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some one said it may be vapor locked? but did not know how to fix it.
regards paul
Jerry
regards paul
I'll ask my mechanic to check that. Its been sitting for about 4 mos.
Jerry
Charlie
Steve
Must be that the 97 model year pump is just more expensive...
Any other ideas? thanks.
Any suggestions? :sick:
Thanks
Looks like my link on post #121 changed. Can't edit the link so here's the new one.
1999 Chevy Astro Van 4.3L
When I purchased this vehicle 1 year ago it always started up on the first crank. Didn't make a difference whether it was cold or hot.
I noticed that once this winter started (I live in Florida) and the weather was a little colder. It started to become just a little hard to start.
It would take two cranks, then three, four.
Finally i hit it with some car cleaner and it fired up.
I have been doing this for quite some time. Hit it with some carb cleaner and it fires up.
Note once it is started it runs great. No hesitation, vibration, nothing it runs great.
Now I have read that you need at least 65 PSI fuel pressure for this van to start, and no I have not run a fuel pressure test yet. ( I will definitely do this weekend).
I guess i should also mention that whether the engine is cold or hot i still have to hit it with some carb cleaner.
I also read that it could be the ECT sensor (coolant temp sensor). It said that if this sensor does not tell the ECM the engine is cold it won't pulse the injectors to start.
Now as of late I have had to give it more than normal squirt of carb cleaner to get it going.
Now my question is what do you think it could be.
Something inside me just can't believe it is the fuel pump. I say this because once it starts it runs great.
Either way I am not sure what it is.
Also I need some advice on changing the fuel filter.
In anticipation of having to do some work I did purchase a fuel filter and a rebuild kit for the fuel pump. (Much cheaper than buying a new fuel pump from Advance auto or Autozone)
While I started to change the fuel filter I noticed that the fuel lines were bolted into the fuel filter very tight.
So tight it seems to me that I would break the fuel line before it gave.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem also. I really want to change this filter but don't want to damage the fuel line trying to get the old filter out.
Anyway I hope someone can really help me.
I have a 97 Astro. My fuel pressure was around 57 or so while the engine was running. It would drop off to zero immediately after turning off the key. According to the book, the fuel pressure should drop off slowly after turning off the ignition. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator. I guess I had a 50/50 shot. That seemed to take care of both the fuel pressure, now 63 PSI, and the pressure dropping off slowly when shutting off the ignition. The pressure dropping immediately doesn't create any issues as far as engine starting or performance. I think more than anything it's an indication that there's an issue with the fuel system. As far as replacing the fuel filter, are you using two wrenches to loosen the nut? You should have one wrench on the fuel filter nut, and one on the line nut. Hold the fuel filter nut in place while loosening the line nut. Make sure you relieve the fuel pressure before you do this or be ready for a bit of a high pressure blast of fuel when the nut cracks loose. One more thing, Autozone has a tool rental program that allows you to basically purchase the tool and return it for a full refund within 90 days. I'm "renting' a code reader at the moment. Even if you don't have any codes, if you rent one of the better code readers you will be able to see the results of the output of most of the engine sensors including the O2 sensors. It might be worth a shot. Steve
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!
Replace cap and rotor.and plugs and wires if they haven't been changed in awhile. Let me know if this solves the problem
That sounds like the same issue a lot of us including me are having here. I have already replaced everything in the ignition system, checked the EGR valve, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injectors for leakage but I'm still having this issue so even though it seems like some sort of ignition problem, I have to believe that it is something other than ignition. I rented a code reader from AutoZone for free. The current readings I'm getting are related to certain O2 sensors. I'm debating weather or not to replace them at this point but if I want to drive the van it seems that I don't really have much of a choice.
The thing about getting information on the O2 sensors is that the vehicle has to run for about 5 minutes or so before you start getting feedback on the sensors. You said that if you hold down the accelerator, then you could keep it running although it backfires. My advice is to rent a code reader before you replace anything. You will probably get what I'm getting, "Multiple misfires in random cylinders" and it should narrow down which O2 sensor(s) is malfunctioning if any. Maybe that's the cause of the symptoms. Please let us know what you find either way. Thanks.
replace the cap and rotor..!! I dont care if it is 1 month old or 5 months old or 1 year old they go bad because of the place they are located on the engine
I went another round with the Astro today, and lost. I could not get it to start, no spark. I re-investigated a relay next to the fuel relay that looked like it might have cooked in the past, replaced it with a new one I had sitting around, and the damn van started. While it was running I wiggled the wire harness to this unnamed relay, it might be for the ac/heater blower, and the van stumbled a little. Then I closed the passenger door and it died. It would not start after that. It's too cold to work on it any more today, but I suspect the computer is not properly grounded? It is right there next to the passenger door hinge. I checked the resistance(s) of the coil, all 3 tests were nominal. I suppose I'll need to pull the computer out and see if there is some ground strap that I did not reinstall the last time I pulled it out. This van does not want to serve. The good news is that I think I have fixed all the fuel issues I was having. Now I just need to find this electrical bug.
