Chevrolet Malibu: Problems & Solutions

maxxoliver · July 2005

Thanks, since we cannot post our email address I am not sure how either.

joe3891 · July 2005

This may work, I read Edmunds rules so this should be ok. Go to http://www.bikeforums.net and sign in, we can PM there, I am gonogo on that site.

cwb098 · July 2005

thanks for the responses to this question. I finally had to have the car towed to a dealer and have the key cylinder replaced. At $400.00, over priced i think. If it happens again this thing gets hotwired.

Thanks

psychofireman · July 2005

Need to replace the fuel pump for one that will actually work. Do I actually have to drop the fuel tank or is there another way to access it? It is a 97 chevy malibu 2.4L P.O.S.

joe3891 · July 2005

Yes, not a bad job once you do it a few times. Once I had to have a sender unit replace under warranty, was out of the shop in less than an hour.

joe3891 · July 2005

Hang on, not sure it still works, will get back.

dispencer1 · July 2005

What is happening is that the ignition won't recognize the key. It will eventually get worse and the ten minute deal won't work any more. You will need a new ignition module. It costs about $300 to put it in since the dealer has to disassemble the dash.

tk465 · July 2005

I have a similar problem with my 98 malibu. During hard acceleration or around 3500 RPM's the engine revs and stalls repeatedly as if I'm pushing down on the gas and taking my foot off until it gets beyond a certain point. It also makes a loud noise near the exhaust manifold like it has a hole in it but I can't seem to locate it. It pretty much sounds like herbie the love bug when it accelerates withing the last few days.

Any clues?

Steve

fabiophx · July 2005

About three months ago the check engine light went on and the car was hard to start , so I took to midas and they replaced the coil pack, crank sensor and ignition module($900.00). For about fifteen days the car was just fine but the same problem started again, but at this time the check engine light was off.I took back to Midas and they replaced the fuel pump. Again the car was good for about a month and now the same problem started again, its crank but don't start and when it starts it runs just fine. So please are there anybody out there who have any clue about what is happens with my car????

dispencer1 · July 2005

GM used to guarantee any non-warranty repairs done at a dealer. I wouldn't take any of my cars to anybody but a dealer. Anyway the fuel pump does not work if the ignition module needs replacing. This is why when the ignition switch doesn't recognize the key the engine cranks but isn't getting any gas and therefore won't start. There is a possibility that the fuel pump was fine and did not need to be replaced. Normally the ignition module is the only thing that needs replacing and it runs around $300 or so. The module as I recall is about $150 and the rest is labor since the dash has to be disassembled.

bloggert · July 2005

my parking permit is usually in between the black rubber flap and the right rear door/window pane. unfortunately someone was playing with the window the other day and when i arrived at work i found that the permit was actually INSIDE the door! (basically they lowered the window, which dragged the permit beneath the window...and the only reason i can tell the permit's still there is when i move the window up and down i can see the "sticky marks" from the permit on the window) do i need to remove the entire door panel to get to the permit, or is there something easier i can do? (also can you completely lower the rear right window??)

any help would be appreciated!

renter · July 2005

I have rented a Malibu Maxx from Budget with no owners manual. I need to eliminate the horn honk that sounds whern i lock it using the key fob. Can any Maxx owner help by checking your owner's manual and posting the procedure in reply to this post? Thanks.

doombert · July 2005

Does the horn only beep when you press the lock button on the key fob twice? That's the way my 2004 Maxx works. I believe if you just hit the lock button once, it will have the same effect, just without the horn sounding.
I also believe it can be disabled through the information console where the radio is, but I don't have my car or manual handy. I will check after work and post later, if no one else has replied by then.

e2helper · July 2005

You are correct doombert, there are 2 levels of horn chirp on this vehicle when locking doors.

If you are hearing the chirp on the first button press then you can turn this off using the Driver Information Center in radio. Just turn on the vehicle and press the MENU button until a menu item comes up which says LOCK HORN (I think this is 3rd or 4th one depending on vehicle). With that displayed just press and hold the ENTER button until the display changes from LOCK HORN ON ---> LOCK HORN OFF.

