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Unlock car with fob. Insert key into ignition lock and turn key to crank engine. Engine cranks but does not start. Release key after 5 seconds or so and engine stops cranking. With a normal start the computer takes over and cranks the engine even though you release the key. I try cranking the engine again but it does not start. On occasion the engine barely turns over. Sometimes it sounds like a flat battery. The no-start condition happens more often after a short drive when I might take a trip to the store and then back home again.
Now I take the key out of the ignition lock and while sitting in the drivers seat, use the fob and press the door lock button. Then I unlock the doors using the fob, insert the ignition key back into the ignition lock and crank the engine. The engine spins up and starts. I've tried just removing the key from the ignition lock and inserting it again but that does not help. I have to lock and unlock the car.
Wrt power steering glitches, sorry to say my steering columm failed last week, right at 10000 miles. Service center verified pulsing during turns and declared car undriveable (provided free rental and is in process of replacing columm).
wrt cruise controls' continual hunting between third and fourth on hills, the service center has experienced the same on many Malibus and sadly there is no fix.
Have also noticed parcel shelf is getting squeaky over bumps - temporary cure was to put in lower position where shock towers squeeze it harder and keep it from shifting. And, sadly, some rattles are showing up in the dash.
Still good car, but durability is a concern.
I have to think about this. You have me stumped right now.
You have a V6 engine, correct?
How often does this happen?
When you have the crank no start condition if you leave the key in ignition with the ignition ON is the Theft Deterent Telltale in instrument cluster illuminated?
Probably I am going back to your original post topic with that last question.
Anyway, thanks a lot.
If it does happen again in near future please leave the ignition ON for a short amount of time after the failed start and observe what telltales might be staying on (FYI - the Check Engine Light SHOULD be on when the engine is not running) and if the odometer is reading correct mileage.
I am especially interested if the Theft Telltale is on or off under these conditions and if you have correct odometer display. The odometer function isn't critical for starting of course but if it is displaying something other than the mileage that would be interesting.
Have you ever had Check Engine Light stay on when engine is running?
Thanks
It's just the now and again no-start situation that is spoiling a perfect performance.
When you shut off the ignition and get ready to leave the vehicle do you see any immediate activation of the theft deterrent telltale in cluster before you try to lock the doors?
Just curious.
driver's continue to flash their high beams at me at night, presumably because they think my high beams are on. When I demonstrate to them that they are not, they turn their lights down to normal. Has anyone else had drivers flash their lights? I do think the Maxx/Bu's lights are superior; perhaps other driver's are jealous???
While not build quality equal of the Maxx, its cruise control really works. Driving hills, the cruise will put transmission in "porportional mode" (slip torque converter between 4th and 3rd gear) to let the car handle hills smoothly.
The MAXX cruise control just bangs back and forth between 4th and 3rd - very annoying. The service manager handling my car also drives a Maxx and has reported the same cruise control glitch.
No I am very sure this will not cause any problems
I do bump starts it ALL the time. In fact when I get into a vehicle that doesn't allow it I am annoyed I have to hold the ignition switch in the crank position.
Keep us posted on vehicle. I bet it (Air Bag light) comes back again.
In Europe they are so concerned with this they require headlamp leveling systems.
Is there a way of resetting the codes or this message without taking it to the dealer? If this happens again I don't want to have to take it all the way in just to have them reset it.
Thanks,
Nick
I saw somewhere else where you said you bought your Maxx in February. If that is the case there is a potential that there is a new calibration for your powertrain controller that might help out on your 3-4 shift concern. It came out in early May 2005 and here is description of what it changed:
"New calibration with diagnostic enhancements for DTC P0340. Also improvements for starting, idle quality, and shift stabilization affecting 3-4 upshift."
Sounds like last item might address your concern
I know this was addressed before but couldnt find the thread...as has been mentioned here..there are several new calibration updates...why wouldnt a dealer note the production date of the vehicle and cross reference the lastest calibration enhancements and automatically reprogram the car....instead of an informed consumer having to ask about it and requesting it be done?
I am not sure how many days elapsed between you finding your gas cap loose and when you took the vehicle back to the dealer. However once you "fixed" the vehicle by tightening the gas cap I believe the Check Gas Cap message would display on subsequent ignition cycles until the test ran again and passed successfully (it MIGHT actually have to do this 3 time - I am checking on this). This requires the engine to be started after cooling down and you to have fuel tank within a certain range (not full or empty).
So this message would have gone away on its own assuming you found the cause of the problem, which in your case sounds like you did. It just didn't have enough time to clear out on its own.
I am checking on this 1 time vs. 3 time thing.
Thanks for the question
once again would like to compliment you on your assistance and help here from the manufacturer side.. I believe I noted you had been involved in this project since its inception..so nice to know...you are still in it to see a good product is provided to us...I for one am extremely pleased with my maxx...02/05 build...but the steering column issue is a concern....yet as of now not noted as an problem with my car
You have a good memory. I have been involved with this product for quite some time (you would not believe how long, LOL) and hope to stay with it.
So far I have found this forum to be the most informative one for customer comments and so am glad to share my knowledge where I can. I am here is an unofficial capacity, of course.
In regards to your vehicle, it is possible it was built with an updated column. It was right in that timeframe, I believe.
I also received confirmation that service technicians do have a tool available to get informed about new calibrations but I am not sure in this case how much information is actually provided (i.e., whether it says the calibration would address this concern).
