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Chevrolet Cobalt Real World MPG

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Comments

  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    My Cobalt LS (4-door sedan) auto gets about 27 mpg average (mostly city driving)
    and gets about 31-34 mpg on hwy. I usually keep my tires at 32 psi as my door panel says 30 psi, is that bad for my tires. How can I get more mpg out of my car? Did change the spark plugs 3 weeks ago, and actually gave my car 1 mpg more when I start the engine.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    That's pretty much what you should be getting. I avg 25MPG and never get 30MPG highway.
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    It looks like you're doing pretty good m/p/g. right now.
    By the way I see it, you should the one giving some advice instead of asking for some. I could add that a clean and well waxed car helps the m/p/g to.
    For your tire pressure, 32 p.s. i. isn't that bad but the ride must be a bit bumpy?
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    Yeah, the ride is a little bit bumpy, Should I just go by the door panel psi on tires for safe bet? I know I should be giving some advice. My only advice to give is to keep checking your tires and psi, and also change the oil, pcv valve and all filters every 3,000 miles. Pre-trips inspections is great for your car which can help you in the long run and also saves you costly repairs. Also, drive solo, really does give you more mpg and is easy on your car.
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    My tires p.s.i. is always at the vehicle recommendation.
    Like you already know you should check your tire pressure when tires are cold or when you didn't move your car for a couple of hour.
    If you do lots of highway driving your p.s.i. will increase by itself by a couple of ponds, faster in summer or hot pavement.
    If you want my advice let them at 30 p.s.i. an over inflated tire is as bad as a under inflated one. Eventually you will see that your tires will get worned-out prematurally.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    why on earth would you change the pcv valve every 3000 miles?
    The only filter that needs to be changed is the oil filter. The air filter and cabin air filter get changed at longer intervals.
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    I heard that the pcv valve will make a difference by changing it while changing the oil. Heard it from a mechanic once, with some of my old cars I used to have. Doesn't make sense. I know, don't follow through anyways and always when my car needs an oil change, I'll take my car to a chevy dealer to get service.

    Anyways, having you car in line (aliments) will make a big difference on your gas mileage and tires also.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    32 psi is considered overinflating? Not by me!
    What are the PSI recommendations listed on the doorframe?
    I prefer 34 psi for my vehicles, and 34 is within the range specified on the doorframe for max-speed or max-load operation.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    Oil Change places always go for the replace PCV valve line, but you notice your dealer will never recommend it. It isn't necessary.
    As for the tires, the door jam says 30, my dealer and Discount Tire always puts them on 35 but I prefer to keep them on 32.
  • laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    The tire's p.s.i. is calculated differently from a model of car to another. My 2007 Cobalt door frame says 30 p.s.i.
    I also own a 2005 Equinox this one is 35 p.s.i. and for my show car... a 1977 Chevelle Malibu Classic the door frame p.s.i. requirements are at 24 p.s.i.
    If I take your example of 32 p.s.i. well for my Equinox it would by "under inflated" but for my Chevelle it would be well "overinfalted".
    Don't go by what's written on the tire (like most people do) that's the max-speed and max-load operation of the tire. Always go by the car's door frame recommendations.
    By the way...you didn't mention what type of car you drive.
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    My doorframe says 30 psi but the tires says never to exceed 40 psi. Strange world. Guess we will never know. Funny how the world works, but my advice I can give is just go what best suits you.

    My uncle is a mechanic, for his cars he always put 32 psi in all his tires and even with my cars. He never had problems with 32. Today, I set all my tires at 30 psi, according to the doorframe and see how well that goes for gas mileage and tires for a week or two. Also, some tire shops, have hydrogen tires which they said will also increase gas improvements and last longer than original tires.

    Also, I drive a 2006 Chevy Colbalt LS (4-doors sedan) now with 51,303 miles. I will take my car in for an oil change on tuesday and going on a long trip on wednesday VB,VA to Pittsburgh, PA (450 miles or 8 hrs) and will calculate m/g/mph to accurate mpg. I'll post results.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    I think you mean nitrogen, not hydrogen.

