Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

xwesx · August 2006

Too much voltage. They operate via resistor, so either there is not enough resistance in the resistor (sensor went bad) or there is too much voltage going into the resistor. They typically work on an "X-" system where X is the amount of voltage that should be feeding into the sensor. If X is greater than standard, then the output will read high even if the resistor is working properly. Depending on how robust the sensors are or how much additional voltage was feeding them, the resistors could have blown and may not be functioning at all now. I would plan on replacing the sending units, but not until you determine the cause of failure in the first place so as not to repeat the process!

If both sensors started doing this simultaneously, then I would look for a problem upstream somewhere. Perhaps your voltage regulator has gone haywire? Not sure how the '87 wiring system is set up, though, so you would have to get feedback from someone else on specifics....

rojo87 · August 2006

Thanks for the response. I thought a short circuit too, so I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. No change, temp gauge still pegged on max. Now I'm thinking the gauge is the problem.

nickm4 · August 2006

A month ago my RPM gauge started to read wrong i think thats a vacumn leak but a week after i found that problem I lost all power to my wheels. I cant gain speed quick and I cant feel my torque anymore. does aanyone know what would cause this problem, i have 185,000 miles on it and it is well maintained

rchevyman · August 2006

In The Morning It Is Very Hard To Start, And This Just Started To Happen, And After About Five Or Six Times It Starts, And Then It Runs Fine All Day Long, And I Notice If I Am Going 30Miles An Hour And Kick In Passing Gear It Drops Down In Passing Gear And Whines Up RPM. I Let Off The Gas And It Kicks Back In.I Don't Know If It Is A Mass Air Flow Or Truck Throtle Position Sensor Or A Truck Speed Sensor.

Thanks if Any Body Has Any Information On This, Write back,
ChevyMan

greatship · August 2006

u need to replace the senor revicer on temp in motor that why aslo u will need replace the temp after that it will be better try that it hapend to me samwthing once it replace it run nomral

dryheat · September 2006

HELP!!! I've just had the brake & signal lights fail. No emergency flash, brake or turn signals. All bulbs/fuses checked or replaced, no help. Turn signals in dash and frontend flash very fast but, nothing at rearend. Any suggestions????

greatship · September 2006

u will need to replace the blub light in rear light and it will reun correct again

dryheat · September 2006

been there done that, have also replaced elec in taillights too!! is it possible that the module in steerin column caus'n prob?

hammerin · September 2006

I HAVE AN 88 1500 4X4 THAT I REPLACED AN ENGINE IN WITH AN 89 4 BOLT MAIN ROLLER CAM ENGINE. IT HAS A FLUTTERING IDLE IN IT NOW? JUST OFF IDLE IT STRATEN'S OUT???I HAVE REPLACED THE E.G.R. SENSOR, AND THE E.G.R. VALVE SEEM'S TO BE O.K. ? ANY ADVICE?? :confuse:

hammerin · September 2006

HAVE YOU CHECKED THE CONNECTION FROM THE COLUMN TO THE CHASSIS CONNECTION?

dryheat · September 2006

Are there 2 different connections? they went out at different times. I'll give it a look, thx.

hammerin · September 2006

should be only one connection block from the steering column, make sure all wires are seated into yhr conection, i had this happen to me and it was loose connects between them

airborne96d · September 2006

For the past few months I have been feeling these weird jerks while traveling at highway speed down a hill on my way to work. I'm doing about 2,000 RPM in overdrive and coming up off the gas when I feel it jerk. If I continue to maintain speed while just barely on the gas I can reproduce the jerking intermittently. Initially I thought that I was getting some back pressure as I have a growing exhaust leak just past the manifold (I think), but I cannot hear any variation in sound from the engine when the jerking occurs. The engine actually appears to be running smooth. This made me think that my problem was with the overdrive. Any help on this would be appreciated as I'd like to try to fix it myself.

dmehlhoff · September 2006

I have a 1986 Chevrolet C-10 Silverado 2-wheel drive pickup, 305 engine, with 180,000 miles, original owner.

