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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dryodt123dryodt123 Member Posts: 4
    oagr,

    I discovered the same thing with a 1986 4Runner after a prolonged play session in the mud and water. Make this note to yourself as well. 1983 Supras aren't good splash toys either. In my wilder days I caught an unsuspecting bus rider after a rain in San Antonio left a large pool of water near his stop. I got to pay a 225.00 stupid tax for cooking the altenator and being ornery.

    Dr yodt
  • lpeterslpeters Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how I can reset the "maintenance required" dash light on a 2005 Toyota Tundra?
  • cgrcgr Member Posts: 2
    I currently have a new 05 Tundra Double Cab 4X4 on order and it is in "Status A" at the plant. What is status "A" and how long should I expect until it is completed manufacturing and shipped to my dealership in Indianapolis?
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    I have checked my odometer several times now with a GPS. On a 50 mile trip the GPS showes 50 miles, the Tundra shows 48.5. Has anyone else checked the odometer? I need to check it at longer distances than 50 to 100 miles, but it looks to be off the same amount so far. Ron
  • dssnuffydssnuffy Member Posts: 39
    Do you still have the factory wheels and tires? Changing wheel diameter will affect the odometer reading. Also try checking the tire pressure and make sure it matches the recommended pressure. David S
  • disappointed10disappointed10 Member Posts: 2
    Bought an 05 Tundra double cab. Owned it for 1 month and transmission had to be replaced! Also have a grinding/whistling sound. Of course, problems aren't solved on the first visit. As of now, truck was in shop for 10 days and I've owned it for 1 mth. 2 weeks. If I could do it over again, I would have bought a Dodge and saved alot of money. From what I understand, both are assembled in America!
    :lemon:
  • disappointed10disappointed10 Member Posts: 2
    Problems;
    1. Auto transmission not engaging intermittently. Solution-got new transmission after 3 visits to dealer, and a total of 8 days in the shop. The fact that the check engine light came on, it wouldn't shift into fourth, slipped out of third, and had to be towed in finally caught their attention.
    2. On-going problem: Have a whistling/whine sound. Occurs like clockwork @ 2500 rpm and above. Most noticeable when punching it. Shop replaced TRD muffler gasket, fan clutch, belt, and now claims problem is in TRD exhaust. A couple of visits later, and I still have the :cry: problem. PLEASE HELP before I gut it and sell it for parts! :mad:
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    Yep, I have the factory tires and wheels. The pressure is right and everything looks ok. The odometer is just a little off, and I have checked it with two GPS units. Ron
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    I'm looking at trading in my '99 Exploder on a '00 Tundra SR5 4x2 access cab with 57k miles on it. My Ford is a 4x4, but I haven't had much luck with it. It's let me down several times in wet grass, so I don't think a 4x2 would be much worse. Also the gas mileage on the Ford is the same as the 4x2 V8 Tundra.

    My question is, what problems have been known for these trucks? I've seen transmission and brake issues named. Anything else? I noticed some rust on the one I'm looking at, is that common thing as well? Inside the front bumper on either side of the license plate bracket there is rust. I also noticed some rust stains (or else red mud stains) on the carpet inside the truck. The dealer says it's a Toyota Certified used truck, but it looks to me a lot like a flood victim.

    I was very impressed with the ride and drive of the truck. The price they want is $15,990. Carfax showed 2 previous owners, but was clean. Any advice? Thanks,
    idntnvu
  • luvmytundraluvmytundra Member Posts: 1
    You won't be sorry. I have a 2002 Tundra I bought new, now has 115K Two problems to look for. Brakes: You must go to a vented style rotor with metal pads to stop the shutter.

    Second, "Check Engine Light" for the oxygen sensors. The dealership says there are 2 of them, but I found 4, two on each exhaust. There is a recall on them but I missed it by mileage the first time and then again when Toyota extended it to 60,000 miles. About $450 to change both, but talking to others they agree there are 4. My light came on over 20,000 miles ago, I'm assuming it is one of the downstream sensors because my mile is still 16 with the K&N air filter. (another MUST).

