Tundra Impressions

2»

Comments

  • dklossdkloss Member Posts: 22
    I'm sure not all Dodge dealers are as ignorant as I have experienced and on the flip, I'm sure there are morons at Toyota dealers too. I can only speak about my locations, but, because of the Dodge dealers arrogance (I experienced) they lost a paying customer. I liked the Dak's looks , V8 options, stick and more importantly, the size. This was to be my main vehicle for going to work, going to dinner, riding in the pines and hauling some building materials to restore my farmhouse. After Dodge failed to deliver the truck I ordered, I didn't have many options for a "mid-size" truck. I thought the Tundra was too big for my likings, but after my extended test drive I was amazed and forgot I was driving a pickup. SOLD !!! Mid-size, full size, compact, who gives a rats what pigeon hole it fits into...it fits me and that's all that really matters...
  • bud_light_dudebud_light_dude Member Posts: 330
    I agree with you that the two trucks are "close" to the same price, but the Silverado has several options available that the Tundra does not have and is not expected to have any time soon, i.e. Autotrac, Locking diff, on board computer diags, etc. But, admittedly, there are advantages to the Tundra that the Silverado lacks, such as more ground clearance, smoother car-like engine performance, etc.

    The Silverado benefits just outweighed the Tundras benefits "for my use and preference". I would not be ashamed or have a problem one buying a Tundra if my needs were different. Tundra seems to be a great success, even in the first year of production. If they would make it a little bigger on the interior cabin and add some of the features that are important to me persoanally, I would have a hard time choosing between the Silverado and the Tundra.

    The Toyota designers just havn't adhered to the American truck buyer as much as they should. They have admittedly in the past, designed their trucks with the smaller (like the Japanese) driver in mind. That is not meant as a racist remark or slam. It is a known fact that the Japanese are smaller in size than Americans and Toyota has had a hard time realizing the need for bigger interiors for their trucks and cars. Doesn't mean it is a bad vehicle, just not quite there for "all" American drivers.

    I think what you get used to has an important twist on what you will buy also. I drove a Tacoma for 4 years and loved it. Swore I would never buy any other truck. However, I have since been driving the full size Chevy trucks again and I am used to the extra room. It would be extremely hard for me to give up that room again. Same goes for other characteristics of a truck. If you are used to having options like the locking diff and autotrac and bigger horsepowered engines, as well as more engine choices, etc., it is hard to consider the Tundra as a replacement to that truck. Again, this is not saying that the Tundra is too small or inferior in any way, just noting why some may not see it as a viable choice for a truck to meet their needs (or wants as it may also be).

    Tundras are definitely well built trucks.
  • ferris47ferris47 Member Posts: 131
    You know that was the one thing the Tundra did not offer that had me scared. I have owned two other trucks up to this point, a 95 chevy S10 with the 195 HO engine and a Dodge Dakota R/T. Both had gobs of rear wheel power and both had locking rears/limited slip and I swore I would never drive a truck without it. I have also driven numerous other trucks with locking rears. I test drove the Tundra and fell in love with it. Actually quicker than my R/T was as a side note but of course no locking rear. I figured I would take the chance as my other choice the Silverado was having enough quality control problems to scare the hell out of me. So I took the plunge with the Tundra without limited slip. Well I was scared until the first real rains here and I took it out and played with it. I am really impressed. No problems whatsoever. Better then my S10 and almost as good as the R/T, course the R/T had a lot of meat on the road. Probably has to do with the aggressive tread pattern on the tires.

    I am not saying this to sway anybody's opinion, because we all know what opinions are like, I am just trying to provide as unbiased an opinion as I can so anybody who reads this and is looking to buy a truck will have some good first hand info besides, my truck can beat up your truck. That being said. The Tundra is a dream to drive in the weather and as for off road, I have a 2wd so I don't have any business off road and if you have 4 wheel drive you shouldn't need a locker anyway, if you do, you are in pretty bad shape. The only worry I would have not having some kind of limited slip is pulling a boat out of a boat ramp and if I ever get to that point I will let everybody know, honestly, if I went swimming or not.