    The same tires are used on different vehicles, and the max pressure indicated on the tire itself is not indicative of where the pressure should be run on a particular vehicle; it just means that that pressure should not be exceeded.

    The optimum air pressure is very much related to the vehicle weight. For lighter vehicles, less air pressure is needed, and for heavier vehicles, higher air pressure is needed.

    What you are looking for is a good "footprint." You want the tread all the way across the tire to be in contact with the road. Over-inflation makes only the tread in the middle of the tire make contact with the road and will cause the tread to wear more in the middle. Low air pressure will make the inside and outside tread make more contact with the road, and the edges will wear out faster.

    Some people actually rub chalk across the tread, drive a few feet, and then check the footprint the chalk made. Not too many people go to that much trouble. Just stick with the manufacturer's recommendation, and you should be OK.

    Tom
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    That is a good way to look at things, meaning that the companies who make these cars suggest putting a sticker of tire pressure psi on the doorframe, why not use it?

    If we didn't, why would the company waste time and money on something that we won't bother with. Most people who cares about their vehicles would love to get most out of their money. Everyone should do the same, especially when the economy is bad and will only get worst.

    Of course, some people don't care that much about their vehicle and would rather buy tires if they absolutely have to. (to pass state inspections) Why would spend extra money for lazyness. Never really give enough thought about it, until now. Thanks Tom.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    I've done the tire-chalk test in years past, with a Z28...
    I like it when street cars wear the tires perfectly flat like my 5 3rd, 4th gen f-body/Z28 cars always did.

    currently I drive an 06 VW jetta, and an 05 Pontiac GTO, both manual shift.
    The VW wears the tires nice & flat. GTO not so.
    Anyway, I really like the blue cobalts and would consider one at some point (with manual shifter of course).

    i'd bet that cobalts wear the tires nice & evenly, if you select the right PSI and
    only participate in drifting exhibitions every *other* weekend.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Member Posts: 299
    I was suprised on my last trip from Clovis to Albuquerque. I stayed at about 68 mph until I reached the Interstate at Clines Corners and got 40 on an average for about 100 miles. Total average for the trip was around 38 .Altitudes are relatively high - 4300' at Clovis and I think that Albuquerque is around 5,000.. The drive is hilly only when you are going through the Sandias just east of Albuquerque. I have the small 4 and automatic on an LT1 coupe. The car has around 3500 miles on it. I am very critical when it comes to cars. I disliked the jerky transmission on my 06 Impala and finally sold it. I bought the Cobalt last September and have no complaints at all except for very little CD storage in the console. The ride isn't much different than the Impala. The electric steering is tricky at high speeds -you need to keep your mind on the road. A slight deviation and you are in the other lane. Pickup is fine as long as you realize you don't have a Maserati when you pass someone. All in all it is a great car. I am really suprised that Chevy is dumping it. I won't get a Cruse until they build a coupe.and probably by the time I sell the Cobalt the Cruse will be a thing of the past.
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    Got back 3 days ago. Anyways, I drove from Virginia Beach, VA to Sarver, PA and it took me 9 hours or 454 miles. Had to stop once for fuel, at Sheetz in Breezewood, PA for $1.93 /gal on Route 522 W. Anyways, When I got to Sarver, PA my car calculated 35.8 mpg mostly highway driving at 60 mph.