    Good luck.
  • mrwilsonmrwilson Member Posts: 2
    Hello I have a 2002 Tundra I bought new. The brake pedal would pulse sate when braking hard or trying to stop going downhill. The dealer replaced the complete front brakes system ( I saw the bill over $1000) with larger one. I had to wait about a month for the brake kit to come in. The service rep. said they only get 2 kits a week and they only replace them if a customer complains.
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    do not be to happy that you received the new brakes it is not a blessing. I also have an 02 at about 17,000 same thing started happening to mine. Took it to clearwater toyo at about 33,000 and they stated the brakes were to small for the truck replaced all the calipers turned the drums,new backing plates, hardware, etc.etc.etc. now at 63,000 same problem. when i replace the brakes I am going to try ceramic rotors,those racing type pads. the problem I feel is that the rotors heat up to much. you can recut the rotors and problem goes away for awhile. You try what works for you but I'm going a different route next time.
  • blueskiesrainblueskiesrain Member Posts: 1
    Hoping someone has experience in changing the front corner signal light.

    My Left corner light cover was cracked and I bought a new one.

    The light appears to be anchored by a plastic arm with a philips screw, however, it is not a screw but rather a plastic push pin?

    Before I try to push it up and possibly crack one of the little plastic tabs, I was hoping someone might have a tip for safe and easy removal.