    Not setting up for a flame or anything, just curious, how has your Silverado treated you? I mean they are nice trucks, I was just a little worried about quality and dealer service.

    Chris
  • barlitzbarlitz Member Posts: 752
    I paid 26000 for my truck,I have an 99 F250 xlt 4x4 4door supercab shortbed,with the 5.4 auto,3.73 limited slip,7700 gcvw,8200lbs towing,also remote start keyless entry and alarm,factory tonneau.a/c,pw,pl,pd,chrome rims offroad tires,rear slider,privacy glass. This is no knock against the tundra but you paid roughly the same as I did you don't have the 4x4 or 4 doors,I can haul more, tow more,plow if I wanted to.I'm sure your truck is nice but I do honestly think it is a bit overpriced.I will be adding the flowmasters 40 series exhaust, plus the K&N genII fuel and air kit and possibly a superchip after some more research so add $1200 to my cost.But still thats a little over $27000. The sticker on my truck was $31550. got them down to $26000 after 3 hours and an arm wrestle then had another $6000 in equity on 99 lightning.
  • bud_light_dudebud_light_dude Member Posts: 330
    I pull a 4,500 lb bass boat with my truck, so as you mentioned, I really like the locking differential for that sort of thing.

    I have had a few very minor problems, but overall I am extremlely happy with the new model Silverado. Unfortunately, I was rearended on the highway last week and my truck, which I really thought would be totalled, is being repaired. $12,000 worth of damage and they will not total it. Damage must exceed 65% of the vehicles value to merit them totalling it. Oh, well, new bed was put on, frame was straightened by one of the best frame specialists in the business and the two creases in the cab where the bed slammed into the cab, are being lead filled and repainted. Carries a lifetime warranty on the workmanship and materials so I am covered irregardless.

    In my honest opinion, if I had been in a Tundra, not only would the truck be totalled, but I don't think I would have faired as well in sustained injury either. I think the thinner sheetmetal and the lighter frame would have resulted in much more damage. Again, thats just my non-expert opinion.

    I will most likely always buy GM trucks. Not out of brand loyalty, but because they have always been good to me and served my needs very well. I have never had any real problems with them. I have had just as many problems with the Toyota trucks I have had as my GM trucks and I actually worked my GM trucks much harder than the Toyota's. Again, I am not flaming either, just stating my experiences as you requested.
  • dklossdkloss Member Posts: 22
    Sorry to hear about your Silverado incident. It kills me to get a door ding...I'm sure you're upset over the rearend...I can speak on an "incident" I had with my Tundra (just made the first car payment). Coming home from work in a highly industrial area, which I have driven for 15 years, a big ol' buck jumped out in front of me. His head was above my hood so you know he was big. I hit him on the front,passenger side and from the sound, I expected crumpled quarters. He was so big he got up and took off! I pulled over expecting the worst and didn't see anything except the bumper was pushed into the wheelwell about an inch. I had to point out the damage to others who thought I was splitting C-hairs over the damage. A friend pulled it back out with no chrome splintering, like it never happened. I was impressed how well it took the hit. A broadside crash may be a different story and hopefully I'll never know...but this buck would have totaled my old Pathfinder. I think the Tundra would do better than you think (in a rearend crash) since the frame is so well designed. Granted, I wouldn't want to take a side shot from a Kenworth...but who would.
  • volkejvolkej Member Posts: 108
    Saw a Tundra the other day that had been rolled. The back of the cab had been crushed, the right side was wrinkled, and the tailgate area was crushed.. I didn’t see the left side, so I don’t know if it was a complete rollover. It was still running and the driver had obviously not learned anything – he had the hammer down and went by me like I wasn’t moving (although I was in my old Toyota 4x4 and everything goes by me like I’m not moving.)
  • bud_light_dudebud_light_dude Member Posts: 330
    I guess maybe I could be wrong about the tensil strength of the frame and sheetmetal then. All the articles and specs show a significant difference in sheetmetal thickness and frame rigidity.

