I've followed the owner's manual exactly. In fact, I had a 1999 Silverado as well and I was able to reset the oil check light on that one no problem. I've gone to the dealer and had the service manager look at it and he wasn't able to reset the light following the directions in the manual. His only suggestion was to ignore it and should the light ever come on, then try to reset it. If that's the case, why bother having the feature at all?
I tried to reset first time...no luck...but it had not come on either for first two changes at 1000,3000 yet....I found that Once it has been set off.(came on)...then it worked like a charm..
As far as oil capacity. My 99 Silverado with 5.3l takes exactly 6 qts. 6 qts puts it right at the full mark.
If I start the truck, run a minute, then shut it off, it takes a good 15-20 minutes for all the oil to drain back down into the oil pan. Are you all sure you are checking the oil with ALL the oil fully settled into the oil pan? Over filling can be more harmful than being slightly under normal capacity. Overfilling can cause the oil to foam and have less protective capacity than if you were just low on oil. Also, if it is extremely overfilled, you can blow gaskets, etc.
I put exactly 6 qts in at change. I usually check it a couple times per week. I am never low between changes. I use a synthetic oil that is not found but through a dealer or direct from the manuf. and a very high quality oil filter. I change the oil and filter at 6k miles with a filter only change at 3k miles.
Anybody have any good ideas on what to do/ how to use the "blank" area in the over head console? Wish the LT had come with the same console as the bench seat models.
Another possibility for the different oil level readings is that some may be adding oil to the filter before installing it and others may be screwing on an empty filter. Bob
got a Y2K 4x2 5.3L and I'd like to raise the front level up some also. My dealer says that's just the way it is, because of the front coil springs. Anybody know of a way to lift it some and not VOID the warranty?? I'm starting to get a complex with all these jacked-up 4x4 coming by and I'm sliding down the road a few feet below them .
Well, I finally took delivery on Wednesday evening of my 2000 Silverado LS1500, everything except leather, Indigo Blue metallic. IT IS AWESOME!! Already has 250 miles on it!!
Had a little problem the day after delivery. Started taking it to work and the check engine soon light started flashing which signals a misfire condition. It was also idling rough. Took it in and they replaced a faulty injector. Other than that I have no complaints!!
On a side note, I know that it was NOT shipped from the factory with this problem because I looked it up in the computer and it passed all the assembly line tests. Just one of those things that happens I guess. Hopefully that will be my only problem!!
It's not Babble's!! Only had 7 when I picked it up!! The dealer had it parked in their "show" spot when I picked it up. IT LOOKED GOOD!! The sun was shining brightly and the Indigo Blue was AWESOME!!
yeah, but who ran the h_ll out of it for thoses 7 miles? mine only had 1 mile and 1.1 hrs. on it. someone could have overevved it and floated a valve or two causing a burp that can also knock out a fuel injector or more. just something to think about.
Ryan, you've had a long wait and after all of your involvement in this site, I can only imagine just how anxious you are to get into that new Silverado on Saturday. I am really enjoying mine. Everything appears to still be okay at this young age in its life. (hope it does not fall apart after all this) I still plan to hold mine to 50 mph (I have to set the cruise on the open highway--it takes a lot of self discipline/control) until I get 500 miles on it. I will then up my self imposed speed limit and rpm in steps (varying the speed) until I get 1000 miles on it. After that I feel comfortable and free to drive it in a normal manner. Maybe like a young baby/child (more protective at first). I know a lot of people, even salepeople, have different views on this, but I have had great success with longevity of vital parts in my cars and trucks by babying them the first few hundred miles. I still hold to the philosophy that they need a gentle break-in period. To each his own, and if you want to drive 70 or more the 200 miles from your dealer back to your home, then that is your choice. I am sticking to what has been successful for me as I keep mine for a lot of miles before selling them and it has paid off for me in fewer repairs and better resale. How many people do we know that run a marathon without first training and building up to it. I know a truck is not a mind or a body, but I still say that those main vital parts need to get "set in" and ready for the long endurance of miles and hours ahead in it's life. Just wanted to give you something more to think about, as if you do not already have enough. Know you will have a greaaaaaaaaaaaaaat weekend. Good Luck and Enjoy. (I apologize to all for such a long posting) Bob
Well it came off the truck with 7 miles. Could just be a difference in where they parked it in the lots at the plants and how far it was to load it on the truck. Had 1.7 hours on it. Not worried. Drove 175 miles myself before the problem appeared. How could they overrev it? Not possible anymore with all the computer controls. Can't even floor it in neutral on the new cars. (Haven't checked it on my truck yet) The rev limiter is set around 4000 in Park and Neutral on GM's 2000 cars (once again don't know about trucks).
