I kept putting off doing something about my headlights (not much of a do-it-yourself person, and don't have a wall handy to judge height), and now I'm REALLY regretting it. In early December my hubby hit a coyote that was running in the middle of a rural road (55 mph, 2 lanes, no time to brake) - no problem, no damage. Right before Christmas, in the rainy dark, he hit a bicycle that was in the middle of a freeway lane. He didn't see it in time to avoid it (traveling at 65 mph, not speeding) and couldn't move over due to traffic. We don't have the car back yet, but the estimate was over $3000 - there's a hole in the oil pan, the radiator and housing needed to be replaced, plus the body damage (bumper, spoiler, some other black metal part, hood buckled). My advice is to get this taken care of sooner, rather than later!
Yes, having the dealer do it is smart. Most will do it free, assuming you bought the car there. I didn't know about the headlamp issue until after I purchased the vehicle, so I had it adjusted at my 5,000 mile service visit. It's much better, but I think I will have the beams bumped up just a bit more the next time my vehicle is in for service. And yes, I agree the low-beam situation can be very dangerous, and I hope Honda monitors this site and plans to correct the situation.
Anyone else run into this problem? I'm not sure if it's the cold or I forgot to tighten it (and is it 1 or 3 clicks?) now it won't go away. Other forums have mentioned it needing some time to reset itself and that it beats "Check Engine" but it's been a week already. Some say weeks, some say 10mi. Anyone?
Mine took over two weeks to re-set, but re-set it did. The system needs a precise set of parameters to self-test, and it can take some time for exactly the right conditions to present.
I had the indicator go on a few weeks ago for some unknown reason. The weather was a little strange so I assumed it was due to humidity or pressure or some other atmospheric variable. It didn't turn off for a few days so I reset it and it never came back on - I guess everything is fine. Check your manual, I think you just hold the button down for a few seconds.
I just bought my FIT (base) three days ago. The coolant low temp light has come on the last two days even though today it was ~90 degrees. Today after 8 hours of work I jumped in my FIT, the low coolant temp light came on and I took off out of the parking lot. My FIT then began to sputter (had winddow down), and after I shifted into 2nd gear I lost power and the check engine light flickered on and off. This happend for about a mile and a half, I pulled over and popped the hood and took a look. All seemed ok. Further down the road the symptoms went away. I immediately took it back to the dealer where I bought the car and they did an OBD reading and said that cylinder 1 was misfiring (a stored error, not a permanent one). They said they cleared the error and that it should be ok and asked if I started and turned off the vehicle suddenly. I said no and asked why this happened period, as I was concerned that it may happen agian in the future. Again the dealership is convinced this is a non-event, however I reamin skeptical... I am wondering if it is realated to the low coolant temp light and if I should wait until it goes out or if this car is a candidate for the lemon law? If anyone esle has had a similar experiance, please let me know! Thanks for your time and efforts! egsnyde-at-hotmail.com :sick: :confuse: :confuse:
We had a big rain, and some water got in the compartment with the gas cap. The gas cap warning light came on. Once I opened it out to dry it went away.
It turned out that my brand new Fit came with a cracked spark plug and that was the reason for the cylinder 1 misfiring. Then the dealer offered to replace it with a used one temporarily as they didn't have any in stock. Anyone else have this problem?
I promise, one of these days, I'm installing a kill switch for the tailgate light, so you can leave the back open without the light running continuously. This probably involves taking off a panel.
I was looking for the switch in the jamb that depresses when you close the hatch..couldn't find it! I know where the one are for the 4 doors, but the hatch seems to sense the actual latch somehow.
Bought my FIt two days ago and the TPMS light was on from the getgo. Salesman said it would clear in a couple of miles -- surprise surprise, it didn't. After going back to the dealer this morning and being told that I would have to leave it with them for two days before they could "hook it up to the computer" I made a little bit of a fuss and finally spoke with a service tech who actually helped.
