Toyota Tundra Engine Issues

ppisanoppisano Member Posts: 16
in Toyota
I have the 03 v8 with 58k,, I started to get the po156 code for check engine. I replaced the correct sensor but just received the same stating "circuit malfunction". ive read here that there could be a heat issue to close to other pipes or something like that. Any ideas would be grand at this point.
cat system going bad??
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  • woodgreenfarmswoodgreenfarms Member Posts: 1
    I saw your post and this might be related.
    I have a 2000 Tundra. Last week the check engine light came on. My mechanic got a po135 code. He said it was for an oxygen sensor problem. He's a toyota mechanic but not a dealer. He heard there was an issue with Tundra oxygen sensors and suggested I contact toyota to see if it was a recall. If it was covered it could save me $250 plus labor. He's an honest guy. I tried the toyota web site, 800 number and the local dealer and none had any notices or recalls. I spoke with him today and he said try again, he thought there was a notice or something but he doesn't have any more information. He said some bad parts don't get recalled, they call it a campaign? They won't contact all the owners and offer the repair but if you ask they'll pay for it. At the least we can get counted as another owner with the problem that may eventually lead to a recall or campaign.

    I'm going to try again to see if I can find any assistance. I'll keep you posted. Please let me know if you learn anything. If anyone else has information to add it would be appreciated.
  • ppisanoppisano Member Posts: 16
    great thanks, the sensor was replaced after the first code then another came back about two weeks later. I have a few things to consider still, like the mass air flow sensor cleaning, is it the cat actually failing, there's nothing left to replace after that point.
    I'll keep you in the loop.
  • ppisanoppisano Member Posts: 16
    ok, the update.
    I replaced the spark plugs, I cleaned the KN mass air flow sensor. 300miles later I got the po161 code again. I'm really perplexed right now, I just may replace the cat system as thats all that left for thet system (i think), remember I already replced the 02 sensor and the code came back. I'm assuming it's noty the new sensor.
    Maybe replace the cat system.
    Any ideas left??
  • hawkeye7hawkeye7 Member Posts: 2
    I am wondering will things function without these o2 sensors. Is there a way around it somehow?
  • ppisanoppisano Member Posts: 16
    Morning all, I have a 03 tundra and when my shifter is placed in "drive" the little green light won't come on, but when i shift anywhere else all the rest of lghts work fine (reverse, park ect...)
    Anyone have this one happen before???? any guesses???
  • gts4gts4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 toyota tundra I just bought and notice that when I start it up when cold I get a lot of blue smoke for a few minutes than goes away I had it check out at the dealer and they said everything was fine, I really don't like it, I did not notice this when I bought it two months ago, could it be the oil? its running standard 5-30 oil,they say no, some say use synthetic oil does this help? I only have 36000 miles on it, it does have a superchager and headers with daul exhaust from the factory. any info would help.
  • ltdan2ltdan2 Member Posts: 17
    it sounds like worn rings or valvue guides.have a compression test run to see if all the cyl. are equal & up to factory spec.
  • alpsalps Member Posts: 2
    I was a diesel engine mechanic in the navy a long time ago,
    the other party that replied to you, is probably correct. I
    would probably suspect the valve seals and or the rings as
    the rulpret. And I want to ask, a supercharger or a turbo-
    charger. There is a distinct difference. Is it belt driven,
    or powered off of the exhaust. If this is the case, either
    way you are probably running to much boost; which would
    cause the seals on the valve or too much boost would be
    putting too much pressure to the indiviual block bores. That
    maybe why you are experiencing the deadly blue smoke. Be
    concerned!
  • gts4gts4 Member Posts: 2
  • buzzwabuzzwa Member Posts: 3
    Did anyone ever post a link to a PDF on changing the oil filter? What a hassle. Other than this, I love my truck!
  • buzzwabuzzwa Member Posts: 3
  • exf150ownerexf150owner Member Posts: 5
    I need that too. I put the o-ring in the wrong place at first ( at the bottom and not in the groove ) and now have a very , very minor leak from the bottom of the filter housing. I think i streched/niked the o-ring . The leak is hardly noticeable but drives me crazy. Of course the girlfriend says i should have taken it to the dealer for an oil change
