Chrysler Cirrus Maintenance and Repair

moolee472moolee472 Member Posts: 1
in Chrysler
My car is a 1995 Cirrus.

I just recently had to replace my trans replaced and the rear. My tranny Guy said this has been a problem for Chrysler, but there is no recall. The problem is, that when the retaining pin in the carrier snaps and the pin that holds the spider gears together falls out and boom like my rear. The problem was corrected years later he told me. My car had only 30,000 miles on it. This car was garaged keep by my wifes uncle until he passed away. My tranny guy said this could happen at any time. So if you hear any noise at all in your front end, like a rattle, or like you might have run somthing over get it checked.

The repair for this problem is $10.00 worth of parts, not including labor.
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  • slickster0515slickster0515 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Cirrus with 53000 miles, automatic transmission, and only normal maintenance done on it. I turned the heater on and the air does not get hot. My local mechanic change the theromstat and flushed the system, but it still did not work. He said that there is a defective valve that open a door to change the air temperature. He spoke with the local dealer and they say it is not a defect, but wants to charge me $500.00 to change the syatem out.
    I do not trust the dealer and my mechanic says it is out of his capabilities.
    What do you suggest?
  • ladyvanessaladyvanessa Member Posts: 3
    Hello! I have a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus and it has been a very good reliable car. I recently had the check engine light come on so I went to autozone and had a free readout. This is what came back:

    Troubleshooting P1494
    OEM Brand: Chrysler

    Definition :

    Evap Leak Detection pump pressure switch condition

    Explination:

    ECM detected the leak detection pump switch did not change after the solenoid was energized

    Probably Causes:

    1. Leak detection pump defective
    2. open or shorted circuit condion
    3. solenoid defective

    This is driving me crazy because my car still drives fine and its holiday time and im broke! I really dont want my car to turn into a heap. My husband unplugged the battery cables and reset the light but then it came back on. So we know there is a problem. We took it to the shop and they wont accept the autozone readout and want us to shell out a ton for a diagnostic. Any ideas on what the heck could be causing this? Like I said the car is driving fine, it has always cut out once and a while when I try to accelerate.. but other than that no change. Thanks so much!!

    Vanessa :)
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    You might want to post this over in Got a Quick Technical Question?. The mechanic experts there may be able to give you some advice.
  • aprilwavesaprilwaves Member Posts: 1
    My heater is blowing frigid cold air. After replacing the thermostat I had warm air temporarily. I have flushed the heatercore and had 92 degree air coming out the vents. Turned off the car for maybe an hour and restarted...no heat. Replaced the waterpump, had vent temp. of 101 degrees. Went a block down the street and back to cold air again. I have also noticed my cars normal running temp is lower than it was before all this started. I am also getting crap for gas mileage, not sure if the two are related. Any ideas?
  • gmar2gmar2 Member Posts: 3
    I have to change my front struts on my '99 cirrus. Does anyone know what type of spring compressor I need. The coil springs are very close together and most compressors won't work. The parts stores loaned me two types but they won't work. Thanks
  • cirrusfailcirrusfail Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1999 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi. 2.5L V6. It only has 60,000 miles on it and I have already sank thousands into the car over the 3 years I have owned it trying to fix it.

    There are innumerable problems that have occurred with this vehicle, which I have researched, and have found that it happens in all of this make/model.

    - Power Steering Pump Failure
    - AC Blower Motor only working on the Highest level
    - Oxygen/Speedometer/Fuel Sensors needing replacement VERY often
    - Fuel Gauge never makes it to "the red" it stops at 1/4 once it reaches that point and never goes farther down
    - Check Engine light comes on sporadically, causing the computer to not allow the vehicle to shift past 2nd gear
    - Lack of Differential causes front left tire to wear down extremely fast compared to other tires
    - Leak in windshield washer fluid lines somewhere

    All of these are rather expensive repairs. The car is constantly having a problem. It seems the second I fix one of them, another sensor will go out, or a pump will stop working correctly.

    My best advice I could give anyone is to never invest in one of these vehicles no matter what. The headaches and repair bills are not worth it at all.
  • robert1975robert1975 Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Lxi has jut passed the 130K mark and, for the most part, is still running strong (with the exception of a coolant system 'mishap'--it's on a local lift as we speak. That's another discussion entirely).

