My 02 Forester front windows go all the way down. The back seat windows only go down about 3/4 however. All are tinted and haven't been bothered by how far the window rolls down. Gene
I have seen some beautifully done tint jobs, conversly I have also seen many DIY jobs with so many air bubbles and the tint wrinkled beyond comprehension. It all depends on the quality of worksmanship and quality of tint itself too. Missing either one of them and the job will look like crap.
A good quality tint applied professionally looks just like smoked glass. Oh the other hand, someone who buys their tint at Wally World and applies it in their driveway is just wasting their time and money.
This is common, sounds more like a 'creak' than a squeak. You can even feel it in the pedal travel. The service manual suggests using a high temp silicone grease. Just a light dab at the point where the clutch slave actuator tip contacts the release fork. Right by the starter. Hope this helps.
....the '04 CU Annual Auto Issue shows the Forrester in very positive territory. Stills saving my Naval Reserve dollars for a manual transmission 28 MPG Highway rated X......ATB, ez
I've had a couple of times where my Forester wouldn't start up right away. The first time was about a month ago; I replaced the battery at that time, as my mileage (73,000 miles), as well as the car spending all winter outside in NH (including a 3 week stretch where it rarely broke 10 above) led me to think that would be enough. And it was, until Saturday when it did it again. Prior to Saturday, it had sat unused from Tuesday - Friday, with me starting it (with no problems) Friday night to move it to another place on the driveway.
Saturday, all the lights came on, but it just did not seem to be cranking much. I tried again a minute later, and it was fine. I used it Saturday, starting it several times with no problem.
Does this sound like the starter might be going bad? If it is, what can I expect to spend on repair/replacement?
I'm doing some final testing for the Forester auto climate control fix. This tiny device fits completely inside the temp sensor tube and so far has been working extremely well. I'm fiddling with the final voltage drop numbers to ensure operation in the 12V-14.5V range, but it looks like a go. This thing requires no wires or plastic to cut, has nothing visible on the dashboard, can be installed in about 15 minutes, and produces no noticeable noise. It should work on 2003-2004 XS and XT. If I get enough interest, I can "mass" produce it, but I will need to make at least ten of these to keep some costs down.
Feedback is welcome if anyone is interested. I will be posting detailed pics soon.
I just did the cabin air filter on my baby. Simple enough, total time was about 20 min. Just a word of advice, the bottom two screws on the glovebox, the ones that go straight up, are shorter than the others. I found out the hard way, my 9 year old was circling the car on her bike as was putting it all back together. I had a screw sticking out of the bottom, and a short one in my hand. It all worked out though.
Sgt. Len, and Paisan thanks for the kudos. I was just joking around, people on here have been nothing but nice, it's a pleasure. Joe
samiam_68 - I am VERY interested in your solution if it means that the fan level will respond better to changes in temperature and will not blow on level 4 until it's overshot the set temperature by 10 degrees!
If you decide not to market it, then please post detailed specs and picture of how you did it so that I can replicate it.
Ken - Hobie Gary's fix??? :-) I never fixed the problem on my 97 OBS (old Sube dealer). I nearly wore out my battery terminals resetting the ECU so much.
Anyone notice how most of us don't complain about it anymore, but not because we've necessarily come to love it, only because, I think, we just didn't think there was much we could do about it.
All of us that have the auto climate control paid dearly for it as part of our sticker price.
If Sam's fix works as good as we're all hoping, it would be a good thing for Subaru to sanction it as an aftermarket improvement, and perhaps even turn it into a retrofit kit for those of us so unhappy w/Hal overall.
I'm planning on installing whatever Sam comes up with, in fact had already decided to go with the external dash mount idea as soon as the weather got tolerable enough to work outside. A totally concealed fix is of course a much better idea.
I wonder if Subaru is doing something like this in the next model year Foresters? Didn't juice mention that the 2005 Foresters were going to get an improved climate control system?
Thanks for keeping after it Sam. I'm sure lots of us, even the lurkers, are following this with interest.
Thanks to all for your patience and interest. I did a final install yesterday and tested it for over an hour yesterday and today. The climate control works GRRRREAT. The temperature inside the cabin is rock steady (I have mine set at 73).
How does it work? I made some crude measurements, and figured out that the Climate Control System (CCS) was psychotic because it could not read the changes in cabin temperature fast enough. By the time a change registered, the cabin was either too hot or too cold. The the CCS would switch gears and the temp would swing in the opposite direction. This would continue ad infinitum.
The cause for this is the cabin temp sensor inside the dash by the ignition key. The sensor sits inside a hollow tube, but there is no airflow through the tube. It takes a long time for the cabin air to make its way inside the tube to affect the sensor.
The solution, apperently, is to force cabin air over the sensor so that the entire CCS reacts quickly and adjusts the temperature within a range of 1-3 degrees instead of 7-12 degrees which I measured initially.