  • beach_bradabeach_brada Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2007 Tundra with the 5.7L engine. I was just wondering for all the people with the same engine size, how high your truck RPM's jump to in the morning startup, and about how long it takes before the RPM's drop below 1000. My truck's RPM's jump to about 2000 RPM's and don't drop below 1000 until about 45 seconds to a minute after startup. I know all about cold startups and how its normal for the RPM's to be higher in the morning due to colder temperatures, but I dont ever remember my truck's RPM's jumping that high and taking so long to lower to a normal RPM. So Im just curious as to how your trucks are in the morning?
  • beach_bradabeach_brada Member Posts: 10
  • apptunapptun Member Posts: 18
    I was told that on some Toyota vehicles that you have to replace the mass air flow sensor to realize the full benefit of a cold air intake system. Is this true? I am also curious as to the noise level of the Borla cat back system. I have decided to spend some money on my current Tundra to prevent the purchase of a new one. Thanks.
  • etothexdxetothexdx Member Posts: 5
    I have a 4.0 v6 2006 SR5 Tundra. Each time I start the truck it takes the oil pressure guage almost 6 seconds before it will register. In other words, after I start the engine, the guage reads zero pressure for about 6 seconds then it will shoot up to about midway. Has anyone else had this experience?
  • lambo59lambo59 Member Posts: 3
    how do you change the air fliter on the toyota tundra?
  • grapepickergrapepicker Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2008 tundra and i have the same thing. Mine will rev to about 1800 rpm when i first start it the morning and hold that for about a minute, and then it will gradually start to come back.I only have 600 miles on it and will take it in and see if this is normal for this engine. I also have an issue with the oil pressure which i'll take up with the service rep when i take it in.I'm like you in believeing that this is a little high of a rev when you first start it. I'll let you know what they say about it when i take it in.
  • grapepickergrapepicker Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone out there know what LSD stands for? It is with the traction control section of the 2008 owners manual .
  • grapepickergrapepicker Member Posts: 7
    According to the service rep i talked to about my 08 revving on a cold start, he said that was normal for that engine. So i guess i'll just hang on when i start it cold.
  • rockafellerrockafeller Member Posts: 2
    My 07 5.7 tundra 4x4 crewmax developed a lowend knock @ apprx 4k miles.After 2 visits to the dealer the factory rep approved a complete engine replacement at 5300 miles.I have only put 300 miles on new engine so the jury is still out on wether the new engine will be ok.This 5.7 doesn't seem to have that sewing machine smoothness of my previous 4.7 Tundra.My local dealer has already replaced two other 5.7 engines.So far my ownership experience with this truck has been a major disappointment.Anyone else out there with the same problem?
  • alpsalps Member Posts: 2
    Limited Slip Differential
  • trucksaledavetrucksaledave Member Posts: 2
    Had 11 Toyota's for over 33 years and finally got my first bad one.....Engine, trans ecm does not play well together.....Engines knocks rattles sounds like the 6.0 diesel ford......trans shifts like crap..hard shifts, knocks......dealership took it in for 4 days and road tested it 4 miles and called and said it was nothing wrong with it but that I had put a aftermarket oil filter in it and that caused the engine to knock....but....it still had the orginal oil fill and filter from the factory.....Still got all my same problems.....Wife will not drive it, says she wants to get where she is going.....and back.......Wish Butler/Macon would trade me out of this problem....WOW A $33,000 white lemon......dave
  • dfulcedfulce Member Posts: 2
    I have 26,000 miles on my 2007 5.7 tundra. Dealer says the engine noise is normal - sounds like a diesel in the mornings and afternoon when you have low throttle settings (1200-2000 rpm). What do I tell the dealer to get them to do something? Loudest engine I have ever owned.
  • thomasdubyathomasdubya Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 toyota tundra extended cab,3.4 l engine.I called the local toyota dealership to get a price on replacing the 3 front belts.
    The service advisor advised me that the timing belt and water pump needed to be replaced at the same time with a cost of $800.00.
    The tundra has $122,000 miles and the above service has not been done.
    Is this the correct advice or is he trying to gouge me?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What does your owner's manual say about replacing the timing belt?
  • canadiantoyotacanadiantoyota Member Posts: 148
    Regarding replacing the timing belt and water pump. I have a 2002 Tacoma with 360,000 kms. (225,000 miles) and I have had the belt and pump replaced twice. The first time, I was shocked at the price, but the dealer has assured me that if the water pump fails, it takes the belt with it. Therefore, it is just false economy to replace one and not the other. I have since checked and they are telling the truth. Toyota always errors on the side of being safe and practical. You would be doubly ticked off if your water pump failed and took out the belt just after you paid for the belt to be replaced.