    Thanks.
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    I am driving 2005 double cab Tundra. This is not a major problem, just a very annoying one. Even when sitting still idling, as well as when moving, there is a mild continuous vibration inside the cab. It is most noticeable in the steering wheel and the floor. Is this normal like the toyota technician said or is it a problem with a solution. Please help. I love the truck but can't stand the vibration.
    Thanks so much.
  • lwilliams1lwilliams1 Member Posts: 1
    Good luck. I own a 2004 doble cab Tundra (purchased new in Nov of 2004) now has 4125 miles and holding (for the last month). Started with a vibration which I was told ba the dealership was normal. A month later after the vehicle suddenly darted in the right lane at 70 mph on the interstate; back to the dealership and they replaced the steering rack assembly. Another month passed and the vehicle again darted in the right hand lane. This time they told me everything was normal. I might be a fool, but I am not crazy. They $33,000 vehicle has sat in my garage for the last month and has not moved. Talked to a guy who has a 2005 Lexus, had similar lane switching problems, his was it the ABS getting a bad signal from the computer. They replaces his Lexus (he is worth $50 million); mine still sits, I am not worth anything. I am trying arbitration with Toyota, will keep you informed.
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    Thank you for taking time to respond. This vibration problem is really starting to bother me like a nagging toothache. If I get enough info which refutes the toyota dealerships "this is normal" response, I will use it to try and produce some action on their part. Thanks again
  • sarniastingsarniasting Member Posts: 31
    I have a 2004 dual cab Tundra and do not have any mild vibrations. I cannot beleive any vibration would be normal. The problem lwilliams1 reported has shown up on a few 2004 Siennas. A couple of the Sienna owners are now also afraid to drive their vehicles and it seems to be related to the ABS getting the wrong signal from the ECU computer. I would consider it a serious matter and document everything related to it including dates, times and any conversations with service representatives from Toyota. You might even request your dealership provide you with a test drive in another 2005 Tundra, same model and take the service manager with you and record the differences. I would even go as far as to have the service manager sign a document setting out the differences. Stay on top of the issue as this is not in my humble opion normal. Best of luck.
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    Thank you sarniasting. The more responses like yours, the more leverage I will have in hand when I go back to the dealership.
  • lawncare01lawncare01 Member Posts: 7
  • lawncare01lawncare01 Member Posts: 7
    Sorry, messed up on last post. I have a 05 reg. cab V6 that when you get to 56 mph it makes a droning/exhaust sound that is very anoying. When holding at a steady speed is a constant up and down hmmm,hmmmm, noise. When you ease down on the gas just a little gets a lot louder. Also when I have my trailor hooked up is a lot worse. If you turn the OD off the noise is gone or get past 60 is gone. Dealer said they have had several complaints from other V6 owners but it was normal. Just wanted to ask other V6 owners if yours did this. Dealer called it a harmonic imbalance? Have not driven the truck on a long trip yet but this would get very annoying. Mine also had a AT. Truck has otherwise been fine and gets great gas mileage.
  • merlinknightmerlinknight Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    i have a 2000 tundra 4x4. The problems i have been having are, for one that everyone knows about, is the brakes, They VERY, VERY POOR, putting it politely. The O2 sensors go out. i have had to replace 3 out of the 4 on the truck at around i believe 140$ each. The trans. does not shift correctly. Having to send off the valve body to a performance shop. Cracks in the exhaust manifold. Drive shaft misalignment that causes shaking at certain speeds.
    Bought a toyota because i thought i was buying something that would last. Instead i bought a toyota that has caused me problems. Toyota does not fix anything because they figured out the problems after my truck was out off warranty. TOYOTA DOES NOT CARE. I will not own another TOYOTA! :mad: :lemon:
  • lawncare01lawncare01 Member Posts: 7
    I too, had a 2000. You could turn the brake rotors and balance the tires at least once a week. Also had 2 O2 sensors to go. I know quite a few other folks that had 2000 models with no problems. I still think Toyota builds the best vehicles. Now if my second Tundra has a lot of problems will change my tune. BTW, my 2000 was bought used with high mileage so I dont know how it was driven or taken care of before. Also had the shaking at certain speeds but thought it was the tires, or what dealer blamed it on.
  • fatboy2kfatboy2k Member Posts: 1
    I have owned a 2001 V8 Access Cab gave to a friend and now have a 2004 Double Cab. The 2001 had 3 oxygen sensors go out (1up and 2 downstream), a master cylinder, and I have done a front brake job. I had the rotors turned as they had warped. Toyota has re-imbursed 253.00 for the upstream O2 sensor replacement on a notice I received in the mail. You must have saved all receipts from the work, and there is a mileage stipulation. The truck currently has 112000 on it and looks like it needs rotors turned again. I plan on replacing them with Wagner or Raybestos after market.
    Michelin LTX they stay balanced better than Goodyears and work very well on both trucks here in Texas.
    I have 43000 on the Double Cab and no problems what so ever! Have replaced the tires rims with 20" Hot Wheels and Michelin 55 series LTX.
  • uofm360uofm360 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 Tundra V8 with 30,000 miles on it. I have been hearing that the oxygen sensors may go bad. I am wondering if there was a recall for this or how much does it cost to get them replaced of they go bad. Thanks
  • checkmatecheckmate Member Posts: 5
    I too had the same experience when my truck hit 5000 miles the maintenance light had turned on and bothered me for a while until i read the manual yoou will find it on page 179. it has something to do with your keys being on the ignition. :)
  • checkmatecheckmate Member Posts: 5
    FRIENDS,

    I have an 05 TUNDRA 4x4 the original tires are P265 70 16 and im thinking about changing it to LT 265 75 16. WOULD IT RUB?? i have stock suspension... the only difference is from 70 series to 75 series. and its also a little beafier.. P= passenger and LT= light trucks.

