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She has about 4 days left that she can return it, and my question is should she? I am obviously pushing for her to return it and get something more reliable, but I'm looking to you guys for some help. Is this car a gamble? Has anyone owned a Honda/Toyota and a Chevy/Ford? Is there a comparison that you can show me in order to convince me that she'll be safe, comfortable, and better off with the Malibu???
Thanks in advance! I'd love to hear the success/failure stories!
Get issue to occur again. DO NOT use cruise control again until dealer can look at vehicle - to maintain "history"
1. Have dealer check for any diagnostic trouble codes (in any module).
2. Have dealer check the Cruise Disable history in PCM. This stores the last 6 reasons the cruise control was disabled/shut off. This is why you want to avoid using cruise control after having issue to maintain that reason as most recent - or at least in the last 6.
Good luck
She didn't have the option of the Maxx. And she needs basic reliable transportation. Can the Chevy do it, or will silly repairs for the things I keep reading about overcome the price difference very quickly? Is there any engineering differences (suspension, brakes, motor, tranny) between a 4cyl Maxx and a 4cyl Malibu? Do they make a 4-cyl Maxx may be a better question...
Consumer reports rates the suspension reliability as a full black circle, aka awful. My '93 Civic with 100k has a bad ball joint, but if the Malibu lasts 13 years I have a feeling I'd be impressed...
Anyone know if the 2.2L Eco-tec motor is any good??
The Ecotec is the easiest engine to maintain. It uses a drop in oil filter that sits up front so that you can get at it by just opening the hood. There are no spark plug wires and the plugs are easy to get at. Do not by the way leave them in for 100,000 miles because being an aluminum head the plugs will freeze to the head. This goes for all aluminum heads. Take the plugs every 25000 miles or so and check them. A bit of anti-seize on the plug threads will also help.
There is adequate power and I get up to 37mpg on the highway. The Ecotec engine is GM's universal engine and powers Opels, Vauxhauls, Holdens, Saabs and Saturns amongst others. It has been used since about 2001 as far as I can recall. There are no known issues.
If you want a versatile car, the Maxx is that. If you want a __reliable__ car, go Toyota.
Naturally, in my frustration, I kept trying to get it to work today on the way to work...and true to Murphy's law, it worked fine. And yes, I disabled it more than 6 times, so I guess I just have to wait for it's next malfunction before I have the dealer look at it.
As I caused each to occur I could see the reasons pushed down in the "stack" of 6. Only thing I am a little unsure of is if there is any time limit where it might "clear memory". I will have to play around a little with that and report back later this week.
Keep in mind that even just applying the normal (service) brake is a reason for disabling cruise from the PCM perspective and that 6 consecutive cruise disables during normal driving by applying brakes would fill up buffer.
This disable history is the absolute first thing that should be checked when a cruise "drop-out" like you described is encountered. When technician finds the reason "why" the next troubleshooting step of course is to "root cause" what could have caused that reason to occur.
How odd. Why would the PCM need a stack to "store" these events?
Would simply turning off the cruise control by way of the steering wheel controls "purge" the stack buffer?
Or does one have to stop the engine (ignition switch to off) to purge the buffer?
OK, so as I understand it, the next time it malfunctions I should leave things exactly as they were: Leave On/Off switch (left side of steering wheel) in its last position and no further attempts to set or resume the last speed (with the right rocker switch).
Again, thanks for the quick response.
Yes the LED CHMSL is driven directly by the BCM. It it is provided battery power. The actual value depends on underhood temperature, state of charge of battery and electrical load on vehicle. Typically it would be higher than 12 volts when the engine is running (more likely between 13-14 volts). Since the CHMSL is in the back of the vehicle there is a bit of a voltage drop in wiring but not too much since an LED CHMSL has a very small electrical draw.
There are diagnostic reasons which might cause your CHMSL not to work (it sounds like you know your other brake lights are still functional - that is good thing to look at first which isolates issue). If you have a situation where your CHMSL doesn't seem to work please check and see if your cruise control will engage or not and report back.
I saw your other post - I hope you didn't try to hook a trailer lamp to the CHMSL feed - that would not be a good idea and would likely cause a problem.
Thanks,
Even if you inadvertently turn on cruise control and have a D'OH! moment, not a problem as long as you don't do it more than 5 times before taking to dealer.
On the vehicle I am monitoring I intentionally caused an unusual cruise disable condition and am going to try to remember not to engage cruise on my commute and check a few times a day to make sure the disable history persists for a while.
I might also ask someone a little more knowledgable about this than me so I am not doing this purely by experimentation method
I don't want to bore you with details but the reason I asked to have cruise operation checked is that if the BCM is intentionally disabling the output that controls CHMSL for diagnostic reasons you will also find that cruise control is inoperative. If cruise does work but your CHMSL still inop then the problem is most likely CHMSL itself or the wiring to it.
Just an easy check before going to dealer
I looked at and drove the Maxx but we dont have alot of rear seat passengers so we opted for the sedan since I just couldnt bring myself to accept the looks of the Maxx from the outside. GM missed the mark on that one, its one ugly car. Of course that's MY opinion so you Maxx owners...take it easy! But I agree, the interior is amazing!
The ratings are good on the 05 and newer Malibu, and I love the car so far. GMs have always been good to me and I dont like the feel of Japanese cars. Even just based on drivability and feel I'd choose it over Subaru, Honda, Toyota....but not Nissan. The Altima was the only car I tested that I liked better, but the cost was way beyond the Malibu.
Drive the car, see how you like it. I cant speak for the 4, mine has the V6, a perfect match for this size of car.
Unfortunately Saab 9-3's have a terrible reliability record, far worse than the Maxx.
