Tim - Got room for one more? I remember you guys mentioned a bunch of places, and none of them seemed near me. Geography is not my bag man. You need to say what state you're talking about. And a time-zone wouldn't hurt. I'm in Jersey, and the chances of me going increases inversly proportional to distance.
The misses wanted to try camping with the kids and dogs. This might be a good excuse.
No conspiracy here, I found out what a reload will do after you have already posted a message. So I deleted the 'extra' posting so you and everyone would be free to read without interruption.
BTW, isn't about this time that the moderators kick it up to Continued IX? Gee, don't we have lives outside of here and our trucks?
Husky liners mudguards they attach with fasteners to the fender flare then you drill a 1/8" hole into the flare to hold it on looks real nice. Parts # Front: 56211 Rear: 57211 This is for the mud flaps that go with the factory flares.
<<although around a campfire in person>> ----------------------------- Hey, we're in NY, camping with all our trucks sounds cool (nice campground up on Scroon River)...but, uh..I suppose brownies and coffee won't do? LOL! Doris
Hey, how did you end up with the Chevy wheels on your GMC? By the way, I like the tu-tone paint job on the rear tailgate, same way I did it. It sure looks a lot more finished that way. Did you get them to paint the face of the box floor as well?
My truck is black and you can see the rear edge of the floor even with the tailgate closed and in my case, the original black stood out like a sore thumb so I had them paint it pewter as well.
Anyone have the gm bug deflector? How do you like it and how much are they? My salesman told me tonight they are 70-$80 hes gonna find out for me tomorrow for sure. Just wondering if anyone has one and if they like it. Thanks
My truck has the GM bug deflector on it. Part number #12495773. If I remember, it was about $55 bucks or so. It works great, I also have the bed/tailgate line, front door vent visor, front & rear moulded splash guards & the soft tonneau cover. I really like the GM soft tonneau cover. It's easy to fold up & put back. I gald I got it!
Part of my deal was that I would be able to get any GM accessories at their cost. I'm not telling you what to do but push your dealer to get any GM accessories at their cost. rcoos
p.s. The truck bash, I have the perfect site--- Las Vegas, Nevada!!! A no brainer!
I've seen a couple of posts on the C R Laurence power sliding windows. Has anyone actually had one installed or installed one themselves? How about other brands or manual sliders? The accessories salesperson at my dealer says they won't install a slider because there have been too many problems with them cracking. She suggested waiting about 6 months to get one installed, figuring by then the problem would be solved.
If I can't get a satisfactory slider for the cab I'll probably order my cap without the front slider.
I love my PowerSlider. I recommend them without reservation. Well worth the price, especially if you buy with the cap and get a steeper discount.
Perhaps it's the So. Cal. weather, but my 5.3 idles smoother than anything else I have ever seen. You cannot feel it at all, stays perfectly at one RPM by sound and by tach. Not all Silverados have rough idle.
Mike...I have a set of the Putco Flaps still to be determined if I want to put them on or not?? They came with the Pipeline Running boards I have. Never put them on yet and winter time it seemed I should have? Not that's past us...and i don't know if I want them or Not?...They would look good though...although open looks good also? http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Pipelinenew.jpg I don't have the rears...just the fronts. we will see. $90 is stiff...but like all Putco's stuff...it's not junk. These babys are thick and sturdy. Plus SS costs money man.
Sure we have room for one more....we have tons of room! I'm in Michigan and was to be the President (according to Ryan) and I'd like to try this ideas one more time.....although I feel it won't go no place.
M1685, Funny how we don't even mention Dodge!....bashing is not what I have in mind...more of a pool of all owners that "Can get along" for a short time.....(and as the beer flows...then some bashing)
Doris, Brownies may work for day time....but night time is when the EBB begins...(EDmunds Beer Bash)
Ryan, why a GM guard??....gonna have them install that too??
I've got the C.R.Lawrence Power Slider. Was an extra $450 installed, when I added my cap. This should be a factory option on the extended-cabs. No leaks, No cracks, No noise, No problems. I've heard nothing but excellent reviews from others who bought one as well. Even the installer said it's the best one out there. Probably most expensive as well.
Tim- Sounds like you were a little Drunkel on Dunkel when you made that last post!
I dont think im gonna get the gm bug defelctor kinda high priced but ill find out the price today for sure. If i do ill have them throw it in the ext cab and ILL PUT IT ON.
