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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    got an '88 suburban silverado over here thats havin some interesting window problems. they seem to be sticky, but i sprayed silicone in the cloth tracks and it made not a bit of difference. when rolling up the drivers side window, the motor just stops and doesnt work for a few (20-30 seconds) and then starts going again. is the window motor givng up because its so sticky? or are they even sticky at all because if they were, then the silicone would have fixed it right? im so confused because its gonna be mine here real soon when i get my permit, and i dont want to have the motors replaced, so if it is the motors then ill bribe my mom to replace them before its mine. ;) anyone here have any ideas on how to fix it?
  • jrphillipsjrphillips Member Posts: 5
    I have a 03 Suburban that won't start. 5.3 2w drive. Parked it one night with everything fine. Next morning it would not start. It acts like it tries to start then shuts down. Fuel pump is making noise when you turn key on. Any suggestions?
  • nangoldstonnangoldston Member Posts: 4
    have a mechanic run a diagnostic on it. Mine was fuel injectors. Tune up didnt help,neither did a new coil. this is 2nd suburban I have had with fuel injector probs.
    hope this helps
    :sick:
  • nangoldstonnangoldston Member Posts: 4
    My 98 has 124000 miles on it, with recent full tuneup, new coil, new radiator and alternator. My prob is everytime I climb a steep hill and put a load on the engine, the engine shakes and the SES light comes on. First time, diagnostics said no. 3 fuel injector, so we replaced it. went on vacation and while climbing VA hills, SES on again. This time, diagnostics state no. 4 and no. 7 fuel injectors. is this common? My mechanic was worried that he "knocked something loose" when he replaced the first injector and is sending me to the chevy dealership, who can run more specific diagnostics. I love my suburban and just want it to run correctly. after replacing the injector, he cleaned the fuel system out my backflusshing, which only made it run worse!!! I would appreciate any advice.
    thanks
  • thiseythisey Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2003 Suburban. Three times my suburban has failed to start. Engine light comes on, lose the clock, and when I turn the ignition only a clicking noise is made. When I remove the keys the odometer and speedometer needles rise. Twice boosting has started the vehicle, third time unsuccessful. Vehicle was towed to GM dealer and left over long weekend. I visited the vehicle to recover some items and found no power at all to open locks etc. Two days later the GM dealer started the vehicle without boosting and called to ask me what the problem was. Explained it to them as this was second visit to dealer. GM Technical is involved and cannot explain problem as it cannot be replicated by dealer. Again dealer says battery, alternator, cables etc is fine. GM is going to keep vehicle for rest of week to see if no start can be replicated.
    Any ideas?
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    Start by replacing the battery with a new one.My suburban is a 2002 and it's on it's third battery. Then you can eliminate that problem. I belive if it detects a undervolt it wont start just click. Also make sure your battery connections are tight. I am not a mechanic just had some experince with mine. Kim M.
  • thiseythisey Member Posts: 11
    Replaced battery and found a Mechanic who showed me a GM service bulletin for no starts on Suburbans. It recommends replacing the ignition relay part no. 12177236($10.00 part). I have replaced it and so far so good.
  • jbran95jbran95 Member Posts: 10
    I also have a 3/4ton 8.1L '01 Suburban, I've replaced the MAF, CPS, TPS, along with checking all connections.I even checked to see if it might be related to the alarm/remote start. The problem was solved for about 1-2 weeks then it came back worse. Now if it stalls while driving it can take 20-30 minutes of waiting before you can re-start it. It also has a few new symptoms, 1. it went into Tow/Haul mode by itself 2. After leaving it parked for 2-3 hrs. it sometimes takes 15-20 tries to get it started. I have all but given up on it! Anyone have any new Ideas?
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    I have had the same trouble. I replaced the same parts you did. I hope that Didier came help us out with this problem. Pleases keep ne updated if you can find anything that solve this problem. Have you had a service dept check codes? Maybe PCM computer ? Thanks Kim M. Good Luck
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    What is the bulletin number? Where is the ignition relay located? Tell me more about it. Thanks Kim M
  • redsuburbanredsuburban Member Posts: 4
    I have a 90 Suburban. Only 100,000 miles. Running perfectly. Had the fuel pump changed b/c we were in the gas tank for another reason. One week later stepped on the gas and a huge loss of power. Would only go about 15 to 20 miles per hour. When you would step on the gas it would rev up normally about 1/2 way to the floor then it "cuts out" and losses power. Check engine light comes on. It doesn't idle rough or run rough, just no power. This is very intermittent. It will work bad then run fine for a few miles, then bad, then fine for days then stalls completely & won't restart. We have had it in the shop numerous times. Cat. Conv. test fine. He has changed the fuel filter, ignition module, ignition coil. Now he wants to change the EGR valve. I think he is just guessing. The check engine light is never on by the time we get it back to the shop so it is tricky to figure out. Any suggestions?Thank you.
  • thiseythisey Member Posts: 11
    I do not recall the number. The GM mechanic I met did not want me letting the dealer know that he had showed the bulletin to me. The relay is number 5 and can be found in the engine compartment fuse box. The part is easily purchased at your GM parts dept for around $10.00 cdn.
  • rspencerrspencer Member Posts: 63
    My suggestion...change mechanics/dealers immediately. No one should "honestly" tell you that a code can't be read because the SES lite went out...before the truck got back into the shop. All codes are stored in memory. That's the way the system works...ie., no codes are lost. They must be manually erased. Someone is playing you.
  • redsuburbanredsuburban Member Posts: 4
    I was told from several folks that the code wasn't stored in this year. A 1990. That isn't true? Thanks
  • jbran95jbran95 Member Posts: 10
    I found that there are 2 crank sensors 1 at the front of the engine and 1 in the back. Although there are no service bulletins, they are both common problems. Another thing you can check is the ignition switch (a common problem). They also told me that if you have an aftermarket remote start or alarm they can cause similar problems. I'm going to replace the other sensor and remove my aftermarket stuff this weekend. I'll let you know what happens.
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for your reply. Since I replaced the crank sensor I haven't had any shut downs. But mine was a intermintent problem. I am going to keep the suburban and warranty has expired.If mechanics don't have a trouble code they don't know how to fix. We all need to stick together and help each other out. I have has many electrical problems since I bought this suburban,but I still like it and pulls my boat great. Keep us updated on yours. Good luck Kim M.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Sorry for the late response. Your question slipped by me...

