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the dealers says it's the cold weather and break in period. I say that is crap!!!! I have been driving for 30 years and have had plenty of 4 cyl. Cars that don't crap out in the cold as car as MPG's.
I love everything about the car but this. The mileage is why I bought it in the first place. This is my first NEW CAR since 1988... I am highly disappointed.
No, the only feedback gauge I found was ugly looking, and would clutter up the dash. For now, I'll just live without it.
Warner
Average Mileage: 27-28 that's 100% city driving and usually hitting the redline.
What percent stop & go driving vs highway miles do you drive?
It really varies. My commute to and from work is roughly 2 miles at what would be considered "city" driving, then 15 miles of what would be considered "highway" driving (albeit it is in rush-hour every day, so often times it can be stop and go even though I'm on the tollway), followed by another 3 miles of what would be considered "city" driving. So that's the 20 miles each way to work and back. After work, I'd say most of the miles would be considered "city" - normal neighborhood stuff...anywhere from 30mph to 50mph speed limits.
Hope this helps,
Warner
Well, I sure hope you use the "severe" maintenence schedule, for your car's sake!
Can you tell me more about the Fujita intake? Did you install it yourself? Is it emissions legal? And you can really notice a difference in POWER (as opposed to just being louder)?
Let me know and thanks,
Warner
I just checked the dyno chart from the website that sells the intake. It looks to me like you make LESS power than the stock setup until almost 5500 rpm's. I don't do much driving at 5,500 rpm's and over so I think I'll be the stock intake, which makes more power across the board until the engine is nearing redline.
Warner
Sorry to tell you this, but you're reading the Dyno wrong(below is the link to it)
http://www.f5air.com/images/dyno/ca1920.gif
Ok, the two blue lines are stock. The blue one that starts lower is Horse Power, the blue one higher up is Torque. As you can see from the Orange lines(with the intake), the HP and torque are significantly improved even in the lower RPM's. You can definitely feel it driving, even when you're starting off. It feels like a new car now. It is only slightly louder...maybe just sounds a little different when idling and moving around 30 mph or so. The filter is way down in the lower left of the car so there's not as much noise. It's when you give it a good amount of gas is when you can really hear it. It definately is a lot peppier now all speed ranges, I installed it with my buddy in his garage last night. He races cars on weekends and knows what he's doing, there was no way I could've done it on my own in 2 hours like he did, was able to install it without taking off the bumper(went up underneath the wheel well) and took a bunch of plastic parts off of it. Only thing I'm worried about it hitting a huge puddle, might want to get a splash guard or some kind of cover for it, though it isn't down too low in the car. Any other questions just ask.
Sorry to tell you this, but you're reading the Dyno wrong(below is the link to it)
http://www.f5air.com/images/dyno/ca1920.gif
Ok, the two blue lines are stock. The blue one that starts lower is Horse Power, the blue one higher up is Torque. As you can see from the Orange lines(with the intake), the HP and torque are significantly improved even in the lower RPM's. You can definitely feel it driving, even when you're starting off. It feels like a new car now. It is only slightly louder...maybe just sounds a little different when idling and moving around 30 mph or so. The filter is way down in the lower left of the car so there's not as much noise. It's when you give it a good amount of gas is when you can really hear it. It definately is a lot peppier now all speed ranges, I installed it with my buddy in his garage last night. He races cars on weekends and knows what he's doing, there was no way I could've done it on my own in 2 hours like he did, was able to install it without taking off the bumper(went up underneath the wheel well) and took a bunch of plastic parts off of it. Only thing I'm worried about it hitting a huge puddle, might want to get a splash guard or some kind of cover for it, though it isn't down too low in the car. Any other questions just ask.
You're right man, I WAS reading the graph wrong! (you'd think I'd have it straight by now after helping my 12 year old with his math homework!). Interesting. Let me know how it works out longer term and especially if it helps with fuel economy. I would NOT want to hear a noticeable increase in cabin noise though....I really like how quiet the new Civic is compared to the 2004 that I traded in on it.
