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1) Instructions aren't too clear (all pics, no words)
2) you need a 25/64 drill bit to drill 4 holes for the mounting bracket. 25/64 is NOT a standard size, even Home Depot didn't carry it.
Overall it took me about 4 leisurely hours today to do.
It is a nice console though, there's a light for seeing deep down inside. Inside there's a pull handle to release it from the mounting base.
Those of you who own a 2005 T&C please share any tips that you have learned.
For example, any tricks for maintenance? Oil changes for this particular vehicle?
Any specific experience for a break-in period for this particular vehicle?
Basically, anything that you wished that you knew when you first got your T&C. I bought mine on Sunday and it has 10 miles on it and I pick it up tomorrow.
I’ve been reading a lot about excessive brake dust and someone posted if I experience this problem, to take it to the dealer before 12,000 miles. Why? Will they replace the break pads for free?
Thanks in advance for any tips and insight.
That is how the original owner drove and maintained the 2002 T&C LX I own and it feels like new.
Excessive brake pad dust is a DaimlerChrysler characteristic. However, one of my daughters did not have to replace brake pads until it had over 70,000 miles on her 1999 GC SE.
Congratulations on purchasing the least expensive minivan that will cost less to operate than any other minivan....while having more nice comfort features than minivans that cost $10,000 more to purchase new.
It appears to be connected to the interior light circuit.
Supposedly the 2006 Town & Country has an MP3 capable version available. I inquired at the local dealership when we started having problems with the 6disc changer (to which they replaced), and they indicated (after a fair amount of searching on their end) that the MP3 capable replacement radio would run about $495.
I don't really have any other details.. sorry.
The more that I read these forums, the more I am considering getting some kind of extended coverage.
Basically my question is what is it that Chrysler offers, and is it any better than 1SourceAutoWarranty.com, or WarrantyDirect.com ?
One of the reasons that I ask is because I heard that many dealer warranties are essentially just a mechanical breakdown contract, which is not as good as wear & tear contracts (whereas I want both "wear & tear" AND "mechanical breakdown" coverage in my contract).
I also heard that most dealer warranties don’t cover overheating.
Not always offer manufacturer’s warranty.
Additionally, I’ve heard that car dealers often resell the extended warranty to you at 2 to 3 times what they paid, so they are nothing more than middle-men.
As an example, I received a quote from one of the above companies for a full bumper to bumper coverage for 84 months/100,000 miles with ZERO dollar deductible and it will cost me $1996.88. Of course I can get something less such as 48 month/100,000 miles with $100 deductible for $1437.
Am I better off buying one of these extended warranties or what the dealer offers?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Wear and Tear contracts? Never heard of this. I have heard of maintenance contracts, but never wear & tear. All ext warranties I have seen EXCLUDE wear and tear items. The prices you were quoted are no better than what the dealer quoted me for the same coverage and deductable. Remember, these contract are VERY NEGOTIABLE. I negotiated with my dealer and it wasn't too hard to get him to come down on the price. These contracts are very lucrative for dealers. Good luck.
Does anyone know what causes this or what can be done about it?
Some dealers are NOT greedy.
BTW, I used the Extended Warranty last week to have the left front door power window repaired and paid the $100 deductible. Otherwise, it would have cost me $450. (It is $85 just to take the panel off and diagnose the problem....which is the most of the labor to repair it where needed).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks for replying
I have a 2005 with tow package that I use to pull my tent trailer/pop up RV....it's fantastic pulling it. I also have the power hatch, which I didn't really want but it was on lot that way.....and now I can't imagine life without it
I have not wanted power sliding doors, power liftgate, Stow 'N Go 2nd row seats....probably because I have never had them.
I never missed the overhead console with compass/outside temp and trip computer but now I do not want a minivan without this feature. Same with dual zone temp control for driver and front passenger (Triple Zone with most GC and T&C as rear passenges get a third setting).
Remember how the smug owners of a Chrysler wannabee ridiculed the power liftgate as a "gimmick" when DaimlerChrysler introduced it? NOW, the power lift gate is highly acclaimed by owners of the Japanese brands that have it.
DaimlerChrysler has by far the best designed power sliding doors and I wonder why the others have not copied the design. :confuse:
Definitely install electric brake controller!!! and a optional sway bar is amazing for control.
Try and get dealer to trade you harnesses though...the std harness with tow uses the old 4 pin connector, instead of the 7 pin USCar standard everyone uses these days. You can find the P/N on Mopar site!
My DCX tows like a dream....last camping trip of the year I took her to Holland State Park in Michigan (on Lake Michigan)....beautiful fall trip, cool weather, no AC needed while driving.....I got almost 20 mpg with van loaded up and camper too!! Then driving around Saugatuck/Holland area without camper I was getting 26mpg. Don't know of too many SUV that can get great mileage with all this space!!!