    The MAP sensor in my '04 Tahoe is located on top of the intake manifold in the back end of the engine. The harness is the 3-wire connector that connects to the sensor.

    I got new connections from the dealer and soldered them on the wires myself. The dealer would not do anything and the vehicle was still well under warranty. The problem was fixed by the new connectors in the wires.

    Arrie
  • 02burban02burban Member Posts: 1
    It sounds to me like a bad/defective/incorrect fuel pump. Incorrect fuel pressure or supply is easily misdiagnosed as a bad cat convertor or plugged fuel filter. Did you install a universal fuel pump or dealer part? Good luck!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Last week on a trip I noticed the indicator lights for 4wd system would show in neutral or 2wd or 4wd low during various trips, (turning engine off and restarting would sometimes change the light). The transfer case was clearly in 2wd mode the entire time as I was driving normally.
    Yesterday I tried punching the 2wd button while the 4wd low light was on, 2wd light flashed several times then came on, and I now have "Service 4WD" message on.
    The transfer case now will not shift into other modes.

    I assume it is the electronic actuator but I am wondering if anyone else has had similar probs/ fixes.
    Thanks, Catam.
  • johnnyb4johnnyb4 Member Posts: 3
    My 97 suburban 4X4 has had it's transmission changed out in the past year. Recently, the vehicle feels "jerky" when shifting gears and while driving it feels like I'm pulling a heavy load (trailering feeling). When this has happened at Road speed, I've shifted down into 3rd and the jerking is still there. These problems only happen intermitantly and at no particular time (hot or cold, wet or dry). I can't figure out if its the transmission or an engine problem. Any ideas would be most helpful. thanks.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Dumb question, but are you in tow/haul mode?

    I'm always trying to rule out the obvious things. My wife drove around in 2nd gear all day once and complained about how hard it was to get up to speed on the highway... I was worried about all kinds of possible problems when 9 times out of 10 with some of us it's really just a goofy user error.
  • johnnyb4johnnyb4 Member Posts: 3
    No. Regular drive. I originally thought that the overdrive was kicking in/out but when I shifted down to 3rd, the same subtle jerking motion occurred.
  • lisagsplisagsp Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the specs for a '94 Suburban 1500 2WD 5.7L V8 placement positioning & adjustment for headlights? Help!!! Thanks.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Try changing transmission fluid. And for that, have it done at a dealer or buy transmission fluid from the dealer and insist using it regardless who changes the fluid.