You can do similar stuff for UNLOCK separately - along with other stuff as you can see.

If renter is just noticing that the horn chirps after the LOCK button is pressed a second time then that is BY DESIGN operation and cannot be disabled. It is actually considered a feature which you can use as a quick method for locating vehicle. The fob has an actual LOCATE feature but that does 3 horn chirps.

renter · July 2005

Thanks doombert - I am getting horn chirp on the first press of the lock button. e2helper explained and answered my question in #2136. You were very helpful.

renter · July 2005

e2helper - thanks for the help - that solved the problem.

townhome · July 2005

I know this is a month late, but my Toyota truck had a similar noise. It turns out it was something called a steering stop. They were little rubber things that cost about $2 plus $75 in labor to replace. And, as it turns out, I had to replace them every 5,000 miles or so to get the noise to stop. I don't think this is strictly a GM problem.

jerrywimer · July 2005

I just learned something else new. (The three chirp LOCATE function)

How do you activate this feature?

e2helper · July 2005

It should be in your owner manual. What you think of as the PANIC button on the key fob actually has 2 functions. A "short" press gives you the 3 short chirp LOCATE function. A "long" press gives you the normal long chirp PANIC function.

I would have tested this out to describe better but didn't want to annoy my wife

townhome · July 2005

Remember, as I think e2helper has explained, that for early models, the radio presets are different for each key fob, so if someone is switching back and forth between key fobs, the radio station presets will change correspondingly. Also, I've had other cars that eject CD's at random if the CD is damaged or if the CD player gets too hot.

maxxoliver · July 2005

I did buy a Lemon :lemon: and GM bought it back just recently. I had the same problems with the stereo, they replaced it 4 times then in April they put an 05 stereo in it and that fixed that finally, there is a software problem apparently in the 04.
I had an intake manifold oil leak, trouble with the sunshades, the DVD player failed, a headlight assembly filled full of water and had to be replaced, the AC fan had to be replaced with only 845 miles on the car, window trim was replaced, and several other things all within 6 months. This car had about every problem conceiveable. I love the car and wanted a new one without all these problems.
I contacted New Motor Vehicle Board in Sacramento Ca and they helped me obtain a repurchase of that car. It took 8 months to complete. We have since purchased another Galaxy Silver MAXX LT fully loaded and so far so good. But it has only been a month.
We bought the first one off the local chevy dealers lot. It was our very first ever brand new car. What an experience.
See if you can get the dealer to order an 05 stereo not just a replacement and see if that works as well for you.

doodlebug20 · July 2005

I don't understand. So many people experience the problem with the intake manifold and the ignition module yet GM doesn't issue a recall? Why is that...i have heard SOOO many people talk about how these things ALMOST ALWAYS go wrong on these cars...what is up with that?

I have a 2001 malibu and am going through both of these things at the SAME TIME...only finding out that it's probably the ignition module and not the fuel pump a little too late --- having already bought the new replacement fuel pump...and chances are it's not even that problem. Oh well -- I guess we'll see tonight.... :sick:

williams8888 · July 2005

I am hearing the same sounds with my car. Did you have it taken care of?

aladdin_sane · July 2005

I bought my Malibu, used, a few months ago. Everything has been great so far, but I would really like to customize the stereo. I already a subwoofer and an amp, and an Alpine cda-9815 deck, all of which were in my last car. I've looked into it a bit and it looks like it would be a big hassle to remove the stock head unit, involving either mounting it in the back, or buying an expensive, $300 harness that could display the driver information centre info. I've decided to live with it, even though it means buying a $200 wire that will run from the cd changer input on the back of the stock stereo, creating a line-in that i could plug an ipod or md player or whatever into. Basically want to be able to play mp3's in my car.

