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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair



  • awill110awill110 Posts: 1
    I have been reading all over the net about the promblems that 90's suburbans have. I am the lucky owner of one of these great vehicles. I have been struggling with replacing pads and/or rotors every year or so. I do a lot of towing (a ski boat) and the burb seems to stop a little better with the extra weight. Why? I have no idea. Maybe it is my mind messing with me or I am just a much more cautious driver with the trailer.

    Anyway, I am looking for an effective way to fix this fun problem and I don't want to spend a ton. I am thinking about a rear disc brake conversion and getting better calipers for the front. Do any of you have experience with this and what did you do? Any other suggestions?

    Thank you very much for your input.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I had a 96 Suburban way back when (1500), and loved it. But, as you know, the brakes are undersized and like stepping on a cow-pie (someone elses quote).

    There are brake conversion kits, that allow you to put on larger diameter front discs. I don't believe you can just put on rear discs, because the master cylinder output is proportional to its disc/drum design. You'd have to change it too with some aftermarket thing.

    Towing my Mastercraft PS205, and subsequent X-Star, I'd go through brakes every 5k in the summers. Living in Tahoe is torture due to the mountain climbs. They front rotors would warp, and the rear drums get hot-spots that drove me crazy. The solution of course was to turn them, and when too thin, replace them. It was still cheaper than spending several grand on aftermarket brakes, considering I only keep these trucks a few years.

    In any event, your talking thousands.... Is it worth it?

    I've since bought an '07 GM, and the brakes are like night and day, compared to the '96 and '01 and '05 I had.
  • I think you need to have your rear end looked at. We had a '94 Ford Brono that was doing the same thing, except in all gears. We took it in to the Ford dealership and they said that it was a transmission problem, and that problem ended up destroying all the gears in the rear end, a VERY expensive fix. So i wouldnt suggest driving in at all hot weather, because there WILL BE MAJOR DAMAGE
  • jeffh7jeffh7 Posts: 3
    Did they use the right compressor? There are two different ones, one with rear air and one without.
  • jeffh7jeffh7 Posts: 3
    Had this problem with my Silverado, found the sensor had been hit by something and broke. I'd try there first.
  • I have a 99 Tahoe and the voltmeter is Canadian. It normally fluctuates between 15 and 13 whatever. Today, with the temp at 42 centigrade and A/C on max, the voltmeter has been hovering around the 9 level and doesn't move very much even on the highway. Car runs fine and starts. Battery doesn't sound weak. Any thoughts?
  • finsubufinsubu Posts: 1
    I have had a bit of problems with my -95 diesel sub. It started to jerk when under heavy pull or when accelerating. Otherwise no problems. We have changed new fuel pumps and pump control unit, even new turbo was installed. After a while the problem comes back. When I open the walve on the top of the gasfilter a bit of air comes off and then it works ok, for a while that is. There seems not to be any visible leaks in the gas system, any ideas how to solve this (costly) problem?
  • My 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 (109000mi) has a problem with the dashboard lights (they don't work). The guages work fine but there are no lights for the gauges, radio, AC, etc. The headlight switch will turn on and off the external parking/tail lights. I have checked all of the Fuses in the panel.