    When I drove back to Virginia Beach, VA at 65 mph, it took 8 hours and 13 mins. (443 miles) My car calculated 35.3 mpg, and never had to stop for fuel. Drive straight thru. At tire(s) pressure set at 30psi according to the doorframe. I can't complain. Intending on moving back up there before June 2009, it was great.
  • gigimjgigimj Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to comment ... I drive 75-80 miles round trip to work daily in city/hwy traffic in Dallas/FtWorth .. I average 32-33 mpg. I have a Cobalt sedan 2007. My daughter has a Cobalt coupe 2007. I just took a trip to Houston last weekend driving 60 mph with no AC on with some rain and averaged 41.3 mpg with an average speed of 57 calculated by the onboard computer in the car. When I first got the car I went to Atlanta GA and averaged over 37 mpg I remember. The car has 45,000 plus miles on it now and 2 yrs old .. yes I drive a lot! I just had the car inspected, oil and oil filter changed, all new tires, new fuel filter, new air filter, and new wiper inserts. I'm driving to Houston again this weekend ... hoping for even better milage this time ... maybe better then 42 mpg!!! Anyway just wanted to say how impressed I am with this Cobalt ... bought it new 2 yrs ago a week after my daughter bought her coupe. I'm 62 nearly and have owned a lot of cars in my time. Once I would not go near a Chevolet ... that has changed! I have had in my lifetime a 1966 Olds Cutlass 442, 1967 Corvett, 1968 Corvett, 1972 Toyota Celica, 1973 Toyota Corona, 1974 Toyota Corona, 1976 Fiat, 1977 Buick Regal Tubo, 1978 Audi 2000S, 1980 Mazda RX7, 1982 Honda Accord, 1985 Ford F250 HD SuperCab Diesel, 1988 Mitsubishi Pickup, 1994 Jeep Cherokee, 1998 Ford EddieBauer Explorer which I still have with just over 149,000 miles and my 2007 Chevy Cobalt. All these vehicles were bought new from first to last. My 1966 442 got 17 mpg, my 1972 Celica got better then 32 mpg, and my Chevy Cobalt better then 41 mpg .... yeaaaaa!

    How are the rest of you doing with the Cobalt??????

    Thanks
    Gigi
  • dft56dft56 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2007 LS 4dr sedan and live in NY, around town i get 29mpg and on long trips between 38-42mpg. Am quite happy with my Cobalt despite a few trips to the dealer for front end work(all under warranty). Seems the bushings are not as good as they used to be.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    Hi, My front end feels funky, I was wondering what your front end symptoms were when you got the bushings replaced. Thanks.
  • pvs68pvs68 Member Posts: 2
  • pvs68pvs68 Member Posts: 2
    I just rented a Pontiac GS (Identical to Cobalt) and according to the in car computer was getting 38 MPG on the highway with spirited driving from NC to ME and back, more than 2500 miles. This was with an automatic transmission too! I was impressed since it zipped along too.
  • happycamper6happycamper6 Member Posts: 2
    Picked up my 09 Cobalt LS/XFE with the five speed a little over a week ago, and have no problem getting 43 to 44 on the freeway. Doing 70 in fifth, with the A/C on.
    This little car amazes me.
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    Now, I've being alittle mixture of driving on the Interstate and city. My Cobalt LS is averaging out 31.4 mpg. It was 32.4 but right now my cobalt is about 3,000 miles overdue and will definitely get an Oil Change tomorrow morning (08/21/2009) so, hopefully the mpg will raise back up. Also, my tires are set at 32psi. By the way, my car is automatic, wished I had a 5 speed. Although, I do know how to drive a 10 speed BigRig.
  • innyrightnowinnyrightnow Member Posts: 1
    I rented a Cobalt in 2007 and played around with various speeds/rpms to see what produced the best MPG (according to the car computer), and found that if I activated the cruise control, while accelerating, right after it switched to the highest gear (4th?), the speed would be maintained at about 38 or 39 mph, and the MPG would register at 58 or 59 mpg. This was when the tires were a little over-inflated (a hot day), and on a very smooth pavement. I watched the mpg drop by 4 or 5 mpg when the road surface changed to very rough (the kind of road that is very loud to drive on). My question is, is the car computer readout of mpg accurate? (if I actually drove a few hundred miles with this setting, and measured the gas comsumption, would the reported mpg have calculated out to be true?) The reason I ask is that I am considering buying a Cobalt, and want to know if the computer mpg is accurate.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Car dashboard mpg computers/displays are not very accurate in my experience - often reporting much more mpg than the car is actually getting.
    So no, had you measured distance/gallons, you would have come up with a substantially lower number. Maybe 39 mpg at most, I'd guess.
    But any given mpg-meter tends to be accurate for measuring *relative* mpg differences within that one vehicle.
    So when you saw indicated mpg drop from 58 mpg to 54 mpg, you can be pretty sure that the instantaneous fuel consumption had indeed dropped by ((4/58)*100) %.
    Once you establish the "overestimate" that the dashboard-mpg-meter provides, you can subtract a fixed percentage from whatever it tells you.
    For example, my VW TDI mpg dashboard-computer reads consistently about 10% above the actual mpg, typically reporting 50 mpg over an entire tank that actually yielded 45 mpg.
  • powderkeggpowderkegg Member Posts: 22
    In my 2008 the car keeps very good track of the gas mileage. Keep in mind that the MPG displayed in the DIC is only representative for the last hour of driving. So you may have done 200 miles of highway at 35 mpg and 100 city, heavy stop and go and the car may display 28 or less. But when you fill the tank you will most likely see that you actually got 31 or 32 mpg for the whole tank. For a 300 mile trip from Central PA to Western NY I generally get 34 to 35 mpg. That's a lot of mountains as I venture north at 65 or 70 mph. I keep my tires at 30 psi cold as the car recommends. I have 19000 miles on my car and keep track of every drop of gasoline that the car consumes. My average since I bought the car is 33 mpg.
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    When I first brought (or still leasing yet.) it was calculating 27 mpg at the first 105 miles on the car. When I used to live in PA, my cobalt was getting about 31. Temporary living in VA, as my car was getting 34 mpg. Then, recently about a month ago, my car was still getting 34 consistent. Until, last Wednesday, My cobalt LS dropped to 29.3. Can't fiqure out why.