Maybe you need to look into your 1 mile. DVT (dynamic vehicle testing) at the plant puts 0.6 miles on the vehicle, plus the wheels are rolling during toe-in setting and headlight alignment (~0.2 miles) plus traveling out the door and to the trucks or trains. Maybe your PCM was replaced after they took it up north for the weekend!! Who really knows!
Kevin, Congratulations on getting your truck and joining the 00 bunch. Got mine one week ago today and I am still waiting for some of those problems to crop up!!! I guess in reading this site about all the problems does make me a little concerned if I am also going to have to deal with the launch shutter, 255/16 general tires, etc, etc. that several owners have reported. Even though, as has been already been stated, a lot of owners apparently are having no problems. How long does it take gm anyway to get the bugs out of a new model, especially those problems that are coming up soon after it leaves the dealership. Almost two years now! Bob
If your new truck is pulling to the right, take it to the dealer and get it aligned. I did (and I know others have) and it drives true as an arrow. I think it also rides a little better and puts less wear on the tires.
I am in total agreement with you on taking it easy on a car/truck during break-in. One thing you wrote did catch my eye- the use of the cruise control. When I bought my 91 Acura Integra (new) I was told not to use the C.C. until after 750 miles. The reasoning is supposedly the engine should experience varying rpm's, mph's, etc lest it may 'wear' to the specific setting. Urban legend? Old Wives' tale? You decide...
I'm in agreement with smikes on the use of Cruise Control during initial run-in.
I'll keep it under 55 but go to a country area where I can drive slowly, slow down for curves, go uphill/downhill, accelerate, brake, upshift, downshift and all that stuff for the first 500 miles.
Then go home and change oil/filter and baby the truck for the next 1-2000 miles before I give hard use.
Then all bets are off, it is a truck and meant to be used.
.....10 miles each way to work city...14 miles each way highway...
I tried the highway at 55MPH.....good way to get killed in a road rage here man....it don't fly...I even tried the CC...and I just couldn't take being that A-Hole that everyone wishes was not on the road..
So I took the back roads for 500 miles....then gave her hell....full hell was about at 1000 miles..
Now it's 50-55 City and 75-80 Highway all day every day..
Shouldn't you be paying more attention to the Tach, instead of the Speedo?
I think you would do a hell of a lot more damage if you ran the rpm's up over 4k in 1st and 2nd gear, just getting to 55 mph, than you would if you casually approached say 70mph in overdrive on the freeway. The Tach would still be below 2k at 70. What is the big deal?
Because that's what is reccomended in the owner's manual.
I know it is difficult to do, but it is only once in the truck's life, so I do it.
GM has a big investment in these trucks. They have put many lifetimes into designing and testing. Until somebody puts in more time and money to prove them wrong, I will follow that reccomendation as much as possible.
I do agree with you on revs, to a point. I didn't go over 2000 rpm during the first 1000 miles. But more importantly, I didn't use a lot of throttle, I didn't lug the engine and I didn't maintain a constant speed.
At the time they were impossible to get here...and still are tough. He never once said anything about this truck being excluded...or any HD's for that matter. We had even talked about a Cube Van for my business....and that was over 10K GVW.
