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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    After the truck is warm. After the engine has been running for a minimum of 20-30 minutes and at idle not while driving.

  • pining clicking noise in my Silver ado is exhaust related and I've only come to this realization recently after thinking it was ping or detonation for months. Good luck. Roger
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    No mine isnt a ping or exhaust related

  • zrt7zrt7 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Sierra 1500 ext cab 4wd Z71 with now 9000mi with this problem. My buddy has the same truck that he bought a couple months before had the same problem. He brought it to the dealer, they realinged it and it still pulled to the right. The dealer had to set up the alignment so lopsided that now sometimes it pulls to the left. this problem seems to happen around 8000 miles. Has anybody else had this same problem.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    My mom had that problem on her 2000 blazer back last sept (99). Had it aligned 3 times. The second time it pulled both ways. they said it was due to road curvature (crown) and wind. BS

    Well after the third time about 500 miles later it didnt pull anymore. It has almost 11K on it and its fine.

    It would wear you out driving that blazer it wasnt fun on long trips

  • zrt7zrt7 Posts: 2
    That is what they told my buddy that it is the crown in the road.. It does get tiring after long trips, but right turns are a breeze.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    We took a long test drive with the service manager and he explained the crown in road theory and yes that plays a part in a pull. I dont disagree with that. He even said our pull wasnt normal. I think the last alignment was done slightly out of gm spec not sure though. Ill ask my dad when i get home tonight.

  • Up here in Canada, across the river from Detroit, MI, we are having some cold weather this winter. When the temperature is around freezing or below, the rear doors do not fully click shut. If either door if opened, they will not fully close until interior is heated up. Very friggin annoying, because if the rear door doesn't fully shut, I cannot fully shut the front door(s) either, being that they lock on the rear doors. Seems like it would be a safety concern if the doors aren't fully latched, plus the wind noise can drive you nuts because they are partially open. How is the dealer going to fix this kind of problem? My theory is that the cab/door metal contracts in the cold, and the cab/door latches do not line up. I can beat the hell out of the rear doors trying to shut them, but will not until the truck is warm, then they shut beautifully. Ok if I lived in California eh'
  • I am considering a 1998 K3500 Crew Cab with the Diesel engine. It's the same engine they put in the Hummer, or HMMWV. I have researched this power plant and have not found anybody ready to "sing its praises". Many say the 1998 K3500 is a fine truck, but nobody raves about this engine like they do about the new Duramax, or the Power Stroke or Cummins.

    Any kind words, or words of warning would be appreciated. I have read many references to the injector pumps failing, and some valve/compression issues. I understand that it has a lot of torque, but only 190 horsepower. I am concerned that while it may get up and pull my trailer (high torque) it may not get there very quickly (low horsepower).

    Thanks for any help you can provide,

    Eric B,
    Anchorage, Alaska
  • While you're waiting for a response here, you should also try asking (copy/paste) your question in this discussion: Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra (1988 - 1998). Good luck. ;-)

    Pickups Message Board
  • Several problems your service shop should be aware of:

    First is the front end alignment specs from the factory were in error. (New specs get both wheels going in the right direction).

    Second is a defective steering shaft. Original shaft causes a rattle after 9K miles or so. (Replacement shaft is a tighter fit).

    Third is probably your problem pulling to the right. A defective steering box. (The power assist valves are not balanced & cause a pulling usually to the right).

    Factory warranty should cover all costs to you.
  • PS: For the front end alignment error, they replaced both of my front tires with only 7000 miles with no sign of wear.
  • Several questions for Shiftless. Is this a problem on the 2WD or 4WD? Have these problems been corrected for 2001 models? Are you also Lazy?


  • Answer 1. If you read ZRT7 question #35 you would know my answer was directed to him for a 2K Sierra, 1500, 4W/D Z71.

    Answer 2. My experience is with a 2K Sierra not a 2001. The factory is aware of the problems I mentioned to a point of issuing a Tech. Bulletin on each of them. I don't know about the 2001.

    Answer 3. Yes I am lazy.

    For all of you regulars, I have been a steady reader of this forum since March 1999 and I appreciate all of the good information you have passed on to many of us who have stayed on the sidelines. For example, my first direction was to buy another 2 W/D to replace my 21 year old 1978 Sierra. I live in NH & driving in the snow for these 21 years was never a problem with 2 W/D. However, because of the drive line vibrations you covered primarily on 2 W/D, I decided to get a 4 W/D instead. You guys saved me a lot of heartache. Just for the record this is what I have:

    2K GMC Sierra, SLE, 4 W/D, 1500, Short Bed, Regular Cab
    5.3 V8
    3.73 Locking Differential
    Plow Prep Package
    Trailer Package
    Z71 Package
    Polished Aluminum Wheels (Good For Resisting Corrosion From Road Salt)
    Active Transfer Case
    Bucket Seats
    Sliding Rear Window (No Leaks)
    P265-75R-16 WOL
    Block Heater
    Color: Toreador Red W/Pewter (Sorry about that Ryan)
    ARE - Hard Tonneau Cover W/Nomadic "Glider" Roof Rack

    8000 Miles And Enjoying Every Trip (Smooth, Quiet & Strong)

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I know I read about this somewhere in the forums, but is there a TSB out for the 4door Ext cab rear window wind noise? I drive a 2k 2500 and at about 3000 miles the drivers side rear door window made a 'pop' and now it has wind noise like a hurricane. If I pull in on the latch firmly, I hear a pop inside the trim, but as soon as I get back up to highway speed, "pop" and the noise is back. The window stays latched, just not very tight. Before I take this in for warranty, I want to be armed with any data on a TSB.