    Arrie
  • arceconsarcecons Member Posts: 1
    HELLO I HAVE 2001 SUBURBAN AT COLD START IT RUNS REALLY ROUGH WHEN IT GETS TO NORMAL OP.. TEMP.. IT RUNS GOOD CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME WITH SOME IDEAS OF WHAT IT COULD BE ..THANKSS..
    :confuse:
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    my mom's 1988 suburban blew a head gasket a while ago and ever since it came out of our friends shop, we hear this grinding noise coming from the engine compartment. its especially noticeable at a stop light. what happens is that the engine wil be at an idle and then somethign starts grinding and the rpm's drop considerably, and it only lasts for a few seconds. then the rpm's raise back to normal, and then a few seconds later it will do it again. it seems to be getting worse, not more frequent, but now we can literally feel the grinding through the seats and floor. weird eh?
    :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
    we like...so ned to give up on chevy's cuz mum's boyfriend's tahoe is goin nuts and our burb is givin us problems..
  • nangoldstonnangoldston Member Posts: 4
    Hi again!! Thought I would repost and see if anyone could help me. My 98 has 124000 miles on it, with recent full tuneup, new coil, new radiator and alternator. My prob is everytime I climb a steep hill and put a load on the engine, the engine shakes and the SES light comes on. First time, diagnostics said no. 3 fuel injector, so we replaced it. went on vacation and while climbing VA hills, SES on again. This time, diagnostics state no. 4 and no. 7 fuel injectors. is this common? My mechanic was worried that he "knocked something loose" when he replaced the first injector and is sending me to the chevy dealership, who can run more specific diagnostics. I love my suburban and just want it to run correctly. after replacing the injector, he cleaned the fuel system out my backflusshing, which only made it run worse!!! Replaced intake manifold gasket according to Chevy dealership and didnt help. no. 4 and no.7 injectors were replaced and didnt help. so finally, my mechanic replaced the distributor PCM and it helped but randomly the engine jumps without the SES light coming on. I need help!!! could it be EGR valve or distributor cap or what? ????
  • alkemistalkemist Member Posts: 5
    :cry::cry: I HAVE A 2000 SUBURBAN 5.3 4WD 1500, I JUST CHANGED THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR ABOVE THE STARTER, BC MY CAR TURNS OFF WHEN I DRIVE AT A SLOW SPEED, LIKE THE ENGINE WILL TURN OFF AND IT WILL BE IN THE RUN POSITION WITH THE LIGHTS AND EVERYTHING REMAIN ON, OR WHEN I AM MAKING TURNS, IT'LL ALSO TAKE MANY TRIES FOR ME TO MAKE IT START UP AGAIN, SOMETIMES IT MIGHT TAKE 15-20 MINS, THE FUEL PUMP THEY TELL ME IS EPRFECT, THE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES ARE ALSO GOOD, THEY SAID THE BY CHANGING THE CRACKSHAFT SENSOR I WOULD BE GOOD, SO I BOUGHT AN AC DELCO 1, AND STILL NOTHING, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG AND THE MECHANICS HAVE NOTHIN GOIN EITHER, PLEASE I NEED A SOME HELP, WILL BE REALLY APPRECIATED, IM MISSING CLASSES BC OF THIS, :cry::cry:
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Check that you don't have a bad connection with MAP sensor wiring. I had in my '04 Tahoe and it shut the engine down when idling and the strangest thing with all this was that it did not set a code in the computer.