    Guess, no mpg is accurate on cobalts sensor systems. My manager from work, told me and old fashion trick to know for sure exactly what your car mpg aveage. He told me, just to first, fill up your tank, reset your trip A and Trip B miles. Then, keep track of all your miles, and when it's time to fill up. Check your miles and divide that from how many gallons your car holds. He said, that will be your most accurate. Of course, it all depends on how fast you drive, tires psi set at, and other misc... I haven't tried it yet but, this coming week on Tuesday thru Sunday, I will. Next week, I'm driving back up to PA on a 443.5 miles trip (about 8 hrs.)

    Is there any other tricks to use?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    > My cobalt LS dropped to 29.3. Can't fiqure out why.

    The changeover to winter fuels may have dropped the BTUs in the fuel. Lower mileage than the summer blends.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    it's not really a "trick" to determine mpg by dividing miles by gallons, but since you asked, how's this:
    you could use a super-precision scale to weigh the car, drive a certain distance, then
    measure its exact weight again.
    no stopping for burgers or a caf-pow or shopping or hitchikers or rest-areas.
    the change in weight divided by 9 lbs would be the # of gallons used. then divide
    that into the distance in miles and you have mpg.
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    When I arrived here in Pittsburgh from Virginia Beach, My Cobalt LS mpg reach back to normal 35.4. Two days ago, it fell to 32.5. Did notice the difference BTU's. Guess, they figure no one will want to drive in the winter, besides to get what is necessary. So, no one will care about the mpg. Crazy world we live in.

    I'll keep updating now and then, so be patience. Sure feels great to be back home officially. See ya later...
  • cobaltken1cobaltken1 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2009 Cobalt SS Turbo and with checking the mpg,I do it Manuel and by the computer,on the highway im getting between 30 and 34 mpg as long as I keep my foot out of it,if you know what Im talking about. This is my second Cobalt,the last one was a 2007 Cobalt SS Supercharged and the mpg was the same on it. I love my Cobalt.
  • houstonricehoustonrice Member Posts: 11
    Hi All.