It seems the system monitors tire pressure based on the distance from the valve stem (where the sensor/transmitter is located) and the ground. If it is too low (low pressure) or too high (high pressure) then it sends the alarm signal. The dash display only shows the tread symbol with the "!" when it first senses a problem. BUT, after a while the "TPMS" light will come on and the "!" light will go off, which makes it seem like the system itself has a problem. Apparently the same thing will happen if you put on the spare or a tire without the sensor/transmitter. It just is a result of the fault going unaddredsed for too long....
Anyway.... the fix was to get the tire pressures right. All four tires were at 38 cold; why would the dealer would set them there when the spec is 32? I lowered them to 35 (tires were warm from about 15 miles of driving) and the light immediately went off. Thank you helpful service tech., but I wish it weren't necessary to have yet another need for a computer-assist when I have a damn gauge in the glove box. I like keeping the tire pressure high, and I might go back to 38 or more eventually, but I guess I will always have that light on on the dash if I do. Thank you Ford Explorer and their underinflated FIrestones from 4 years back.
Suffice it to say I am having a hard time getting used to headlights that do not turn themselves off. After having to jump my car several times already in the 6 weeks I have owned it, I purchased a Black & Decker Smart Start that will allow me to theoretically charge my dead battery through the cigarette lighter. I called my Honda dealer's service dept to run this by them and they said it should be fine. Well... I just tried it out and my car not only didn't start, it made a very unusual clicking sound when I turned the key. I am recharging it to try again (assuming that I can't damage it any more than I already have) before I try jumping it the traditional way. Has anyone else had any experience with an external charger like this? Did I kill my electrical system?
My wife took the car yesterday and when I got in the car last night after she used it I noticed that the radio/clock was dimmed. The interior lights to the gauges were fine, but the radio was much darker. Then when I turned the headlights off the clock radio went back to normal. So whenever I turn on the parking/headlights, the radio is very dim, in fact I cannot see it during the day. Did she hit something to dim the radio or is it random and a light issue? I am at 25,000 miles so I am under warrenty if I need Honda to take care of it. Thanks
The clicking sound means the external battery didn't have enough juice to engage the solenoid on the starter. I can't say anything about whether or not anything else got damaged but the starter shouldn't be damaged by this.
If' I'm jumping a vehicle, I'll sometimes get the clicking if I try to start the car too soon. The dead battery needs a little time to charge otherwise the starter doesn't get enough current.
Yeah, the real reason is that the lighter plug in is not connected to the battery when the key is turned off.
to verify this, If you have a GPS plugged in to the socket and then shut off the engine the external power source is disconnected from the GPS. It follows then that the plug-in socket cannot charge the battery with the key turned off. The electrical lines to the plug-in socket are not heavy enough to start the engine with anything plugged into the socket. Use a real battery charger connected to the battery terminals, or some jumper cables connected the same way.
That's why the charger says to turn the key to Accessory when using it. The battery did get a charge; it went from being stone dead to clicking. It just didn't get enough of a charge to actually start the car. (I tried repeating the entire process several times). Needless to say, I did not damage my electrical system by the exercise; I just wasted $40 and an afternoon of my time.
BTW, after 2 months the car succeeded in training me to turn its lights off, so this is no longer an issue. (I hope!) Thanks for your replies!
"BTW, after 2 months the car succeeded in training me to turn its lights off, so this is no longer an issue. (I hope!) Thanks for your replies!"
You know, I'm a little curious about this. I've started to get out of my 08 Sport MT (US) a couple of times with the lights still on. When I did, the car started making a steady beeping noise, different in tone than the seat belt beep and steady. Didn't stop until I realized what I'd done and turned the lights off. I think turning the car off with the lights still on is what triggers the noise, maybe taking the key out, haven't tested. The fact is I can't see how I could make this mistake because of the noise. I take it all Fits don't do this?