Mike, I think I'm confused from some of your posts. I thought that you got your Y2K Silverado some time ago and then took a long trip to Arkansas. But when you started having shifting problems, you only had a few miles on the truck. Did you swap Y2K trucks? If so, what were the issues with the 1st one? Just curious, or maybe my brain is what is on malfunction.
I was wondering when someone would notice my wheels. I prefer the look of the GMC front, so that's what I bought. Unfortunately, the GMC aluminum wheels are REALLY UGLY. After paying for the truck ($21,000) I didn't have a whole lot of money left over and had to rid my beautiful truck of these terrible wheels. The most economical way to go was to buy a set of Chevy take-offs ($62.50 each). I didn't paint the inside of the bed since with white it really doesn't show. However, I did have to paint the rear wheel wells (black undercoat) since the white paint REALLY showed there. My next planned purchase will probably be a factory power leather seat, if I can find one (you can't get this option on a reg cab), and possibly a HypertechIII.
I maybe completely wrong here, but I don't think that the tire pressure will increase much, if at all when you put a bigger load in the bed. The only thing that can cause a pressure rise is an increase in temperature or a decrease in volume. The tire patch will increase to support the larger load, but I don't think that the volume inside the tire would change enough to make much of a difference. But, if you carry a big load again, I would be interested in hearing about the results.
Kevin
(Another way to think about it is consider a tire that is off of the car. You can inflate it (with no load on the tire) and when you put it on the vehicle, the pressure will still be the same in the tire.)
on the road. Up to now have seen very few and, interesting thing, it's been about 50/50 between 2500s and 1500s. Saw 2 nice ones on the way to work this morning - a carmine red 4 dr LB with chrome nerf bars and a pewter 2dr LB. Both still had temp plates.
Mike & Richard Thanks for the input on sliders.
Anyone out there have an ARE or Century cap? How about a Jeraco? I'm leaning toward the Century.
Has anyone used the Pendaliner. Right now I'm thinking Duraliner.
The Interceptor bug shield seems to be the way to go by popular acclaim.
Also, does anyone know of a manufacturer of black anodized (not powder coat)running boards? Seems to me the chemical conversion process of anodizing would give a more durable finish.
Sorry for the length of post but my Silverado is being built next week and I need to get moving on accessories. I better watch or you all my start calling me Babbler II.
Im gonna stick it on my (sorry gotta edit this) butt ( you all should know what i want to say)
Yea blue your right im not getting a truck who am i kidding i didnt order one i dont have an order number and i dont have a TPW this all must be a dream
be, it's not worth the keystrokes & we won't invite him to the Beer Bash either!
Beer Bash in NY at Lake Sacandaga August 10, 11 & 12, my campsite! If your not there I'll drink your share, LOL.
Tundra's ? yea seen one so far, not impressed, didn't give it a second look but he was watching my taillights all the way....& wishing he hadn't bought it.LOL
i disagree with your analogy. think about your tire being a balloon. the harder you squeeze (i.e. greater load) the greater the pressure inside the balloon (tire). eventually that balloon will pop - why? because the pressure inside has become too great for the "thin-walled-pressure-vessel" to contain. i'm really reaching back to the engineering classes now. all i remember about TWPV's is that hot-dogs and beer cans are good examples of TWPV's. wonder why that's all i remember? anyways, effectively what you're doing by adding weight is decreasing the *volume* (square inches) the air has to occupy, while not decreasing the amount of air (pounds) in the tire - hence greater pressure:
pounds - stays the same \ ------ - -------------- | -> greater pressure sq. in. - decreases /
no, you're not going to distort them a whole lot (depending on how much weight you put in) but the pressure will still increase. which can cause a bumpier ride or, worse yet, improper wear.
I've also heard good things about CR Laurence. I've seen the electric slider. Very cool. Are you putting the slider in the cap or back window of the truck? A.R.E makes excellent caps. On the west coast, Snug Fit is considered to be one of the best companies. They will even take your gas cap cover and use it to match the paint for a custom shell.
Does anybody know whether the Chevy rear slider is worth putting in or are the after market brands (CR Laurence) better? I ordered my truck with the slider, but Chevy delivered it without. Supposedly a supplier problem with the dark tinted slider. It's gonna cost me 3 to 4 hundred to put a Chevy slider in when and if they become available.