    I have noticed a "jump" or a "slip" in the shifting more and more lately. I bought it back in February of 2006 with around 60K from the first owner. I knew going in that the transmission was a source of concern for the Cirrus, but I found no specifics as I researched...and I needed a car!

    I did a test (and repeated it numerous time to make sure):
    I got out on well-paved, fairly level road with absolutely no traffic at that time of day (small town). I accelerated very moderately--Sunday-driving slow in fact. From 1st to 2nd was smooth as silk. I watched the RPM's to make sure the shifting I was feeling was really a shift and not a jump. In 2nd gear I felt the "jump" or "slip" but there was no change in RPM's and then, as expected, it shifted to 3rd just fine...then to 4th (just fine). I did it over and over again with the same result. With heavier acceleration, shifting is pretty smooth--I don't know how to explain THAT, but it is.

    Can anyone give me any insight into this BEFORE I starting fishing around for tranny guys to look at it and break bad new to me? Thanks
  • leitheiserleitheiser Member Posts: 6
    I bought a 99 also had 143k miles picked up for $2300. it has two small dints. I just love my car. i get roughly 30 mpg on the highway and about 25 in town, depending how much i get on it. sucker scoots. only problems i am having is driver side back wheel. i need to change the pads and rotter and the oil light coming on at stop lights. :shades:
  • robert1975robert1975 Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like you got yourself a :lemon: . My 2000 LXi with 130K+ is doing just fine after a minor tranny repair, 3 outer freeze plug replacements, and radiator replacement. Check for recalls and see about a course of action.
  • mcdocsmcdocs Member Posts: 6
    My T&C has been acting weird and has displayed different codes on two visits to AutoZone, the latest being P1494 (EVAP leak detection pump). My minivan is doing many strange things electrically, all of which can be caused by a faulty ground, I suppose, including the P1494. I, too, am searching for answers. Does anyone know where a ground fault is most likely to be? Thanks in advance.
  • slickster0515slickster0515 Member Posts: 2
  • zeta1zeta1 Member Posts: 5
    Does any one know how to change the light for the climate control panel ? Very hard to work the controls at night -- I have the bulb, now have to figure out how to get the new bulb in -- help !!!! thanks. Zeta sorry -- It is a 2000 Cirrus
  • silicon_ghostsilicon_ghost Member Posts: 2
    heres my problem. i replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter in my girlfriends 96 chrysler cirrus. after i got everything put back together, i took it to the gas station to fill it up. when it filled up, gas started pouring out the top of the tank! now i double checked everything and made sure the cap that screws down on the pump was tight and the o-ring around it was flush and the notches matched up. i did it less than a week ago and she says there is a strong gas smell still. she is worried about driving because she fears that the car will blow up if she gets in a wreck. she still has at least 3/4 full tank and i dont want to have to drop it and empty the gas out of it again. i'm waiting until its close to be empty before i do anything. now my question is does anyone know what might be causing the leak or gas smell? im thinking there is still some gas sitting on the top of the tank from when it spilled out but i dont know what could be causing the leak.
  • pnegronpnegron Member Posts: 2
    Well everytime I drive my car and hit a bump or make turns i hear a chime like if my door is open the door indicator will flash how can I disable that annoying chime
  • pnegronpnegron Member Posts: 2
  • willrhwillrh Member Posts: 1
    check the doors, I had to put a metal washer under the door sensor. It was driving my daughter nuts. The contact is not making a contact with the car frame.
  • sammy37sammy37 Member Posts: 1
    97 chrysler cirrus 41te auto trans lost 4th gear. changed trans module no difference. any body know whats wrong?
  • seansemkeseansemke Member Posts: 3
    i have had a 95 cirrus lxi for about 4 years now. It has been a dream until the last 2 or so months. started with the tranny slipping,then got worse and would go into limp mode at will. so i had a used tranny put it from a friend who owns a wrecker... same issues... took it to a tranny shop, was told gear ratios were bad and the clutch was dying on it. soi bit, and got a rebuilt. seems to be ok now, had the 2 speed sensors replaced aswell. it also likes to stall out at lights, randomly... then i cant start it. seems like i have to let it cool down. today it was 20 or so mins, other day it was an hour. i get the egr code coming up twice on me. could this be the problem?
  • sapphyresapphyre Member Posts: 2
    :sick: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
    The Chrysler Cirrus is a excellent example of why Chrysler is now bankrupt.
    I will NEVER EVER buy another Chrysler automobile.
    They look real pretty sitting broke down on the side of the road.
  • sapphyresapphyre Member Posts: 2
    I am having the exact same problem. Mine is also a 95 Cirrus lxi. I am the original owner and have had multiple problems over the years. When I contacted Chrysler Corp. to discuss a dealer complaint, I was told by a Cust Serv. Rep. named Jason H. that they "Don't care." I should have gotten rid of the car then but it was paid for and I wanted to buy a house so I had the problems fixed and kept the car since it was paid for. This was 4 years ago.
    I just had a fuel pump put in and the car drove fine for exactly one day. Now it won't start. I hate Chrysler cars and will NEVER buy another one.
    The car has never been in an accident of any kind (Thank God) and only has 109,000 miles on it. I have gotten its tuneups when required and made sure it got oil changes every 3 months. I treated my car very well but it kicks me in the a** everytime.
    I had a 79 Honda Accord hatchback in college. It made it to almost 225,000 miles and the only major problem I had was with the brakes and the windshield wipers.
    My next car will not be a Chrysler.
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :confuse: :sick:
  • seansemkeseansemke Member Posts: 3
    i have had responses for my problem, and it seems to be one of two things... the crank sensor, or the dist cap and rotor. so I'll be doing both of those myself. but if that weren't enough, the rebuilt tranny is acting up days after it was thrown in. good thing for the warranty. :)
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 23,969
    Wow, glad I didn't get a '99.

