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I have a question for the group regarding the use of the aux input. If powering the device (iPod) from the 12V outlet, is a ground loop device required to eliminate "alternator/engine/feedback noise"?
I have heard that (on some vehicles) using the aux input and powering an audio device from the 12V power-point can cause this unwanted whine/noise.
I currently use my iPod in my Highlander, thru an aftermarket device that plugs into the back of the radio, providing a one-wire (audio and power) interface ... thru the longer recepticle on the bottom of the iPod, rather than thru the RCA/earphone jack that I assume the TCH input will require.
Hope I have made my question clear. hehe...
Can anyone comment? Thanks!
I use my iPod via a cassette converter, and I get all sorts of whine as I rev the engine. There's a way to get rid of this???
Spiff?
I tried hooking up my Roady XT XM radio via the aux jack, and it sounds BAD - annoying hiss/whine that sounds like ground loop interference (and the audio level is pretty low). I think both of these are partially the fault of the Roady XT - I have seen a lot of comments about these issues - especially the audio level.
I am using the FM transmitter in the meantime - it sounds far better than the AUX at this time. I will share my results with this GLI filter when it arrives.
Thanks
The FM transmitter into my Prius ls no comparison. Green with ENVY.
I'm suspecting the cheap male-to-male 3.5mm cable I am using. I paid about $3 for it. It's 6ft long. There was a Monster Cable available, but for about $15. I considered paying for the upgrade, but figured I'd give the cheap one a shot.
Can you tell us what type of cable you used?
I found using the iPod interface inconvenient and probably a little dangerous as my eyes were off the road more than I'd like. I've seen some interface kits that connect to the full interface for aux devices and would give us control of the iPod from the steering wheel, just like with an XM. Not even sure if they are available for 07 Camry.
Anyone seen or tried one of these?
I got my GLI filter from Crutchfield today and installed it my TCH.
MAJOR improvement over the "naked" aux connection. I think it sounds a bit better than the FM modulator too.
I am much happier now, but I wish that the "hole" for wire pass-through in the console cubby was on the driver's side instead of the passenger side. I have the Roady XT mounted on the driver's side, and thus have to route the power and audio cable over the front of the closed cubby. If I get ambitious, I might see if I can route them under the console (with a little bit of disassembly). I wish I had a manual that shows how to take it apart!
Download it!!!!!!!!!!!
No interference, and no ground loop eliminator was needed.
I have my iPod connected via a Belkin "Auto Kit for iPod" (BestBuy for around $30). It plugs into the 12v outlet. It has it's own aux input. I plugged one end of the "mini to mini" gold plated cable I bought (at Walmart for about $4) into the aux input on the car, and the other end into the aux input on the Belkin.
The Belkin then has a cable that plugs into the bottom of the iPod, (dock connector) and allows the iPod to charge and play thru the aux on the car. This also allows the iPod to reach into the center of the car... with only one wire attached directly to the iPod...if a passenger wants to change songs.
It will pause the iPod when the car is shut off, and all that is needed is to push play when I start up the car again.
nice!
BTW, I find the sound quality of this JBL system to be superb! I don't need the 4CD changer with over 4000 songs on my iPod!
In searching, I've found a few posts that link to pictures which seem to hide the cord well. However, I cant quite figure out how. I only picked up my car yesterday so haven't really taken apart the panels (and would like not to if possible), however I plan on running the wire from the unit to the trunk and hide it as much as possible.
Specifically, how do you get the wire out of the recessed area where it will sit (where the power and input plugs are) without snaking it right out the front and down the center console? I imagine their is a cutout or pass through within that area, right?
Second, how do you best go from the car cabin into the trunk?
Thanks again.
Why do you need to do wiring if you have a factory installed "player". Are you saying you have a Sirius tuner installed and they didn't install the antenna? Are you positive that you already have a player installed or just the factory system that is compatable with Sirius (but you still would need to install)?
I'm trying to install a Sportster satellite reciever using the lighter jack, the input jack and an antenna.
My antenna is mounted on the roof, right in the center of the rear window. I ran the antenna wire around the window, and tucked it into the groove, maintaining a bit of tension on the wire to keep it in place. I then ran it into the trunk, and wrapped it around the rear seat fold-down release several times to keep it tight in the groove around the window. From there, it goes through the fold down seat opening, tucks into the gaps in the cushions, and tucks under the door sill trim to get to the front.
I got in my TCH this morning and the radio/nav didn't come on. I tried shutting down and restarting to no avail. I took it to a dealer and they simply told me "the stereo is fried and this happens sometimes". They are ordering a new one however it will not be in for a week! The worst part is I realized that I have become very reliant on the nav as I use it for work to locate customers. Guess I'll be dusting off the paper maps to find my way around for a week. Oh and in case anyone is wondering, I've had the car for just over 1 month and it has 3000 miles on it. Also I will loose the data from my best MPG, 81.9. :mad:
Right now, I'm planning on getting the receiver and install kit from Toyotapartspeople, and having my local Hi-Fi Buys install it. (I'm not terribly saavy when it comes to car electronic components and I'd rather pay for a pro to install it) Is there anything I should be concerned about?
