Dodge Dakota Suspension and Axles
Just the other day a was taking a right turn when i heard a snap come to find out the u bracket that holds the swaybar bushings fell off the bolts snapped,i have had the swaybar bushings replaced three times.Has anyone else have similar problems.
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Are you using stock bushings or after-market polyurethane or something of that sort?
Never have seen a bolt snap off on swar bar under normal use, sounds like either were over-tightened or someone didn't use the correct grade bolt.
When I checked in to it the other day, seems like there is simply no extra leaf or chage-out spring pack available for the Dakota post the '02 model. That's interesting!
A custom fabricated extra leaf seems my only choice. So that begs the question, is there even a lift kit available for post '02 Dakotas?
You should be able to get the components of the HD suspension from a dealer......
I am not sure why you are asking... but you can compare things like
*)number of leafsprings
*)How leaves are bolted on (over axle or under axle)
engine has lost power, my spare is on the p/f rim alloy rim gone,I can tell what fuses they replaced them upsidedown,the interior lamps, horn park lamps, trans pos ind, eng relay, power amp, htd mirror, cig lighter, radio 1, backup lamp, anti lk brakes, so i figure someone knew dakota probally owned one they got up in the dome light and disabled it probally aware that homing devices are put in some models,on top of that i swear that is not my rear end casing mine was black this one is grey and you can see lube on the seam one of my tranny case has a seriuos gap where it meets in the front, and I had to dealer replace the tranny 2xs about a year or so and they said they replaced it the first time but i wasnt better took it back a second time and then snuck into the shop while the tech was at lunch to make sure they replaced it and my new tranny casing was black, now the tranny i have is gray on top of that after i bought her i had her undercoated and there is over sprayon about every thing except the rear end and drive line dont have any i havent flipped it into 4x4 cause im scared what i will find. I bought the 04 quad sxt bright red and whoever had my truck last week took the sxt decal off Leads me to think for signifigance. so I tryed the self diagnosis and it reads chec then acts likeits checking and says nothing the it will display airbags, abs, security,service 4wd,cargo lamp,winsheild bottom filled in, door ajar and engine then it checks the six gages and thats it no p done. I looked at the leafs all 4 are bound and bolted above the axel. so im not sure weather i got the hd option or not I got the sxt 4x4 with tow the 3.7 magnum v6 with abs the six cluster console. NEways Im tore up about this I keept my baby dak clean mechanical wise It was perfect. I had my mas glock 9 in the truck 200 bucks 3 credit cards all the vehicle info and my eagle feathers and ceremonial beads in there.ouchhh! I just hope that whoever did this doesnt log on here too. so thanks for reading this I would love to hear anything yall have to say :sick:
You have a couple choices,
*) Replace the fluid in the diff and live with the sound.
*) Pay to have a qualified differential tech look at it.
NOISE
Drive the vehicle at least five (5) miles (more in colder weather) to warm the differential lubricant. On a smooth road accerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise becomes the greatest. Shift the transmission out-of-gear and coast through the peak noise range. If the noise stops or changes significantly, the following may be the cause:
*The differential lubricant level is low or the lubricant has expired.
*Incorrect ring gear backlash
*Moderate to heavy gear face scratches or galling, or other gear damage.
If the noise is heard when the rear axle is loaded, the problem is the rear pinion bearing.
If the noise is heared during a coast, the problem is the front pinion bearing.
If the noise is constant and the pitch varies with speed, the problem is the differential bearings.
If the noise level changes when the vehicle is turned sharply either left or right, the problem is the axle bearings. If the noise goes away with increased speed, the problem is light axle bearing wear or damage.
If the noise is a low speed knock, the problem is worn U-joints, worn side gear thrust washers, or excessive pinion bearing shaft bore.