The vehicle has the factory duel tanks with the duel tank switch on the dash beside the ashtray. The gas gauge will now only register 1/4 tank whether it's filled up or not, but still allows to switch tanks. There's definitely power to the switch because you can hear it trying to switch just like before when the gas gauge worked properly.

Do I need to drop both gas tanks and replace the sending units or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks, Dan

celticdaddio · October 2006

I have a 1998 C1500. I have had this truck for 3 years, and since I bought it I have had problems with the brake lights/turn signals etc. It seems like the bulbs blow every few months... so I replace them and I am on my way.... But the last time I replaced every bulb and I still have no brake lights. My backup lights work, my hazards work, my turn signals work, my taillights work, and one side of the lights on the rear, top of the cab works when I press the brake pedal work, but not the actual brake lights. Do I have a bad brake light switch? I bought one because I figured it was worth $7 to try... I haven't changed it yet because I can't figure out out to get to it to get the old one off and the new one on. The brake light switch is at the top of the brake pedal tucked away behind some bracket that sits below the stearing column.... Any suggestions on whether or not the brake light really is the problem or how to get to it to replace it?

THanks,
Ed

chevyman8 · October 2006

i have a chevy k1500 the problem is the key will not start the truck ,you have to turn the key on and then go to the starter and start it , i put a new tumber and key and that didnt work ichecked all the fuses and there good so i dont know whats next can some body help me ,or tell me how to hook the starter to a push button switch with the ignition swich on on thank you

fgjw · October 2006

I have a '99 SIERRA K1500 5.3 The TOW/HAUL switch button on the shifter arm just stopped working.Gave on indication it was going to, worked with no problems up till now. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON A FIX. THANX

brollins · October 2006

I have a 1993 2500 that does the same thing,I as well have changed the filter,pump,and sending unit.And still no luck.Did you figure out what was wrong?Thanks for your help.Ben

brollins · October 2006

This truck ran fine for a week after I bought it,then would'nt start at all.It will turn over but won't start with out putting a little gas in the injector port's.But will die if you let it fall below 1000 rpm.It has a new pump,pump relay,and sending unit,and a new ECM.I'm thinking of a new ICM or TPS,But don'nt want to 100$ this 800$ truck to death.I would appreciate any help.BEN

dschamber · October 2006

Dan, did you find out what the problem was. i have the same problem with my truck just wondering? Darren canyon country ca. email is dschamber1@socal.rr.com

jtwink · October 2006

I have 2000 1500 5.8, I am also having the same problem with my tow haul. Did you find how to fix it?

fgjw · October 2006

Have not had any luck but am still hopping for a reply with a solution. FGJW

tune · October 2006

I can't seem to accelerate in my truck, when i try it seems as if the truck wants to go fast but it is hesitant about doing so. It is a 305 engine and a few people told me that it is probably the carburetor.....what exactly is the problem, does the carb need replacing?

xwesx · November 2006

Try replacing your fuel filter first and see if that helps.

tune · November 2006

i've tried that already and it is still doing the same thing

xwesx · November 2006

Okay, describe it a little more then, will you? For example, is it a pinging, slow acceleration or more of a hesitation/surge cycle? More details are better....

dispencer1 · November 2006

I have an '86 Silverado with cracks in the padded dash. I have the official Chevy service manual but can't find any information for removing the dash and replacing it. I understand that there is another manual with information on replacing "major components". Does anyone have this manual and does it cover dash removal? Should I purchase one for my cosmetic restoration job on this truck? Any help would be welcome. Another question - Is it difficult to replace the bulbs for the instrument cluster by just removing the outer plastic (silver) panel that has exposed screws?

tune · November 2006

its more of a hesitation/surge cycle.....its really kind of hard to describe w/o being able to experience yourself....but i believe we are on the same page

xwesx · November 2006

I would be quite surprised if a manual detailed the removal/installation of a padded dash, but typically back then the padded dash was mounted using a thin metal plate around which the padding was clad. This plate had studs periodically that would penetrate the metal dash and there were small nuts holding them snug. I can tell you it is probably going to be a pain in the rear to access all of them unless you are prepared to really take things apart. Nowadays plastic clips that do not require rear access are more typically used, but I would not recommend prying too much until you verify which type was used in 1986.