    To the OP the only problem you mention that I've had is the shift/check engine/ only shifts to 2nd problem. For me it was the shift selinoid pack that needed replacing ($250). I also had the oil light go on at idle like someone mentioned. That was just a cheap $15 sensor.

    The only other problem that my Cirrus has given me is the water pump. I've replaced it twice. Brakes seem to only last 30-40K miles too.

    So it's not a Honda OK? But I only paid about $7000 used with 24K miles on it . It now has 116 K and runs like a top. I see them for sale on Craigslist with well over 150K miles so they must last almost as long as the Japanese cars.

    In the end you get what you pay for.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • chrysler_1998chrysler_1998 Member Posts: 5
    :confuse: :sick: The only issue i am having right now with my cirrus is it is only firing on 4 cylinders number 4 & 5 are misfiring. I have changed the spark plugs and plug wires, it still misfires on # 4&5 cylinders. I am gonna try changing the distributor cap and rotor, but if that does not work .......any other ideas?....
  • cirrusfailcirrusfail Member Posts: 2
  • chrysler_1998chrysler_1998 Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like the "crank sensor", i had a 1992 Buick Lesabre do the same thing.
  • chrysler_1998chrysler_1998 Member Posts: 5
    I would first try changing the Transmission filter.
  • robert1975robert1975 Member Posts: 3
  • silicon_ghostsilicon_ghost Member Posts: 2
  • chrysler_1998chrysler_1998 Member Posts: 5
    Check the gas hose, may have a hole in it.
  • holdthewindholdthewind Member Posts: 3
    98 Cirrus with the V6. Crank sensor went out and I replaced the sensor. Now when I have the car in gear and depress the throttle quickly the engine stumbles like there's not enough fuel being delivered to the engine, the engine will not increase in RPM's but will act like its starved for fuel. I can keep it pinging and not getting fuel if i keep my foot in the throttle. It will return to normal when i get out of the throttle. When I slowly press the throttle the engine seems to increase in RPM's fine. I checked the EGR and that seems to be fine. The check engine light doesn't come on and I've tried the key on/off looking for a code to no avail.
  • holdthewindholdthewind Member Posts: 3
    98 Cirrus with the V6. Crank sensor went out and I replaced the sensor. Now when I have the car in gear and depress the throttle quickly the engine stumbles like there's not enough fuel being delivered to the engine, the engine will not increase in RPM's but will act like its starved for fuel. I can keep it pinging and not getting fuel if i keep my foot in the throttle. It will return to normal when i get out of the throttle. When I slowly press the throttle the engine seems to increase in RPM's fine. I checked the EGR and that seems to be fine. The check engine light doesn't come on and I've tried the key on/off looking for a code to no avail.
  • holdthewindholdthewind Member Posts: 3
  • jmgrojjmgroj Member Posts: 2
    be sure that the crank sensor was installed properly. its an adjustable piece and if its off by any amount you will have problems. There should be a little paper spacer on the top of the crank sensor, make sure its clean and depressed all the way to the drive plate. Good luck
  • seansemkeseansemke Member Posts: 3
  • dino7023dino7023 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 95 chrysler cirrus i change the fuelpump and did a full tune up on it and when start it . it run for about 10mins and stop and now it wont start i just went out side to start it and now it run like trash but when i try to gave gas it wont take the gas all the seners are all new i dont no what it can be so can u help me pls
  • gmar2gmar2 Member Posts: 3
  • hopeicanhelphopeicanhelp Member Posts: 4
    I don't know if you got it fixed yet - that code has to do with basically the way the car handles the fumes from the gas - be aware it can be a difficult code to clear and if the car is running fine it will be ok - if you open the hood they will be a sticker with a diagram (catalyst) - you are looking for a breaks or leaks - use your fingers and nose - like i said it can difficult - remember there not only a mechanical side to it but also an electrical side - good luck PEACE
  • ladyvanessaladyvanessa Member Posts: 3
  • huffy04huffy04 Member Posts: 3
    does anyone know how to unlock a steering wheel. I've been told it might be the cars anti left lock that locks the wheels so the car will go in circles. thank you
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,241
    Anyone who might have ideas will need more info from you.