If the noise is drive line snap, the following are suspected items:
*High engine idle speed
*Incorrect transmission shift speeds
*Loose motor, transmission, or transfer case mounts
*Worn U-joints
*Loose spring mounting hardware
*Loose pinion gear nut
*Excessive ring gear backlash
*Excessive side gear-to-case clearances
VIBRATION
Check for the following:
*A damaged or bent drive shaft
*Missing drive shaft balance weights
*Out of balance wheels & tires
*Loose wheel lug nuts
*Worn or binding U-joints
*Loose, weak, or broken rear springs
*Worn or damaged axle shaft bearing(s)
*Loose pinion gear nut
*Excessive pinion yoke runout
*Bent axle shafts
Regards,
Dusty
I wish to replace the shocks, and wish to find out about who made the OEM Shocks and what model they might be.
I do like the ride they had which was a lot like a passenger car. I wish to kepp the ride and handling the same. Perhaps increase the handling aspects.
I have read on the forum about the edelbrock shocks. My concern is that they may be too HD for my liking and give a more truck like performance.
i drive perdominatley on Freeways, no real snow to contend with. I do not often carry heavy loads. Someone suggested that the oem might be a Monroe Sensa Trac, and suggestted Monroe Reflex as a suitable replacement. I really do wish to keep the good ride and handling I experienced when first purchased, and figure most places will not let me drive on the shocks for a few months and replace them with another model or brand if i do not like them.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
After a lot of research, I found that the Edelbrick IAS (Inertia Active System) shock absorbers are perhaps the very best available for my 2000 Dak. They have the ability to "sense" the difference between a quick jolt and a slow movement. This allows them to instantly respond over freeway expansion joints while at the same time remain 'stiff' when braking or turning. This improves the ride AND reduces nozedive/sway when braking/turning.
Also, the Edelbrock IAS shock are a true MONOTUBE design... this is far superiour to most of the other absorbers on the market. (You can get IAS shocks in twin-tube if money is tight... but you get what you pay for!)
It took me about 20 minutes to install the rear ones (just lie under truck and unbolt the existing ones!!) To replace the front shocks, you have to remove the wheels
BOTTOM LINE: If you are replacing the shock absorbers, installing EDELBROCK IAS is the easiest way to improve the ride and handling of your Dak. No other company is even allowed to use the IAS technology because Edelbrock has the sole rights to the design.
I had researched the Edelbrock shocks, but was unsure if it would take away from the Car like drive. As mine is a 2WD and not a real work truck, I was afraid of the results.....
What sort of 200 Dakota do you drive? Is it a 2WD Sport with the tire and handling Package?
Do you know of the Monroe's, or the Rancho, or a few of the others? I will look into the Edelbrock IAS. Thanks.
My main goal was to build a small truck suitable for Vermont winters with a V8 in it. The Dakota was the perfect fit.
If you are still running the original shock absorbers on your 2000 Dak, you have been without much in the way of 'ride' for at least 6 years. You will find that even the cheepest replacemens would be better than what you are currently running. (original shocks are truly junk)
From what I have read, the "Rancho" are more for off-road and that is one reason I did not consider them.
Not only does the Edelbrock have the pantented IAS system which is VERY sensitive and quick acting to make for a comfortable ride, they also improve braking and cornering due to their unique ability to "sense" and stiffen-up under those condiditons. In fact, the IAS shocks are installed what would be considerd "upside down" from 'normal' shock absorbers. (due to the pantented design) The Edelbrock come with rubber boots that protect them from the salt-spray which comes off of Vermont roads. Please review the weblink to Edelbrock IAS I provided in my last append.
I know it is a tough choice because you cannot "test drive" different absorbers to make a choice. (sorta like exhaust systems...) Once it is bolted to your truck, you either live with it or buy somthing else.
A few questions:
Are you indicating that when you installed those IAS shocks the truck rode better?
Did you install all four at the same time?
How many miles on them and how would you judge the ride and handling now?
Where's the best price?
I've got 78K on mine and I can't say the ride has degraded much for most driving. I don't have any bounce or suspension related problems. Now I keep a lot of air in my tires and maybe it's just my imagination since I put new tires the Dak this past summer with one size larger tire, but this winter the factory shocks seem to have gotten a lot stiffer.
