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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • :( I understand there is a "BLACK BOX" device that in case of an accident could be used against the driver. DATA on speed, revs, force, skidding, etc. is stored and GM can retrieve this info from the box whether an owner agrees or not. Said another way, others involved in an accident could supboena info/DATA from GM. I believe the GPS may be part of the equipment which facilitates the gathering of this info/DATA. Anyone with further knowledge regarding this please let us on this board know. Is there a way to "OPT" out.????? :confuse: Thanks
  • alinamarsalinamars Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 with the Z71 package and 54,000 miles on it. We use it to tow an 18 foot boat maybe 10 times a year (in the summer, of course) with one trip over the Siskiyous in Oregon. Last month the front axle began to leak. Took it to a reputable shop who referred us to a transmission shop (not the dealer). They find that a washer has broken loose inside the right housing, the bearings are damaged on that side and the left axle seal is also leaking. Bottom line: $2000 in repairs. They claim it is because we drove it in Auto 4WD on hard pavement (only when towing the boat). Owners manual says this should be fine. Any input on what course of action we might have with GM or are we just S.O.L.? I am the primary driver of this vehicle and it has never been used in 4HI or 4LO. Husband & I have argued in the past about what mode to tow in; he says Auto4WD, I always tow with just 2HI. Any input?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    There's no one black box device that I know of (yet anyway). But information can be gleaned from various systems in newer cars - ABS systems, throttle by wire, etc.

    Maybe I can interest you in a 1970 DeVille convertible?

    Steve, Host
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I've had a Suburban, and 2 Denali's since 1996. The one consistent problem I've had is the front trans-axles developing problems (leaks mostly) every 20-30k.

    I've towed a boat all those summers, and it didn't make a difference (in the Subby) whether in 2HI or 4WD.

    The Denali's being AWD, developed the same problems, even with a different design front end.

    After having to pay for the Subby 3 times, I promised myself to always get an extended warranty on future GM SUV's, and its paid off many times over.

    I've spent $2500 a pop on the axle repairs (dealer), so your figure is pretty good...

    As for towing in Full Time 4WD, it is not necessary. You would only need the traction if pulling out of a boat launch with slippery conditions. Otherwise, it only wastes gas. If you are towing off-road or in snow, I feel for you.

  • 2001 Suburban. The headlights come on whenever the car is running. The day-time lights do not come on because of the headlights and running lights comming on. (The headlight switch is in the "Auto" position. Could it be a bad headlight switch?, Could it be a bad, or covered photo sensor? Possibly a relay? Thanks for any suggestions.
  • mrbproofmrbproof Posts: 2
    I have a 03 4x4 3/4 ton suburban with 4:10 posi diff. I would think this set up would be ideal to tow my 4000lb boat in any situation. Since day one, this truck runs hot when I tow or drive to Las Vegas, or Arizona in the summer. Any solutions or suggestions. I hav'nt spoken to a tech about this, I only remember the problem once or twice a year when I run my boat up to the lakes. Recently I installed some 33" tires, and a cat back exhaust with a K & N filter, now its running hot to the local lakes. I'm pretty upset about it and hope theres a remedy. Any info would be much appreciated.

  • My 1995 rattled something fierce until I replaced the cat. convertor. 150 dollar fix.
  • :confuse: Help, my 95 Suburban trys to stall like it doesn't want gas while normally driving . I have noticed that when I actuate the throttle by hand that the engine runs fine untill EGR valve starts to move, open or close, runs fine anywhere in between. I have unhooked the vacuum hose at the bottom of throttle body that runs through some black box and then to the EGR valve. Runs great except for the loud hissing noise. Also noticed that it is trying to do the same since the weather is hot. This all started in the dead of winter. Is the EGR valve messed up even though it is moving? How fast should it move? It seems to move fine.
  • markanagmarkanag Posts: 5
    I have an 01 Sub. The front tires are wearing on the inside. Do I need an alignment or are my shocks worn out?
  • kirkjkirkj Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Sub and have recently noticed that long trips (200-300 miles) and hot weather eventually create a situation where the tranny jumps from 1st top 2nd gear instead of shifting smoothly. It really slams into gear so hard that it feels like it could be doing major damage. Letting the car sit for 30 minutes eases the problem. Tranny flush didn't help. It doesn't do this under normal conditions. Anyone else seen this problem or have any idea of where problem may lie?