Hope that helps
In addition to the heavy push on the brake to disengage it that I wrote about in a previous post, I'm also dismayed by the slam-bam operation of the thing on anything remotely resembling a hill. I was driving on Route 17 in Southern New York State and on one long upgrade that curved to the right it downshifted so abruptly that it almost pulled me into the left lane. I think there's a potential safety issue here, almost worth reporting to NHTSA.
I think the dash and power window/lock switch illumination and is well executed, too.
The tank was between 1/2 and 3/4 full. It happened the first time (and I tightened the cap) early Thursday morning. I took it to the dealer on Friday morning. I know that I started it more than 3 times after fixing the cap. When I took it in it was still coming on. When I picked the car up it was still at least half full and they said they had reset the message. It didn't show up any more.
I'm just wondering what they did to reset it that would be different from it resetting itself after a certain number of ignition cycles.
Thanks again,
Nick
what is the build date on your car...e2helper stated there was a new calibration enhancement out in May 04..that may address the shifting issue you are probably referring too, it is supposed to improve shift stablization as well as a few other things......you may find it back a few messages....it is DTC P0340
lets see the most popular color of your 04/05 Maxx
So it is now with modern cars. There seem to be never ending patches and fixes for their computers. And never ending computer crashes.
The latest I've read about is the integration of the radio/CD player/display into the overall operating system of the car. So if you want to upgrade to a better entertainment system you must extend the connections of the existing system into the trunk and stash it there in order to keep the car running. Then you rewire your new system into the dash. Lord help us all!
But not only ignition cycles but ignition cycles during which the diagnostic runs again. So likely it might only run the test each morning the first time you take vehicle for a drive (because that is the only time engine starts off cold). Your experience might indicate it does require 3 successful test cycles. I will post back after I find out if that is true.
When the dealer clears codes in module they basically wipe out history on faults immediately which is why they can do it so much faster.
I visited the GM calibration site mentioned earlier here, put in my VIN and apparently all the codes on my 2004 Maxx LS are up to date (the bullets were as far along the graphs as they could be).
So apparently the Maxx Cruise Control is malfunctioning normally. Too bad.
GM has the ability to do a good cruise control (both a Chevy Trailblazer and Saturn ION I drove worked fine) - perhaps someday GM will have a fix for the Mailbu.
As for the power steering pulsing/ self steering, it is pretty much gone now that the steering columm has been replaced.
Only other worry is the transmission - have not heard the howl some other posters have mentioned but am keeping a ear open.
And yes, the proportional control feature is hard to engage.
this seems to be an issue on early build models...a resonance sound develops when accelerating on a hill and shifting out of 1st and 2nd as I recall..there is a TSB out..I believe they replace a pinion gear anyone else pls comment here as well.....Im one if it doesnt bother you...dont fix it personally ..I have a 02/04 build maxx and I havent noticed the concern on mine....look on the inside of the drivers door for you build date
Adjusted Park Lock Cable as per service bulletin. Sorry for the mistake. Thanks pao for the comparison on rattles. Actually ,I was just trying to shed some ideas as to some of these mysterious rattles that some have reported as happening at certain times and then are gone. Plastics are subject to temperature changes and depending on the time of the day expansions and contractions do come into play. May be just enough to cause some rattles. Actually even though I noticed some flexing, I must say the Maxx is pretty quiet:-)
This "Check Gas Cap" message and code DOES reset after only 1 successful pass of test. However several conditions are required to run test: a "cold start" between a certain temperature window and vehicle has to be driven for at least 10 minutes. So you likely did not see those conditions when you drove to dealer that morning. I bet if you had driven the vehicle for a few trips during that weekend it would have fixed itself by the Monday morning commute (sorry).
I don't have any first-hand experience with what additional information the serial data tool Autozone uses to give you a Powertrain Fault Code check. Maybe someone else has used that service and knows if you can get any information beyond codes?
Now if you had OnStar activated in your vehicle.......wonder if they would tell you anything? I know they can read codes in your vehicle but not sure what they will tell customer.
Their goal is to solve simple problems. Beyond that they will only tell you if the problem is urgent enough to head straight to the dealer, or get there when you can. Their goal isn't to be able to walk drivers through fixing their own cars.
The last of the VIN is 170348. I am not sure if the PCM calbrations are current
The issues are:
1. Rough idle at times. Not bad enough to rock the car, but enough that you notice a vibration at idle.
2. Burnt rubber smell is strong, especially in warmer weather. Dealer can't find any reason for it.
3. Rear passenger window wouldn't go up using the driver side control until the back switch was used a few times (not able to recreate)
4. Engine died going downhill in L2 gear. Called Onstar and they logged the event, and did a check and saw nothing wrong (not able to recreate)
5. After starting and turning engine off after a few moments, a rapid squeak is heard that slows down and stops about 5 seconds after the engine is turned off
ALSO, any idea what date of manufacturing GM switched to the corrected steering columns in production? I would like to know if I am going to expect problems as has been reported in this forum many times.
Ideas? Thanks!
The powertrain calibration in your vehicle is definitely older one (I think by 2 revisions) so there might be some improvement in idle using it but probably would need to compare how yours runs to another vehicle.
I don't know about burnt rubber smell. I think I saw someone mention the accessory drive belt as having a funny odor due to material it is made out of but don't remember "type" of smell.
The driver side switch only works on passenger windows when the passenger switch is in the rest position. Not sure if that helps but see if it happens again.
No idea on other stuff