Bests,
Dusty
I am curious to what year and options Dakota you have. As You can read I use mine more as a car than a truck. I am interested in the Edelbrocks, but wish I could get comparisons to Billstein HD, or KYB monomax, Rancho, Monroe Reflex. I wish to have the benefits of more contact with the road, but do wish to avoid a harsher or stiffer ride.
The best price I have seen for the IAS from Edelbrock is $72.77 at eshocks as BPeebles mentioned
of course some of the others are as low as $30. As expressed, not like I can take them back in a week if i do not like the ride... Any thoughts from your side? I assume you are also driving a 4WD
Once again mine is a 2000 2wd 3.9 L Club cab Sport with the tire and handling package, which I guess just had the 255/65 R15 tires and a rear torsion bar.
Yes - I shoveled snow all weekend. (several hours each day).. I am ready for mud-season (In Vermont, all the back roads become mudpits until the ground completely thaws.)
Are you sure that the "stiffer ride" you are experiencing is not just the frost-heaves? I have heard MANY people complain about a bumpy ride in the spring.... They are not considering the frost-heaves.
The original shocks on my 2000 Dak were shot after about a year. The rears were leaking fluid and there was a dangerous sideways "jump" to the side over freeway expansion joints.
Thus, I have had the Edelbrock IAS for about 6 years. I bolted the rears on as soon as they arrived (because they were so easy to install with truck on the ground.) I installed the fronts about a week later.
There is NO QUESTION that my Dak rides better with the IAS shocks. I can now use full-throttle accelleration over expansion joints and the rear end kinda "hunkers down" and grabs the road over each bump.(hard to explain...) It is hard to get the rear wheels to break free over bumps.... wheras before, they would easilly leap off the road and start spinning. (2nd gear - full throttle!)
As for best price, I have not been in the market for shock-absorbers for about 6 years. No matter what you choose, I would suggest you research the several available websites and make your selecection. (Consider shipping-costs before you order! .. the cheapest is not always the least-expensive)
I am leaning that way with a new daughter in the household. Like to save a little bit, but BPeebles makes a strong case for the Edelbrock IAS. I understand that the Reflex are now a monotube design....
I would love to hear from anyone with the similar 2WD sport tire and handling package.
Mine is a 2003 Club Cab Sport Plus, 4.7 engine, 545RFE transmission with 3.55 limited slip 9 1/4 rear axle and 16 x 8 inch cast aluminum wheels, front and rear sway bars. I've since replaced the Goodyear P245/70R16s with Michelin P255/70R16 LTX M/S. My factory invoice doesn't say anything about having a handling package, but I guess it came standard with the Sport Plus in '03.
I can't remember the model of Goodyear tire I had originally, but I really like the Michelin LTXs. They have better snow traction and are significantly quieter. i can't complain much about the Goodyears, I got 55,000 miles out of them and they still had five or ten thousand left.
Best regards,
Dusty
By the way, love Vermont! Live Free or Die.
Yeah, we get heaving of course, but the Dak seems to be stiffer in the mornings especially even on otherwise smooth road. I'm suspicious that there's moisture in the shock fluid that's freezing and causing the ride to be very stiff. It appears to be much more noticeable in the rear...of course, where's there little weight.
In fact, this caused me to recall a Ford Taurus I once worked on. The customer complained that the car "jumped" all over the road on real cold days. One day when the temperature was about 5 degrees above zero, this lady brought the car to me and asked me to drive it. Sure enough, it was like a bucking bronco. I could tell that the right rear was not bouncing, and upon further inspection we found the rear shock to be completely immovable. It was frozen in position.
It's possible that worn shock seals let in moisture, which causes interrupted shock movement. There are no signs of shock oil leaking from any of mine...yet. But they could still be worn.
Anyway, I'm thinking this spring I'll flip for new shocks. That's why I wanted to talk to you.
By the way, what color are the IAS shocks?
Bests,
Dusty
I expect that the bellows on the piston rods really keeps out the grime that could wear at the seals. Also, the IAS shocks have LARGER piston rods as well as DOUBLE seals. (the piston rods are also made of nitro-steel)
Basically the IAS shocs are a ONE TIME purchase. They are designed after desert-racing trucks. Their pantented design truly cross the boundaries of SOFT RIDE as well as CONTROLLED HANDLING in one package.