My question is, do you think it would be worth getting the subwoofer installed, and possibly upgrading the speakers, if I'm going to leave the stock head unit in? Would the sound quality be improved significantly? Also, I've read that some of the newer stock head units GM is producing come with an 1/8 inch line-in jack. I was wondering if the 2005 or the soon to be released 2006 malibu comes with this feature on the stereo, or if there is some other GM vehicle that has this feature, so i could possibly install a stereo made for that vehicle in my car. Any information anyone can give me regarding modifying the stereo in a 2004 Malibu would be much appreciated. If anyone has any experience with this, or if you have any suggestions/ideas i haven't considered, please give me a shout. Thanks!

bluedevils · July 2005

You might consider calling Crutchfield to find out how much they know about the sound system in the '04 Malibu. Sorry I don't have more helpful info, but it's an idea.

fabiophx · July 2005

Thanks for the help, but you are talking about the ignition switch and not ignition module right?
The ignition module , that one situade under the hod I've replaced already.
So should I replace the ignition switch, only the middle where I put the key or should I replaced the hole thing, that plastic cover that is around the cilinder?
Thanks for the help!!!!

jerrywimer · July 2005

Thanks for the tip. I always read the manual when I buy a new vehicle, but I must've just missed that feature. I hear ya about annoying your wife. I'll test it out on our car when I get home from work tonight (might annoy the neighbors, but not the wife- our garage is well insulated from the rest of the house :P ).

e2helper · July 2005

I am not sure how well that operation was described in owner manual - especially first printing of the 2004 manual which you might have.

There were quite a few nuances in operation of keyless entry and content theft that weren't really covered.

dtownfb · July 2005

A recall of the intake maifold gasket would effect too many cars. You are talking jsut about all pushrod V6 over the past decade (take a look at the old forum archive here in Edmunds). It would probably be the biggest recall in history. And at about $400-$700 per repair......GM is banking that the gasket does not fail before the warranty ends.

aladdin_sane · July 2005

I'ved looked into it and have decided it wouldn't be worth it to install the sub. Maybe a few months down the line I'll throw an amp in there and some new speakers, but thats about it. Right now I'm only worried about getting an auxillary input in there. So far I've found an adapter that plugs into the CD changer input on the back of the stereo, which goes for ~$175 CDN (thats around $145 US.) That's a little bit more than I'd like to pay. I haven't been able to find anything at all online that will work with the new style Malibu. If anyone has had any luck finding anything cheaper, please let me know. Also If anybody knows if the factory deck from one of the 2006 GM's with a built in 1/8th inch input might fit in my car that would be helpfull too. Sorry some of this information is repeated from my last post, I just wanted to be as clear as possible.

sgr5516 · July 2005

Had my 04 Maxx (Feb 04 build, w/18K miles) into dealer for service this week. I gave them copies of four TSB's, they had car 3 days and took care of all my problems, even paid for rental for 2nd/3rd day. No questions asked. They drove car a total of 30 mi to verify everything OK. All I paid for was Schedule 2 Maintenance (6K since last Maint, oil life was down to 15%). Everything else was covered under warranty.
1) Have always had lead/left pull. They realigned at 9K (I paid), then again at 10K when drive link was replaced in trans to correct howling. Still had left pull. This time they realigned again and recalibrated the electric steering sensors. Car now drives straight for the first time.
2) Warped Rotors - They machined front rotors for 2nd time and back rotors for first time. Problem gone for now. If they warp again (and they probably will), I hope it happened before 36K warranty is up as they will probably have to replace the front rotors. All rotor problems are covered under new car warranty. They said they correctly torque the lug nuts, but who knows.
3) Checked A/C performance - on ride home from work in 90 degree weather, it takes a long time for outlet temp to get cold. They say it is fully charged, no codes set, outlet temp OK. I have to make sure I remember to set recirculate mode every time I use car and make sure compressor light is on.
4) Headrests and Sunroof wind deflector - they ordered the parts.

After 14 mo, I am still quite pleased with this car, and the service dept at my dealership.

beedublu · July 2005

A question about a minor problem with my 04 Maxx...

My right front turn signal is interittent. Usually, the first few miles it will give the rapid clicking indicating that there's a burnt-out bulb on that side. Then, all will be normal.