As for the bulbs, they should be of the "twist and lock" variety, so pulling the cluster from the front to gain rear access should make the replacement process a breeze.

xwesx · November 2006

It sounds to me like the problem you are having is with the fuel burn, so I would check three things: First, spark. How do your plugs look... your wires? Verify that you are getting consistent and strong spark from your coil/distributor. Next, move to fuel supply. It is very possible that you have a carbeuration problem, but what IS the problem? Air or fuel? Rebuilding the carbeurator is, at most, a couple hour project, so if you think that may be some of the problem, then just do it as it is inexpensive both in dollars and in time. But, it could also be the air, so adjust it and see if you can smooth it out. Finally, how about your vacuum system? Are all your hoses connected and in good order? Something as simple as a cracked or disconnected hose can wreak havoc on the vehicle's performance.

Move from simple/cheap to complex/expensive here.... it has to be one of those three things!

I apologize that I could not be of more help. The amount of visitation to this topic (other than to ask questions) seems to be rather light.

dispencer1 · November 2006

I might just buy the replacement dash and get the dealer to install it and remove the old one.

tune · November 2006

thanks for your help

seewoody · November 2006

Some automatics may have a torque converter clutch that disengages at closed throttle and re-engages off idle(light throttle)and also disengages at hard throttle. It may feel like up&down shifting, or the computer is sensing closed throttle at high enough r.p.m. and shutting down fuel injection until vacuum/r.p.m. drops, or throttle is reapplied. I get that on my "96" 4X4 5spd manjuel, since changing the plug wires (hardly touch the gas now).I can live with it.

seewoody · November 2006

The distributor may have got bumped. Is "96" different?
If not then the crank sensor gives a pulse for each cyl. The dist. tells it when it is #1. First check the dist. position by sighting straight down the rotor "contact" to the dist. housing. Crankshaft must be at "Top Dead Center Compression" on #1 cyl! The rotor should point to a mark on the housing. This is the ballpark position. I had the code after this step. I had to try turning the dist. housing a degree at a time, clear the code, start the engine, and see if the code returned. It may take a few attempts. It took me three tries. I got lucky. Good Luck.

tune · November 2006

I need to get a new alternator but i don't know how many amps the alternator must have.....i have a 1986 chevrolet silverado w/ a 305.....a couple of alternators i saw had 80-120 amps and others were 63 amps........do i opt for the alternator with the most amps or what?

91chevyman · November 2006

anyone know a website or place i could a find a flush mount paintable tonneau cover?

dispencer1 · November 2006

I saved $174 (for a new headliner piece) for my '86 Silverado pickup by removing the trim pieces holding the headliner, removing the whole headliner unit and regluing the fabric onto the molded fibre piece it was originally attached to. There is spray glue available for that purpose at an auto supply store. Let the glue dry for a couple of minutes before you lay the fabric back in place. When you re-attach the trim pieces it is difficult to get the holes lined up so it is a lot easier if you hold the piece in position and use a long thin nail to locate the hole in the truck itself and line the holes up before you insert the screw. If the fibreboard is coming apart after you take it down you will need to just order a new headliner unit from a parts supplier. The new ones come on an ABS plastic panel covered with the fabric or vinyl headliner.