    I bought a used Cobalt 07 with 23000 miles last Friday. I got the oil changed on Monday, and the air filter replaced as well.
    It is giving me 24 mpg in the city of Houston, which involves many miles of slow traffic and also a few miles of freeway.,

    I don;t understand what I would have to do to get the mileage to a similiar value as you guys are getting, close to 30.

    ??
    Any ideas?
  • houstonricehoustonrice Member Posts: 11
    It is a 2.2 liter standard transmission coupe .

    24 mpg is the computer readout.

    I hope you have some good suggestions.
  • steve333steve333 Member Posts: 201
    My '06 averages 24 MPG mixed city and freeway. I have no idea why those guys get such great MPG.
  • atomicsharkatomicshark Member Posts: 3
    It really depends. I have a 2008 Cobalt LT sedan with an automatic and I average in the high 20's. My commute is 50 miles each way with a mix of moderate to heavy traffic. I live in the suburbs of New York City and I work in the city (Queens). Because of the crazy unpredictable traffic I've gotten anywhere from 25 to 34 MPG.

    If you only drive short trips that have a lot of stop and go traffic, then 24 MPG is probably pretty good. The only way to really improve is to be light on the gas and better predict the traffic ahead of you so you don't have to use the brakes too much. Accelerating from 0 or very low speeds is what really kills the fuel economy. Try to keep a constant speed. I find that I get the best MPG between 50 to 60 MPH. 65 is not too bad, but not optimal.

    My auto equipped 08 is rated 22 City and 32 Hwy so I'm getting exactly what's advertised.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    >what I would have to do to get the mileage

    In jest here, move farther away so you have more freeway type traffic. On that free way gently drive 55-60. Faster speeds mean more air resistance and turbulance around the shape of the car. Also when traffic slows keep your speed up above what must be 40 or a little over so the transmission is in 4th gear (the tach drops another notch); it seems in 3rd at slower speeds the economy just isn't there.

    This is based on my experience driving around the area in the Cobalt 2.2 with automatic we bought for our son. At 55 or below on a level road the average hits 40. Add an occasional stop or turn and the average is 35-36. Once the car is warmed up just reset the mileage gauge and see what you're getting in various parts of your drive. The stop and go is probably 20 unless you're gently accelerating and trying not to have to stop.

