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thank you
You might also want to check the fuel pressure. Don't know about the 94, but on my 97 the fuel connector is just left of the distributor cap. Look up the spec's for 94. 97 fuel pressure is around 58-63 psi. You can probably rent a pressure gauge for little to no cost.
I've seen posts in this forum indicating that the bulkhead connector (behind the battery) has 'melted' and/or folks have found corroded connections causing the symptom you described.
Brian
In case you don't have a repair manual here's some quick specs for you. According to my manual, the CMFI (Central Multiport Fuel Injection) system is used on all 4.3L V6 VIN W engines manufactured from 92 to 95. In 96 they switched over to the CSFI system. The CMFI system uses a single central fuel injector which feeds each cylinder through six separate tubes and poppit nozzles. The fuel pressure regulator is mounted directly on the fuel injection unit.
Fuel pressure:
Key ON, engine OFF - 58-64 psi
Engine running at idle - Pressure should DECREASE by 3 to 10 psi
Remember that low fuel pressure, does not necessarily indicate a bad fuel pump. It could indicate a bad fuel pressure regulator. In the 96 and up (CSFI) systems, it's not uncommon for the regulator to leak inside the intake manifold. A leaky regulator could lower your fuel pressure and make the engine run crappy, not to mention fuel could leak down the inside of the engine into the oil pan. Not good.
If you go to your local large chain auto parts store, they will usually check the codes for you for no charge. The check engine light doesn't necessarily have to be on. The computer will store the code(s) for a while but it would probably be better to have it checked while the light is on just in case.
My Astro has had the light come on once or twice and go away on its own. I know for a fact that it has intermittently low compression in cylinder #1. Probably a sticky valve. The only time the light has come on is when it's sat for a week or so without driving.
If you have a P0300 code, that's a random misfire. P0301 = cylinder 1 misfire, P0302 = cylinder 2 misfire. And so on, you get the idea.
Hope that helps.
The van has new fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, EGR valve (repeated DTC 32) and O2 Sensor. The van has 186k on the odometer with 150k on the engine. Fuel pressure also checks out, the spider is not that old and holds pressure well. There are no other codes.
I found her running very bad with regards power, she would take off ok but after she change into top gear she seems to lack in power, and also I have notice like a rattle or a kinda chain type noise when I go to excelerate with my foot right down on throttle ? As a result I am scared to push her to hard in case I cause more problems. I have just change the oil on her and put new oil filter on and also changed the trans fluid and put new air filter in, but till she is not running well at all, So at the weekend I got me mate to fit a new fuel filter on her hopeing that this will sort it out, but again she is just the same lacking in power???...............
So do any you guys have any idea as to what could be my problem with her?
I live in Belfast, Northern Ireland, and I get all my parts from a dealer in England, so I hope its not going to cost me the earth to fix
Thanks so much for you time in reading this for help!
John, Belfast, Ireland.
Brian,NY
Please help!
Johnny. :sick:
keep us posted mate,
Brian
Check you wires/coil/plugs- there could be carbon build up in the cap,, or wires that are not shielding the spark and arcing.
Brian
I had trouble with my distributor, timing on a '97. I replaced the timing chain, while in there checked to see that my crankshaft sprocket dot was lined up with my camshaft sprocket dot so my timing could be set. The #4 cyl will be at Top Dead Center now. And the rotor in the distributor will need to be facing the #4 terminal in the distributor cap.
Put a new crank position sensor on (if yours has one) because this can cause issues. The timing chain is a good thing to do just as wise general maintenance anyway. Don't want mine to grenade on me anyway. But I don't really think it's a timing/distributor issue. I suspect a tranny-electrical issue.
Hmmm... let us know what you find please.
park or nuetral,damnit i even went to clean out cat converter and found out it had all blown back into my late model muffler and ruined it.UR NOT GETTING OFF THAT EASY!! LOL another cause I've investigated is possible loose/worn distributer shaft bearings
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/aa011703b.htm
Let me know if you manage the repair-its past the mess level I want to deal with.">link title
distributor cap, rotor, distributor gear, and fuel pump. I bought the fuel pump online and it turned out to be a piece of crap. Too bad I threw the old one out it turns out there was nothing wrong with it. I had the hesitation problem which the distributor gear fixed. When I removed the distributor to change the gear i marked it so as to not mess up the timing but when i went to put it back in I noticed the marks I made wouldn't line up. I suppose that worn gear threw the timing slightly off because now it runs fine when it starts. Now as for the not starting in humid or rainy weather problem the trick is to remove the distributor cap and cover the screws holding the rotor down with some silicone. After doing the latest round of troubleshooting i noticed spark from the coil wire but no spark out of the cap to the plugs. I removed the cap again and i noticed some arc marks on the screws holding the rotor down so i screwed it down tightly and topped off the screws with some silicone. It's been raining for a few days here in San Diego and i have not had that problem again. In short new distributor gear equals no hesitation, more power and better gas mileage. Silicone on rotor screws equals starts. Hope this helps you.
thanks for the helpful information, I really appreciated the input,
B,
Ive replaced the plugs, wires, altenator, battery, entire distributor spindle (cap, module, rotor)
I know he replaced the fuel pump and egr valve before he parked in his yard 2 years ago, and he also had a bunch of other work done. A buddy of mine is trying to trouble shoot and said that maybe the TCC sensor or something can be making this happen.
Any ideas are greatly appreciated
Ted
Replacing the distributor with a $100 rebuilt unit from Advance Auto Parts has it running like it has never run for me. Other symptoms: Slight side to side movement of the distributor shaft, a corresponding wear mark in the cap that is 2-1/2 times the diameter of the contact on the rotor. A vibrating oil pressue needle.
This thing now performs well under all conditions and has never before been this smooth.
I have been having the exact same problem with my '00 Safari. Have you ever resolved this issue? If so how?
Thank you,
Leo