The Suburban lighted sunvisors I received were Canadian and the screw holes and visor was not going to fit. So heres some of the information gathered. If you have a Graphite or Tan interior you can get lighted or non-lighted visors, but if you have med gray (interior code 92I) you HAVE to get the lighted visors. So I have on order the U.S. version of the lighted mirrors. Also, the plug you need to fill the hole where your old visor clip was has to be ordered separtely, it does not come with the visors ($8.00 each !!!!!). I just won't have lights that work cause I do not want to try to pull the headliner and run a wire to either the overhead console or ?? Once this is done I'll have pictures, prices, part #'s, etc.
BABBLER, can't lose any sleep tonight knowing a young innocent boy may be fretting over whether or not the bluebeast believes you have made your purchase. Rest easy my boy, I BELIEVE YOU.
I think the pressure will remain the same unless heated, then the air expands, creating more pressure. The reason a baloon appears to have more pressure, is that you are decreasing the volume area, not actually increasing the pressure.
Why do you say that??....It was 5:39 in the morning and I was sober as can be....a little tired though. I don't have to be juiced to dog people and joke around.....I'm that wall all day long!!
LOL
Power Sliders are supposed to be a future option for GM soon....and I may be able to get my hands on one before??...we will see..
Kevin/Kyle
Both theories seem correct...and I have been thinking about both for days now. We know that cold and hot effects pressure. That's why you fill cold...and check cold.
The squish a balloon theory and pressure going up is correct...but when it gets squished....it's capacity is also getting smaller in volume so to speak...when a tire squats....does the space inside become smaller and pressure go up??...or does it just get a wider footprint? I've also thought that there is X amount of space and no matter how the tire is shaped....it will be the same all around.
The load of drywall was about 2120lbs. (I weighed a small piece of drywall and calculated what a sheet would weigh...and it came out to about 53 lbs.) Last spring I had 6 loads about 3400lbs each and would have liked to test this theory with that load. I will be getting 3 more loads of Drywall in a week or so and will test the pressure right before I put it in...and then when 40 sheets is in the bed.
The tire pressure goes up as you drive because the tire gets warm (hot air expands), thats why the tire says "cold tire pressure XXX psi max". that is also why tires have temperature ratings on them (a,b,c) that describes the tires abilty to dissapate(sp?) heat. Cheaper tires have less traction, heat dissapation, and tread life. If you want to try and stabilize your tire pressure, fill them with nitrogen, it's expansion rate due to heat is substantially less than that of normal air. I run nitrogen in all of my dragbike tires due to the need for consistent tire pressure from run to run. It is a must when you take a 70 deg tire and bump it up to 120 deg after a good burn-out. I usually run 6psi of nitrogen, If i use air my tire pressure jumps up to about 10 psi from 6psi after a burnout and run down the track. Obviously the more pressure you run (such as 80psi in my 3/4 ton tires) the more expansion you get because there is more air to expand, i am sure that these tires see 95psi on a hot day with a load on them.
The tire is being squished a little by the load. It gets flatter on the bottom. The pressure goes up because the volume is decreasing - a little.
My guess is it goes up 1 psi or less.
Measure on the shady side of the truck. Hopefully in the afternoon when the temp is stable, or the temp rise will affect tire pressure more than the load.
There is a lot of money riding on this, so please be accurate.
I had always heard that a properly inflated tire would go up about 3-6 psi from cold to hot. Less than 3 psi means overinflated, and more than 6 psi means under inflated.
Maybe just an old mechanic's tale, but I doubt an 80 psi tire gets to 95 on a hot day.
Next time I take my camper out I'll check the cold pressure and the hot pressure and post it back here.
87 lion wrote: ARE or Century cap? How about a Jeraco? I'm leaning toward the Century -------------------- We have looked at Leer and ARE...the new ARE that they only have so far for shortbeds. We thought it was really a lot nicer than the Leer..but pricier too. Are the Centuries nicer than ARE? How does it compare in $$$. We got the Duraliner put in today. It's really nice. Was suppose to get the running boards on, but the hardware didn't come with it, so back again on Monday. They did a nice paint job on them..next to the truck, the Carmine red really matched tight. Put off the bug deflector and over the window rain guards, until we could actually see the Lund one. The place where we go, really doesn't like the Lund for the Chevy..said not enough sponge room, so we want to see for ourselves.
