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Can I replace the transmission with one out of a 1996?
In general, I would guess the tranny would match.
If your tranny fluid is going down, the modulator is gone - leak in the diaphram and fliud is being pulled into the intake and burned.
modulator is new and the lines are ok.
I bought myself a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT (2 wheel, 6cyl, A/C, pwr windows, manual trans) about a year ago.
Good Feedback: Drives great, plenty of power for hauling small loads, the engine is the shared Mazda design - reliablity is HIGH with these - the 1999 Probe LX had the same engine (had one of those prior to this truck), easy to fix / maintain, plenty of parts at the local scrap yards, plenty of room in the cab, A/C is COLD, heats up quickly in the winter (thank the lords!), engine purrs even after 11yrs. I'm not exactly certian on this issue but mine has a tough time getting into gear from time to time. Its been suggested that this could be due to a poor slave cylinder where the clutching is concerned. I'm waiting for it to stick completely in gear before changing this though simply because I'm uncertain - I don't know that this is a common issue with this model / year but it is frustrating enough to mention.
Poor Feedback: It's a truck & as such, winter tires are (just my opinion) a requirement - pretty greasey in the rain / snow - even with added weight in the bed. Due to recent electrical issues (minor) the reading I've done suggests that there may be a control module that requires replacing in the steering column, apparently this is common to this year of Ranger. Mine came with a single key and to have another key made they basically have to give me a new key system & that is expensive! This is due to the Anti-Theft technology they used at the time. If I had a second key, the third could be programmed from the original two but with only one, Ford has to work some magic I'm told (as per a couple dealerships).
Would I purchase / recommend a Ford Ranger to others, YES definitely. At least the 1999 I would. I'm happy with the way it drives, it always starts and it's got plenty of power when hauling a load and gas consumption, full or empty is fair - at least comparable to the '99 Probe I got rid of to get the truck. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Before it happened I would hear a whirling sound when I accelerated and less
of a whirling sound when I let up. As I kept driving the flywheel totally broke
away from the transmission and the truck coasted to a stop. Where the flywheel
attaches to the transmission was completely ripped off. ($97 for flywheel $400
for labor.) Had to drop trans and exhaust. 1996 4x4 4.0 extended cab Ranger.
I am not comfortable with the dipstick being "clean" after the freeway driving. Please HELP !
THANKS !
First off, cold means that the engine hasn't been running and is cold to the touch.
Automatic transmission - check the fuild level while the truck is running.
Manual transmission - check the fluid while the truck is off.
Remove the dipstick & wipe it clean - re-insert & remove again & the fluid level should be between the high & low marks on the stick - the two holes. Keep in mind that when the truck is running pumps circulate the fluid which means less in the area you are measuring from - perhaps a LOT less.
Bottom line... if you're not experiencing hard shifts or noises while shifting then you're probably okay but if you've a real concern about it, you should take it to a mechanic & have them check it or for what little it costs, have them change it out. They can also tell you about the color - red=healthy, brown to black = time to change.
Hope this helps & cheers!
I assume, like most auto trannys, the manual tells you to check after being warmed up with the motor running, in Park or Neutral. Right?
You said 'Checking it after driving on the freeway for 25 miles, with the engine running, the dipstick is clean, no trace of fluid. '
I think the manual says to run the vehicle until warmed up, then check. Running this far, if the outside temps were high (90 or more), might make it hotter than the manual is requesting. But, hotter would just push the fluid level higher.
Anyway, after 25 miles, engine running, no fluid on the dip stick means obviously YOUR FLUID IS LOW!!!!!
Look in the manual for the correct tranny fluid to use, and go buy some and add some. Add a little at a time, one cup, and recheck. When it starts to show on the stick, it will come up quick while adding a little fluid, a few ounces. Of course, with it off the stick you might have to add more than one quart.
If it's this low, you have a leak somewhere. Or, the vacumn modulator for the transmission has a busted diaphram and the fluid is being pulled up the vacumn hose and burned in the motor.
Question now is: have I done permanent damage to the transmission or do I get a pass on this blunder? Drove it around 200 miles or less on the LOW fluid.
Low,low fluid will cause 'drivability' problems. Harsh or sloppy shifts. Not 'going into gear' quickly. If you drove it a while with symptoms like this, you might do damage.
My somewhat simular story - A previous wife, before she became a wife, had a 69 Camero that everyone in her family drove and no one maintained. It was a 3 year old car. When we go so close that she would let me grope her car, I checked the tranny. Nothing on the stick. I buy a quart of Dexron and slowly start adding it. And adding it. And adding it. Got the entire quart in there - don't remember if it was on the stick or not. But it took about another half quart to get to the mark. I then jacked it up and looked at the bottom. For some reason, most of the bolts on the tranny pan were loose. One was gone. Tightened up the pan bolts and replaced the missing one and the fluid then stayed in it.
And the car never missed a shift and was very smooth - with 1 1/2 quarts low.
I would like to know what is going on? What transmissions can I look for to replace it. What years will bolt up and if a different make like Masda would also work?
does anyone know where I could get a picture or the tranny or where all the bolts are????
thx guys
Mark