    thanx in advance
  • dano100dano100 Member Posts: 22
    I own a Dbl. Cab (2004) and have not experienced any vibration problems. My 3 minor problems are (1) a squeek from the rear bed area on the passengers side (2) the blower motor on the heater/air conditioning squeals intermittantly (3) the O2 sensor went bad at less than 5,000 miles.
  • checkmatecheckmate Member Posts: 5
    I dont know if i just got lucky or what.....i have been reading the forum for quite sometime now and all i have been seing is mostly negative on the 05 tundras. I dont know if im lucky but i have an 05 TUNDRA DBL cab 4x4 with 5000 mile on it and from my observation is it is perfect for me. no vibration, no cab noise,transmission is flawless even on very cold days, does not stall when u slam on the brakes, good power, O2 sensor is fine, gas mileage is decent, no funny exhaust noise, no bed noise, no shocks malfunctions or noise, engine temp is good, oil pressure is good, i dont know what else to mention but my 05 Tundra is very good. I dont know what kind of driving conditions you guys do but, i drive alot on highways and i dont tow anything. Is that a major actor that my truck is fine??....PLS tell me what to watch for on my truck cause reading all the inputs are scaring me......sometimes im thinking that i should have bought a Nissan Titan cause i go to their forums just for reading purpose, and everybody is very satisfied with their TITANS...
  • checkmatecheckmate Member Posts: 5
    coninuation from #135.

    BUT!!!! i only have one thing that is not good on my 05 TUNDRA, it happened twice now, when i first start it, the starter will stick and keep on turning but it dosent fire up even when i let go of the key...it would keep on turning untill i turn the key to off position and start it again then, shes fine............this ever happen to any of you???? pls let me know

    YOUR KINDNESS AND CONSIDERATION REGARDING THIS MATTER IS HIGHLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    I have about 3000 miles on my 05 DC. Mine is so far a great truck and I am happy with it. I drive it off road a little but that will become more as the hunting season starts. I have a shell on mine and I get 16.5 to 18 miles to the gallon. It depends a lot on my driving with this rig. So far I think it is a great ride. Ron
  • checkmatecheckmate Member Posts: 5
    Ron

    Its good to hear that your truck is working great for you. At 5000 miles, your maintenance light will turn on, its only there remind you its time for oil change. Now if you bring it to the dealer they will reset he light for you, but if you do your own oil change, youll have to open up your manual to page (i believe 179) on how to reset your maint. light. Now just incase this is how you do it. make sure your key is in off position, now press and hold the button in you speedometer mileage while turning the key to ACC position and hold it for 10 o 12 secs. until you see the mileage reads -000000 and then your maint. light is gone and been reseted.

    -mike
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    Your mpg sounds great. I am getting about 13-14 mpg around town, have about 750 miles on the truck so far.
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    I have read the exhaust system is the "vibration culprit" in many instances. If I were to change the exhaust, which would be best. I don't need a performance system. I'd prefer one that is quiet and not too hard on the wallet.

    Thanks for any input.
  • cheapisgoodcheapisgood Member Posts: 16
    I read your messages with interest. I don't have an answer for the "darting at 70 miles an hour" and that one sounds kind of scary. I would take that truck to a really good front end shop and see what they say.

    I have a 2001 Access cab and had a lot of problems with vibration after the truck hit about 30K miles. The only way to solve it without throwing a lot of your money away is as follows:

    1. Load balance the tires (not just a quick spin balance). It costs more, but is worth it.
    2. Have the front end aligned using DJ's Specs. You can find these on Tundrasolutions.com. The standard Toyota alignment specs are not the best and have too large of a margin for error. If you can't figure out the specs, give me your email and I will respond that way." :shades:

