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Comments
I couldn't get them to drop any lower on price. I delt with Scott Johnson and Dan Dixon at Toyota of the Desert and they are going to drive it all the way to San Diego (100 miles) for free to deliver it to me tomorrow!
It is a white 6cyl AWD LTD
WHOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!!!
Full loaded was 32K - Includes floor matts, gold pkg side air bags and VSC + etc. Remember - the dealer still gets 2% back from Toyota. And as soon as they sell a HL - They get allocation for another one.
VSC is OK. I tested it 2 days ago in snow. It definitely kicks in. I wish there was a manual override.
diff,sunroof,side airbags,heated seats & skid control. There is nothing listed for mats or gold package?How much more were these? Did they say you had to pay for advertising like they're telling me? Thanks for any advise.
Any comments on how easy they are to keep clean?
Thanks
Thanks!
I am looking for a vehicle that handles well in emergeny situations- basically, icy roads. Am I better off buying a used RX300 or have people found that contrary to reports, the Highland can cope with wet, icy roads, or emergency manoeuvres.
I upgraded my RX to 17X8 wheels/tires with spacers all around to enhance stability. Track width is about 3" wider.
I upgraded my RX to 17X8 wheels/tires with spacers all around to enhance stability. Track width is about 3" wider.
I have the ivory leather seats in my HL. The light color would not have been my first choice either. However, I have not found them to get that dirty--at least so far. I do wipe them after I carry my dogs in the back. After almost a year and 17,000 miles they still look fine (but don't ask me about the tall grease monkey who backed my HL out of the garage and had grease in his hair he rubbed onto the headliner).
The floor mats are another story. Mine got dirty within a few weeks. I steam cleaned them, but they got dirty again soon. My solution was to buy the beige rubber mats for daily use. I only put the cloth mats in for special occasions. That helps a lot.
OTOH, I have the gray mats in my Sienna, and they also show the dirt pretty bad even though they are a darker color. The gray leather in the Sienna seems to show dirt about the same as the ivory.
My opinion is that light or dark leather really doesn't make all that much difference with normal use. If you have some special concern (my dad is a printer--printer's ink smudges definitely wouldn't look good on the ivory!) then it may be different. My son delivered papers when he was in Jr High. Of course, Mom and Dad ended up delivering them lots of times when the band or baseball team or whatever had an event. Ink rubbing off stacks of newspapers also probably wouldn't look good on the ivory (didn't look good on the beige Forester I had at the time).
This sounds like dry & wet pavement manuvers, where the tires may have something to do with how soon a car reaches those limits
Their test car was equipped with Goodyear Integrity tires. The test RX300 had the Bridgestone Duelers, which is what the newer Highlanders seem to be shipping with lately.
The Passat wagon that was also in the test is a benchmark of handling amongst these types of vehicles. It's also not an suv. The Highlander did no poorer than the MDX, or Rendezvous.
Everyday, low-speed, handling (steering) is great on the highlander. It tosses into curves and twisties to a point where it's actually fun to drive. But you have to remember that you are in an suv.
I like cars that handle. But I think in reality, if you want any serious lateral acceleration, or super crisp transient response, then you need somethig more car than suv.
The front seat legroom, at 40.7" seems to be about the smallest of any SUV and smaller than most cars.
Has anyone else got this problem?
I have the same concerns as jafo2001 concerning leg room. I am 6'2" and drive 25,000 to 35,000 miles per year. I'm afraid a test drive is not long enough to make me uncomfortable. Any comment from any 6' plus HL owners out there?
One of my local dealers just made me a great offer on a fresh import that is not even out of Jacksonville (the Southeast Import Center for Toyotas) yet. I almost can't refuse it. He said I could have it for Invoice. The dealership does have a $ 500.00 dealer paper work/administration fee (then taxes, battery/tire, & registration) which I thought was high.
Should I jump on this offer or am I missing something? The seats concern me also.
Please, please help.
Thanks Bunches, Dave ;^)
The Pilot pictures are supposedly of the full production version. The Highlander is much more attractive but I do like the rear A/C vents in the Pilot.
The Murano is more pre-production so I expect that the final version will change some.
It will be interesting to see how Honda and Nissan structures their prices vs. options. I expect the Honda to come in two or three levels with only dealer accessories as options. The Highlander is my first Toyota and I love it, but Toyota should really look at adding more items as standard, especially safety items such as side airbags.
Anyone know how?
Thanks.
TRAC only comes into play if one rear wheel begins to slip and then TRAC will instantly apply, release, apply, release, etc, the brake to that wheel, using the on/off cycling of the brake to modulate the frictional coefficient of that wheel such that it's rotational rate roughly equals that of the opposite wheel.
If this condition persists for more than a few hundred milliseconds and the operator does not react quickly and lift the throttle then the TRAC ecu will itself dethrottle the engine.
The Sequoia, ML, and I think the new LC, AWD systems work the same way except TRAC will use the brakes on any wheel or wheel to alleviate wheelspin.
Three open diff'ls with TRAC to insure true AWD operation on most surfaces, dry, slippery, snow, ice, etc.