Ray wrote: Beer Bash in NY at Lake Sacandaga August 10, 11 & 12, my campsite! --------------------------- Sounds a little wild for us, but if you end up having it, we may camp up there, and (let me know which campground), we'd like to stop in to see everyones trucks. Neither of us drink, but would love to see what everyone has done to their trucks. We could bring the laptop and let the west coast join us via modem. And of course I'd bring the brownies and coffee (LOL). And Ryan..I believe you! Doris
To quad for the HTML code.....although I didn't want it to be a link to the same picture....oh well.....I can design a website...but can't do HTML here!! GRRRRRR
I looked at both the ARE and Century on the same lot. In my opinion the Century and ARE are comparable in quality and features but the Centurys are a little cheaper. I also looked at the Leer but couldn't get the salesman to spend any time to answer my questions. They also were the most expensive. Didn't like the cable and latch lock system either.
Everyone is on the right track here. The pressure is a function of temperature and volume. Remember chemistry class? PV=nRT and all that ideal gas from the instructor?
Anyway theory aside, I have been curious about this myself. I frequently load/unload my 2300lb camper so last time I filled the tires to 80psi before loading. And after loading the camper it was.....(drum roll)...
LOWER! by a couple of psi. I don't believe the pressure actually went down, it must be the gauge or something. I'll be putting the camper back on soon and will repeat the test with my better gauge.
I think the answer is that the pressure basically stays the same because the tire doesn't deform much. The question is, if the tire does squash out, does the volume change?
Seems like if the pressure doesn't change then the volume would stay the same. The buldge in the sidewall is where the volume is diplaced. I don't remember that much about physics, been to long. I always like more air pressure when I have a load or tow, keeps the truck more stable,tires less squishy(hope that last part wasn't to technical)
I was trying to offer some more info on the subject, some people here are curious as to what causes the tire pressure to increase. The additional weight on the tire affects the PSI in a almost negligible amount, however the increase in friction between the tire and the road from the increased load on the tire(and the wider contact patch) increases the internal heat in the tire which raises the pressure. My point was that using nitrogen will cut down that amount of pressure increase substantially over regular air. I can also do with out your sarcasm, go have another beer, obviously it makes you smarter
The Leer were more expensive? We found the ARE was $300 more (we were looking at the new ARE). The new ARE's are only for short bed, so you wouldn't have looked at that one anyway. Thanks for the info..off to look at Century's.
I've been wanting to post Pics of the Putco SS Boards I put on before winter...but have not had a time when they were clean to take one. Every time I wash it...guess what came??....Well today they were semi clean....so I gave it a go...
As seen in a pic of the passengers side...the flaps would keep them cleaner....we will see?
skiddo1 - I may put a power slider in the pickup rear window. If I leave it solid I probably won't get a front slider in the cap. It would just open onto the solid rear window of the truck. I'm getting the sliding side windows on the cap so ventilation shouldn't be an issue.
dmr3 - The guy at Kap Mart didn't say I couldn't get the ARE for a long bed. The ARE website ( www.4are.com ) shows several models for the long bed extended cab, although it's listed under 1999-2000 C/K. Have fun shopping. {8^)
I have a cap on my truck (Jason), and GM deleted my sliding rear window also. I had the cap dealer swap out the front cap slider for a solid window. On other trucks I've had, I always had the dual slider set-up. But after having this all solid set-up, I like it better. It's nice looking back through all glass, with no obstructions. Plus, I never opened the sliders anyway. GM did me a favor!!
Tire pressure stays the same, loaded or unloaded. My 2 cents!!
I suspect the volume in the tires drops a very little bit when you load the truck.If you have high press approaching max allowable cold then the loss in volume is so small it probably doesn't change the pressure enough to measure. The main thing to remember is, putting max allow press prior to adding a large load keeps the side walls from flexing too much. That is where all of the heat comes from and it is possible if you are underinflated for the load you have that the sidewalls will not be able to dissipate the heat either internally or externally and they will overheat and fail. Like a blowout. The basis for these comments come from my Dad who worked for Firestone for 30 years.
Comments
Got room for one more? I remember you guys mentioned a bunch of places, and none of them seemed near me. Geography is not my bag man. You need to say what state you're talking about. And a time-zone wouldn't hurt. I'm in Jersey, and the chances of me going increases inversly proportional to distance.
The misses wanted to try camping with the kids and dogs. This might be a good excuse.
Mike
BTW, isn't about this time that the moderators kick it up to Continued IX? Gee, don't we have lives outside of here and our trucks?
Thanks ROB for the lund part #.
Ryan
-----------------------------
Hey, we're in NY, camping with all our trucks sounds cool (nice campground up on Scroon River)...but, uh..I suppose brownies and coffee won't do? LOL!
