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Mine has never done this. I watch the guage closely and would know if it did. I had an 03 lemon that went all the way to the red, so I've watched closely ever since. Two or three times a week my 04 will go half or three-quarters between half and the red-zone after getting off the highway and driving through the city. Won't go down until I let the car cool off. Always produces a rough idle.
Ron Humphrey
Russell
Russell
The transmission had an output seal leaking from the tranny, GM replaced the seal.The gear shift button wasn't shift the gears when you put into low gear ,manually shift the trany up and down. Problem was a broken pink wire under the shifter assembly. Fixed, no charge. Also have this annoying extended crank time with this car. The starter stays engaged even after the engine is started, about 1-1.5 seconds, only does it once every fifty starts.
Found a service bulletion from someone on this fourm. Seems that with the 3.5,3.9 v6 GM reprograms the PCM , released 02/05/2006, 02 08/2006 in Canada.
Things like a front marker light that wouldn't always stay on , adjustable petals that decided to stop when we were picking up the new car, 10 km, loose fuse. Stuff like this .
Russell LS
I used shrink tubing on the plastic pins. Just be sure not to overheat with the heat gun if you decide to use shrink tubing. I'm darned if I know why the dealer cannot handle a little problem like that.
The Audi, VW, and Cobalt (who stole the idea from VW) use hydraulic bushings that help get rid of this jiggle.
I would say that based on your evaluation assuming that the exterior lamps are not working that it most likely sounds like a body computer since that is the only common link.
I just received another mailing from GM regarding the various Basic/Value/Major Guard extended warranties and I'm trying to make up my mind on this.
My 04 Maxx LS has just under 20000 miles and seems to be running great. It was built in June 04, which presumably means that it's not part of the "Steering Column Problem generation", and I've had a fairly short list of repair issues: Inaccurate fuel gauge/tank replacement, wacky cruise control failure, and a front turn signal connector that went bad. Also, Check Engine light that lit up due to some pinched emission hose.
Everything seems to have been resolved as of last fall, and I'm thinking that maybe I should just leave the $$ in the bank or mutual fund, and if something big goes haywire I can just break the old piggy bank, so to speak.
Does anyone have any helpful thoughts as I mull this over?
Don't try hooking anything up to center high mounted stop lamp wire.
So what should I do? Parts are on order for other problems so it will be going in soon. Should I tell them upfront I'm not going to take "Cannot duplicate" for an answer? They need to at least check the flow of all injectors and the spark plug tips, right? It seems to be worst after coming off of a 20 minute highway trip and then doing city driving and idling.
So they poked around and figured out that the circuit breaker was faulty. Ordered a new one and had it installed, we'll see if it works.
Pao, are you still using Mike Pallone in Springfield? I just moved from Alexandria out to Ashburn, I'll probably start using Koons for service now. I ended up totally unimpressed with Pallone. I've had chronic brake problems with my 04 Maxx LS 1SB. It has 19k and is on its second set of front rotors, and the first set were resurfaced THREE times. Pallone actually broke one trying to resurface.
Anyway, now with the new rotors, 2k in and they feel terrible. They're vibrating pretty badly. The Service Advisor at Pallone told me before the new rotors were installed that the problem was that we drove in stop and go traffic too much and we should adjust our driving style. I nearly lost it with him. How ridiculous is that? There's nothing wrong with our driving style, we don't ride the brake or anything like that and my Intrigue never had these kind of brake problems (though 39k in and its had just about everything else you can think of go wrong). Anyway, I felt like pointing out to him that my neighbor's Accord drives in the same traffic every day without incident, so perhaps the problem was crappy rotors rather than driver problems. Eventually, their mechanics decided that the rotors were faulty and replaced them under warranty, so I was validated, but that didn't sit right with me.
Now, here we go again...I understand WHY its happening (heat, cooling unevenly, etc), but I don't understand why GM keeps on putting the same crap rotors on over and over again.
I tell you, I'm a big believer in the design of the Maxx, but the quality of my Intrigue and the Maxx are leading me to look longingly at the 06 Accord EX V6. I have a 7/72k GMPP on the Maxx, and I'm glad I got it.
