want to do is install a battery isolator into your truck. This basically allows the alternator to charge two batteries while the truck is running, but only drain one battery for the camper, and not affect the truck's capability of starting again. This way, your camper battery will charge while you are driving, and discharge while you are camping. Worst case if you run down the camper battery is that you'll just have to start the truck and let the camper battery charge back up for an hour or so. Please be considerate of your camping neighbors, the noise or exhaust of the truck may be a problem.
Now, how do we run a microwave or Mr. Coffee from a 12V battery? We could spend a whole chapter on this, but I'll try to be brief. We use a power inverter. This device basically takes the straight 12V battery power and converts it into a modified sine wave at 110VAC, allowing your electrical appliances to work. If you wish to run a microwave, you'll need a 1500W inverter. These can run from $500 to $1500 depending on the type of sine wave you need. If you use computer equipment, TV's and electric motors you'll end up needing the more expensive true sine wave output units. Careful, though, since any power convertwer will drain your battery pretty quickly.
Hope I answered some of your questions.
Sorry I ran on for so long.
In Alaska, people sometimes run their furnaces at night. Although furnaces operate on propane, the blowers need the battery, so extended use of the furnace can drain the battery depending how cold it is. On one of my first camping trips, a switch on my furnace broke, so only cool air blew out. Since this didn't warm the camper, the blower kept running all night because the temp never hit the thermostat setting. My battery drained overnight. I awoke early in the morning to the sound of my CO2 detector going off. I couldn't start the generator because the battery was completely drained. Of course, the remedy was to start the truck and then I was able to crank the generator. The switch was replaced under warranty and all was well.
The frig can drain your battery pretty quick also, so it's important to remember to switch from battery to propane when you arrive at your destination. I know of several people who forgot to do this and drained their battery. When I drained my battery, my frig clicked off also, even though it was running on propane. Most things that use propane still need an ignition of some sort to work. When the frig needs to turn on, it will use the battery to start the propane. The drain on the battery to do this function is almost non-existent, but if your battery is completely dead, the frig won't work. Same for the hot water heater.
Next month, I'm going to drive out of town 90 minutes or so and see how the snowmobilers use their campers. When it is 0-25 degrees outside, I can imagine that the furnace is on quite a bit. I've heard that some people run their generators all weekend. If everyone is running their generators all night, nobody would be annoyed. Most of the snowmobile places usually have large staging areas where people can spread out.
I've have also I've also heard that some people have super batteries that last longer than the average battery. Personally, I plan to eventually get a second camper battery so I have two that will work in tandem, rather than one.
I plan to do quite a bit of winter camping next year. I'm shopping for snowmobiles (I'm leaning towards a Polaris RMK, although I'm taking a good look at the Yamaha Mountain Max and the Ski-Doo Summit....not as impressed with the Arctic Cat Powder Special) and plan to buy next Spring or Summer when prices drop after the season. That is another reason I'm looking into the hitch issue. I'm already planning to get the air bags.
A single good deep cycle battery can carry you through about 3 days of typical use including lights and fan forced furnace without running the engine at all. This of course varies a lot depending on your particular use patterns. I run with 2 batteries in parallel to extend that period and/or allow me to waste power without worry. As mentioned above, you MUST isolate the truck battery from the camper or I guarantee you will be standing in front of your truck in the morning with jumper cables in your hand (voice of experience). You can use a solid state (diode) isolator or a mechanical relay.
ahollowell, that's a pretty amazing propane tank you have: 5 lbs in 3 years??? I have 2 tanks and fill them at least once per season (5 gallons each = 20 pounds each is the correct measure I believe). I run the fridge only on propane and use the heater freely. In any case propane does go a long way.
I almost never carried the jacks because they are too much hassle to set up just for stabilizing and the tripod bases had to be carried inside the camper. If you don't mind the extra cost and weight, you should consider permanent jacks mounted on the corners. They make hydraulic, mechanical, or even electric ones now.
The bar is unchanged, the rest of the kit is unchanged, just the frame mounts are updated.
So, the tight fit/interference at the driver's side shock mount is still a problem. To my eye, if the bar were 2-3" wider with a different bend on the driver's side it would fit better.
All that said, the bar, with all its installation problems, seems to work acceptably.