Doris
Ryan
My truck is black and you can see the rear edge of the floor even with the tailgate closed and in my case, the original black stood out like a sore thumb so I had them paint it pewter as well.
Bill........ Revitupfast
Notice the foreign-esq end line?
Notice that trucksrme was acutally RUBLETOO!
I know, I know, Meredith deleted one of my posts too (rubletoo), but changing your name is not the answer.
Ryan
My truck has the GM bug deflector on it. Part number #12495773. If I remember, it was about $55 bucks or so. It works great, I also have the bed/tailgate line, front door vent visor, front & rear moulded splash guards & the soft tonneau cover. I really like the GM soft tonneau cover. It's easy to fold up & put back. I gald I got it!
Part of my deal was that I would be able to get any GM accessories at their cost. I'm not telling you what to do but push your dealer to get any GM accessories at their cost.
rcoos
p.s. The truck bash, I have the perfect site--- Las Vegas, Nevada!!! A no brainer!
If I can't get a satisfactory slider for the cab I'll probably order my cap without the front slider.
Thanks.
Perhaps it's the So. Cal. weather, but my 5.3 idles smoother than anything else I have ever seen. You cannot feel it at all, stays perfectly at one RPM by sound and by tach. Not all Silverados have rough idle.
Richard
Mike...I have a set of the Putco Flaps still to be determined if I want to put them on or not?? They came with the Pipeline Running boards I have. Never put them on yet and winter time it seemed I should have? Not that's past us...and i don't know if I want them or Not?...They would look good though...although open looks good also?
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Pipelinenew.jpg
I don't have the rears...just the fronts.
we will see. $90 is stiff...but like all Putco's stuff...it's not junk. These babys are thick and sturdy. Plus SS costs money man.
Sure we have room for one more....we have tons of room! I'm in Michigan and was to be the President (according to Ryan) and I'd like to try this ideas one more time.....although I feel it won't go no place.
M1685,
Funny how we don't even mention Dodge!....bashing is not what I have in mind...more of a pool of all owners that "Can get along" for a short time.....(and as the beer flows...then some bashing)
Doris,
Brownies may work for day time....but night time is when the EBB begins...(EDmunds Beer Bash)
Ryan,
why a GM guard??....gonna have them install that too??
LOL
Rivitup,
Two tone tailgates....yeah i had them special paint mine too. Black on bottom and top. Looks good.
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/LT1.jpg
- Tim
Tim-
Sounds like you were a little Drunkel on Dunkel when you made that last post!
Mike
Ryan
I think I'm confused from some of your posts. I thought that you got your Y2K Silverado some time ago and then took a long trip to Arkansas. But when you started having shifting problems, you only had a few miles on the truck. Did you swap Y2K trucks? If so, what were the issues with the 1st one? Just curious, or maybe my brain is what is on malfunction.
Larry
Kevin
(Another way to think about it is consider a tire that is off of the car. You can inflate it (with no load on the tire) and when you put it on the vehicle, the pressure will still be the same in the tire.)
Mike & Richard Thanks for the input on sliders.
Anyone out there have an ARE or Century cap? How about a Jeraco? I'm leaning toward the Century.
Has anyone used the Pendaliner. Right now I'm thinking Duraliner.
The Interceptor bug shield seems to be the way to go by popular acclaim.
Also, does anyone know of a manufacturer of black anodized (not powder coat)running boards? Seems to me the chemical conversion process of anodizing would give a more durable finish.
Sorry for the length of post but my Silverado is being built next week and I need to get moving on accessories. I better watch or you all my start calling me Babbler II.
Yea blue your right im not getting a truck who am i kidding i didnt order one i dont have an order number and i dont have a TPW this all must be a dream
Ryan
Beer Bash in NY at Lake Sacandaga August 10, 11 & 12, my campsite! If your not there I'll drink your share, LOL.
Tundra's ? yea seen one so far, not impressed, didn't give it a second look but he was watching my taillights all the way....& wishing he hadn't bought it.LOL
Ray T.
pounds - stays the same \
------ - -------------- | -> greater pressure
sq. in. - decreases /
no, you're not going to distort them a whole lot (depending on how much weight you put in) but the pressure will still increase. which can cause a bumpier ride or, worse yet, improper wear.
kyle
Ryan
Oh wait i wont have a truck to get their so i wont be able to make it
Does anybody know whether the Chevy rear slider is worth putting in or are the after market brands (CR Laurence) better? I ordered my truck with the slider, but Chevy delivered it without. Supposedly a supplier problem with the dark tinted slider. It's gonna cost me 3 to 4 hundred to put a Chevy slider in when and if they become available.