    My Tacoma took quite a bit of my abuse and kept right on going, so maybe the Tundra would surprise me. I would have never ventured elsewhere had I not needed more room. Like I mentioned, I tow a boat to tournaments and for family recreation so I am frequently loaded up on my trips. I needed the larger rear cabin room for passengers and gear, etc. Otherwise, the Tundra would have been in the running when I bought.
  • brucec35brucec35 Member Posts: 246
    All the posts I've read here on the price of the various trucks make me have to remind folks that:

    The total cost of ownership is what matters, not what your truck payment is. DEPRECIATION and REPAIRS are a big factor. I guarantee you that a Tundra is going to have a better resale value after 5 years than a Ford. I have owned Chevy, Ford, and Dodge trucks in the last 5 years, so I have no particular slant, but Toyota's rep for durability and engine life will probably make it the cheapest to own in the long run. Don't choose a truck because it's $1,500 cheaper.
  • eusasceusasc Member Posts: 91
    That's a sweet deal on the F-250. If I needed a 3/4 ton truck that would be the one for me. I even had one for a couple years, but just didn't need that much truck, and the repairs were getting a little expensive. I paid about 1k more then you, for my SR5, didn't get 4WD, but did get leather and a few more options then you listed. Also got a very good trade in on the 4 Runner. Just like Fords, you can find deals on Toyota's, you just got to look.
  • barlitzbarlitz Member Posts: 752
    I'm pretty good at negotiating deals a lot of my friends take me with them when they are buying and they usually make out good.I didn't want leather the next step up would be the lariet package in my truck.We finally had some snow and I got to use the 4 wheel drive it works beautifully the truck is breaking in nice with only 2300 miles or so and the remote start is probably one of the best options I put in it especially on the cold mornings.I don't know about the resale value thing someone mentioned I see a lot of 95 thru 97 F250's selling in the low 20's and thats without the 4 doors,I don't know what a 4 or 5 year old tundra would be worth its probably a different market than an f150 or f250.Someone posted that the tundra is made in the USA but not by UAW workers I was wondering if that was true?
  • kernickkernick Member Posts: 4,072
    I have owned several new foreign and American cars before buying my 2000 Silverado. Overall I've had good luck with them all. One was a Honda (210,000 mles) and a Subaru, and the other 2 Chevies (Corsica and Camaro).
    When it comes time for service there is always a premium whether it be at the dealer or a Sears/NTB place. For example last month my $79.99 brake job at NTB is $97 because it is a Subaru. Whenever my Honda needed a aterpump or something I paid %50 more for the part than I would on a Chevy.
    Now just for kicks call a Toyota dealer and ask them what a rebuild of that Tundra engine would be, and then call the Chevy dealer and ask the same thing on their V-8.
    Also take a look at the maintenance schedules between the 2. You'll be doing more regular maintenance on that Toyota then on the Chevy.
  • rwellbaum2rwellbaum2 Member Posts: 1,006
    My wife bought a corsica before we were married. It was threatening to put her in the poor house with repairs. She got it running long enough to trade it in on her Saturn (another GM product). So far with 71,000 miles it's been problem free except for a weird phenomenon where the water temp will rise to the red line for a while then back down. Saturn says it's normal. I just changed the fuel filter. It was $45.00 and that was the cheapest price I could find. The brakes were also very expensive. Fuel filter for my Toy truck was $4.99 and the brakes were about half the price. As for the engine...A rebuilt 22-R is expensive ( $1195 for a longblock) but I put 280,000 miles on mine before I had to replace it (because of emissions not failure).
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    You can't even get a get a quote from Toyota on an engine rebuild, I guarantee.

    Ashamed to admit, but I was curious what it would cost for a Toyota dealer to replace the rubber camshaft drive drive belts. He said "Whew...," he would have to get back to me. He never did.