I know this question has been asked before, but just for my peace of mind: Will the XM be fully integrated into the stereo? (Station, track and song info visible on the display) Are there any "gotchas" I should look out for?
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Jay
You should spend some time considering where you want the head unit placed, etc. Instead of letting them decide for you.
But Jay, I can't believe the dealer install is that much more, bottom line, than having the hi-fi shop do it. And even if it is $50 more, wouldn't the dealers expertise about the Toyota wiring, etc, outweigh that?
From what I understand, the XM tuner is designed to integrate directly into the 2007 Camry Hybrid's JBL Audio system. (I'm getting the 6-CD changer, which comes "Ready" for XM/Sirius) So if that's the case, my only concern would be the placement of the Satellite Antenna to ensure good reception.
As for having the dealer install it - That's a good point. The price difference is about $100 (Dealer wants to charge $450, and if I order the parts it's $287 for the parts and $50 for the install, so ~$337 for HiFi Buys)
Is there really that much of a difference if the Dealer installs the same Radio?
Cheers!
Jay
In my experience, six installs of XM and Sirrius, there is a big difference. Especially with the in-dash, satellite-ready units.
First of all, and most important, they are used to all of the Toyota connections and wiring plans. If something does go wrong, and you seek to correct the problem, it's a no questions asked repair at the dealer. At the after-market places, the kid who did the install might or might not be there later.
One time I used a very high-end audio-video shop who does custom home theatre installs besides the radio work. I was leaving to drive from San Diego, California to Seattle. Somewhere around Sacramento, I noticed scratches on and around the console and radio face plate area, that I missed, as they were hard to see without being in the daylight. When I go back a week later, they gave me nothing but trouble about getting it fixed, as they obviously believed I had the scratches prior to their work, or did them after, and the kid who did the install work was no longer employed there.
Bottom line, you are spending lots for the new car already. Spend the extra $100 to insure a professional job, and one the dealer, wanting to keep you as a customer, will stand behind.
3year/36,000 mile warranty?
Seriously though - thank you for the advice. I had some initial misgivings about doing the install aftermarket (even though my salesman recommended it to save $$$), even though I had a fairly good experience installing aftermarket stereos (like in my current Vue). Your point, and wvagasguy's note that it should be covered under the 3 yr/36,000 mile warranty, made up my mind for me. I'm willing to fork out that extra $100 for the piece of mind that it will bring me.
Thanks again for the advice - I appreciate the helpful information I've been getting while reading these forums.
Cheers!
Jay
Thanks
What can my dealer do about my current reception? Have others requested that dealer place the antenna in a different location and got a good response? I'm afraid to take anything apart to run wiring on my own that may lead to loose connections and the rattling and noise that others are complaining of. I also want to keep everything integrated and not have an individual tuner for the Sat radio.
Thanks for any help.
Many of us who have had satellite radio for several years now also have them inside the house, with the antenna sitting on top of a table, or even on the floor, behind our AV setup, and it works perfectly fine, going right through the dry wall, insulation, roof trusses and shingles.
I have been told satellite radio, as opposed to satellite TV, radiates a signal down, and is not totally line-of-site. Unless your windshield is coated with some kind of metallic coating, why do you think you would get a "better" signal mounted on your cars roof? Do you get occasional blackouts, gaps? Well, with a roof mount you do too.
What you said makes sense. However, I read on other sites like "greenhybrid.com" that the reception works best when attached to a metal ground plane like the car roof.
See note from that conversation:
"You said that the antenna is on the rear deck behind the battery vent? Is it mounted to a piece of metal that is on top of this deck, or is it just sitting on the deck itself?
The reason that I ask is that there is supposed to be a metal "ground plane" for the antenna to attach to. This is the nature of these antennas - the ground plane allows for proper reception."
BTW no tinting in vehicle.
I am getting numerous blackouts, a couple every minute or two. I had XM in my 2005 Accord and hardly ever had blackouts with roof-mounted antenna. As a result, just assumed that the lack of a "metal ground plane" on a windshield was the reason. However, what you say about home based systems with antennas in the house makes sense. Bottom line: Don't know what the problem is or how best to solve it. Going to call the dealer today.
Any more suggestions anyone?????
Thanks
The atmosphere and time of the year, Sun activity also plays a part.
Thanks again terry.
Perhaps you can contact the dealer and get at least a copy, or if you know who makes the unit, their website should have all that....
Thanks
There is a setting somewhere menus that will prevent the display from going back whatever screen you are currently on (whether it is an audio screen, destination screen, etc). Unfortunately, I can't remember where this is... The description of the setting is pretty self-explanatory.
Anybody else find that they can't even get it installed through their dealer? :confuse:
"If “WAIT” appears on the display, it indicates that the inside of the player unit may be too hot due to the very high ambient temperature. Remove the disc or magazine from the player and allow the player to cool down."
We didn't see any error messages on our TCH audio system, and certainly hope that the system is capable of playing CD's for more than an hour at a time.
Any suggestions for a solution to our problem, and has anyone else experienced the same problem?
It is another "concern" blown up by users on forums. The unit might be faulty, that is more likely than it being a "temperature" problem.