  • awill110awill110 Posts: 1
    I have been reading all over the net about the promblems that 90's suburbans have. I am the lucky owner of one of these great vehicles. I have been struggling with replacing pads and/or rotors every year or so. I do a lot of towing (a ski boat) and the burb seems to stop a little better with the extra weight. Why? I have no idea. Maybe it is my mind messing with me or I am just a much more cautious driver with the trailer.

    Anyway, I am looking for an effective way to fix this fun problem and I don't want to spend a ton. I am thinking about a rear disc brake conversion and getting better calipers for the front. Do any of you have experience with this and what did you do? Any other suggestions?

    Thank you very much for your input.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I had a 96 Suburban way back when (1500), and loved it. But, as you know, the brakes are undersized and like stepping on a cow-pie (someone elses quote).

    There are brake conversion kits, that allow you to put on larger diameter front discs. I don't believe you can just put on rear discs, because the master cylinder output is proportional to its disc/drum design. You'd have to change it too with some aftermarket thing.

    Towing my Mastercraft PS205, and subsequent X-Star, I'd go through brakes every 5k in the summers. Living in Tahoe is torture due to the mountain climbs. They front rotors would warp, and the rear drums get hot-spots that drove me crazy. The solution of course was to turn them, and when too thin, replace them. It was still cheaper than spending several grand on aftermarket brakes, considering I only keep these trucks a few years.

    In any event, your talking thousands.... Is it worth it?

    I've since bought an '07 GM, and the brakes are like night and day, compared to the '96 and '01 and '05 I had.
  • I think you need to have your rear end looked at. We had a '94 Ford Brono that was doing the same thing, except in all gears. We took it in to the Ford dealership and they said that it was a transmission problem, and that problem ended up destroying all the gears in the rear end, a VERY expensive fix. So i wouldnt suggest driving in at all hot weather, because there WILL BE MAJOR DAMAGE
  • jeffh7jeffh7 Posts: 3
    Did they use the right compressor? There are two different ones, one with rear air and one without.
  • jeffh7jeffh7 Posts: 3
    Had this problem with my Silverado, found the sensor had been hit by something and broke. I'd try there first.
  • I have a 99 Tahoe and the voltmeter is Canadian. It normally fluctuates between 15 and 13 whatever. Today, with the temp at 42 centigrade and A/C on max, the voltmeter has been hovering around the 9 level and doesn't move very much even on the highway. Car runs fine and starts. Battery doesn't sound weak. Any thoughts?
  • finsubufinsubu Posts: 1
    I have had a bit of problems with my -95 diesel sub. It started to jerk when under heavy pull or when accelerating. Otherwise no problems. We have changed new fuel pumps and pump control unit, even new turbo was installed. After a while the problem comes back. When I open the walve on the top of the gasfilter a bit of air comes off and then it works ok, for a while that is. There seems not to be any visible leaks in the gas system, any ideas how to solve this (costly) problem?
  • My 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 (109000mi) has a problem with the dashboard lights (they don't work). The guages work fine but there are no lights for the gauges, radio, AC, etc. The headlight switch will turn on and off the external parking/tail lights. I have checked all of the Fuses in the panel.

    What could be causing this problem? :confuse:
  • qanutqanut Posts: 7
    Own a '95 K2500 7.4L with 126K miles. Making a 1500 mile trip in mid Aug. Should I replace the fuel pump or take a chance? Bought it new and mostly used towing the camper and long trips. On average would fill the tank at half. My local mechanic quoted me about $600. Figure I might be able to tackle it for less than half. But what am I in for? :confuse:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Own a '95 K2500 7.4L with 126K miles. Making a 1500 mile trip in mid Aug. Should I replace the fuel pump or take a chance?
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I had a '92 Suburban with over 130K miles and never replaced the fuel pump. However if you should decide to replace the pump $600 is way to much. Try this sight:
    They have a pump for your vehicle selling for just over $100. Can't be that much of a job to replace it.
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