Unless something has changed...which I don't think it has...someone is pulling your leg. Someone doesn't want to wait for a 2500 HD deal to go thru...or just doesn't want to deal with that truck on GMO...or a GMO at all?
Salesman will make up all kinds of crap to sell off the lot....rather than order a vehicle.
So the people with 4.11 gears should only go 50 mph.
Yes I kbnow the manual says try to keep it under 55 for break in, but it also says it doesn't need a formal break-in. Driving 55 in my opinion is a formal break-in, and every engineer that I know (from Ford, Chevy, Mazda and Nissan) says that the 55 rule was put in back when the Feds wanted to lower the speed limit and doesn't apply to engines at all. It is the tach you have to worry about, not the speed.
Personal experience says that driving any speed as long as you don't have fast starts and fast stops is ok. That includes hundreds (thousands) of thousands of miles on many different Chevys throughout the years.
I guess we are mostly in agreement except for the 55mph part.
You and I both treat the new truck gentler than we would a couple of thousand miles down the road. And some others feel it is OK to put the pedal to the metal at mile 0.
And you just mentioned something that we really hadn't said earlier: It is just as important (maybe more) to break-in the brakes as it is the drive train.
Thanks for the help about the GMO guys. I was talking to the GMO/GMS people up in Detroit, so it wasn't some salesman trying to screw me, yet. The guy just mentioned it when he I told him I wanted to order one of the 2001 2500HD. He sounded new though, so he may just have things mixed up anyway. But, I have had a lot of trouble finding anyone willing to do the GMO deal on such a popular truck. At least I know it has been done on the 2500's before. I can rest a little easier, and maybe I can still even get the new diesel HD? But at least I know I can get the regular 2500 and 6.0! That truck probably suits me better anyway, but the crew cab would be nice. Have a great weekend. Oh yeah, now that Ryan is getting his truck tomorrow, you can start picking on me, since I have been procrastinating/salivating about getting this truck since '97 when the concept came out. Keep forcing myself to wait longer...But I am going to order soon! Thanks again.
Just got off the phone with Chevrolet customer service. The current 3500 C/K is classified as Light Duty, so I'm sure there is no reason to believe that the new 2500HD will be anything other than Light Duty also, regardless of the HD in the name. That is a big relief. Now if those GMO papers will just get here! Later.
Some won't mess with them and some will. For the new diesel's probably only some will and then eventually they all will. Just try ordering a Vette on GMO - I've never heard of it happening. It's up to the dealer.
Break in period I agree that it's the tach. that you should watch. I drove mine 75 during break in and have never had any trouble with any new vehicle I've done this with. I don't gun it or hold it at WOT though. Someone earlier said the engine needs to be broke in at all RPM ranges and I would agree with this. My 2 cents...
A new model like the 2001 HD Duramax....yes...some dealers won't mess with GMO as they want to use all their allocations to sell them at MSRP at first....not at GMO and get their money later from GM.
My dealer is a 90% truck store....and when they get a Corvette..(about 2-3 year)..it goes for MSRP. They told me they have never done a GMO Corvette...
If you keep looking....some dealer somewhere will do the deal you want..
I ordered mine with the supplier deal. No problems at all. Oh yea did i forget to tell you all that i am picking my truck up tomorrow? Its all washed and ready to go. The salesman even put a cover over the truck so it doesnt get dusty in the building. Ill fill you all in how it is sunday night or monday morning.