    Cheapisgood
  • dbl_cab_05dbl_cab_05 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Tundra Double Cab. This is my 3rd new Toyota. At about 7000 miles, cruising at 2000 rpm my engine light came on. She stalled before I reached the end of the off ramp. Had her towed to the dealer - the next day they ordered me a new engine. That was almost 6 weeks ago and she is still at the dealer waiting for more parts! So far they've ordered a short block, head, part of the intake and other various parts. I don't know the whole list because I haven't got her back yet. 3 pistons on one side have zero compression. They used a scope and saw one of my broken valves resting on the number 6 piston. They gave me a goofy story about a bolt coming loose in the intake near the throttle body. Sounds farfetched for 1 piston but impossible for 3. Anyone else have anything like this happen?
  • srpetersonsrpeterson Member Posts: 6
    My Tundra has 1000 mi. on it and also has a mild vibration and rumble. Dealer has had it 3 times in the last 5 weeks. They claimed it was the exhaust but when driving down the road I can shift it into neutral and I still have the vibration and rumble. They also claim that they have swapped all the axles and driveshafts, re-balanced tires, re-torqued motor mounts and tranny mounts (auto tranny). They now say that they are waiting for headquarters to come-up with a fix. Truck rides nice and is very comfortable, just hate the vibration and rumble.
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    I am thinking the 2005 Tundra was a bad design year or the folks at the assembly plants are not paying attention.
  • phillip2phillip2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 4x4 2005 SR5 Access Cab with VSC/16" HT tires and after trying 4Lo in the snow my left front wheel started to hop and bounce the entire fender...on a moderate grade/pavement/about 5 " snow..what is up? Are there any tricks or problems offroad while using the Tundra's 4x4?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Even on snow, the wheels side-to-side need to "scrub" or scrape in order to do any turning. You didn't describe what you were doing when it was shaking on that side of the truck, but I would guess that you were trying to turn when it happened. If that is the case, there was nothing wrong with the way the truck was working, just that you didn't have enough slippage under the tires for the wheels to be able to slide. Keep in mind that in 4wd, either hi or low, ANY time you turn, there either needs to be slippage under the tires or the tires will scrub as the Front and back set of wheels are forced to have the same number of revolutions and the front needs to travel further in a turn. I hope this helps.

    Ken
  • jnm1jnm1 Member Posts: 7
    I have a Tundra 2WD SR5 noticed all the stories about the snow and was wondering if there is any hidden secrets I can do to make my truck work a little better through the snow besides the original "sandbag way"....thanks for the help and all the other advice...Love it!! Jen ;)
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    This is coming from someone who has lived in Rochester and Buffalo for their whole life and has had experience driving in the conditions common in both cities in RWD, FWD and 4wd vehicles. In a rear wheel drive truck, the most significant thing that you can do to help your ability to drive in snow is get a good set of snow tires. It is an initial investment, but keep in mind you only put half of the miles on your summer tires and the same for the winter tires. So you only replace your tires half as often but have the security of the best tires for both conditions all of the time. Other than good snow tires and being a bit more gentle on the gas, sandbags help somewhat, but you shouldn't have too many troubles.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • tundratoytundratoy Member Posts: 1
    I've owned my 05 Tundra for about a month now, and I've noticed that it has the exact same problem with the engine not starting on the first crank. I'ts happened to me three or four times already and it seems to only occur after the truck has been sitting a while. Other than that, it's been a great truck so far...
  • 2creative2creative Member Posts: 3
    After all the searching, I found someone else have the problem I am having on by 2004 Tundra DBL Cab. I have had my truck in the dealership since Feb 17 with low compression on the left bank. They originally blamed water in the fuel as what cause my problem. Since then I have had the fuel tested at a lab and have proved that conclusion wrong (1.5% water in fuel). I have been through the process with Gulf States Toyota and the Arbitration company denying my claim stating that I did not prove that it was a manufactures problem, just that the water did not cause the problem. Since then I have had my baby towed to another dealership to have them break the engine down.I am now waiting for the next conclusion of what actually caused the problem and if it will be covered under warranty. My truck is less than a year old with all oil changed done on time and with Amsoil Synthetic currently in the truck with only 11,150. I could really use any help that anyone could give to help me prove that this a manufactures problem and not mine. please email 2creative@hotpop.com or call me Sean @ 512-423-3133 CST
  • 2creative2creative Member Posts: 3
    There is a Toyota Service bulletin for a fuel suction tube that needs to be replaced.
  • freightdogsfreightdogs Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 sr5 access cab 2wd v8 automatic with 85000 miles. The trans's overdrive planetaries [non-permissible content removed] the bed on the highway at ~85 miles an hour. Granted I drive fast and commute 100 miles a day BUT
    1) In your experience have you seen or heard of other tundra trans crapping out like this?
    2) get a Reman trans from the dealer or let AAMCO rebuild it?
  • freightdogsfreightdogs Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 sr5 2wd v8 auto tundra with 85000 miles. The exhaust manifolds failed as did the o2 sensors. For those that are unaware - the warranty on emissions system is 90000. So get your truck to the dealer and get that stuff taken care of before it too late. My dealer fixed me up. Then the transmission exploded but thats another topic.....
  • freightdogsfreightdogs Member Posts: 4
    I have that click in the dash too! I have not figured out what is doing it. Anybody find the root cause?
  • freightdogsfreightdogs Member Posts: 4
    Has anybody out there had a dealer put this package (800 bucks) into their truck , and if so did it improve snow handling?
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    Hi,