    Arrie
  • alkemistalkemist Member Posts: 5
    :cry::cry::cry: I PURCHASED A NEW MAP SENSOR, & STILL THE PROBLEM IS PERSISTING TO OCCUR, THANX FOR YOUR INPUT, BUT SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME, THANX!!!!! :cry::cry:
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    I have 2002 3/4 ton suburban and I have had the same problem. I change the fuel level sensors in the tank. I changed the crank sensor, but there were no trouble codes. Mine would shut down while driving then I would have to pull off the road and wait several minuets and it would start up like there was nothing wrong. Since I changed the crank sensor I have had no shut downs. There are several people on this site that are haveing the same shut down problems I hope someone will discover the solution and help out. Good Luck .. Kim M.
  • alkemistalkemist Member Posts: 5
    :cry: :mad: :cry::cry: I HAVE A 2000 SUBURBAN 5.3 4WD 1500, I JUST CHANGED THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR ABOVE THE STARTER, ALSO INSTALLED A NEW MAP SENSOR, BC MY CAR TURNS OFF WHEN I DRIVE AT A SLOW SPEED, LIKE THE ENGINE WILL TURN OFF AND IT WILL BE IN THE RUN POSITION WITH THE LIGHTS AND EVERYTHING REMAIN ON, OR WHEN I AM MAKING TURNS, IT'LL ALSO TAKE MANY TRIES FOR ME TO MAKE IT START UP AGAIN, SOMETIMES IT MIGHT TAKE 15-20 MINS,THE CAR ALSO LOSES ACCELERATION BEFORE TURNING OOF BUT AS I PRESS THE PEDDLE, IT WILL GO BACK INTO DRIVING, WHILE THE BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON, I REALLY AM LOST, SHEEDING TEARS WHILE I AM WRITING THIS POST, THE FUEL PUMP THEY TELL ME IS PERFECT, THE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES ARE ALSO GOOD, THEY SAID THE BY CHANGING THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR I WOULD BE GOOD, SO I BOUGHT AN AC DELCO 1, AND STILL NOTHING, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG AND THE MECHANICS HAVE NOTHIN GOIN EITHER, PLEASE I NEED A SOME HELP, WILL BE REALLY APPRECIATED, IM MISSING CLASSES BC OF THIS, :cry:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Just a suggestion - but you might consider turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS. Also, there is no need to type the same message repeatedly and in multiple locations.

    tidester, host
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Purchasing a new MAP sensor and replacing it does not help if you have bad connection with wire harness. My Tahoe had a bad female connectors in the harness and it didn't matter if the MAP sensor was new or old. The pins in the sensors are the same.

    You could try a trick here: Disconnect the MAP sensor and try starting your car. It should start and run in a pre-programmed mode using factory set program in the computer, i.e. the computer would not use signal from the sensor. This would put your 'Service Engine Soon'-light ON but you should be able to drive it. Your fuel consumption could be a little bit higher though.

    If your car still would shut down you can re-connect the MAP and try running with MAF disconnected. The same way the engine should run without using MAF with SES-light ON.

    Arrie
  • alkemistalkemist Member Posts: 5
    :shades: thanks to everyone for actaully carin and respondin to my posts, are really appreciate the help, shows the suburban love, but regardless, i found out what was wrong with the car, it was an electrical problem with the ignition wires the mechanic said, now it works perfectly, thanks alot, i hope every1 elses problems work out as well :):):) :shades:
  • kdmillerkdmiller Member Posts: 14
    What did they find with the ignition wires? which wires were bad and where?Thanks Kim M.
  • johnrobjohnrob Member Posts: 2
    Rattling noises @ 10-15 mph all four doors and back lift gate.

    Dealership attempted silicone twice -- which was not a permanent fix.

    Northeast rep from GM attempted a different kind of maintenance -- definitely NOT a fix -- and Customer Assistance Center was notified immediately of the 'not a fix' situation.

    GM just posted a bulletin on this problem.

    How many others affected by this problem???

    What is the fix???

    Distressed Surburban Owner who always loved his Chevys
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    johnrob said: GM just posted a bulletin on this problem.
    ___________________________________________________________
    What is the website address for this info?
  • greggbostongreggboston Member Posts: 39
    Hello,
    We have had very minor rubbing type noises from the rubber door seals. Dealer did apply silicone which did quiet it for a bit. What does the GM bulliten say to do for the issue? I'm thinking as the rubber breaks in it'll quiet down.

    -- Gregg
    Boston, Mass
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    ok, heres another quirk that jsut appeared in our 1988 Suburban...an annoying squeak. but this isnt jsut any sqeak. it stops when the gas is applied, at any pressure, and picks up when the gas is let off, usually below 25 mph, and while idling. its more like a chirping. at first, i thought that it was coming from the dash, but if it was, then it would be sqeaking all the time right? i also noticed that it started after it came out of the shop for a blown head gasket. the sqeak/chirp seems to be getting a tad bit worse, adn its driving us nuts!!!

    any ideeas or concerns would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Sounds to me like intake manifold gasket leak.