    When I replaced the engine in a '90 Nissan Maxima, no one was rebuilding them. They said to do it properly, it cost more than people will pay. What you end up doing is pulling one from a wrecked vehicle, and paying an arm and a leg to get one that's good. Was around $3,000 for the Maxima. Only had about 100,000 miles, but it burned up when the computer leaned it out so bad the exhause headers glowed bright red!
  • bud_light_dudebud_light_dude Member Posts: 330
    Over six grand for a 93 camry new from factory. No such thing as a rebuild or refreshed one. That is without labor. Only other option is like quad said and you will still pay about 50% of what a new one costs, if you can even find one that runs good. After a decent hit, they don't take the impact well and most of the time can't be sold from the salvage yards running and definitely without even a 30 day warranty.

    A factory brand new 5.3l V8 long block that even includes the harness is only 3k. Give it a few years to not be a brand new engine and I am sure it will be as reasonable as the 350 engines. 350 Chevies are going for about 2k fully equipped.
  • arkie6arkie6 Member Posts: 198
    Many here are talking about the high cost or inability to rebuild a Toyota or Nissan engine. I don't agree with most of these comments based on my ACTUAL experience.

    I recently rebuilt the engine in my 1984 Toyota Supra (2.8 liter DOHC I-6) with about 180,000 miles due primarily to oil leaks (also found the oil rings stuck from carbon which I suspect was due to the previous owners lack of regular oil changes - I bought the car with 104,000 miles). Anyway, for about $1200 worth of genuine Toyota parts and a couple of weekends I had the engine and transmission back in tip top shape. I replaced the following: all engine gaskets, piston rings, main and rod bearings, hydraulic valve lash adjusters, water pump, timing belt, timing belt idler, clutch , pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, transmission front seal, transmission rear seal, transmission rear bushing, and other misc stuff like plugs, wires, air filter (K&N), fuel filter, acc. belts, etc. Note that the engine block and old rings and bearings all measured within allowable specs for the new parts and really did not need to be replaced. Also, the old water pump was working fine, just replaced due to age and ease while engine was out.

    After about 15,000 miles since the rebuild the engine runs perfect and uses about 1/2 qt of Mobil 1 10W30 between oil changes (every 6000 miles).
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    You can't get PROPERlY rebuilt japanese engine at a fair price. You gave a perfect example...no valve guides, valves, valve seats, valve springs, camshaft, camshaft bearings, pistons, wrist pins, bushings or oil pump, no figure given for your labor either.

    They are throwaway designs, and if I'm wrong, you can be the first to set me straight with a quote from Toyota on a Tundra V8 rebuild. Good luck...said it before, you aren't going to get one from Toyota. Been there on the Nissan, done that, got the t-shirt.
  • bud_light_dudebud_light_dude Member Posts: 330
    I have been there with Toyota's camry, once for me and once for my mom. In both cases, it was cheaper to sell it as is, mainly for misc parts and then buy a new car. The only time it may be worth it is in specific cases where a fairly new car or truck blew and engine due to abuse or water flooding, etc. and the body and interior are in like new condition. in that case, it still may be better to pay the 6k for a new one and keep going. If it is older than 4 or 5 years old or if the body and interior are in just ok condition or less, it is less costly to just buy a new or different car.
  • rwellbaum2rwellbaum2 Member Posts: 1,006
    My dad had to have his valve guides replaced @60,000 miles on his 94 chevy. $1200.00. parts and labor. That was the cheapest price, chevy wanted even more. This is your idea of saving money. BTW, the valve guides are plastic, talk about throwaway!
  • arkie6arkie6 Member Posts: 198
    On the Supra engine I replaced everything that needed to be replaced (gaskets and seals were the only things that was really needed due to heat and age - 15 years), and I replaced many things that were not in need of replacement just because I had the engine out and past experience with rebuilds on GM products I assumed that they were way overdue. I checked everything that you mentioned and everything was within new specs per my factory service manual. I completely dissassembled the heads and lapped the valves - none were burnt and the guides had no detectable wear. Note also in my previous post that the total price also included new clutch and transmission parts. The same rebuild w/new clutch on my '83 GMC Jimmy 4x4 at 90,000 miles cost just as much if not more than for the Supra at 180,000 miles. You guys can bash Toyota all you want, but you will never convince me that they do not build a superior product in terms of quality of materials vs. the domestic manufacturers. And the parts aren't significantly more expensive based on my experience with both Toyota and GM factory parts (you can generally find cheap aftermarket parts for the GM that may not be available for the Toyota, but I believe you get what you pay for).