For me, I expect to drive my Dakota into the ground (keep it as long as I can) so it was a no-brainer for me to choose the MONOTUBE IAS shocks.
I also have a BORLA 100% stainless exhaust system that carries their famous "million mile warantee". I also use RadLine lube in all 4 gearcases (Xmission, Xfercase, front/rear diff.)
BTW: I purchased my IAS shocks from SHock warehouse out of florida.
I've elected to keep mine completely stock, although I have toy'ed with the idea of putting a larger Throttle Body on the 4.7. But in all honesty, she runs fine and performs well as it is for my purposes. Overall I'm quite happy.
But I think it's time to retire the shocks.
Best regards,
Dusty
As for Balljoints. I reported issues early on with mine and when I received the recall notice contacted Chrysler Canada and USA (My 2000 Dakota) was purchased in Ottawa and I currently reside in the San Francisco Bay area. I was flatly refused. My ball joints were in need of replacement, but under no circumstances would Chrysler do it or even pay for a pro rated replacement. I do have a lot of miles on my truck. Currently 252,000 km or 156,500 miles. I was back in Ottawa in Sept 2005 and my brother in law who is a great mechanic replaced the ball joints for me at the garage he works at. The mileage was 205,000km or 127,000 miles. He of course did an alignment as well. I cost me about $550 CDN. I was quoted $750 US at a local Midas, and of course more at any Dealer. I did keep the instructions that Chrysler included with the parts. If you like I could e-mail them to you. It seems to be a bit of a process as you need to grind of the old ones before installing the new ones.
I would suggest calling Chrysler. I get the impression they have determined on their own which VIN will get the ball joints at what mileage. I obviously was not lucky. In my research, those Dakotas in winter climates with snow, salt and slush seem to be more at risk... but would probably get the work done, no matter. Safety.
The noises you're experiencing are all typical of a bad ball joint. The uppers were recalled and you should still be able to get them replaced under warranty. I believe the ball joints were warranted for ten years under the recall.
A-arm bushings typically looked cracked or split at the very end that is visible just underneath the washer. That is not an indicator that the bushings are bad. In order to really judge the state of the bushings, a pry bar should be used to detect movement at the pivot points, or relieve the A-arm from the frame and visibly check them.
At the moment I don't recall what year Dak you have, but '99s through '02s were famous for noisy sway bar bushings. Chrysler has since upgraded the sway bar bushing material, but I've been told by a number of Dakota owners that aftermarket urethanes are the better item and probably good for the life of most Daks.
Best regards,
Dusty
I believe you can get a reimbursement from Chrysler for the ball joints you replaced as long as you have a valid receipt. I know of one individual that was reimbursed.
When I did my first tire rotation soon after taking delivery of my 2003, I noticed that the rubber joint bellows (cover) were collapsed on both upper and lowers. I mentioned this to the dealer service manager and he said to get the truck right in and they'd get some grease in them. I was pleasantly surprised that when I drove up they had a technician waiting for me. I never shut the engine off, they took it right in and greased them.
I knew about the possibility of short ball joint life on previous Daks when I bought the truck, since I know a number of previous owners. Mine were replaced well after 50K, so I suspect that the early greasing help stretch the life.
The issue with the joints, by the way, was a defective seal assembly technique by the component manufacturer (TRW) that allowed moisture into the ball joint.
Bests,
Dusty
Has anyone else been in a similiar situation or think if he writes or phones Chrysler North America that he might be able to recoup at least some of his costs?
Thanks
I questioned her for several minuts...explaining that I already had the upper balljoints replaced. She INSISTED that a Dodge dealer MUST inspect/replace them anyway.
I put the front end up on stands and took off the tires and then the rotors and pulled out the wheel bearings, inboard and outboard, cleaned out the grease from them and the races and inspected them as well as I could. I spun the bearings but couldn't see, hear or feel any trace of roughness or wear. I regreased the bearings and put them back in the rotors and reinstalled everything. The noise was still there.