In summary, I had the following failures in order of appearance. The first thing that happened in September (5 months ago) was I jump started the van, and melted the 4 prong connector behind the battery. I fixed it, then went on a long road trip. When I got back the van died. Basically no fuel pressure. I replaced the fuel filter, which was jammed with black flecks, and but that was not the problem. I had the dealer replace the fuel pump, but he did it incorrectly. I discovered later that the short (2" long) section of hose between the pump and the steel line had a hole in it. The dealer had reused the original hose on the new pump, and thus the new pump delivered fuel right back into the tank! It was also the source of the black flecks which jammed my fuel filter. I found that the electrical connector to the fuel relay was badly melted, and replaced it. It may have overheated from a fuel pump that was overworked. The last problem was an intermittent ignition control module which finally failed hard. None of these problems were detected by the computer, which is probably why so many shade tree mechanics like myself have such difficulty finding them. I do hope the Astro will ride for many more miles.
It just stalled and wouldn't start.
After towing it home, I couldn't hear the fuel pump engage at all.
So I dropped the tank, and rebuilt the pump. Low and behold she fired right up
As far as the the fuel filter, I cut the lines and used a fuel line repair kit, so i could install the the new filter.
I will say this much. This was no easy job. The bolts that the secure the fuel tank straps were rusted and would not bulge. Two of them would not budge. So I had to cut the straps.
Anyway I ordered new straps and am in the process now of cutting into the floor to install some new bolts.
Removing the fuel lines that run from the tank (Which are suppose to be quick connect) was very time consuming. There was a lot of rust buildup.
I am just happy there were no fuel leaks.
Anyway by tomorrow i will finally be finished and back on the road
But that trick saved my neighbor a tow with his Aerostar last summer.
Steve, visiting host
Did you find the answer to why your astro dous not have lights or fuel pump? Please reply, thanks.
The injectors made a huge difference. I'm definitely headed in the right direction. The issue I'm having now is that the catalytic converter and at least two O2 sensors are bad. The engine is running rich due to the inaccurate information being sent from the bad O2 sensors. You can actually hear the fuel-rich exhaust combust in the catalytic converter. It sounds like a loud one time knock (not engine ping) intermittently. I have a new catalytic converter and four new O2 sensors on order from AutoZone, a little over $300 total. I'm praying that this will be the final piece of the puzzle. I'll have another update after I get the new parts installed.
About 2 years ago my 2000 Safari started having all the problems described in the previous post here. Error code p300 random misfires.
Engine would act up when it was wet out rain and snow.
After a complete tuneup wires,cap,rotor,sparks fuel filter and a complete check of the fuel system and injectors it left my mechanic scratching his head.
Now for the clincher at the same time the engine problems started my turn signal switch started to act flakey the left momentary turn signal stopped working and when it was wet and cold the turn signal would work on and off depending on the weather conditions.
In my mind it was time to trade my van in and be done with it.
But I love this van and did not want to part with it.
So I started thinking could it be the turn signal switch causing a short to cars circuitry when it is wet out causing the misfires.
Would my mechanic think I was a total moron if I told him my theory.
Well I bought a new switch assembly cheap and had my mechanic put it in not telling him about my theory or telling him I was still having engine misfire problems.
Well it has been a year now without any engine problems in any kind of weather.
Runs like a champ.
Who would of thought!
9 months after I rebuild the fuel pump, it just died.
Was parked in front of real estate office paying rent, and that was all she wrote.
She cut off and I knew it was the fuel pump
Had it towed to the house. Could not here the pump when you turn key on.
I verified the pump was getting voltage.
Why oh why so many problems I hear about these van with bad fuel pumps
Well anyway ordered the entire assembly. later will order another one for backup.
Lets see what happens
Regarding fuel pressure I did have another no start issue when it got cold. I live in Florida and when it gets below 60 we consider it somewhat nippy. And so did the van. It would crank and crank just like my previous rain problem but it turned out the fuel pressure dropped to 45 and it just wasn't enough for it to start. Replaced the fuel pump and I was back in business. By the way I decided to cut a hole in the floor using a drill and tin snips so if I ever have to replace another pump it'll be a snap. I did read somewhere that fuel pressure has everything to do with these vans and I believe it. What was interesting was that when I initially tested the fuel pressure the manual says it should go between 55 and 61 psi. It did that at first, but dropped when I started cranking. Basically I was getting intermittant starts by cranking (less than 5 sec), coming off the starter for a split second and then cranking again. By the way, if your van doesn't start all the time due to fuel pressure I'd recommend starting with the fuel filter. After you change it see if you can blow air through it. That will tell you for sure if it was restricting your flow.
So you're all aware I did approach both no starts as an ignition problem. I did all the basics. Cap, roter, wires, plugs, coil and I ohmed out everything I could get a spec and my meter on. Of course I never got any codes to help me out. By the way I did replace the crank angle sensor also. I don't think now that it was necessary but I couldn't get any ohms and on the new one it read 4 so I thought it was bad. $65 down the toilet.
Lastly, on these vans if anyone encounters a weird pulsing electical problem where the battery light comes on intermittantly, change your alternator. After 1996 they upgraded the circuitry and after I changed mine that problem went bye bye.
Currently I'm at 270,000 miles and I'd like to see if I can get it over at least a 1/2 million.
thank you so much