Mike
No doubt, the weak link with the Club is the steering column. A hacksaw through the steering wheel will easily remove it. However, the trucks that are being stolen the most are high in availabilty. If there are three similar trucks in the parking lot and one has the Club, chances are that the thief will try to take one of the other two. Not because they can't remove the Club. It's just another thing to hassle with and to repair or cover up.
Now for the original jack system: The camper has a steel (yes steel!) frame underneath with three 1-1/2" dia. receivers(or holes) on each side. The lift system consisted of four poles and two ratcheting cranks. The four poles would stand at each corner and an arm would go into the holes. The crank would sit in the third hole inserted located in the center of the side. Cables ran from the crank to the legs so that as you cranked, both legs on that side would raise or lower. The setup is repeated on the other side.
I have thought of adding permanent jacks, but it is such a small and simple camper that packing up to move takes seconds. Also, since I only laid out $650 for it in the first place, another $500 isn't too appealing. Finally, at our favorite campground, we just boat into town and walk from there, so the truck hardly moves. Like I said, I would like the cable system to restore the original package, I am not too worried about stabilizing, leveling, removal, etc.
Thanks a million for the response, talk to you later.
I know almost nothing about pickup trucks.
However, I'm very keen on getting an older one with
a camper on the back. This seems to be a great
combo - use the truck in the winter or whenever
something needs hauling - and stick the camper on
the back whenever we want to go camping. Works
better for me than buying an older motorhome.
Every day in the local paper I see trucks with
campers ranging in price from $2k on up. I guess
I'd pay up to about $5k for a good, reliable, low
miles truck and non-leaky camper.
However, I need something that gets decent fuel
milage - say 15 to 20 mpg, without the camper on
the back, 10 to 15 mpg with the camper. I also
need a big enough cab to stick 2 kids in the back.
The sliding window is neccessary, too.
Any recommendations for a 70's - 80's truck than
may meet my needs? Any particular engine to look
out for?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jon
I suppose you could find a "low miles" truck for $5k due to the age alone but I doubt they come around too often. More likely you could do well with one that's had the engine and trans rebuilt recently. Try to stay in the 80s at least. First thing when you get one, take it in and have all the hoses and belts replaced. It's cheap insurance on an old vehicle.
For the camper, there are plenty of old ones for sale cheap because the value really drops. For example look at the post from blawless, $650 for a very clean old camper. I sold my old one ('71) for $1100 and it was in great shape. Watch out for one problem though. Some older campers don't fit on the last body style Chevy, or the current Dodge & F-150 because they tapered the rear of the bed so it is narrower at the back than the front. The problem campers have stick-out sections behind the wheel well area. These are used for interior storage or what ever, but they hit the sides of those Chevys. Campers which are the same width on the bottom for the entire length are fine. Or the others will fit on a Ford or old Dodge.
Too bad you need the back seat. My Ford is for sale and it's perfect otherwise. 100% ready for a camper to be plopped on. Sure you wouldn't want to squeeze a little?
now.
http://vofm.home.att.net/chevy1.jpg
http://vofm.home.att.net/chevy2.jpg
http://vofm.home.att.net/chevy3.jpg
http://vofm.home.att.net/chevy4.jpg
http://vofm.home.att.net/chevy5.jpg
I'll be changing the location evenutally if AT&T
can ever get their cable modem system up again.
As for those mpg figures in an older truck, it's just not going to happen. The new trucks get better mpg than the older trucks, and it's tough to get that kind of mpg with them. My 92 F-250HD 4x4 with the 351 only got 14-15 on the hwy. You might be able to get a truck for the $5,000 price range you're looking at, but it might require some elbow grease. I sold my 92 for $8,500 and the guy got a great deal. I just didn't want to hassle with selling it. I was really just looking for trade-in value. My truck wasn't even halfway through it's useful life before major maintenance.
I doubt you will find an older truck that can come close.
And the only reason I get 15+ with the camper is my camper is a popup camper and is only 6" high over the cab in the down position. Otherwise I'd be getting 12-13. As for kids riding in the back - its generally illegal unless they have seatbelts on, and it is unsafe in the event of an accident. Look at the surfaces inside the cab, smooth-rounded-padded, look at the surfaces in the camper, sharp-squared-unforgiving. I wouldn't want to risk anyone I cared about in the camper while moving.
Mike
Still no Silverado on this end. It was shipped out from Pontiac, to Milpitas, Ca. on the 5th, so it's either sitting in Milpitas, or at the dealers, & they haven't called. Will be on the phone first thing in the a m. Will keep you posted. I've been out of town, so need to catch up on the postings. Vince, to refresh my memory, are you getting any type of bed liner? As I've mentioned earlier, I've been thinking of the Line-X, but may go with a heavy rubber mat.Undecided.