I have 3rd seat stowed and bach hatch opened. That way I can clearly see hitch and ball....very easy!!!!
SXT has fog lights standard, Touring offers in an expensive package.
Well, it is not an extended warranty from a 3rd party. they are the actual warranty company. Many of the extended warranties offered at the dealership are not from the dealership and not from DCX, THEY are from a 3rd party.
Anyway, has anyone bought an extended warranty from the dealer with NO DEDUCTABLE for the same coverage and less cost than in my original post?
" I Well, it is not an extended warranty from a 3rd party."
I have no idea what you are trying to say. An extended warranty simply means a warranty that "extends" beyond the factory 3/36 warranty.
By the term 3rd party, I mean that the warranty is provided by a company other than the auto manufacturer (e.g. Chrysler, Ford Toyota, etc etc). I would bet big money that if a car manufacturer offers an ext warranty product they would NOT offer a competing "3rd party" contract. I could be wrong, but it doesn't seem to make good financial sense. When i purchased the Chrysler ext warranty, they never offered any other brand except Chry product.
Thanks
While I've never driven an AWD van in the snow, I do have a few opinions on the efficacy of AWD for this type of vehicle. Common belief would have it that AWD will impart superior braking, cornering and accelerating abilities to any and every vehicle so equipped. That is simply not true. In the acceleration department, AWD reigns supreme, however, due to the extra weight, AWD loses most if not all of its advantage when it comes to turning, and in the braking department, the FWD van should stop the shortest (once again due to its lighter weight).
Said another way, unless you need to routinely traverse a long grade (or driveway) with a 15% grade or more, I'd have a real difficult time understanding any justification for AWD.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The original owner of my 02 T&C LX got an "Added Coverage" DaimlerChrysler warranty that covered most items for an additional 4 years and 39K miles with $100 deductible past the original 3 year 36K warranty for $ 840 at time of purchase of the 02 T&C. By purchasing the Added Coverage warranty, the original 7 year 100,000 mile powertrain warranty was transferrable to the next buyer with the Added Coverage warranty for a $ 150 Fee. Otherwise, the 7 year 100,000 powertrain warranty would have expired when original owner sold the van.
If I ever decide to start worrying about future unscheduled maintenance, I will simply put $2,000 into an account each time I purchase a new car, and then use that fund to draw against for said maintenance. Had I followed that plan since buying that car back in 1987, I would still have more than $14,000 in that account, not counting interest. Hmmm, "Self Insurance", it's not a new concept, corporate America discovered this decades ago.
Best Regards,
Shipo
EXCELLENT!!!!!! Anytime someone offers any kind of extended warranty....I decline it. So far no regrets!
We have the "Maximum Care" warranty. Daimlerchrysler did not offer the 7 yrs/100K warranty until after our van was built. (Our van according to it's VIN didn't qualify for it). The Maximum Care warranty is bumper to bumper. If we would have bought it new, I would have not bought an extended warranty. But, because we bought it used and the original warranty expired, it made better since to buy the extended warranty. We paid cash for our van and 2K under the Kelly Blue Book Value. (At time of purchase, we paid close to 16K to which it was worth over 18K). So far we have used the warranty twice in our over 2 yrs of ownership and have put over 28K miles on it. Once for both front power window regulator motors, which cost just under $500 and second on some front suspension work which cost about $500. We replace the original manufacture battery at the dealership for about $100. (Battery went dead during an oil change). The gas cap needed to be replaced, which coast $12 for the gas cap and over $75 for the engine diagnostic. (I could have saved the $75, if I went to an auto parts store that read codes for free.) We spent $145 for a complete trans. flush and fill. Oil changes cost us $9 including toping off all fluids. Bought a new tire for $160 because of old tire had a hole in the sidewall that was not repair able. So our van has been very reliable and I am very pleased with the reliability and our purchase. Sometime in the near future, I will be changing both cargo door gas lifters, which will coast about $30-40 each. Outside of that, everything is working just like it should.
I test drove two similarly equipped T&Cs in the months before I bought this one. I test drove this one for 6 miles before buying it. The one drawback in the purchase was that the location of the dealer prevented me from easily getting out onto a highway. The nearest highway stretch is I-4 just North of Orlando and I don't go on that road at all!
The car was acceptably smooth and quiet when I bought it and for about 80 miles thereafter (half of that 80 was the 40 miles home - the dealer is not the closest to me, but the only one who had a car equpped reasonably close to the way I wanted.).
After the problem developed and after two service techs from the selling dealer had told me they could hear and feel nothing unusual, I went out with the service manager in both my car and another T&C Touring off the dealer lot. We took the same normal test loop I
took before buying. The other T&C was acceptably smooth and quiet in all respects, while mine made all the same sounds and demonstrated the same harshness it did on the roads close to home.