I'm wondering if a bulb can be intermittent, or is this a problem somewhere else? If it's the bulb, I can handle that repair myself. OTOH, if this might be an electrical glitch elsewhere I might as well just take it into the dealer.

It seems weird that a bulb would burn out on a car that's only 10 months/10k miles old.

skyhawk · July 2005

I am on my 3rd bulb on the left front and 2nd on the right after 16 months. The reason that it is intermittent is the filament is going and the movement over the road causes it to re-make contact. It will soon quit altogether. It is an easy fix. Just be careful of the outer shield when you flip it over as you would not want to scratch it. If you have moisture inside than it is a dealer fix.

pao · July 2005

I had the same problem..went through 3 bulbs in 12 months..the dealer replaced the entire socket under warranty....and I havent a problem since..going on 4 months now and havent had it happen again...mine was the drivers side turn signal

christinad · July 2005

I've noticed something strange happening when I start my 05 Maxx. Sometimes it seems like the starter keeps turning (is that the right word?) even after I release the key, just for a split second. It's hard to replicate. Any ideas?

tonyp14 · July 2005

I took my car into the dealer for the recall notice (accelerator) and the annual (PA.)inspection was due also. The car has 14754 miles (in 2 years) The serv dept. informs me that the rotors and pads have to be replaced...when I questioned the relatively low mileage-I was told "the rotors are made lighter to reduce the vehice weight". I called GM and the cust serv girl (Kellie) suggested maybe it was my lack of driving that wore the rotors...not a wise thing to suggest! I answered the dealers service survey (today) we will see if they respond!

sgr5516 · July 2005

This is by design on the 04/05 Malibu. The start sequence is electronically controlled. You just have to turn key to start momentarily and release the key. The (PCM) computer takes over. The starter will keep cranking until the engine starts. If engine does not start right away, the starter will stop cranking after a few seconds so it does not overheat.

christinad · July 2005

Hmmm..I could buy that answer, but it still seems like it's continuing even after it's cranked. Just for a quick second, but it's noticeable to everyone in the car.

sgr5516 · July 2005

Regardless of what your dealer or GM told you, rotors are covered under the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. Rotors are not listed under the "not covered" maintenance section of the warranty. If rotors thickness varies due to lateral run out (LRO) the pads will wear out much faster. During warranty period, if you experience pulsing or vibration when stopping, the dealer should machine the rotors to eliminate the LRO. If rotor goes below minimum thickness or they are otherwise defective, the dealer should replace them. Once 3/36 warranty is up, you are on your own. There have been many posts on these forums concerning the cheap rotors that GM has been using. You can enter brake or rotor in the search field to get list of all the posts on brakes.

I have 04 Maxx 14mo/18Kmi & rotors have been turned twice already.

sgr5516 · July 2005

So you are saying the starting stays engaged and keeps cranking the engine for a quick second after the engine has started? I seem to recall some earlier posts on this issue for the 04 model. Not sure if that person had problem resolved. Since you have 05 model, your computer should have latest calibrations. I'd say have dealer check it out, but in my experience, if they can't duplicate the problem, they won't investigate further. Good Luck.

beedublu · July 2005

Thanks for the advice, but this is an "easy fix"?

I went out and tried it: First, I had to empty my tool bench in order to find a socket wrench that would fit the (apparently) metric fasteners that hold the headlamp assembly in place. Then, I had to balance the thing so that it wouldn't "scratch the vehicle with the lamp or the lamp with the fender", as the manual says...while also trying not to drop the whole assembly (which would probably rip the wiring harness out).

And how, pray tell do you remove the covers that let you access the bulbs? The manual makes it sound so simple: "Remove the rubber covers from the individual sockets", they say. How? There's no diagram. (And I notice that the instructions for taillight replacement are only for the sedan...I presume the Maxx requires dealer service).

This headlight design has to be the dumbest thing about this car (with the exception of those rear sunshades).