  • Jim,
    On the first visit back to the dealer for wind noise, they replaced the rear window latches per the most recent TSB they had at the time. That did nothing to help the problem. Yesterday they replaced the entire window and frame on both sides as per a new TSB. That seems to have done as much as the latch replacement did ! Don't know what they will try next, but the local GM re is scheduled to drive my 2000 Sierra so he can feel the torgue converter lock up at 38 miles and hour. Perhaps he will notice the wind noise while he is downshifting my automatic transmission to get it to go to a lower gear !!
    I would have your dealer at least replace the latches, it might help your problem.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    take the truck up to 50-55 then back down to 38-40. That way you're insured that OD is engaged.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Seems GM has gone 50/50 on mine as my drivers side is fine but the passenger still leaks air.
  • Actually, that is when the converter is locked up. If I am cruising along around 50 mph or so, and I have to slow down into the 38-42 mph range, the transmission will not downshift itself. As I explained to the dealer, it's the same as having a manual transmission and driving it in 4th gear when you should be in 2nd or 3rd.
    The service techs at GM that the dealership contacted, told them that this is the way the truck is designed in order for them to meet EPA gas mileage requirements. They say that if I don't like what I am experiencing, that I should downshift it into third. I feel that they owe me the 800 dollars I paid for the automatic transmission if I indeed need to shift it. This is my third GMC in the past 12 years and with out a doubt the most troublesome. Makes me wonder if I will want another one in the future.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    engage and no driveline growl. The dealer is correct in that there is no fix for this. They reprogrammed mine twice as there was another calibration update. It shifts into third a little sooner when depressing the gas when in OD at 38 mph. It is an improvement but not as much as I had hoped for. You can find the calibration update listed here:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    on my truck it sounds like the drivers side is the bad one

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    99-08-48-001A. Seems like they may have done it already if one side doesn't leak.
  • brians5brians5 Posts: 23
    Hello there!

    I have just experience a rather unusual occurrence with my 1997 GMC K2500. When pulling about a 3200lbs trailer down hill at about 55mph in 3rd gear, the tranny (four speed auto, coupled to the 454cid gas) came out of gear on its own and the tranny emitted grinding-gear sound, like the sound heard when putting a vehicle in park whilst still underway.

    It did this three times. Each time I put it in neutral and the sound diminished immediately until going away. (Within seconds)

    Any ideas?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    How many miles? and when was the last time you serviced the trans? Checked the fluid if it looks burnt?
  • rrjungrrjung Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Ex Cab (4dr) 1500 Long Bed, 5.3 and towing package. On certain freeways, the truck bounces (not vibrates) between roughly 65-74 mph. When I put a bed cover on, it reduced the bounce by almost 50%. The dealer wants me to carry 200 pounds of stuff in the bed (maybe he can sit there all the time). I tried Edelbrock shocks, but they didn't improve anything. I'm going to return them today (30 day money back guarantee). Early ABS activation has improved in time (I have about 10k miles on it now). The rear window defogger takes 15 minutes to work (instead of 3-5 like regular cars). Otherwise, love my truck. ANY IDEAS ???
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    made of concrete?
  • I have a 01 x-cab and at higher speeds sometimes I hear a noise as thought the windshield is rubbing against metal. I notice it in passenger side dash area. It isn't constant nor does it do it all the time, yet it is annoying. My rear doors don't shut in cold weather eaither but I have already read there may be a GM fix for that.
  • mblrdsmblrds Posts: 41
    I had a creaking noise in the dash/windshield very much like you described. It first reared it's ugly head in a particular curve on my way to work. It got so it was happening more and more often. Took it to the dealer and they in turn had a auto-glass guy come out and recaulked/resealed the windshield. I haven't had a recurrence since.

    '00 GMC Sierra SLT Ext cab Z71 w/5.3
  • I have a 2000 Sierra ext cab sb 4x4 with the 4800. I've got the same problem with the rear doors not closing in the cold weather. Dealer is going to try to fix it for the third time now.
    Also, after two visits, the dealer finally admitted that the tapping in the column was the intermediate shaft. Part is now on order.
    I've noticed that the inside door seal on the drivers side is coming loose and sags quite a bit after opening and closing the door a few times. Dealer has, as usual, not heard of this problem yet.
    This is my first 4x4 and this may just be a dumb question, but when my truck is in 4 wheel drive, the front end groans quite a bit while turning. Is this normal, or should I bring this to the dealers attention as well?
    The Lund Interceptor DOES cause windshield noise. I've had one for about 12000 miles now, and around 60-65 I hear the flapping. I've kinda gotten used to it though, doesn't bother me as much anymore. Thanks for all the help, I hope this info helps someone else.
This discussion has been closed.