    That's pure B.S. in your post about Toyota engines being a throwaway design. That Toyota block will still be using standard size rings and pistons when a GM engine would have been bored .060 over.

    Regarding the quote from Toyota about the cost to rebuild a Tundra V8: Toyota probably hasn't determined the labor costs yet to rebuild the 4.7L V8 as it will probably be 10 years or more before they will have to tackle one.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Okay, "throwaway design" is a bit unfair, but the practical implications of not doing it yourself will make it a de-facto reality that cannibalized parts will always be cheaper than rebuilding, just as it is with the Nissan Maxima.

    Now that's pure B.S. in your post about Toyota blocks still using standard size rings and pistons when a GM engine would have been bored 0.060 over. If their steels are really that good, some of it should be used for those rusting panels Toyota is famous for.
  • rrichfrrichf Member Posts: 211
    arkie6,
    I'm sure that you did an excellent job but you didn't rebuild the engine. What you did was overhaul the engine. (a.k.a. Ring and valve job.) A rebuild usually involves reboring, crank turning and other machine work. I hope that you did have the head surface ground before reinstalling it. Heads almost always warp when they are removed and they need to be trued up before reinstalling. If you didn't keep a close watch on radiator water. Look for water being eaten and/or an emulsion scum in the water. Sure signs of a head gasket problems. (Easy to check too.)

    Somebody mentioned plastic valve guides. I think that Ford went through that fiasco in their Pick Up engines, maybe 20 years ago. I sort of recall that a neighbor finally had his replaced with metal at Ford's expense. Today I think that there are better plastics that would give better service in the valve guide application. Maybe the guides wear out due to infrequent oil changes? Ah, sorry about that! There's enough flames in another topic about oil changes.

    Rich
  • cole12cole12 Member Posts: 10
    I have a few annoying problems I would like to share. First, my brake pedal creaks when I depress it. My rear sliding window creaks when the vehicle is going up a steep driveway on an angle, rattle on right side between doors. Yes, I am a little dissapointed in those minor defects. But on the same token, its a brand new design. I guess I am just spoiled with my rx300.Does anybody else have these same problems?
  • bigboy3bigboy3 Member Posts: 22
    My Tundra has @4200 miles and I also have a rattle/squeak where the 2 doors meet on the right side. Someone has said to check the seat belt hanger, but that was not the problem on mine. I think my doors need to be adjusted, but have not had the time to take it to the dealership for adjustment. Let me know if you get your rattle resolved.
  • tp4unctp4unc Member Posts: 437
    I'm sure the dealer can adjust your doors to correct the squeak. However, a quick fix(at least until you have the time to see the dealer) is a dose of silicone spray on ALL of the rubber seals around the doors. I believe you'll be squeak free after trying this.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    You getting around okay in that slushy NC muck? You've been silent for a while. Quad has been concerned for your well being :)
  • tp4unctp4unc Member Posts: 437
    Been busy pulling '99 Silverados out of ditches. LOL! Seriously though, we did get about 9 inches where I live(probably 15" drifts). South and east of here got over 20" in some parts. That just doesn't happen in East/Central NC. There are dozens of 2WD trucks(and cars) having all kinds of problems. I did push three vehicles out of trouble(not ditches). I have a friend who works part time for a local wrecker service and he has not stopped for days. Out your way in Colorado, I imagine most people know how to drive in this crap. You wouldn't believe the morons(not me!!) here!!