I would say that the cable between your shifter and ignition switch might need adjustment. Make sure your shifter is going all the way into PARK and if it is and still having problem then have dealer look at adjusting the shift interlock cable.
I don't know how to adjust cable on the Classic - likely similar to new body style but that would just be a guess.
Catching up saw post 3195 fix for bouncing headlight. Is this the fix or does the dealer have a replacement headlight?
Squeeking from the driver's seatbelt at the side of the seat. Is there a once and final fix or do I just keep lubing it?
24k miles, commuting 26mpg now at 24mpg with 10% ethanol.
Best mileage 36mpg on cruise at 68mph, mobil1 5w30, clean air filters. Once to dealer not to long ago for a belated flash for the idle - no difference maybe better mpg.
Tirerack bounced from bridgestone turanza to bfg comp ta and back to bridgestone tires. One poster in Iowa loves the comp TA, thinking of that tire soon. Any body change one for the other because of dissatisfaction?
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The howling chain is 5/8 inch and proper chain is 7/8 inch. I think some bean counter thought the cheaper 5/8 chain would do the job, wrong. For an engine with 200 HP and 220 FT LB of torque I would go with the 7/8 inch chain.
Is there a common procedure to do with idle that's supposed to be done? I have noticed my 3.5 isnt a real smooth idler.
I solved the problem by enlarging the locating pins by putting shrink tubing over them and getting the pins to fit tightly into the locating holes. If you carefully remove the headlight assembly you will see what I mean.
I have the 4cyl. 2004 Malibu and have had the steering column replaced under recall - no failure with old one. Intermittent no-start condition was fixed with software update. Now and again a weird electrical problem crops up but clears when the car is restarted - so far I have never been stranded. Mileage can be up to 37mpg on the highway which is borne out by gallons it takes to fill so the calculations on the display are correct.
All in all, I am happy with the car. The Ecotec engine may seem small but I find for me at least, it has adequate power. By the way, it is the smoothest 4cyl. I have driven which is no doubt due to the double balance shafts in the engine which counteract vibration. The engine runs like a turbine. Being all aluminum the power to weight ratio is also very good. In fact the 4cyl. has lighter front springs than the 6cyl.
Just checking yesterday noticed that the hose clamps on the intake tubes/ducts had dirt in front of the hose clamps (and since the CRD makes you tighten everything when you finish the build process that started in Toledo) the hose clamps all needed a little tightening after2 years but I don't know yet if that did anything - better half commuted today and saw the dic mpg go up.
And yes, this is the best vehicle we have ever owned. No more fords or chrysler (import dealers leave a lot to be desired - and apparently some dcx dealers too)products. I am hoping for one heck of a Trailblazer body on frame update with a good push rod engine.
That sound it weird to me, but anyway, days later ny turn signals stopped working (left & right), so today at 8:00am took in my Malibu to the dealer with letter on hand, dropped of the Malibu. I then received a phone call at 11:45am that they found the Turn Signal Flasher to be bad and a Lower Intake Cooler leak, all covered under warranty, or else it would of been a $900.00 dollar repair bill.
So will see how it goes.
Strangely, they appeared to work normal once I turned off and restarted.
Appreciate the help.
2005 Malibu Sedan
Joe
Even though this might be "just a bulb" I would recommend you take to dealer to look at it. You might want to suggest to dealer that TSB #06-08-42-004A might be applicable.
Thanks ...
I think we have discussed the operation in forum a couple times before so instead of replaying that information can you provide more details on your "scenerio"?
What model year vehicle do you have?
When you last had shut off the vehicle what was approx temperature?
When you started vehicle did you use remote start or key?
How long was the vehicle ignition off before you started vehicle?
How long were you driving when you still thought display inaccurate?
How far had you driven?
How fast were you driving?
Any of this make any sense? Thanks e2helper.
This morning I had the same thing happen, so I drove it to the dealership. Mentioned the TSB # you gave me. Dealer was aware of the problem. They only fixed it temporarily for now, though (replaced bulb according to the report), as the new parts as per TSB (a socket I think?) aren't in yet.
The vehicle tries very hard to avoid getting fooled by engine compartment temperature by preventing an increase in temperature display when the vehicle is stationary or has been off a short amount of time. The engine compartment gives off a lot of heat so it is important that this stuff be filtered out.
The ignition-off timer is a few (3?) hours and so if vehicle had sat for over that time I would expect on start-up it would pick up with current temperature. A vehicle start with remote start is only thing would affect that (which is why I asked).
But if you were off only 1-2 hours then it will start up displaying temperature when vehicle was last shut off and only after driving for a "certain" amount of time above a "certain" speed the temperature display would be allowed to increase to what the sensor is actually reading.
The longer the vehicle sat with ignition off the shorter the wait. Unfortunately I don't understand the specifics well enough to give you any more details than that (such as how far typically in stop/go city driving it would take).
However if you are only making a 5 minutes drive I am pretty sure that you would not get to the point where the system would allow display to increase unless you were immediately driving at 40 MPH the entire time. And even then it might only start changing right at the end of that 5 minutes (and there is filtering on how fast it can increase display temperature).
Another vehicle shut off cycle and short drive would just start the cycle all over again.
Appreciate the help!
My wife was driving our car this morning and when she came back the radio wasn't working. We own a malibu 4ds 2002 and so far it was all ok. THe radio screen is locked and I can't turn it off. It says SCAN and thats all. Further, the warning sound doesn't work and also I can't lock the doors. If you could help me out I would appreciate it.
Thank you
thnx
It's disgusting to think that 50 years into the microelectronic age we're still having issues that were solved 49 years ago.
It took me two trips to the dealer to resolve this one.
Good luck to you on your problem. My 2004 Malibu is flawless.