    It leaks worst when the vacuum inside manifold is the greatest, i.e. when you are driving slow or sitting still and idling. As soon as you apply gas pedal the pressure inside manifold raises (vacuum lowers) as the throttle opens and lets more air inside the intake. The engine will also use more air but typically during normal driving condition manifold pressure is higher than during slow speed and idle. It will start 'whining' with normal running speeds too if you don't have it fixed first.

    You had the head gasket changed so obviously they did not torque the intake manifold bolts correctly or they need to be re-torqued after some period from installation.

    The fix is to have your intake manifold bolts tightened to proper torque unless air leak has eaten the gasket requiring changing it.

    Of course the correct gasket also must be used.

    Arrie
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    osund good!!!!
    yea becasue you mentioned the whining and oh boy was it whining before the head gasket blew!!!! now it doesnt whine AS MUCH but it really squeaks.

    we really appreciate this info, but is it going to hurt anything?
  • 72chevelle172chevelle1 Member Posts: 1
    Make sure you have proper grounding also.
  • johnrobjohnrob Member Posts: 2
    Gregg:

    The silicone is a temporary fix -- but with the heat and cold weather, eventually cracks and the noise is back.

    Been there -- done that.

    My vehicle sounds as if a door or window is open while driving.

    Many others around town are experiencing the same problem.

    Have a ticket opened with GM to get the bulletin which the dealership tells me is supposed to be the fix. Verbally I am told it is just siliconing.

    But the Northeast service rep was given the day with the car and after 12 miles, the vehicle was returned to me with the top of the doors bent in and out of alignment.

    Unbelievable.

    He claims he only siliconed -- but silicone does not bend doors.

    GM claims he has authority to do what he needs to do to get the job done and to satisfy customers.

    If I had been asked if I would like the top of the doors bent into the rubber to silence the noise, well I think you know my answer: NO WAY -- don't touch this $55,000 vehicle.

    The noise is still there and the car is now disfigured.

    Still dealing with GM to get appropriate answers:
    1. who is holding the service rep responsible?
    2. when is the vehicle going to be fixed or replaced!

    Loved my Chevy -- cannot believe they would allow someone to damage it over rubber noise issues.

    Trying to find out how many others this was done to.

    JR
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I don't quite understand what you mean by 'is it going to hurt anything?'

    Leaking intake manifold gasket can cause faster engine wear as the air entering the engine thru gasket is not filtered air.

    The other thing it does is that it lowers your intake vacuum, i.e. increases intake manifold pressure that the MAP sensor reads. This can put your engine spark timing off and result in under power and lower gas mileage.

    Tightening intake manifold bolts to proper torque does not harm anything. You only have good things to gain if you can stop the leak.

    Arrie
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    well, you ansered the question, i was wondering if leaving it as it is, is going to hurt anything, such as harming the engine...and you answered the question

    again we thank you and hope to get it fixed sometime in the future
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Hey Gears,

    When you decide to do the fix that we talked about in the previous posts would you PLEASE post back to us if it fixed your problem or not. We all try to help each other here in the forum largely because we can not find help from the 'all so well knowing Chevy dealer shops'. Posting back your results will be appreciated by the users of this forum.

    Arrie

    P.S. If you really have a leak at intake manifold gasket as it seems like based on your posts I would not wait any longer to have it fixed.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    sounds great, thank you :D

    i believe mum is going to have that looked at i believe next week.
  • curious_gearscurious_gears Member Posts: 60
    uhhhhh...arrie

    do you know what i heard when i got out and closed the door earlier at wal-mart today???

    chirp chirp chirp
    yup yup is it possible for the manifold to squeak by closing the door???
    it sounded like it was right under the front window...

    what do you make of this...? :confuse:
  • tigermantigerman Member Posts: 13
    Anybody have their 4-wheel drive gear not disengage? Just had my U-joints done by reputable mechanics and they told me gear not disengaging. They ruled out the 4WD switch on dash, sensor at drive shaft (I think) and another sender somewhere? They suggested I talk to dealer. Any ideas?
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