    Are you able to start the car with the key? What happened to cause it to lock - did you just get in it, and find that the wheel is locked?

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
    Review your vehicle

  • huffy04huffy04 Member Posts: 3
  • huffy04huffy04 Member Posts: 3
  • ralphpiperralphpiper Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus, v6 2.5L. When starting the car it revs up to 2000-2200 rpm then drops back down. There is "NO" check engine light on & runs fine. But can't figure out why it starts this way! What is the fix for this problem or is this just normal for this type of car to start up???
  • ralphpiperralphpiper Member Posts: 2
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,241
    Since this model is no longer in production and we have a fairly limited number of Cirrus owners in this forum, you might have better luck posting in our answers section here:
    http://answers.edmunds.com

    We often find members with mechanical expertise who pop in and answer questions there.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
    Review your vehicle

  • profuprofu Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone. I have a 98 Cirrus LX 2,5 V6. The check engine light is on and I read the P0112 & P1496 trouble codes. I replaced the air intake temperature sensor, but the codes are still there. I want to replace the PCM, but I am not sure that it shall solve the issue. Also, from time to time, with no rule, the engine stops and restarts immediately. It does this in park or drive, doesn't matter. Do you think the PCM is bad? Any advise will be greatly appreciated.
  • momsmetal77momsmetal77 Member Posts: 1
    i have a cirrus lxi version of the chrysler cirrus, this thing is haunted! it has done the wierdest stuff since i bought it,overall for the most part it has been a good car,but possessed and does what it wants,lol! it's a real looker too,whitew/ black tints and great system,but anyways lately when it rains hard or even when extremely muggy and damp in the mornings only,it seems to run soooo rough and make a putt putt putt noise until it dry's i guess? i thought it might be the filter,but if it was filter it wouldn't straighten up after dryed. i've put every sensor on it,new fuel pump and coil pack,it's had wires/plugs changed,i mean i just don't get it,anyone ever had this problem with their chrysler cirrus? help! :mad
  • obxdreaminobxdreamin Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2014

    I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus LXI which I love. However, recently there seems to be ongoing engine problems. Wet, rainy days it would not start. It would turn over till battery died. Found mice had chewed the plug wires. So I had them replaced. That got the car to start. Then it just died at the doctor's office and the battery light came on. I had the alternator replaced. That seemed to have got the car running. Next day the "check engine" light came on. Had it checked out at AutoZone. Code said the EGR valve was bad. Had that replaced. Now the car hesitates as I drive with or without A/C, going up hills or trying to accelerate. All work was done by mechanic. I'm running out of money (as I am unemployed and caregiver for disabled spouse). Seems like the engine is not firing right causing the hesitation. Any one have a clue to save me from going to the mechanic uneducated and at the risk of fixing something that isn't broken.
    Further, the mechanic replaced my fuel pump and now the car runs out of gas when it hits 1/8th of a tank. Never ran out of gas before in all my years of driving. Any clue with this so I can get it fixed?

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