I installed a tiny electric fan into the tube, and that did the trick. The hard part was finding such a miniature component (17mm diameter), and wiring it up with voltage drops so that the car's fluctuating (11.7V - 14.8V) electrical system doesn't fry it.
The installation is a breeze. Two screws to remove the dash panel under the steering wheel. The Positive(+) has a blade connector and plugs into an available connector by the fuse box. Negative(-) attaches to an existing nut on a dash bracket mount (10mm socket needed). The fan slides into the tube and fits snug (I have to file down the casing to make it fit). The voltage drop box tucks behind the radio console. No cutting or splicing.
The results have exceeded my expectations. The only noticeable aspect is a slight noise from the tiny fan. The fan motor spins at 11K RPM. Since it's sitting inside a hollow tube which acts as a sound amplifier, you can hear a faint high pitch sound (11KHz) when the car is idling and radio is off. With the radio at Vol 3 or above, or if the car is moving, it is not noticeable.
Then again, if a tree fell in the Forester (or on the Forester), one is NOT likely to hear it due to the general cacophony inside the cabin.
I have pictures of the entire installation, and will post them in a couple of days. You can email me at samiam_68@yahoo.com with questions or if you'd like to order one. I will have an updated post in a day or two.
The thermosensor is mounted only about 3/4 inch deep inside the tube. I personally don't want to try pulling it out - sensors are usually very fragile. If I break it, I'm sure the warranty won't cover it, and I'm pretty sure it won't be cheap to replace, as the whole tube assembly is one piece.
Even if it were possible to pull it out further, I doubt it would react to temp changes much faster, since it would still sit inside the dash behind the little "grille", not in the cabin.
Map lights work fine but the clock next to it is out. No display at all. Does it run off a battery? If so, how do I access and replace it? How do I fix? Thanks for your help.
I wonder if it would be possible to use existing airflow in the HVAC system to pull air through the tube? (thus avoiding the need for the extra fan) If any part of the inflow duct is accessible, you should be able to tap into it with some tubing and connect it to the temperature sensor tube. Low pressure in the inflow will pull air through the temp sensor tube. In fact, that's how the system on my LL Bean Outback works, though it's all transparent (integrated into the control unit).
c_hunter: I think that's the general idea behind making these things work, but, apparently, it doesn't really work in the Forester - I don't think there's enough of a venturi effect in the tube to draw in any singnificant amount of air.
Now I have to wonder: are the changes in the '05 Foresters' climate controls (as seen by Bob - and missed by me! - at the Philly Flower Show) merely in the switchgear or in the sensor as well? If the former, then you may have an audience of '05 owners as well.
problem seems fairly common, fortunately, it's really easy to replace. Just pry out the bezel, and replace. Find a used one at a salvage yard. HTH, Owen
thank you, this is well done and documented! I'd just ask have you tried to use the CCS without the dash panel? Perhaps, the sensor gets some airflow also in this case. Maybe then a few big holes in the panel would be enough? What changes if the sensor is removed? Anyway, I'd buy such a kit!
Dnestr - I don't think drilling holes in the dash would be very pleasing to the eye. But, you're welcome to try it on your car :-)
BTW, I have four persons interested in the kit at this time. If anyone else would like one, please send me an email - samiam_68@yahoo.com. If I get ten or more, I will start making these kits.
P.S. - My engineer friend pointed out that I should include a fuse with the kit - I will splice an inline fuse into the (+) wire (not shown in the pics).
Comments
The back seat windows only go down about 3/4 however. All are tinted and haven't been bothered by how far the window rolls down.
Gene
Robert - If you look up toward the top of the clutch pedal, you'll see the spring. Lube that up with lithium grease and that should work.
If it still squeaks, it could be the clutch slave cylinder or throw-out bearing. Hopefully, it's only the pedal spring.
-Dennis
-Dave
Mike
-Frank P.
-juice
Hope this helps.
-juice
Saturday, all the lights came on, but it just did not seem to be cranking much. I tried again a minute later, and it was fine. I used it Saturday, starting it several times with no problem.
Does this sound like the starter might be going bad? If it is, what can I expect to spend on repair/replacement?
-Steven-
-Frank P.
Could also be condenstation in the gas. Kate tried some DryGas and it helped her. In general try not to drive around with an empty tank all the time.
-juice
Feedback is welcome if anyone is interested. I will be posting detailed pics soon.
-mike
-juice
Ken
Craig
Sgt. Len, and Paisan thanks for the kudos. I was just joking around, people on here have been nothing but nice, it's a pleasure.
Joe
If you decide not to market it, then please post detailed specs and picture of how you did it so that I can replicate it.
Thanks!!
Elliot
-Frank P.
Thanks
Larry
Ken - Hobie Gary's fix??? :-)
I never fixed the problem on my 97 OBS (old Sube dealer). I nearly wore out my battery terminals resetting the ECU so much.