Have a great weekend everyone. Oh i will go 55-60mph the whole way home so if your in indiana and you see a big blue truck holding up traffic thats me. Please dont give me the finger of honk your horn. Thanks
Never meant to imply that I use the cruise all the time. I also believe in varying my speed during those first 500 and 1000 miles. I live in the metro east (Illinois) and believe me we have lots of traffic and plenty of miles and hours of driving, including stop and go and traffic tie ups, at less than 50 miles per hour. My truck will get a lot of that kind of driving at various speeds, but on the open highway it will time to use the cruise, at varying speeds, part of the time. (Hard to keep it under 70 otherwise). Works for me until I think it ready to be turned loose. Heading to Chicago in a few minutes, but we will be driving the car on this trip. The 1500 will make it there in another two weeks. Have a good weekend. Bob
Be careful chicago drivers are nutz. I wouldnt take a new truck there. What city are you from if you dont mind me asking. Im from hammond indiana very close to chicago.
I think the 55 MPH recomendation is just as much for the other components of your truck as the engine. Bearings, rear differential, transmission, etc. Thats all I can figure out since it's like was said, it's the RPMs that matter to the engine, not the speed. I'm getting pretty good at typing since I started responding to this town hall. I think I go for that secretary job in the paper. Anyone know how to use those fancy phones?
I have a 99 Z71, 5.3, LS without the above mirror. A friend of mine bought a new Toyo Tundra. It also did not have one of those mirrors. He called the dealer and they installed one for 190.00, it works and appears just like an OEM mirror. I called my Chevy dealer and they want 450.00 for a similar mirror. Other than buy a Toyota, has anyone had one of those mirrors installed and how much did you pay?
Only way to fly. I have done that on all of my new vehicles, trucks and cars alike. No problems with any of them. After all, 500 miles isn't too far anyway. Might seem like it is when every driver in the world is passing you. But really it isn't far. My '00 Silverado has 825 miles on it. I have hit 70 to 75 mph passing people, but I don't hold it there. Still goes like anything. Smooth idle, no problems of any kind. Except I find myself volunteering to go to the store for my wife, and that is BAD. At least I can get in the pickup and go without my wife looking at me with that "at it again, huh" look.
Have a nice week-end guys...Especially you Ryan... Go get it done.
My truck now has about 650 miles on it, got 1 week ago yesterday. I've been trying to keep it at 55mph or below, babying the engine and brakes.
I thought I heard a noise earlier this week and today I heard it for sure.. it's been getting louder. I hear it when I'm driving around 50 mph and I have my foot on the pedal enough just to keep a constant speed, not pass or starting out from a light. It's a rattle type sound that seems to be coming from the center of the engine compartment. It goes away when I press the gas pedal more or take my foot off the gas. I'm planning on heading to my dealership Sunday (they're closed Saturday).
2000 with CD player and cassette in console, tryed the cassette yesterday for the first time, it was DOA. Dealer checked it out today, said the wires were hooked up,but that I must have gotten a bad unit. He has a new cassette unit on order. Other than that,this premium radio really sounds gooooooooood!
I noticed the Silverado the other day I saw had the cassette in the console and the CD in the head unit....Mine is the opposite....LS is diff than LT?...(head unit looked the same?>???)...have never really payed that much attention...
I tell ya Ryan...getting cocky the day before ..ain't ya?....ever see Sonething about Mary?..
If so....."Step into my office Ryan....Cuz you're......"
A friend has been after me since Nov 99 to put dual exhaust on my 4.8. Believe have been some post on the subject. I think all would get out of the install would be noise. Friend claims a big increase in mileage. I don't drive the truck much (Avg -400 month so far). If I go ahead to quiet my friend what types have people installed.
2000 model yr they changed the cd/cassette combo. Kinda pissed me off i liked it in the center console they now have the cd in the radio unit and the tape deck in the console for both LT and LS models.
JCWHITNEY sells the auto dimming mirror with digital compass and digital thermometer and looks like the OEM part#81DX8437Y cost 248.95.It's on their new catalog or log-on to their website.Hope this will help.
I had ordered the Hypertech unit today along w/the 160 thermostat. Did you check with dealer on the thermostat and how it would affect the warranty. When test driving with tech, he advised me on a couple of things one of which was to return the settings to stock prior to sending truck to dealer for warranty work. If you return the settings back to stock, would you have to also change the thermostat back? I wasn't sure how the truck would run with 160 thermostat and stock programming. Wondering if you heard anything regarding this?