The Sequoia only locks the center diff'l in L4 and with the transmission shifter in "low", otherwise it uses TRAC to apportion torque in AWD mode if slippery conditions are encountered.
Anyway...
I also ordered the fog lamps from my local dealer. Two fog lamp with four new clips and two plastic snap in "bearings" (as mentioned in an earlier post - for the adjusting screws) for $200. This did not include any wiring or bulbs. I installed the lamps but will not wire them up right away (I sealed the openings on the back of the lamps for now). In my opinion, for $200, the look of my HL has been greatly improved. I would recommend it to anyone.
Came equipped with
FE, SR, BE,TO, UQ,VD,LL,EJ,LA,HD,CF
Invoice price: 31,542+ Plus $600 over +tax+lic+doc+tire fee =$34,937
Got a great deal and love it already!
This is working with the toyota hood protector. I don't know how other protectors are installed but the toyota one makes this process very easy.
We've had our Highlander for about 10 months/10,000 miles. We live in the Panhandle of Florida where it is very flat. It looks like we're settling out about 20-21 MPG around town. Our highway MPG has been going up and was about 27 on our last trip. I'd estimate that we would get about 25-26 MPG for your scenario.
Sometimes I even lurch forward for a second before it catches gear, which is of course very disconcerting (punch the gas and deccelerate?). This is most noticeable when cruising near the shift points, i.e. around 30-40mph and 50-60mph and hammering the gas hard. It almost seems like the engine is over-revving or the transmission is slipping a bit before engaging. Is this just me or has anyone else noticed this? My wife's older Camry definitely doesn't shift like this. Thanks.
-art4242
With a car so tall, unless you are Michael Jordan you will be able to fit your knees under the steering wheel.
What I've been finding is that since there's less legroom that I'm used to (and at 40.7", the Highlander has less legroom than any other car I can find out of the 30 I've searched so far) I find there's not a lot of thigh support so my legs get really tired after 20 minutes.
Anyone else find this?
I saw some lightweight polyester bag that weighs only 5 lbs that holds 13 cubic feet. Any ideas or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
http://www.packasport.com/home.html
with this dealer:
http://www.rack-n-roll.com/index.html
we have a hl limited that has heated mirrors. How /when do they come on and how would one know they are working.
tried both fr and rear defrost and there was no sign of wrmth or evap of liquid. it was about 50f outside.
thanks for your feedback
ed
Has anyone sucessfully tried this?
It is identified by an odd pictogram of a mirror and lights up when switch is cycled on. They work rather well.
thanks much
ed
Does anyone know what the differences might be regarding factory installed leather vs. port installed leather?
Thanks, David ;^)
Port Leather: I have it and all I can say is ----Don't do it!!! It is the same style as the factory leather, but I don't think it fits as well or is the same quality. I have had three repairs related to the port leather. The latest involved the dealer trying to super glue the door handle back on - I caught it and the entire door panel had to be replaced.
Met a terrific salesman at Toyota of Irvine (junction of the 5 and the 405) today. Very knowledgeable. Haven't purchased yet but, might. His name was Brian Hansen or Hanson.
First, if you are not mechanically inclined and have not used drills and self-drilling screws on metal substrates and are not familiar with or inexperienced with mechanical hand tools, have the dealer install it. I've been a "clutchhead" for 35 years and it took about 2.25 hours lying on my back under it including prep and cleanup.
A couple observations:
The kit is very well made, color is an exact match, all hardware and one required drill bit was included. The self-drill screws are and some of the other fasteners are coated with corrosion-resistant coating, and some of the other hardware is bright zinc electroplated. Instructions are clear and easy to follow, with decent illustrations. It is an easy one-person job for the experienced. The existing front molded splash guards are replaced with new ones as part of the running board assembly.
The potentially difficult part is drilling the holes in the chassis for the front bracket. The instructions recommend a right-angle drill motor. I didn't have one, but I did use a very short-length older Black & Decker 3/8" drill motor that just barely physically fit in the space needed to get the holes drilled. The kit-supplied drill bit is fairly short in length and this helped. The instructions recommend drilling one hole and installing a self-drilling screw in that hole to hold the bracket while using the other three bracket holes as a template for drilling the remaining holes. This procedure works very well. The holes drilled with the bit are only pilot holes for the self-drill screws that attach the brackets. You must use a drill motor and hex drive socket to install the self-drill screws since trying to install them with a hand ratchet did not work; the self-drill screws just spun on their tips in the pre-drilled holes. With the hex drive socket in the drill motor the screws went in just fine, and I torqued them with the hand ratchet to finish. The middle and rear brackets are very accessible for drilling; it's only the front brackets that are kinda tough. The running boards themselves have lots of adjustability to aid in alignment which went quickly. All in all, a straightforward installation and a tremendous improvement in looks and protection for the lower body side finish.
Hope this helps.
As far as CR testing of the Highlander, well, I don't subscribe because I find their testing to be a bit more subjective than they would lead people to think. If I recall from reading the library copy of the test, the test Highlander had Goodyear Integrity tires, and tires and tire pressure play a large part in handling. CR also sometimes fails to get vehicles in a given test equipped similarly for apples-apples comparisons.
Now you got me started . . .