The service manager then tried to tell me that my car sounded quieter than the other car.!That's when I knew I would have to get the regional service manager involved. The owner of the selling dealership was out of the country when I visited, but I have talked with him on the phone since and get nothing but the same unctuous concern - but no action.
I bought my first new car (a 1959 Volvo PV544) in 1958, so I know enough to never buy anything before checking it out well.
Or were you merely being facetious?
Also, I really like the Limited model. Are there any Limited owners out there that care to comment on their van with respect to comfort, reliability, and features? Thanks for the input.
I'd hold off til end of year to buy though, DCX will have to bring back EP+, plus end of year cash etc....buyers expect it now.
However, the Odd EX costs much more than the GC SXT or Sienna LE and does NOT have an overhead console that my wife and I love on our 2002 T&C LX.
We are disappointed that the 2006 GC SXT interior looks cheaper than the interior of our lesser 2002 T&C LX and DaimlerChrysler took off the heating coils at base of windshield, lighting on some door controls, dual lights on visors, Instant Economy reading from Trip Computer that are on our 02 T&C LX clone of the 02 GC Sport. :sick:
I don't know how the 2005 can have a better reliability. There are only a few minor differences, like the tri-fold 2nd row storage covers that allow easier access to the bins. Pure random samples of customer ratings, and a limited set as well. 2006 DCX minivans have only been on the lots for 6 weeks.
I highly reoommend the Signature Series which is a bargain of a package, or the DGC Special Edition is similar w/o NAV. IMHO, both are better values than the T&C Limited. For November there is $3500 in rebates on 2006 models, $4k on 2005 models. Also, DCX employees have two of their employee prices to give out to anyone. If you can find an employee that has not given his away yet, you can save at least $3k off MSRP, minus any rebates. Some dealers in Detroit are offering $1k-2k additional off, dealer cash or selling below employee price. I saw an ad for 2006 T&C Touring for $19.5k, Signature for $23k.
We owned a 2005 Sienna. I didn't think it bother me, but it just doesn't drive as well as the GC. The Sienna feels like a big lumbering van. We like the drivability of the GC much better.
And gas mileage has been better w the GC.
My wife and I feel that the 2006 Sienna LE looks and feels more luxurious inside than the 2006 GC SXT and also has the Instant Economy reading on the trip computer that is on our 02 T&C LX but which has been taken off DC minivan trip computers the past few years. :sick:
The Sienna has instant economy which the GC does not, but I haven't missed it. The instant economy was never useful around here, slight hills. It would always read 99 going downhill and 5 going uphill, too hard to average. Its easier to reset the mileage on the GC so I can average over whatever I want.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Travelling at night, the Instant Economy reading is the only way I know if I am going uphill or down. Uphill it can read anywhere from 13 to 25 MPG and downhill anywhere from 40 to 99 MPG. On the level (without wind) it fluctuates between 32 and 33 MPG at 65-66 MPH.
I am also disgusted with DC cheapening the minivans by deleting the lighted controls on the doors and heating coils at the base of the windshield that are contained on my bottom of the line 2002 Chrysler T&C LX. :sick:
I also have some squeaks and rattles which drives me crazy, I just don't have the time to sit at the dealer to figure out where it comes from. Meanwhile, it drives me crazy.
I don't like the automatic temp. controls. Too complicated to use, especially these days when it's cold in the morning, getting hot during the day, and again cold at night, so I have to hold all 3 buttons (3-zones) about half a minute every time to move it from 85 fahrenheit to 60 and back and forth every time. I loved my older cars with manual controls which you just slide or turn a knob from red to blue and the change is done.
The controls are not the best, too many similar buttons on the audio system. I don't like the white gauges either. The car is much noisier than the 2003 T&C I drive at work. Mileage is also bad, 13.5 mpg average.
I do like the 8-way power seats, the outside temperature; the driver information center; turning radius; audio controls on the steering wheel are excellent; and some other minor things.
I still need back the old features from the pre-2002 models: illuminated controls for power door locks, windows, mirrors, and ignition key ring; lamps on the front doors, dual liftgate lamps (not one); windshield wiper de-icer; closable bins for the 3rd row; light in glove box; and more.
Ummm, maybe I'm missing something, but we have one van with the old fashioned slide controls, one for the driver and one for the passenger, and another van which has the three zone climate control. Me? I'll take the three zone climate control any day.
I have to ask, why on earth are you fiddling around with the temperature settings at all? If you get in your car and it's cold inside, it will warm up to an interior setting of say 72 no faster with the display set on anything warmer than that same 72. Said another way, it will take just as long to hit 72 when the controls show 85 as it would if you just left it alone in the first place. The same also holds true if it's 110 inside and you have the system set at 70, just leave it alone (or enable Recirc mode) and drive.
Best Regards,
Shipo