Note that on the Gentex site, they mention that the side mirors (as a set) also dim along with the inside mirror -- like Chevy said they would do in the 1999 catalog. Mine don't; now they say they never did, and that it was a misprint.
A Sierra owner (2000) told me his outside mirrors DO dim. Was he BSing me? Is there a wire I can connect to make them work as they were supposed to?
Comments
- Tim
Yes, about 6 5/8 to 6 3/4 quarts brings it to the full mark. (Top of the checkered pattern)
Someone mentioned putting in 6 quarts, and they may be right...but quad is a risk taker!
kyle
Ryan
If I start the truck, run a minute, then shut it off, it takes a good 15-20 minutes for all the oil to drain back down into the oil pan. Are you all sure you are checking the oil with ALL the oil fully settled into the oil pan? Over filling can be more harmful than being slightly under normal capacity. Overfilling can cause the oil to foam and have less protective capacity than if you were just low on oil. Also, if it is extremely overfilled, you can blow gaskets, etc.
I put exactly 6 qts in at change. I usually check it a couple times per week. I am never low between changes. I use a synthetic oil that is not found but through a dealer or direct from the manuf. and a very high quality oil filter. I change the oil and filter at 6k miles with a filter only change at 3k miles.
Just my input.
Had a little problem the day after delivery. Started taking it to work and the check engine soon light started flashing which signals a misfire condition. It was also idling rough. Took it in and they replaced a faulty injector. Other than that I have no complaints!!
Kevin
sounds like someone got your truck!!!
(settle)
- Tim
Kevin
Kevin
miles? mine only had 1 mile and 1.1 hrs. on it.
someone could have overevved it and floated a
valve or two causing a burp that can also knock
out a fuel injector or more. just something to
think about.
Maybe you need to look into your 1 mile. DVT (dynamic vehicle testing) at the plant puts 0.6 miles on the vehicle, plus the wheels are rolling during toe-in setting and headlight alignment (~0.2 miles) plus traveling out the door and to the trucks or trains. Maybe your PCM was replaced after they took it up north for the weekend!! Who really knows!
Kevin
??
- Tim
Keith
I'll keep it under 55 but go to a country area where I can drive slowly, slow down for curves, go uphill/downhill, accelerate, brake, upshift, downshift and all that stuff for the first 500 miles.
Then go home and change oil/filter and baby the truck for the next 1-2000 miles before I give hard use.
Then all bets are off, it is a truck and meant to be used.
Mike L
00 Silverado 2500 LS 4x4 6.0L 5spd.
I tried the highway at 55MPH.....good way to get killed in a road rage here man....it don't fly...I even tried the CC...and I just couldn't take being that A-Hole that everyone wishes was not on the road..
So I took the back roads for 500 miles....then gave her hell....full hell was about at 1000 miles..
Now it's 50-55 City and 75-80 Highway all day every day..
No problems
00 2500 LT
- Tim
Shouldn't you be paying more attention to the Tach, instead of the Speedo?
I think you would do a hell of a lot more damage if you ran the rpm's up over 4k in 1st and 2nd gear, just getting to 55 mph, than you would if you casually approached say 70mph in overdrive on the freeway. The Tach would still be below 2k at 70. What is the big deal?
I know it is difficult to do, but it is only once in the truck's life, so I do it.
GM has a big investment in these trucks. They have put many lifetimes into designing and testing. Until somebody puts in more time and money to prove them wrong, I will follow that reccomendation as much as possible.
I do agree with you on revs, to a point. I didn't go over 2000 rpm during the first 1000 miles. But more importantly, I didn't use a lot of throttle, I didn't lug the engine and I didn't maintain a constant speed.
Mike L
a little fun like everone else does here. meant
no harm. Golly Gee Whizzz
At the time they were impossible to get here...and still are tough. He never once said anything about this truck being excluded...or any HD's for that matter. We had even talked about a Cube Van for my business....and that was over 10K GVW.