    The following are copies of several messages off Toyota Solutions forum, hope it helps:

    My Ticking Noise is Gone!

    Our Sequoia had been suffering from that slight ticking noise that's been talked about here. It's the one that appears to be coming from behind the centre console. More audible in cooler weather. Varies with the RPMs and can't be heard outside the vehicle.

    Well I had the truck in for an alignment and rotation on Saturday and I mentioned this noise to them. I also told them what I had read here about it possibly being due to the ground wire from the fuel injector wiring harness transmitting noise thru the firewall. Sequoias are pretty rare around here and they said they hadn't heard of that but would look. So about three hours later they call me and say the truck is ready.

    They moved the ground wire, straightened up some of the wiring in there while they were at it, and added some insulation around the throttle cable. Boom. Zero noise. Not reduced, but gone. Completely. Man, am I one happy puppy right now. All I can hear when I'm driving it is the sweet sound of that V-8.

    BTW, the work wasn't done where I bought the truck (they couldn't hear the sound), it was done at a dealer closer to me (same city), Tony Graham Lexus Toyota. Kudos to them!
    ------------------------------------
    AMAZING!!!! I just moved the ground wire on my '01 Sequoia from the firewall to one of the bolts on the power steering reservior bracket (my ground wire is actually mounted on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine)... started up the engine and NO MORE TICKING SOUND... something that I had been attributing to piston slap since I bought this crazy vehicle. Even took it out on the highway to be sure... all I hear is smooth running Toyota V8 sound now. Best 5-minute investment of time I think I've ever made on any car.

    THANKS!!
    ----------------------------------------------
    It worked!! No more ticking!!! I would never had believed it if I hadn't done it myself. Amazing!! Thank you thank you thank you!!! (If you cant' tell, this was really an anoying little issue for me)
  • txsparxtxsparx Member Posts: 1
    I own a 03 Step-side V8 with about 20k on it and I too have windows that rattle badly. Mine do so when they're between 3/4 inch down from the top until a third of the way down. At half way down they're tight again.
    Took it in and left it with a Toyota dealer in Arlington, Tx for a full day. Got it back at 6 that evening as they closed up. Drove it all of a half mile, hit a road with small bumps along it, windows started rattling just as bad as they ever had.
    A full day wasted with no change at all in the truck.
    I've had a couple of Ford trucks that did the same thing. It's a channel problem. Difference is that the Ford mechanics seemed to knew how to repair it and the Toy mechs didn't.
    There again it may be the dealer. I've bought 6 vehicles from his numerous brand lots here - 2 Fords, 2 Mercury's ( the Lemon Law was enforced on one of them) and 2 Mitsubishi's and I've never, EVER had any luck at all any with any of his service departments. Not once, to the point of where I won't even shop there any longer.
    I didn't purchase my current Toy from there and must have been feelin' my oats that day I took it in. They're less than a half-mile from my office and I thought, "Well, it's only replacing the window channels. The Ford guys had no trouble at all ...."
    Wrong. A waste of time. Shoulda known better.

    Soooo, anyone care to discuss engine lifter clattering/knocking when you punch it ?
This discussion has been closed.