I then put the right side up on a stand and this time removed the outboard bearing and put in a new one (just the cone, not using the race provided, but leaving the old race in the rotor). I reassembled and heard the same noise on road testing.
I tried swapping the passenger side front wheel and tire with the rear, but found no change.
I then put the old bearing back in and brought the truck to a tire shop and asked them to have a look/listen and give me an opinion. Their $20 result was to say that the tires are OK but I probably have a bad wheel bearing.
I went home and bought a set of bearings and races for the passenger side rotor and took the cleaned rotor to a local machine shop to have the old races removed and the new ones installed. The shop also "cut" the disc surfaces because they said it isn't always possible to exactly match the position of the new race with the old race's position. I took the rotor home, installed the bearings and new seal for the inboard bearing and heard the same noise with a road test.
Today I took the truck to another tire shop for a second opinion. That mechanic also road tested the truck, put it up on a lift and spun the wheels and his $15 opinion is that the problem was a bad bearing on the drivers side.
I took the truck home and got another new set of races and bearings for the driver's side, but only installed the bearings, leaving the old races in the drivers side rotor. Road test showed that the same noise was still there.
The only odd thing I have noticed in all this is that one of the wheel studs on the passenger side seemed to allow the lug nut to keep turning tighter and tighter. I didn't notice this last time I put the tire and wheel on, so maybe it was not really happening. I looked at the rear side of the stud and it hasn't pulled any deeper into the wheel, and I haven't noticed the stud itself turning.
Would appreciate any guesses as to what can be happening.
In case it hasn't been brought to your attention yet, "LIVE FREE or DIE" is New Hampshires state slogan.
Enjoy all the info on this forum.
Getting back to the mechanic, he also held a mechanic's stethescope to the differential near the drivers side axle (this is a two-wheel rear drive pickup) and I could hear some noise, which he described it as a "growling".
He didn't listen to the transmission near the output bearing, but said he is almost certain the problem is in the differential, or possibly the rear axle bearings. (I seem to get in a real no-brain state when talking to any mechanic at any shop, and didn't think to ask him to listen to the transmission, although I had left a typed detailed description of the noise, my work, and also left a new transmission rear seal I had bought a couple of months ago, in case he found that was the source of the noise.)
He also had me get in the pickup on the lift and put the transmission in drive to hear the noise, and it was the same as I hear when driving, so I suppose that proves beyond a doubt that the noise isn't coming from the front wheels, but I'm not as certain about it coming from the differential and not the transmission.
I'll take the truck in to another shop tomorrow for a "second opinion".
Unless you find somone reliable to perform the differential rebuild, you may not be happy with the results. A shop that rebuilds differentials for racecars would have the skill.
You may want to consider just having a complete rear-axle assembly installed from a salvage yard. The cost may be less than a differential rebuild. (and the warantee may be the same as a rebuild)
Whatever you do, consider using RedLine lube in the differential in the future. The extra cost is well worth it considering it would have likely PREVENTED this failure in the first place.
Went to a second mechanic and he agrees the problem is the differential.
I rolled under the pickup this afternoon with one wheel off the ground, a jack stand holding it up. Then I marked the propeller shaft (drive shaft) with chalk and put a chalk mark on the raised tire and rotated the tire forward to get 10 revolutions of the shaft. I did the same on the other rear wheel.
The result for both wheels is that 10 shaft revolutions make about 5 and 5/8 wheel revolutions, or about 1.78 shaft revolutions per wheel revolution. I think you're supposed to multiply this by 2 to get the gear ratio between the pinion gear and the ring gear, so I am guessing my ratio is about 3.56.
I also took a photo of the differential from the cover end. There is a metal tag fastened under one of the cover bolts. I enlarged the photo and it looks to me as id the the tag has this lettering: "1|8.3" . Could this be 1 ring gear tooth per 8.3 pinion gear teeth? If I multiply by 2, this becomes 3.66.
Am I figuring all this right?