Unless something has changed...which I don't think it has...someone is pulling your leg.
Someone doesn't want to wait for a 2500 HD deal to go thru...or just doesn't want to deal with that truck on GMO...or a GMO at all?
Salesman will make up all kinds of crap to sell off the lot....rather than order a vehicle.
Go see another dealer.
good luck
- Tim
Yes I kbnow the manual says try to keep it under 55 for break in, but it also says it doesn't need a formal break-in. Driving 55 in my opinion is a formal break-in, and every engineer that I know (from Ford, Chevy, Mazda and Nissan) says that the 55 rule was put in back when the Feds wanted to lower the speed limit and doesn't apply to engines at all. It is the tach you have to worry about, not the speed.
Personal experience says that driving any speed as long as you don't have fast starts and fast stops is ok. That includes hundreds (thousands) of thousands of miles on many different Chevys throughout the years.
Richard
You and I both treat the new truck gentler than we would a couple of thousand miles down the road. And some others feel it is OK to put the pedal to the metal at mile 0.
And you just mentioned something that we really hadn't said earlier: It is just as important (maybe more) to break-in the brakes as it is the drive train.
Mike L
Break in period I agree that it's the tach. that you should watch. I drove mine 75 during break in and have never had any trouble with any new vehicle I've done this with. I don't gun it or hold it at WOT though. Someone earlier said the engine needs to be broke in at all RPM ranges and I would agree with this. My 2 cents...
My dealer is a 90% truck store....and when they get a Corvette..(about 2-3 year)..it goes for MSRP. They told me they have never done a GMO Corvette...
If you keep looking....some dealer somewhere will do the deal you want..
Good Luck
- Tim
Have a great weekend everyone. Oh i will go 55-60mph the whole way home so if your in indiana and you see a big blue truck holding up traffic thats me. Please dont give me the finger of honk your horn. Thanks
Ryan
Ryan
Thats all I can figure out since it's like was said, it's the RPMs that matter to the engine, not the speed.
I'm getting pretty good at typing since I started responding to this town hall.
I think I go for that secretary job in the paper.
Anyone know how to use those fancy phones?
Good luck tomorrow.....I'll try not to flip ya off!
LOL
- Tim
Have a nice week-end guys...Especially you Ryan...
Go get it done.
Roger..
Ryan
I thought I heard a noise earlier this week and today I heard it for sure.. it's been getting louder. I hear it when I'm driving around 50 mph and I have my foot on the pedal enough just to keep a constant speed, not pass or starting out from a light. It's a rattle type sound that seems to be coming from the center of the engine compartment. It goes away when I press the gas pedal more or take my foot off the gas. I'm planning on heading to my dealership Sunday (they're closed Saturday).
Anyone have any idea what's happening here?
Meredith
(mcthomps@fnfi.com)
thanks guys
Meredith
Other than that,this premium radio really sounds gooooooooood!
Ryan
I tell ya Ryan...getting cocky the day before ..ain't ya?....ever see Sonething about Mary?..
If so....."Step into my office Ryan....Cuz you're......"
LOL
- Tim
put dual exhaust on my 4.8. Believe have
been some post on the subject. I think all
would get out of the install would be noise.
Friend claims a big increase in
mileage. I don't drive the truck much (Avg -400
month so far).
If I go ahead to quiet my friend what types have people installed.
Cocky how so???
Ryan
http://www.donnellye.com/products.htm
http://www.gentex.com/automotive_products2.html
Note that on the Gentex site, they mention that the side mirors (as a set) also dim along with the inside mirror -- like Chevy said they would do in the 1999 catalog. Mine don't; now they say they never did, and that it was a misprint.
A Sierra owner (2000) told me his outside mirrors DO dim. Was he BSing me? Is there a wire I can connect to make them work as they were supposed to?
Richard