    By the way, this truck runs like a top, burns NO oil and is one of the best vehicles I have ever owned.
  • cskycsky Member Posts: 4
    Howdy -Jus looking for a little help on where to find a decent after market dual exhuast setup for my 05 tundra prefer a cat back setup .
    And I wanting to replace my bridgestone tires [I dont like these tires at all ,at 40 psi its like having skates on the front]

    I prefer an semi agressive ,heavy sidewall ,semi smooth ,semi quit ride,handles well with 40 to 50 psi , High milage [50,000 +]
    good on snow rain dry and off road,and will handle my travell trailer.
    This is a great truck and I couldnt be happier .
    Also has anyone out there converted there 4x4 front axle to lockers ?if so ,was pretty simple and affordable ?
  • apptunapptun Member Posts: 18
    I suggest a visit to your local independent muffler shop. I found that for under $300 you can get a nice sounding, cat back system . Just keep your original in case you change your mind. You can expect about five years of service life from this price range of system.The muffler will have a lifetime warranty and the pipes are aluminized. Someone should feel free to correct me if I have that terminology wrong. It is not all stainless but it is very reasonably priced, I put a set of Cooper tires on my tundra when the Bridgestones bit the dust at less than 30k.The originals were a big let down for me. Good luck.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Go to tirerack and check out the Firestone Destination A/T.

    Best bang for the buck fulfills all your requirements.
  • cskycsky Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply . another ? for ya ,will this [ dual exhaust ]
    increase hp and mpg ? This is pretty much my soul purpose for dual exhaust .
    Thanks again .
  • apptunapptun Member Posts: 18
    The gains will be extremely small. The system will sound really cool! Just be careful to refrain from driving harder to enjoy the sound improvement or your mileage may actually decrease. I am hoping that the addition of a cold air intake will allow the exhaust to produce some additional improvements.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The only thing a cold intake will increase is the noise in your cab and the silicone in your oil. But hey all the truck owners who swear a marked increase in seat of the pants power with a catback and air intake can't all be wrong can they?

    Toyota sells a supercharger. I'd have the dealer install that and be done with it. That way you'll have the fastest and quietest Tundra on the street. :shades:
  • market525market525 Member Posts: 27
    If you look in your owner's manual, you'll see the interval is every 90,000 miles, so you are long overdue for this service. Also note that the 3.4 engine is an "interference" engine -- meaning if the timing belt breaks, you will have pistons hitting valves. If that happens, you'll be looking at either finding a junk yard replacement engine, or stepping up the the plate for thousands of dollars in engine repair.

    Change the timing belt & water pump, or sell the truck! You could find an independent garage that would do the job cheaper, but I'd be very cautious there, especailly what brand of parts they install I've alway used genuine Toyota parts on maintenance of this nature. Good luck, Steve
  • toddhmtoddhm Member Posts: 35
    Hello all, I am considering the purchase of a 2008 Tundra 5.7 that was manufactured in late 2007. Have the issues with the 5.7 (knock, etc.) been isolated to a certain period of production, and if so, after what month of production have the issues been addressed and corrected on the assembly line? Is there a way to check the VIN on the particular truck I am purchasing to ensure that it is unaffected? Please help.....
  • thomasdubyathomasdubya Member Posts: 2
    I actually did some research on my own after posting the thread.What you said is correct.I contacted an independant garage to do the work and saved approx $300.00.All the garages that I contacted recommended the water pump replacement along with the timing belt replacement.the pump was genuine Toyota bur the belts were Gates.The water pump actually had a leak and was calcifying.The timing belt almost looked new and the 3 drive belts had little wear.Nor bad for 120.00 miles.will certainly repeat the procedure in another 100,000 miles
  • jimmyg8jimmyg8 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a knock in the motor of my 07 tundra its piston knock when its cold it sounds like a diesel but when it warms up its not as bad but i can't get any satifaction from the dealer or the service rep so i guess the lemon law is next
  • rbudinichrbudinich Member Posts: 1
    My 07 Tundra makes a Grinding noise sometimes when I make a slow right turn. When I back out of my driveway and put it in drive it does it every time. It's definitely not coming from the engine. It sounds like its coming from around the right front tire. It never does it while driving on the highway. It seems to be noticeable at right turns most of the time. It's like a rough/settling/grinding sound.
    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks, R Budinich
  • dfulcedfulce Member Posts: 2
    How was the diagnose made as piston slap? My dealer swears there is no problem!! They don't even hear the noise! I am currently trying different oils to see if it helps. I have 30,000 miles on my truck - the noise is not any better or any worse. I make sure anytime I have service done that the complaint is noted on each work order.
  • ppisanoppisano Member Posts: 16
    Hi all, have th 03 tundra v8 and about to try and replace the bank1/sensor1 after a po0031 code.
    How the heck do i get to it? wheel well? underneath? I'm lost.
    Thanks much appreciated. :confuse:
  • kpg712kpg712 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an '02 tundra with the 4.7 engine. My question regards oil pressure. I have noticed that when the truck is at idle in drive the oil pressure drops to the first hash mark on the gauge. When I accelerate from a stop the pressure increases to about midway on the gauge. Is this normal for the pressure to drop that far when at idle? The truck has 52,000 miles on it & is in great shape. I don't know what weight of oil is in the engine, but it looks clean so I'm assuming that it's was changed recently at the dealership. What oil do you guys run in your Tundras? Should I switch to synthetic? This is my 1st Toyota, I traded in a Dodge Dakota for it, so I don't know squat yet about the Tundra. Thanx for your help.
  • wiesjonwiesjon Member Posts: 1
    Don't know about the exhaust per se, but do like the tires I put on mine. They are the Bridgestone Dueler AT/Revo. Got them at Tire Rack on the internet for a lot less than the local dealers. And then had them installed at one of their recommeneded installers. They will even ship directly to the installer. And if you ever need winter tires the Bridgestone Blizzak are like driving with chains (not quite of course, but really make a big difference). But I change from season to season as the Blizzaks are a true snow tire and don't get the tread wear of a summer tire.
  • mikonmikon Member Posts: 7
    The O2 sensors are a chronic problem on 2000 to 2005 Tundras (don't know about 2006 & up). HOWEVER, I had two sensors replaced by the Toyota dealer on my 2000 Tundra IN WARRANTY. There is a 5-year warranty on those parts. Since you have a 2003, check to make sure you are out of warranty before doing the job yourself.