First things first...I NEEEEEED a truck!!
Gary-
The truck: 86k mi., 3/4 ton suspension, long bed, 4spd manual, 305 ci (5.0L) engine.
The camper: 1969 8.5ft Travel Queen, beautiful interior, icebox, stove, oven, 40 gal H2O tank, private porta-potti, sleeps 5.
Looking at this setup, you may think, "nothing special", but the important thing here is that absolutely everything works perfectly on both rigs.
I buy what I can afford and take care of it like it was new. Since I have no AC, no auto, no power windows or locks, I am allowed more payload. I carry my camper and tow a 16.5 foot ski boat. On the freeway, I can pull out a whopping 60 mph! I get 10-11 mpg with or without my camper. I have a buddy from work who is selling a fantastic 1979 Ford F150 with a 460, auto, extended cab and beautiful paint for $5,500.
If you could find something like that and an inexpensive camper like mine, I think you would be glad you spent the extra $1,000. I don't really have any advice, the best I can do is tell you the way thing are in my world.
Good luck, and I hope you are successful in your search, my wife and I are extremely happy with ours.
Gary-
Over the weekend I stopped by the local Lance camper agent. Some nice units there. Checked out the agents 93 Dodge 250 w/ Cummins turbo diesel. When he told me what kind of milage he gets and how those engines run and run, everything started to make sense.
Cummins diesel trucks priced even below 10k seem very hard to come by. I guess I'll have to wait a few years. But boy, what a nice unit that would make.
An alternative for you to consider would be a smaller vehicle, maybe an SUV, and a tent trailer. Those aren't a bad compromise for a minimum rig.
So your truck is in my backyard. I live in Milpitas. I'll run down to the train yard and tell them to get a move on for you. The pictures were taken in the hills behind my house. Milpitas is on the edge of Silicon Valley so we have the foothills along one border. The lake is Calaveras reservoir. There's no camping there but it is a nice drive to wander through the back hills. I grew up in Livermore (your average little cattle ranching and nuclear weapons development town), not too far from here, and spent many a hour tripping through very similar terrain.
I haven't put the camper on the truck yet but I'm getting close. Only a few tasks left. I might post pics but it's going to look stupid because the camper has light & dark brown and black trim and the truck is silver. Maybe I'll have the trim repainted. I'll post a few pics of my old rigs, that'll give us something to blab about for awhile.
Anyway I do have something useful to say. The Happyjac camper mount system now has an optional stabilizer bar for the front. It is a rectangular steel tube that goes across the front inside of the bed and bolts on each end to the inner plate of the front brackets. They recommend it for heavier campers, which means you. The man-who-knows at the camper dealer strongly recommended it so I bought it. It is not meant to be used with a bedliner, they compete for the same space. They don't recommend bedliners anyway because the camper slides around too much. So this is a reason for you to not buy a drop-in liner. The bar would fit fine with a spray-in. For your use I would recommend a spray-in or a simple rubber mat.
I am going to force fit the bar and the liner in place. It takes a little doing but can be done with some modification of each.
Also, does Sunline still make truck campers, I don't think so, would parts be a big concern. Thanks
Dakota SLT, 3.9 V6, club cab, air, power windows, door locks, 5sp, camper shell, carpet kit,custom wheels, 8ft slide in cab over camper. 115.000 mi
$7000 with camper, $6000 W/O. Plus it will fit in your garage. Gets 20mpg empty, 10 mpg with camper.
John
I copied all your areas to check on the camper and will take it with me Sat.
Thanks again.
The 3/4 ton Silverado should handle that size camper and boat with ease. Those of you who have the Silverados, what size engine did you opt for, the 5.3 or the 6.0?
Just out of curiousity, does anyone know how much a Class V Reese hitch cost (installed price preferably). This snowmobile shopping is getting pricey when you factor in the extras like the bigger hitch, the tow trailer, the snowmobile cover, etc. Even the helmets cost more than $100. Good thing I'm waiting until the Spring. I'll probably end up having $10,000 in this purchase before it is all over.
And yes, in a really heavy downpour you can't believe how loud it gets. It's totally fun because you are warm and dry. Very cozy. With normal rain it's not too bad.