    What could be causing this problem? :confuse:
  • qanutqanut Posts: 7
    Own a '95 K2500 7.4L with 126K miles. Making a 1500 mile trip in mid Aug. Should I replace the fuel pump or take a chance? Bought it new and mostly used towing the camper and long trips. On average would fill the tank at half. My local mechanic quoted me about $600. Figure I might be able to tackle it for less than half. But what am I in for? :confuse:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Own a '95 K2500 7.4L with 126K miles. Making a 1500 mile trip in mid Aug. Should I replace the fuel pump or take a chance?
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I had a '92 Suburban with over 130K miles and never replaced the fuel pump. However if you should decide to replace the pump $600 is way to much. Try this sight:
    They have a pump for your vehicle selling for just over $100. Can't be that much of a job to replace it.
  • ivydriverivydriver Posts: 1
    We had the same problem with our 97 Burb. Although we took it to over 4 dealers and transmission places no one could figure it out. It became very expensive...our transmission went while on vacation 4 states away and then after fixing that they finally (after 7 months) realized the hard shifting was the shift solenoid. If there is a grinding it is the shift sensor on the transfer case - we ended up replacing all.
  • well...that noise you hear is coming from and aspirator, its actualy not a speaker. it is a small fan that pulls air across a tiny sensor and it works in conjunction with the HVAC is an easy fix. you can only get the aspirator at the dealership... repair should only take 10 or 15 minutes.
  • hi Gary, my name is Gary as well...i am a Technician @ a Chevy dealership. and the noise you're describing sounds like a slip yoke problem and there is a bulletin for is Document ID# 1580377....just give that to your dealership of choice and that should be a very good starting point for a correct repaire for your vehicle. i have fixed quite a few silverado's and suburbans with that bulliten.
  • Looking to buy a Suburban with a tailgate instead of barn doors or hatch back. Can anyone please tell me what year & model the tail gate was available on? Thanks...
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    If you have been changing the fuel filter regularly you should not have to replace the pump. BUT, if the pump does go out, it's a major project to replace. You have to drop the gas tank because the pump is inside it. How do I know? It happened to me on my 1999 K2500 120 miles from home. Had to have a dealer fix it. $750!!!! I'd change the filter as a minimum before your trip. Easy to do.
    Good luck.
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    1999 and earlier
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    Do you tow in Drive or 3? You need to be towing in 3 not Drive.
  • bbyc454bbyc454 Posts: 4
    You need an alignment.
  • I have a couple of 1999 Suburban's with a #6 cylinder misfire. Changed fuel injectors, plugs. Any ideas
  • Thank you!
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    This may seem pretty basic but......are you sure the battery is OK and the cables and connections are good? A clicking sound usually means a very weak battery or loose connection.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,727
    You definitely have a cooling system problem. I routinely tow my 4500lb boat with my 2000 1/2 ton Suburban with 3.73 in heat up to 110 and the temp gauge has never moved higher than it's normal running temp even when pulling up hills.
  • thanks for the response. Turns out it was the Thermostat sticking. Its been replaced since and no probs.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,727
    Glad to hear you got it taken care of. I've been away from the boards for a while and didn't notice the date of your post.

    Anyway, glad to hear it was only a thermostat. Seems it's only the expensive stuff that breaks on my burb i.e. transmission and recently an a/c compressor.
  • This recently purchased well-used Sub with 88K miles runs great except when it is hot outside and it is at high altitude the engine loses power and often cuts off. Usually happens at the top of a hill or when otherwise letting off the gas pedal. Could this be a vacuum-related fuel line problem? After stopping and cooling a bit it starts and runs again. Any ideas or similar experiences?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    This recently purchased well-used Sub with 88K miles runs great except when it is hot outside and it is at high altitude
    How high are you talking about?
  • lajalaja Posts: 3
    I am guessing you live in the northern part of the Country. I had the same leak on my 2002 Suburban. My dealer checked into it and found out there is a seal on the upper front axle. The seal has been leaking in colder cliamates. No problem in southern States. My car leaked out most of the differential fluid. They replaced the seal with a different material (about a year ago, I can't remember what new one they used). Since this appeared to be a manufacturing defect, my dealer ate the cost and charged me nothing. There is a GM bullitin on this problem.
  • lajalaja Posts: 3
    I have a vibration in the front right of my Suburban. It starts at about 35 MPH, but can be felt most over 57 MPH. Chevy dealer has balanced wheels, replaced tires, alligned vehicle, road balanced wheels and now suggests a different tire. I also had front shocks replaced. Nothing is stopping this shudder through the whole vehicle. Chevy is correcting effects, but has yet to find the cause. They have been very easy on the cost factor to me, (discounted pricing, minimal labor charges, etc.) so it's not that.
    A second Chevy dealer checked the whole front end and also could not find anything wrong. Idler arm, ball joints, tie rods, the whole nine yards all check as OK.
    Any ideas?
  • I had a mechanic which recently replaced my Drac module to fix my transmission shifting problems. I was told by the Chevy dealer that this module had nothing to do with the shifting. I was wondering if anyone had information regarding this.This mechanic also said he got the part from a salvage yard but I was also told this would not work. I was wondering if I got ripped off.
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