Skiddo
BABBLER, can't lose any sleep tonight knowing a young innocent boy may be fretting over whether or not the bluebeast believes you have made your purchase. Rest easy my boy, I BELIEVE YOU.
Have a nice day...:)
Roger
Why do you say that??....It was 5:39 in the morning and I was sober as can be....a little tired though. I don't have to be juiced to dog people and joke around.....I'm that wall all day long!!
LOL
Power Sliders are supposed to be a future option for GM soon....and I may be able to get my hands on one before??...we will see..
Kevin/Kyle
Both theories seem correct...and I have been thinking about both for days now.
We know that cold and hot effects pressure. That's why you fill cold...and check cold.
The squish a balloon theory and pressure going up is correct...but when it gets squished....it's capacity is also getting smaller in volume so to speak...when a tire squats....does the space inside become smaller and pressure go up??...or does it just get a wider footprint? I've also thought that there is X amount of space and no matter how the tire is shaped....it will be the same all around.
The load of drywall was about 2120lbs. (I weighed a small piece of drywall and calculated what a sheet would weigh...and it came out to about 53 lbs.) Last spring I had 6 loads about 3400lbs each and would have liked to test this theory with that load.
I will be getting 3 more loads of Drywall in a week or so and will test the pressure right before I put it in...and then when 40 sheets is in the bed.
Any Brains out there who study physics??
Cam
My guess is it goes up 1 psi or less.
Measure on the shady side of the truck. Hopefully in the afternoon when the temp is stable, or the temp rise will affect tire pressure more than the load.
There is a lot of money riding on this, so please be accurate.
Mike L
I had always heard that a properly inflated tire would go up about 3-6 psi from cold to hot. Less than 3 psi means overinflated, and more than 6 psi means under inflated.
Maybe just an old mechanic's tale, but I doubt an 80 psi tire gets to 95 on a hot day.
Next time I take my camper out I'll check the cold pressure and the hot pressure and post it back here.
Mike L
about a Jeraco? I'm leaning toward the Century
--------------------
We have looked at Leer and ARE...the new ARE that they only have so far for shortbeds. We thought it was really a lot nicer than the Leer..but pricier too. Are the Centuries nicer than ARE? How does it compare in $$$.
We got the Duraliner put in today. It's really nice. Was suppose to get the running boards on, but the hardware didn't come with it, so back again on Monday. They did a nice paint job on them..next to the truck, the Carmine red really matched tight. Put off the bug deflector and over the window rain guards, until we could actually see the Lund one. The place where we go, really doesn't like the Lund for the Chevy..said not enough sponge room, so we want to see for ourselves.
---------------------------
Sounds a little wild for us, but if you end up having it, we may camp up there, and (let me know which campground), we'd like to stop in to see everyones trucks. Neither of us drink, but would love to see what everyone has done to their trucks. We could bring the laptop and let the west coast join us via modem. And of course I'd bring the brownies and coffee (LOL). And Ryan..I believe you!
Doris
GRRRRRR
- Tim
www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Tim_N_Ryan_Show.wav
sound good??
...(I'll leave you all now........My ride is here!!)
....You should never drink and drive...
- Tim
For more info on Century caps try www.centurycaps.com.
Anyway theory aside, I have been curious about this myself. I frequently load/unload my 2300lb camper so last time I filled the tires to 80psi before loading. And after loading the camper it was.....(drum roll)...
LOWER! by a couple of psi. I don't believe the pressure actually went down, it must be the gauge or something. I'll be putting the camper back on soon and will repeat the test with my better gauge.
I think the answer is that the pressure basically stays the same because the tire doesn't deform much. The question is, if the tire does squash out, does the volume change?
I always like more air pressure when I have a load or tow, keeps the truck more stable,tires less squishy(hope that last part wasn't to technical)
I can also do with out your sarcasm, go have another beer, obviously it makes you smarter
When I posted all that I had not a drop of beer.
You guys are too easy.
- Tim
As seen in a pic of the passengers side...the flaps would keep them cleaner....we will see?
Click for bigger pics
dmr3 - The guy at Kap Mart didn't say I couldn't get the ARE for a long bed. The ARE website ( www.4are.com ) shows several models for the long bed extended cab, although it's listed under 1999-2000 C/K. Have fun shopping. {8^)
Tire pressure stays the same, loaded or unloaded.
My 2 cents!!
-Todd