    Further, a third one went out on me about 3 months ago. I found that I'm getting BETTER gas mileage with it out than when it was working....just FYI. A catch 22, if you must pass the engine inspection service light test for a smog test (like in most counties in CA), they will NOT smog test it until it is fixed.
  • garyandersgaryanders Member Posts: 39
    I don't think you have a thing to worry about. I have an 04 Trunda and mine sits at around the 1st mark at idle and stays in the middle when driving, especially when the engine is warm or hot. Look at your owners manual and I think you will find this to be an acceptable level on your gauge. I run Mobil One 5-30w extended peformance synthetic oil. Enjoy your new Tundra, I have enjoyed mine. Gary
  • msalsburymsalsbury Member Posts: 8
    Did you dealer do anything ? My dealer wont . I would like to talk to your dealer can yoy email me your dealers telephone number to atv@salsburystudio.com
  • JPN1JPN1 Member Posts: 3
    The 5.7 Tundra V8, introduced about two years ago has had many problems including failed camshafts, extreme engine noise and high ilde speed on cold start-up to name a few. Most 5.7s used in Tundras and Sequoias are manufactured at the Toyota engine plant in Huntville, Alabama. The "sweet" 5.7, sans problems, is manufactured in Japan and is installed in each new Toyota Land Cruiser and Lexus LX570. To validate this observation, read the federally mandated disclosure statement in the window of each new Toyota/Lexus product with the 5.7 V8. This disclosure statement shows the country of origin of the major vehicle components
    (i.e. engine, transmission, etc.) Not all 5.7s are created equal!
  • chiefjohnnychiefjohnny Member Posts: 1
    I have a Great 2000 Tundra with the 4.7 and 120K miles. While coming to a stop while parking, the truck began shaking and stalled. It restarts, idles and revs fine, but put into gear and stalls immiediatly. I had a buddy who is the lead mechanic at the local Lexus dealership take a look at it and he says he's never seen this with the Lexus version of the 4.7. He tells me that the throttle body is the only thing that goes wrong with this engine. No check engine lights are on and even though I had just fueled the truck after letting the fuel light go on 4.6 miles to this happening, he does not feel it's a fuel pump or filter issue. Any thoughts before I throw myself at the mercy of the dealer????
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    sounds like a bad idle air controller.
  • 1972ck1972ck Member Posts: 56
    Your "D" light behind the instrument cluster in the dash is blown.
  • brianjamiebrianjamie Member Posts: 1
    I have had this same problem, First try to adding octane booster to a full tank of gas. If this doesn't work you need to clean your throttle body. hopefully this will solve the problem.
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