Great Question. How do you reset the TPMS indicator light? . TPMS indicator seems to come one and stay on with HIGH pressure readings and ONLY the dealer can reset the button. This is sounding like a gimmick at Honda dealerships. Saturday we just purchased a HONDA Accord sudan and within the first three miles the TPMS indicator light came on {NOT the individual low tire pressure light}. Calling the dealership from the highway the salesman said it was from the heat of highway driving and if it were still on Monday to call the dealership. Monday {today} at the service dept. they wanted me to leave the car for a day or two until they could " get to it" {and without use of a demo or rental!!}. I asked if perhaps someone could just check the tire pressure. ALL FOUR TIRES had 50 lbs of pressure. and they wanted to know if anyone adjusted the pressure. when I explained it occurred within 3 miles and I called the dealership from the highway and that if they didnt have a rental or demo they could keep the new car, they suddenly had someone who could reset the TPMS and we were on our way within about 45 minutes. Interesting how the sale technician stated that this wont be a problem if I am sure to have ALL my oil changes at that dealership!!
open your glove box and take all the junk out. bend the sides of the glove box inwards. The plastic needs to bend/bow until the stopper arms on the side, which you can't see, can clear the glove box housing.
The glove box will rotate all the way down and you can see the cabin filter right there. I ordered my filters from handa.com.
It's a bit nerve wracking bending the sides of the box inwards.
I purchased a Fit Sport AT in BBP this Saturday 7/26/08. Sunday the TPMS indicator came on. I called the dealer on Monday but the service center is only open when I am at work. I called a Honda dealership close to work and the person who answered the phone said that they were uncomfortable doing warranty work on a car they did not sell. Great. I called the customer service number . They said of course the other dealer should have worked on the car. The representative suggested calling my dealer and having them pick up my car and give me a loaner.
It seems like TPMS has been a problem with a few Fits.
I have a 2008 Honda Fit Sport, which I bought 7 months ago. My low tire pressure indicator came on this morning. (I was away for two weeks on vacation so when I turned on the ignition the light came on ). After work I adjusted the tire pressure to the specification on the placard located on the inside of my driver's side door. When I turned the engine on after ensuring the tire pressure was the way it should be, the light did not go off.
The owner's manual says that if the light doesn't go off that I should take it to my dealer. My step father tells me I need a particular machine to reset the sensor and it can cost anywhere between $60-$80 and dealers typically charge you an arm and leg to get it done.
Actually, after starting it up this morning and driving about a quarter of a mile of the road, the light flicked off. I suppose it did reset itself and I'd panicked over nothing. I'm a little paranoid with this car because it's my first brand new car. All other cars I've had in the past were '87 and '88 Honda Accords and they had all sorts of problems.
So, I'm certainly glad that this turned out to be a false alarm and that everything turned out all right in the end! Nevertheless, I appreciate the feedback!
I took it to the dealer and got a courtesy car for the day. It turned out that one of the tires had 40 pounds (!) of pressure instead of 32. The service manager said that the tire was probably overfilled in Japan and that the pressure monitor light had initially come on but then when nothing was done (I presume on the trip to MD from Japan) that light went off and the TPMS light came on. Go figure.
That's called the dealer dropping the ball..... Vehicles are typically shipped with over pressured tires to avoid flat spotting. It was missed during the prep of the vehicle and your dealer is trying to blame it on Japan? :confuse:
Purchased to '09 Fit Sport AT yesterday (9-6-08) and put about 230 miles on it, about 70% freeway miles around 70 mph. Warm day, but not hot (Southern California). The TPMS light seems to be a problem. It first came on after about 90 miles, so took it back to the dealer service. They said they had set the tire pressure to factory setting at delivery and were surprised the light came on. They made an adjustment to the TPMS and reset it and said since this car is so new with these new tires, the settings may take some time to dial in the right settings.
Sure enough, later in the day the TPMS light came on again. So I'll have to take it in again to get this adjusted and reset.
While driving and coming off the highway, the service engine light on my 2007 Honda Fit Sport 5speed with 73k miles came on. Read the manual and it states its an emissions issue so although car will drive ok, bring it to the dealer. I went back on the highway and tried to engage the cruise control - It now doesn't work. I'm wondering now if the problem is the cruise control or the cruise control doesn't engage when there is the service engine light issue.
The cruise control started working normally the next morning. It also looks like the check engine light was due to a dirty air filter. After replacing it, the light came off and hasn't gone on since. Crossing my fingers...