-Dennis
All of us that have the auto climate control paid dearly for it as part of our sticker price.
If Sam's fix works as good as we're all hoping, it would be a good thing for Subaru to sanction it as an aftermarket improvement, and perhaps even turn it into a retrofit kit for those of us so unhappy w/Hal overall.
I'm planning on installing whatever Sam comes up with, in fact had already decided to go with the external dash mount idea as soon as the weather got tolerable enough to work outside. A totally concealed fix is of course a much better idea.
I wonder if Subaru is doing something like this in the next model year Foresters? Didn't juice mention that the 2005 Foresters were going to get an improved climate control system?
Thanks for keeping after it Sam. I'm sure lots of us, even the lurkers, are following this with interest.
Larry
At least they're listening.
I do have a suggestion for folks not very tolerant of little nagging problems - in the future, avoid all v1.0 models, i.e. first year of production.
Yeah, yeah, look who's talking...
-juice
How does it work? I made some crude measurements, and figured out that the Climate Control System (CCS) was psychotic because it could not read the changes in cabin temperature fast enough. By the time a change registered, the cabin was either too hot or too cold. The the CCS would switch gears and the temp would swing in the opposite direction. This would continue ad infinitum.
The cause for this is the cabin temp sensor inside the dash by the ignition key. The sensor sits inside a hollow tube, but there is no airflow through the tube. It takes a long time for the cabin air to make its way inside the tube to affect the sensor.
The solution, apperently, is to force cabin air over the sensor so that the entire CCS reacts quickly and adjusts the temperature within a range of 1-3 degrees instead of 7-12 degrees which I measured initially.
I installed a tiny electric fan into the tube, and that did the trick. The hard part was finding such a miniature component (17mm diameter), and wiring it up with voltage drops so that the car's fluctuating (11.7V - 14.8V) electrical system doesn't fry it.
The installation is a breeze. Two screws to remove the dash panel under the steering wheel. The Positive(+) has a blade connector and plugs into an available connector by the fuse box. Negative(-) attaches to an existing nut on a dash bracket mount (10mm socket needed). The fan slides into the tube and fits snug (I have to file down the casing to make it fit). The voltage drop box tucks behind the radio console. No cutting or splicing.
The results have exceeded my expectations. The only noticeable aspect is a slight noise from the tiny fan. The fan motor spins at 11K RPM. Since it's sitting inside a hollow tube which acts as a sound amplifier, you can hear a faint high pitch sound (11KHz) when the car is idling and radio is off. With the radio at Vol 3 or above, or if the car is moving, it is not noticeable.
Then again, if a tree fell in the Forester (or on the Forester), one is NOT likely to hear it due to the general cacophony inside the cabin.
I have pictures of the entire installation, and will post them in a couple of days. You can email me at samiam_68@yahoo.com with questions or if you'd like to order one. I will have an updated post in a day or two.
Regards,
Sam
Nice job. I love transparent home made kludges that fix major annoyances!
Would it have been possible to extend the thermocouple out further rather than direct air down the tube?
Ken
The thermosensor is mounted only about 3/4 inch deep inside the tube. I personally don't want to try pulling it out - sensors are usually very fragile. If I break it, I'm sure the warranty won't cover it, and I'm pretty sure it won't be cheap to replace, as the whole tube assembly is one piece.
Even if it were possible to pull it out further, I doubt it would react to temp changes much faster, since it would still sit inside the dash behind the little "grille", not in the cabin.
Sam
Craig
Click here
If the link doesn't work, type this in your browser:
http://www.geocities.com/samiam_68/SubaruCCS/SSC_Fix.htm
c_hunter:
I think that's the general idea behind making these things work, but, apparently, it doesn't really work in the Forester - I don't think there's enough of a venturi effect in the tube to draw in any singnificant amount of air.
Sam
Craig
Ken
-Brian
Now I have to wonder: are the changes in the '05 Foresters' climate controls (as seen by Bob - and missed by me! - at the Philly Flower Show) merely in the switchgear or in the sensor as well? If the former, then you may have an audience of '05 owners as well.
Ed
As soon as I saw where the sensor was, I was wondering why it wasn't in the center like the STi and other worldwide WRX's.
Keep an eye out for that for those that are going!
-Dennis
Sam: bravo, very well documented.
I hearby award you with "The OCD Club Mod of the Month". The text and circles were a particularly nice touch!
-juice
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14124
HTH, Owen
It's actually more of a support group for people who never think their car is clean enough.
-juice
Dnestr - I don't think drilling holes in the dash would be very pleasing to the eye. But, you're welcome to try it on your car :-)
BTW, I have four persons interested in the kit at this time. If anyone else would like one, please send me an email - samiam_68@yahoo.com. If I get ten or more, I will start making these kits.
P.S. - My engineer friend pointed out that I should include a fuse with the kit - I will splice an inline fuse into the (+) wire (not shown in the pics).