Warner
Sorry to tell you this, but you're reading the Dyno wrong(below is the link to it)
http://www.f5air.com/images/dyno/ca1920.gif
Ok, the two blue lines are stock. The blue one that starts lower is Horse Power, the blue one higher up is Torque. As you can see from the Orange lines(with the intake), the HP and torque are significantly improved even in the lower RPM's. You can definitely feel it driving, even when you're starting off. It feels like a new car now. It is only slightly louder...maybe just sounds a little different when idling and moving around 30 mph or so. The filter is way down in the lower left of the car so there's not as much noise. It's when you give it a good amount of gas is when you can really hear it. It definately is a lot peppier now all speed ranges, I installed it with my buddy in his garage last night. He races cars on weekends and knows what he's doing, there was no way I could've done it on my own in 2 hours like he did, was able to install it without taking off the bumper(went up underneath the wheel well) and took a bunch of plastic parts off of it. Only thing I'm worried about it hitting a huge puddle, might want to get a splash guard or some kind of cover for it, though it isn't down too low in the car. Any other questions just ask.
PS - I SHOULD have known as well because ALL torque and horsepower curves cross at 5250 rpm's and that's what I was seeing!
Let's see. After I filled up my gas tank. I got into my car, started it up, put the car in drive. Then I proceed to drive on a highway for 12 miles where the speed limit was 45 mph. Then I drove...
However, there is a drawback. You drive like a "grandma" (sorry if I offend anyone) at slow speeds.
To answer the questions, I try to keep the RPMs low and I don't floor it from a stop. However, driving in NYC is not like in other cities from what I have seen. They don't drive any faster but there is no shoulder on many of the highways and the lanes are curvy and small. You have to drive aggressively at times even if it isn't your preference. So there are plenty of times the RPMs hit 3K and above!! That probably accounts for my lesser mileage.
The car is generally great though and I am really enjoying it. Anyone who steps in comments on how cool it is.
I can give my personal experience on this one as well. I traded in my 2004 Civic 5-speed on a 2006 Civic auto. On the 2004 5-speed, I would average about 35 mpg fairly consistently with mixed driving - about 20 miles each way to work with 15 of them on the highway, but not always at highway speeds (rush-hour in the Chicago area). With my 2006 Civic auto, I'm getting about 30-31mpg. Let me state that I am a fairly aggressive driver and would certainly get better mileage if I drove in a way that stressed me out (granny style). I'd rather get 3 or 4 mpg less and drive the way that I want to, though. 30mpg is still nothing to sneeze at. And, I just realized yesterday how much more powerful the 2006 is than the 2004. If your mileage really sucks, CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURE. I increased mine to 41 pounds and it did go up 1 or 2 mpg with no noticeable difference in ride quality or traction.
Hope this helps,
Warner
http://www.greenhybrid.com/compare/mileage/car/1820.html
Agreed. The tire manufacturers know where their tires work safely and best. If you stick with what's on the tire itself, you'll be fine. 41 PSI is NOT over-inflated on the 2006 Civic. Wasn't the Ford Explorer the victim of Ford ignoring and going against the inflation recommendation of the tire manufacturer? Yeah...those ones that kept flipping over? Remember that?
Warner
for example
another example
Tire inflation pressure is the level of air in the tire that provides it with load-carrying capacity and affects the overall performance of the vehicle. The tire inflation pressure is a number that indicates the amount of air pressure– measured in pounds per square inch (psi)–a tire requires to be properly inflated. (You will also find this number on the vehicle information placard expressed in kilopascals (kPa), which is the metric measure used internationally.)
Manufacturers of passenger vehicles and light trucks determine this number based on the vehicle's design load limit, that is, the greatest amount of weight a vehicle can safely carry and the vehicle's tire size.The proper tire pressure for your vehicle is referred to as the "recommended cold inflation pressure." (As you will read below, it is difficult to obtain the recommended tire pressure if your tires are not cold.)
Because tires are designed to be used on more than one type of vehicle, tire manufacturers list the "maximum permissible inflation pressure" on the tire sidewall. This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.
image of tires
41 psi is no problem.
Please read this website. You will be informed correctly.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=1
Btw, if you want to read a cold tire pressue, you need a dial pressure gauge w/ air release button($8 at walmart 2yr back) and a small air compressor($10 at walmart).
P.S. If you read 26 psi at the gas station(probably), the cold tire pressure would be around 20~24; insanely low.
Use a dial pressure gauge for accuracy. The stick gauge is not enough.
Consumer Reports tested them a few years back.
You might want to read pages 3 through 6 in this forum for 2006 Civic owners' recorded mileage figures and plenty of information directly relating to your question.
You won't find too much variation in figures between southern and other owner's experiences. Clearly, warmer winter driving will yield a couple more mpg than driving in snow country.
I'm curious to know what the '06 Civics are getting after they have been "broken in".
David