Anyway, I have an appointment with the dealer for Friday...arghhh. I knew this car was too good to be true; I hope I don't have to go through this over a simple bulb replacement every 10 months. :mad:

skyhawk · July 2005

The wiring harness has a disconnect. It took a little fiddling to get it apart. I then took the assembly and laid it on a towel on a bench. I pressed down on the cover and turned it and it opened. I have spare bulbs in the console as I will leave on an extended trip in September. I have a small adjustable wrench that I use to remove the antenna before I go thru a car wash when I travel. It worked fine in removing the two bolts for the light.

townhome · July 2005

I was one of the posters on this topic w/ my 04 Maxx. The problem went away about 6 months ago, whether on it's own or because of a TSB I had the dealer do, I can't say. Except, a few weeks ago, it happened once again. I don't have any proof, but I think it's related to the intermittent hard starting problem. I know the PCM update was supposed to correct that (and the occassional rough idle) but it doesn't seem to be any different. I haven't bothered to take it back to the dealer because it doesn't interfere with the daily driving of my Maxx, which I still love after almost one year of ownership!

joe3891 · July 2005

Rotors are a normal wear after 12-12, it is there factory,they make the rules.

sgr5516 · July 2005

I was only restating what I read in the 12+ page TSB GM has issued for Brake Warranty Service and Procedures. It covers all GM passenger cars and light duty trucks 1999-2005. The number is 00-05-22-002E last revised 3/10/05 to add 2005 model year. It states brake rotors warranty is covered for 3 years / 36K miles. My dealer resurfaced the rotors at 14 - 18 on my 04 Maxx and it was covered under the warranty. Perhaps some some dealers have their own policies.

mondo1 · July 2005

I have had a popping and clicking noises from my brakes when I press on the brake pedal. Today I took my caliper and brake pad holder off on the right side. I cleaned and inspected the caliper and pad holder with no problems. However when I inspected the rotor I noticed what looks like hard spots. The hard spots look like slightly raised areas on the rotor surface extending in a radial fashion. The raised spots look brighter that the rest of the rotor. I also have uneven worn pads from rust on the outer edge of the rotor. It looks like they put junk rotors on so there is no sense in turning them because the rotor will end up the same way. This looks like the cause of many peoples unending cycle of bad brake problems. Has GM thrown in some cheapo rotors? Does this seem like the problem many others are having here as well?

joe3891 · July 2005

Thanks for the infor on 00-05-22-002E I am going to look into that. More than one dealer has stated 12-12 on brakes, this will be interesting.

globe199 · July 2005

I have a 99 Cutlass with the infamous A/C controller problem. Mine may be a bit different, however. I've never noticed the recirculate light blink -- only the A/C light. It will work for a few minutes, and then cut off and on until I kill it myself.

Three years ago, I had the controller replaced, so this one has lasted that long. I remember using it this past May and it worked fine. Seems like the problem only crops up during warmer weather (it's 90 right now).

Also, I noticed (the first time I had the problem), that turning the defrost on would NOT fix the problem. I was thinking the A/C button itself was faulty, but that wasn't the case. I could still hear the compressor clicking on and off with defrost selected (and A/C not turned on). To me, that points to a more electronic problem, not a "dirty button" or "contact" problem.

Is this typical? Has anyone actually done the cleaning technique described in that PDF? Any help is appreciated! Thanks.

Globe199

jmax4 · July 2005

My Maxx has started to experience the same steering wheel pulsing while slightly turned right and/or stopped a few weeks ago.
What does it indicate? Is there a fix for it?
The car has 10,160 miles and was built in Jan.2004.

Other than that I have noticed a very light clunking noise while driving on uneven surface and break squeal at low speeds (15-30 mph.)
:confuse:

The sunshades don't give me any more problems and stay in place all the time.

pao · July 2005

dont know if that is any indication of the steering column issue associated with the early 04 build Maxx's or not...there is a TSB on the steering column..which is a replacement..believe it requires a wheel alignment again as well as a sensor calibration issue on the column...all under warranty....you can probably do a search in the forum for steering column replacement for the details...there are also several PCM updates available....

My Maxx still running well....Feb 04 build....purchased in Mar 04...and about to roll over 31K ......still loving the car!

Chevrolet Malibu: Problems & Solutions

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