I bought my 2008 Honda Fit Sport on 4/1/2008 and at 5,000 miles my battery went kaput. Others have had this problem with the battery as indicated in the above forum. The dealer did not have a replacement battery nor did auto parts stores. The battery was ordered by the dealership and they had to pay for a rental car until the replacement battery unit arrived. One Honda Dealership in San Antonio, Texas had 26 Honda Fits with bad batteries and had to wait on receiving them. Not enough batteries were manufactured and a new supply needed to be supplied.
Has anyone on this forum had the same problem and can answer the following questions:
1. Why is the battery different from regular batteries? 2. What is a suitable replacement for the battery? 3. Does the Honda Fit have a special alternator? 4. Is there a problem with jump starting the battery? 5. Can the battery be recharged using a normal battery charger?
Does anyone know if Honda put a different air conditioning system in the 2009? I was reading that the 2008's was blowing out like my CRV's did, and wasn't going to invest in something I knew was broken. Thanks.
I recently ran down my battery on my 2009 Fit by leaving the hatch open a little (easy to do). After charging the battery and driving the car apx. 100 miles I noticed that the indicator on the battery is white (suppose to be blue if the battery does not need charging. The dealer tells me that it may take a long time for the blue to return. This doesn't seem reasonable to me. Any comments.
I just had both low beams stop working at the same time. All other electronic functions seem to be OK including the low beams.Has anyone seen this before?
I read another thread about the issues with the Honda Fit low-beam headlights. Are they any better in the 2009 model? If not, will the dealer charge me to adjust them higher? Or is it better just to replace the bulbs? I haven't bought a Fit yet but I'm looking at one.
The same thing happened to me last night. Scary. They started working again mid-morning for no apparant reason. My mechanic is unsure about what to do. Considering swapping out the headlight switch. The part is only about $45 from Honda. What happened in your case - I see your post is a few months old - what did the problem turn out to be??
We ended up taking the car to the dealer since no others could figure out what was wrong. Logic pointed to the light switch and as it turned out that is exactly what the dealer replaced. I believe we ended up paying for the switch only after pushing back on the labor charges. The light switch should not fail in the life time of the car let alone within 2 years........they came through and replaced for free.....we paid for part. All in all we are happy Honda customers.
Thanks! My mechanic also wasn't able to say for certain what went wrong, but ended up repacing the headlight switch as a best guess. So far, so good -- with any luck we're both all set.
I am on my 4th headlight switch for my '07 Fit. The original switch was replaced by my dealer in January '09, although they were uncertain that it was the real cause of the problem. Total cost to me $229.57.
The second switch was replaced three months later, with a similar amount of uncertainty. That one must have been of higher quality because it lasted five whole months. The dealer agreed to consider it under warranty, so there was no charge to me.
Damn, that's lame. It's a dangerous situation. At least your dealer was willing to replace the part (for the third or fourth time) at no charge. For me, so far, so good, but it's only been a couple weeks since my switch was replaced. I didn't do it at the local Honda dealer, their prices are way to high. My mechanic bought the switch from Honda for $45, then charged me another $20 to install it. Honda should consider a recall or they may be looking at litigation one day soon.
Comments
My Fit was not safe to drive at night until the low beams were adjusted.
It seems like this is a common problem.
I was looking for the switch in the jamb that depresses when you close the hatch..couldn't find it! I know where the one are for the 4 doors, but the hatch seems to sense the actual latch somehow.
When I arrived home I checked the tire pressures which were: 42,38,40,46. This was after waiting 1.5 hrs for the dealer to prep the car!
Anybody know how to reset the warning light so I don't have to drive 130 miles (RT) to the dealer? Thanks in advance!!
It seems the system monitors tire pressure based on the distance from the valve stem (where the sensor/transmitter is located) and the ground. If it is too low (low pressure) or too high (high pressure) then it sends the alarm signal. The dash display only shows the tread symbol with the "!" when it first senses a problem. BUT, after a while the "TPMS" light will come on and the "!" light will go off, which makes it seem like the system itself has a problem. Apparently the same thing will happen if you put on the spare or a tire without the sensor/transmitter. It just is a result of the fault going unaddredsed for too long....