    I went driving early last Tuesday morning(about 5:00am) during the peak of the "blizzard". I had an absolute blast! Nothing but other 4wd "idiots" out at that time. Nothing like plowing your own lanes through the powder. Secondary roads are still extremely icy(I think it got down to 14 degrees last night). Weather geeks are calling for more snow this weekend(by the way, they also called for ONE inch of snow for this last one!). Might buy a snowmobile this evening. Gotta love this global warming.

    Another Newton law for you:

    Snow + morons = sheetmetal destruction
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    Just go to RANDOLPH county!!
  • rrichfrrichf Member Posts: 211
    tp4unc,
    I was in Detroit/Toledo for the NAIAS and got the chance to renew my winter driving skills(?). Shortly thereafter I was back home in Los Angeles and rain. For those of you who don't understand the significance, Rain in LA is just like snow elsewhere. Then I noticed that the bad weather had moved to North Carolina.

    The amazing thing about this bit of tripe is that it seems there is but a single group of morons that congregate in bad weather. First they were spinning, slipping and sliding in Detroit. Then they were causing mayhem and bent sheet metal in LA. And now, according to your report they have flocked to North Carolina.

    Maybe we could get a government grant to research this social phenomenon. :-)

    Rich
  • tp4unctp4unc Member Posts: 437
    Tundradude,
    Yeah, I saw where Randolph(especially Asheboro south) got clobbered! The difference in snow depths between areas just a few miles apart is unbelievable. Looking forward to the next round this weekend? I'm not!

    rrichf,
    I think Clinton pushed for that grant money last night during his speech.....it was right before he whispered "I love you" to his wife.
    Good luck in the rain.
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    I had a vacation planned for this weekend, but I guess I will just watch it from the storm all weekend from the house.

    A positive note about the weather, my Tundra monthly miles have sharply decreased.
  • not2anonymousnot2anonymous Member Posts: 7
    So far I have walked away from two [and as of
    Monday maybe three] Toyota Dealers in Central
    Arkansas. The main problem seems to be an
    incessant need to low ball on the trade and creep
    upwards of 25% over invoice on the new.
    Armed,(thru Edmunds),with the facts these
    "professionals" seem to look at you as if you're
    from Mars when you give them an honest offer. I
    have remained consistent on my trade's appraisal
    and offered a flat $500 over invoice. In each case
    I have watched every dealership creep those
    figures back up to 27K-29K while I stand there and
    tell them I know the cost is just over 25K. One
    "rocket scientist" even wrote his "bottom dollar"
    on the actual invoice. When he showed me his
    figure I saw that the invoice on it was $24,975.
    He said he had to get $28,000 for it. I shook my
    head and laughed and said "I hope you get it...but
    it won't be from me".
    If we all would do this we could bring these guys
    back to reality.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    If the dealership sales department is dishonest with you, why should the service department be any different?
  • rrichfrrichf Member Posts: 211
    quad,
    I think that dishonesty in the service department is inversely proportional to the IQ of the service "Salesman" advisor.
    Rich
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Rrichf,
    So as dishonesty increases, IQ decreases. I agree with that.