    Another factor might be the gasoline if it has a higher percentage of alcohol.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • rsattlerrsattler Member Posts: 3
    My research tells me that the cobalt probably will not survive much longer as GM is bringing the Cruze to the states. It is built on one of GM's Opel platforms and promises to be a much better car than the Cobalt. The Cobalt (besides SS Turbo) is a terrible attempt at a small car. The interior quality is horrible, it practically rolls over on itself in bends, and the electric assisted power steering has no feedback or feel. The 2.2 is noisy, down on power, and utilizes the oldest technology. The 2.4 is a much better engine. The 2.0L turbo in the SS has direct injection, twin cam, and variable valve timing on intake and exhaust. And it produces 260 hp, enough to power the cobalt to 60mph in 5.5 sec. The Cruze will use the 1.8L that was in the Saturn Astra which is a complete dog (128 ft lbs torque). However, they will offer a 1.4L turbo with around 140-150 horse that supposedly achieves 40 mpg highway (EPA estimates) in the Cruze. Hopefully this next small car from European GM will handle like a small car should.
  • powderkeggpowderkegg Member Posts: 22
    I don't really understand where you are coming from. I have a 2008 Cobalt LS XFE and the car does exactly what I bought it for. In my first year of ownership I drove the car just over 15,000 miles and spent only $780 in fuel and less than $40 in maintenance (for one oil change). I did need to change the oil twice but one change was free at the dealer. The car is stylish, rides nicely and has decent features for what it was bought for; to be an economical mode of transportation. If you want a real sports car than don't buy a Cobalt... not even the SS model. Get real.
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    I bought my 2007 2LT red coupe in Oct., 2007 with 3 miles on it, and I broke it in for 1,200 miles instead of 500, by varying RPMs up and down, up and down repeatedly. I change oil & filter every 3000 miles. I now have 15,300 miles and ALWAYS get 38 - 42 MPG, and sometimes 44 and 46, with Valero regular. I've been wondering about the accuarcy of the onboard MPG computer.
    I'm in Northern California with temperature 50 - 70 all year.
    For a sporty car, it rides very well and is quiet, with underhood sound insulation and 1" thick foam engine cover. I can't even hear the engine. Tires are Yokohama AVID TRZ, kept at 33 PSI.
    I'll try to find out the accuracy on the onboard MPG computer and send you any info. I get, if you send me your email address.
    My 2LT is the high-end, with seat height and lumbar adjustments, and Daytime Running Lights. The electric steering is superbly tight, with good weighting. This car has been marvelously designed and assembled. The door hold-open even has 3 positions,
    instead of two.
    I'm 73 and have been a car enthusiast all my life and have been studying the Consumer Reports for 30 years. They are usually accurate with reliability and comments, but their comments about the Cobalt are for a different car, not the 2LT!
    I customized this car with red seat covers and painted a lot of the inside red, and painted wheel covers black. I painted the keyholes red too. I don't know how to include images in this reply. If you'd like to correspond more and see photos, send me a reply and I'll try to send them to you."> God bless America and vehicles with American marques and MADE IN USA (Lordstown, OH). Ted
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    Please see my reply #296, for very good news about my 2007 Cobalt.
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    Please see my reply #296. I always get 38 - 42 MPG highway and sometimes 44 or 46. This is highway with no traffic jams, no slow traffic, no steep hills.
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    Please see my post #296, with automatic 38 - 42 MPG and sometimes 44.
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    Superbrightleds.com has a huge selection. It's best to call them and speak with the rep. If you replace the filament bulbs with LEDs, you will have to
    order a load-resistor for each one because the LEDs draw much less current than the filament bulbs. If you don't use the load-resistors, they will flash very fast, called hyper-flashing. BUT, the load-resistor has to be wired across the LED, and it generates heat, so you have to mount it on a flat surface with two screws. One of the ones I got broke at the wire-to-resistor solder joint because there was not strain relief. I returned them because I did not have a flat spot to mount the heat-generating resistors.
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    Please see my Reply #296. No service station will put hydrogen into a tire because it will explode. They do put in nitrogen for a fee of $5 to $12 per tire. The benefit is that the tire pressure will vary less with changing temperatures beause pure nitrogen expands and contracts less than air, which is 80% nitrogen and 20% oxygen.
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    That's a good point about a clean and waxed car. I keep my with a car cover and wax it 3x per year with Turtle Wax Blue Ice and I get 38 - 42 MPG always highway. Please see my post #296.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    just so you know.. there is no benefit to extra nitrogen in a cobalt tire or any passenger care tire, except for lining the wallet of whoever sells it. the idea of hydrogen in the tire is horrifying and reminds me of the JATO story legend ...

    btw, measure distance-driven/gallons to see the real mpg and compare with dashboard mpg-meter... i bet you'll find the dashboard usually off by the same percentage and reading a tad high in your case.

    I always liked cobalt styling! almost bought one but waited for cruze. :}
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    i avoid waxing cars...
    let's just say/suppose it's for mpg reasons: i figure the weight of the wax costs more mpg than the smoothness/airflow at such low speed.
    but seriously folks, the clearcoat under the wax is just as smooth as a layer of wax on top of it, isn't it ?

    for aircraft the weight of the paint really matters - iirc, some aeronautical painter discovered a way to use thinner layers of paint... added up to hundreds of pounds per aircraft... less weight, saves the airlines BIG $ on fuel.

    happy travels...
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