Anyway.... the fix was to get the tire pressures right. All four tires were at 38 cold; why would the dealer would set them there when the spec is 32? I lowered them to 35 (tires were warm from about 15 miles of driving) and the light immediately went off. Thank you helpful service tech., but I wish it weren't necessary to have yet another need for a computer-assist when I have a damn gauge in the glove box. I like keeping the tire pressure high, and I might go back to 38 or more eventually, but I guess I will always have that light on on the dash if I do. Thank you Ford Explorer and their underinflated FIrestones from 4 years back.
If' I'm jumping a vehicle, I'll sometimes get the clicking if I try to start the car too soon. The dead battery needs a little time to charge otherwise the starter doesn't get enough current.
to verify this, If you have a GPS plugged in to the socket and then shut off the engine the external power source is disconnected from the GPS. It follows then that the plug-in socket cannot charge the battery with the key turned off. The electrical lines to the plug-in socket are not heavy enough to start the engine with anything plugged into the socket. Use a real battery charger connected to the battery terminals, or some jumper cables connected the same way.
BTW, after 2 months the car succeeded in training me to turn its lights off, so this is no longer an issue. (I hope!) Thanks for your replies!
You know, I'm a little curious about this. I've started to get out of my 08 Sport MT (US) a couple of times with the lights still on. When I did, the car started making a steady beeping noise, different in tone than the seat belt beep and steady. Didn't stop until I realized what I'd done and turned the lights off. I think turning the car off with the lights still on is what triggers the noise, maybe taking the key out, haven't tested. The fact is I can't see how I could make this mistake because of the noise. I take it all Fits don't do this?
Does anyone know how to change the cabin air filter on the 2007 Sport AT? The manual says to see the dealer.
Regards,
Bubba
The glove box will rotate all the way down and you can see the cabin filter right there. I ordered my filters from handa.com.
It's a bit nerve wracking bending the sides of the box inwards.
My husband will try it tomorrow.
Best regards,
Bubba
It seems like TPMS has been a problem with a few Fits.
The owner's manual says that if the light doesn't go off that I should take it to my dealer. My step father tells me I need a particular machine to reset the sensor and it can cost anywhere between $60-$80 and dealers typically charge you an arm and leg to get it done.
What should I do?
I have TPMS in all of my vehicles and the light always resets itself when the proper pressure is attained.
Call Honda.
Actually, after starting it up this morning and driving about a quarter of a mile of the road, the light flicked off. I suppose it did reset itself and I'd panicked over nothing. I'm a little paranoid with this car because it's my first brand new car. All other cars I've had in the past were '87 and '88 Honda Accords and they had all sorts of problems.
So, I'm certainly glad that this turned out to be a false alarm and that everything turned out all right in the end! Nevertheless, I appreciate the feedback!
Vehicles are typically shipped with over pressured tires to avoid flat spotting.
It was missed during the prep of the vehicle and your dealer is trying to blame it on Japan? :confuse:
Sure enough, later in the day the TPMS light came on again. So I'll have to take it in again to get this adjusted and reset.
Anyone else seeing this issue with the '09s?
Any advise? Thanks!
I bought my 2008 Honda Fit Sport on 4/1/2008 and at 5,000 miles my battery went kaput. Others have had this problem with the battery as indicated in the above forum.
The dealer did not have a replacement battery nor did auto parts stores. The battery was ordered by the dealership and they had to pay for a rental car until the replacement battery unit arrived. One Honda Dealership in San Antonio, Texas had 26 Honda Fits with bad batteries and had to wait on receiving them. Not enough batteries were manufactured and a new supply needed to be supplied.
Has anyone on this forum had the same problem and can answer the following questions:
1. Why is the battery different from regular batteries?
2. What is a suitable replacement for the battery?
3. Does the Honda Fit have a special alternator?
4. Is there a problem with jump starting the battery?
5. Can the battery be recharged using a normal battery charger?
The second switch was replaced three months later, with a similar amount of uncertainty. That one must have been of higher quality because it lasted five whole months. The dealer agreed to consider it under warranty, so there was no charge to me.