dispencer1 · December 2006

A few days after I put the headliner back in it started sagging again. I bought some new and different headliner spray glue and tried again. I left the unit in a bedroom fabric down and will see if it starts to sag again. So far so good but I'll leave it for a week or so. If it sags this time, I'll seal the fibreboard with lacquer and try again. If it doesn't work I'll scrub the whole project and buy a new unit. It is a pain to put it in and out of the truck so I'll let it sag elsewhere for awhile if it is going to. Any good ideas out there?

tneenan · December 2006

I have replaced the electric fuel pump(in tank) and now have no electrical power to pump. Both the old and new pump seem fine,(hooked up to different source) The 20 amp fuse on firewall is good. Where do I look next?
Thamks
Tneenan

xwesx · December 2006

Check the wiring with a multimeter down the length of the circuit, as it looks like you have a broken loop. If you have power at the fuse, then it has to be somewhere between there and the pump. Also check the ground wire from the pump to make sure it did not come loose or break (I am not sure where the in-tank pumps are grounded, but my guess would be on the frame and near the tank).

tneenan · December 2006

Thanks for your advice. Turns out the problem was an electrical "short" between the inside and outside of the tank connectors..... the inside connector was charred and not allowing the 12 volts through to the pump. The old pump is probably still good. I am so please to be writing this reply from my computer and not from the morgue......

xwesx · December 2006

I am so please to be writing this reply from my computer and not from the morgue......

Hahha! No kidding! Perhaps somewhat unrelated, but a couple years back a coworker's 1999 Silverado burned to a crisp when its fuel tank caught fire due to an electrical short in the fuel pump. She had started it with an autostart, so there were no occupants when it ignited, but the back seat area where her daughter always sat was naught but char. :surprise: She replaced it with a 2002 GMC Sierra, so I hope that is not a common problem!

fbksroofer · December 2006

i have a 95 c1500 with 4 head lights.an found a 97 with two head lights need to know if it will work.and need to know where to go to find out how to hook up the wiring harness because there different thanks

dispencer1 · December 2006

Taking the padded dash off is a snap on my '86 Silverado. You have screws at the bottom of the dash and the screws for the silver plate over the instrument cluster also screw into the padded dash. Anyway it comes off easily. What I've done is filled the cracks with vinyl spackle and sprayed the dash with the proper color vinyl dye (obtained from Classic Parts -formerly Chevy Duty). Isn't perfect but it looks a lot better and saves $300 over buying a new dash.

dchase1 · December 2006

thanks for the advice.the problem was i had installed boshch spark plugs.thought they would be better plugs.but i guess they dont work in chevys.in the process of figuring out this nightmare,I cracked the distributor because of those easy to reach well designed distibutor cap mounting screws.so now instead of just replacing the spark plugs i need a distributor after removing the cap about 50 times to figure out what was going on.also have a broken door buzzer circut,because of those heavy duty switches chevy put where the door closes.so u r right it is the distributor but the first problem was as simple as the wrong plug.bosch just screws up the whole vehicle.never guessed it cause they were new.runs good now.light goes out if the cap doesnt move.living with it for now,till i have an extra 500 for the distributor.exspensive plastic.I love vehicles.

redcurlz · December 2006

I have a 89' Chevy c/1500, with a 4brl. carbed V8. Someone all the springs off! Where can I find a good diagram of the carborator to put new ones on? Thanks.

iplaybass · December 2006

yes this is the limp home mode. the 2 trucks I've had do this needed fuel pumps.....

one needed a pressure reg. as well

iplaybass · December 2006

most auto parts stores around here you can get a pressure tester to see if your fuel pump is putting out the right amount of fuel. before you take everything apart.

iplaybass · December 2006

had this problem a few years back on a 92. it was the brake line.. the brake line has an inner and outer wall if the inner wall is broke you cant see it but when you hit the brake it keeps the line closed 'so it lockes it up'

iplaybass · December 2006

pull the brake light switch off of the mount that its on get some one to look at your lights as you slide the switch from on side to the other. if the lights go off then you need to remount the switch and ajust it to work with the brake peddel.. if it doesnt work then replace the switch and try again..

Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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