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The B9 Driving Experience
Share your thoughts on how the B9 drives and handles here.
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Mileage aside, how do you like the way your B9 rides and handles?
-juice
I am a conservative driver on the highway (obviously with all the miles I rack up a lot of highway driving) usualy go low seventies & do avoid many jackrabbit starts.
Interesting on the trip mentioned above I ran regular on two of three tankfulls & noticed no difference either in performance or actual mpg. The jury is still out, for me, if high test really necessary
-juice
A poster to this board recently suggested the difference in performance, while doing a lot of highway mileage would not be that significant, more so on city driving. I kind of thought I would run regular more often during highway driving as a tankful would "disappear" in just a few hours of driving. I just want to be sure that I am not going to "pay" for using regular instead of high test down the road, via more maintenance required, or poor performance that might eventually result by not using high test. If there is no danger of that at all, no reason why I should not use regular exclusively. Average miles 35,000 per year divided by 21 mpg average = 1666 gallons. even at a difference of 25 cents per gallon, that's only around $400 per year, $35 per month, $8 per week, $1.13 per day (and so on.....) So we have it down to this, for the cost of one cup coffer per day (not quite, DD now for small coffee averages around $1.40 around here)will my car be much happier???
-juice
You should consider an electric car/cart. :P
Now to the question/post at hand...
So long as you are not traversing mountain passes or towing, typically activities that will stress the motor, and are not hearing any "pinging"/ misfires, you are certainly good to go with Regular Unleaded. It will not do any damage.
The Nissan Murano originally was listed as Premium only, but has since said Regular (87+ Octane) was okay.
Now you should note, however, tests show a slight increase in MPG using 90+ Octane, further off-setting the price difference. So, I would say your "real" savings would be about half that $400 per year you estimated, given your real-life driving experiences.
Iam planning on buying the 7 Seater Limited in a day or two..
Test drove the vehicle twice already, but the following question pop'd in my mind (after seeing the actual specs on the space).
Iam 5'10 and tried sitting in the rear seat earlier with no problem.. But after looking at the Rear Head Room Specs on Consumer Reports, noticed that there is'nt enough head room space for the rear seats -- I do not remember noticing the space left out when i was sitting...
Anyone has any comments / findings.. on this??
My husband and I disagree on the proper way to get down a mountain. Maybe you all can help. We have a vacation home on a steep mountain. Is the best way to go down the mountain is to use the Sports gear and go into 1st or 2nd gear? I use this so I don't have to brake all the way down. But I hear the transmission seem to whine as I'm picking up speed but 1st gear is keeping the car slow and in control. My husband thinks this is no good for the transmission. He thinks it's easier to brake down the mountain. I think the constant braking is no good for the brakes.
What's your opinions?
Thanks! :confuse:
Are $50-100 in brake pads more expensive or a replacement transmission at ~$3000-4000?
-mike
I had 220,000 on my AT 96 Outback and down-shifted all the time (multiple times per day). Never a problem with the transmission and the brake pads lasted 144K for fronts, 196K for rears at their first replacement. Granted, only a little city driving for me, but still a respectable life span for brake pads. In first gear with the Outback, I would keep the car around 10-15 mph, about 25-35 for 2nd.
-mike
:surprise:
That I do (at times), but I always get there. Well, okay.... I almost always get there.
Last trans my dad replaced on his Taurus set him back $6000.
I might use 4th to help a little, but not much lower than that.
For the most part very pleased with the vehicle, I do like the appearance quite a bit, much more so than the 08's which I just saw first one recently. It really does look like, at least from the front end, just like a Chrysler. Sure the improved motor would be a plus, and apparently the visibility is a little better than the 06's and 07's but otherwise essentially the same vehicle.
I have averaged just about 21 mpg on my vehicle, and that is pretty accurate based on fuel consumption, not just what the computer says. I thought the 08 was going to get slightly better gas mileage, and with the new criteria for gas mileage for 08 vehicles I thought it would remain at 18 city, 23 highway. However, I noticed on the sticker it shows now only 16 city, 21 highway. I don't see therefore, any improvement over the 06 and 07's.
At any rate, back to my comments about the harsh ride. After complaining for quite some time, the dealer finally installed new control arm bushings. They were supposed worn or broken. Unfortunately, no change in the ride.
I complained further, but they the dealer I had purchased the vehicle from (Carls's in Pawtucket, RI) went out of business so I went to another dealer, Somerset Subaru in Somerset, MA> I have had vehicles serviced there in the past and they are always very profession about working on vehicles not necessarily purchased there. To make a long story short, it was determined that the bushings and bushing brackets for the stabilizer bar were worn, and those were just replaced today.
Although the ride is still not "the smoothest" it is now much improved, similar to when I purchased the vehicle.
Any one else out there experience similar problems like this?
-mike
Every time I rotate the tires I spray some lithium grease on the bushings, that's convenient because it's accessible at that time.
Anyone know of any tweaks or workarounds for this? I am not looking to blast off with a stone cold car, but really, even pulling onto a busy street from my neighborhood can feel a little sketchy.
Is there such a thing as revised software that could re-tune the engine or shifting or something? PLEASE? I really like the car despite this; but something this strange would definitely keep me from recommending it to anyone. (Oh, and don't mention the 08. That thing is atrocious.)
Age: 41.
Or remote start?
I'd address the issue of warming up the engine more quickly directly.
Adjusting your fluids may be the best solution. I noticed a marked improvement in my '07 Outback when I put Amsoil 0w-30 in the engine and synthetic 75w-90 in the manual transmission and differentials. This was March 16, and we had about two weeks of daily -20F rising to +30F temperatures following that. It was like driving a slug before the change and was silky smooth afterward. Note that I do run a block/oil pan heater for a couple hours before morning start up at temps below zero. But, the car was sluggish even with the heaters so I suspect the most significant difference was the gear oil.
Never tried synthetic ATF, though.