To repeat, My Maxx developed a bad rotor pulsation and I then discovered wheel bolts severely over and undertorqued thanks to shoddy dealer work - I immediately corrected that with my own torque wrench. When my tires were replaced for better rain traction, the shop used a micrometer torque wrench that keeps torque values very consistant.
5000 miles of driving with properly torqued wheels has made the brake pulsation go away.
Russell
I too would have walked..when he stated the driving style....whenever the tires are rotated..I always come home and immediately check the torque..to make sure they are correct...most times they are not....but also agree I beleive the rotors are of inferior quality....
Russell :shades:
Does any one know the correct bolt size and has anyone up sized the rim and wheels for this car.
Russell :shades:
Russell :shades:
Perhaps the rear rotors are more suseptable to overtorquing ??
I have a 1990 Beretta, it has this corrision condition between the hub,steel discs and drums, and the Aluminium wheels . That's why I say my 06 Malibu doesn't have STEEL DISC BRAKES because in August 2005 at(17000 K),when I cleaned the rims while rotating the tires there wasn't any corrsion on the rear hub and wheel.Only on the front disc and wheel. This leads me to believe that the rear discs are an Alloy metal. GM was probably trying to save weight by using Alloy discs. The rear brakes only do about 25-35% of the stopping so they don't generate alot of heat.The rear discs are approx 1/2 inch thick solid with NO vents! Someone hopefully will make a after market vented disc to increase braking performance.
Does the 06 SS Malibu have a vented rear disc brake?
Russell :shades:
See here - http://www.singletrackworld.com/article.php?sid=558&mode=&order=0
Very few vehicles have vented rear disc and very few even need them. The Cadillac 2007 Escalade has no vented rear disc, at $57,280 a copy.
It was in the evening when I rotated the tires,Low light, I was in a rush and didn't fully investage the type of material in the rotors. They looked to be Alloy in appearance. It's amazing that the Large SUV don't have vented rear rotors. The manufactures are being cheap by using a soild rotor!
Russell
The ChampCars use a High Temp Vented Steel disc, they use temperature sensative paint on the outside on the vents. It goes from white to pink and then to a hotpink indicating excessive temps so they can adjust that amount of cooling to the brakes.
Russell :shades:
Reverse lights are likely OK to hook up. However you are running that off a 10 Amp fuse and there are already 2 bulbs on it from vehicle - I think they only draw about 3 Amps total but you have to keep that in mind.
I remove mine in winter so I don't damage it when removing snow from roof or going through car wash (which I rarely do). I believe it sits about 3 inches above the roof. I have no problem getting a sponge and chamois under it to keep it clean. When you hose off the soap or when it rains, any water that accumulated under it will drain into the car by the flat clips.
The window system has drainage channels between the headliner and the roof. The channels drain any water that gets in through hoses that route to the outside through the front and rear pillars.
The acrylic deflector definitely cuts down on wind noise and you do lose about 1/4 to 1/3 of the opening. But I'd rather give up some opening that deal with the noise. I do a lot of highway driving.
The interior ceiling of my Maxx has a foam molding along the edges by the driver and passenger side doors. It runs the width of the ceiling between the two interior lights. It's a big rectangular shape. It's about as wide and long as a sunroof would be. The thing is I don't have a sunroof or side curtain airbags. When sitting in the driver's seat the short side to this foam molding runs over my head. I can reach up and feel it. Anyone noticed this? Why do they use this? I'm 6'4" so headroom is important. Fortunately there's plenty of headroom so I'm happy. It's just odd. Why wouldn't the roof be more smooth and flat?
My car does not have the M shift option that allows me to shift gears while driving. Yet, the shifter has a +/- button on it that is obviously meant to be used in this type of situation.
Suggestions for future models:
1.Reduce the width of the two rear pillars to reduce the blind spots.
2. Kill the beeping sound that the CD changer makes when loading/unloading CD's.
3. Pressing the "source" or "band" buttons turns on the CD player or the radio.
4. Two level armrest. My girlfriend's Altima has this. You press a button on the armrest and it raises up. Great for taller folks like me.
Was the roof structure of the MAXX changed in '06?
Up here in Canada I have limited amount dealers who know or have any decent rims too choose from. Thanks again
Russell