    But you would assume no connection to what they do on the sales floor, and what they do in the service department, even though both have same ownership?
  • rrichfrrichf Member Posts: 211
    quad,
    From personal experience I can say that there is absolutely no connection between the service department management and the service floor AND they're in the same part of the dealership. Between the service department and sales; they're on two totally different planets!
    Rich
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Rrichf,
    If you were paying 15% too much for your parts, and/or labor, would you be aware of this?
  • rrichfrrichf Member Posts: 211
    quad,
    I would LOVE to pay ONLY 15% more for parts at the local dealer. Those ******** are charging 150% more for oil filters, 350% more for fuel filters, a disposable air filter for the cost of a K & N! And that even includes shipping from Texas!
    Rich
  • jtedjted Member Posts: 17
    I bought a Tundra when I traded my 97 T100, Yes I have some regrets. 1 the Cab is small in the back of the ex-cab. 2 it can carry about 450lbs less then the T100. # I only have 1100 miles on my truck and the best gas mileage has been 14 mpg, but I live in Wisconsin so I'm sure the weather doesn't help.
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    I traded up from a 94 T100 to the new Tundra. I traded up to get up the extra towing capacity. The Tundra is much furthur upscale then the the T100 on the amenties. The only thing I miss is the gas mileage. My T100 got an average 23 miles to a gallon. The Tundra averages around 18.5. I like the extra height of the Tundra and the ground clearance. Have yet to tow anything heavy yet, but ,my camping trailer should be tried out soon when it gets warm.
  • rooster9rooster9 Member Posts: 239
    Jted, where in Wisconsin do you live? I live in Wisconsin too. The winters can be pretty brutal sometimes. I am gonna get a truck soon, and am still trying to decide on which one. I test drove a '00 Dodge Dakota with the next generation 4.7L engine and extended cab 4x4, '00 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercab 4x4, '00 Chevy Silverado 5.3L Z71 4x4 Extended, and recently '00 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4x4. I also looked at the new 4 door Chevy's recently, the dealer is getting 85 of them in March. I really liked the Toyota, I thought the ride quality was one of the best, and the engine just sounded sweet! The doors shut really well, nice tight fit, and the interior was quiet. We have a '98 Chevy K1500 4x4 Extended Cab right now, and the Tundra's back seat had about the same room as it does. I was quoted $27,754 for the Tundra. I was just wondering if there is a remote keyless entry system as on option on this truck. I also really liked the lockable tailgate for when I haul my fourwheeler somewhere, and the lockable gas tank filler door was good too, no worries about people putting crap in the gastank. I really don't know which one I want.
  • pelosopeloso Member Posts: 2
    rooster,
    just submitted a order for a 2000 Tundra 4x4 TLD Access cab and yes, there is a remote keyless entry option...I ordered it.
  • rrichfrrichf Member Posts: 211
    peloso,
    Ah yes ordered, but will Toyota deliver? :)
    Rich
  • nickpernickper Member Posts: 28
    I test drove this truck. It was not bad, but the FOrd/GM trucks are still way better. The type of people to drive this truck are former Cam/Cord owners. Will have to see how the engines last. That is Ford/GM's strong point. Best reliability in their trucks.
  • rwellbaum2rwellbaum2 Member Posts: 1,006
    All 3 of my chevy trucks were using oil by 60,000 miles and I had tranny's die at 80,000 and 100,00. My dad's ford had to be rebuilt @ 120,000. This along with front and rear bearings that didn't make it past 100,000, lots of carb problems on the ford and overheating problems on the 4x4 chevy. My 78 Toyota is still running great on it's second engine. The first one lasted 280,000 miles. It now has over 380,000 and the only problem is very small leak in the heater core and a cracked windshield. It has all the original wheel bearings, u-joints, etc. My friends Toy has 240,000 on the original engine. This is very standard for Toyota trucks. I really appreciate the quality, dependability and longevity Toyota provides. When it came time to buy a new truck, Toyota quality easily won out over the latest, useless electronic gizmos and cup holder gimmicks the big-3 seem to focus on.
  • meredithmeredith Member Posts: 575
    The PICKUPS Conference has gotten WAY too big....

    it is unwieldy to manage, and difficult to use for "newbies." There is entirely TOO much topic duplication, so I will be doing some SERIOUS topic consolidation in the next few weeks, getting us down to not more than 2-3 topics per vehicle type, and ultimately down to 200 topics or less.

    THIS weeks consolidation candidates are: Tundra's, Tacoma's and Rangers.

    In that vein,please consolidate this Tundra topic to Welcome Toyota Tundra - V and continue these discussions there.

    Thanks!

    Front Porch Philosopher
    SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
This discussion has been closed.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.