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Chevrolet Uplander Tires / Wheels



  • sparrowpisparrowpi Posts: 1
    My 08 Uplander has the Tire Monitor System readout and has consistantly given me either wrong info or no info. There will not be a pressure reading and it happens on all of the tires, not just one, as at first I thought it might be a bad sensor. Now, when I rotate the tires I cannot get the system to reset at all. Tried 6 times yesterday to recalibrate to no avail.
  • fscolesfscoles Posts: 9
    Ours is also an 08Uplander, and so far its TPMS display hasn't malfunctioned. Since yours is not working correctly and you cannot get it to reset using this procedure, if your odometer is less than 36,000miles (bumper-to-bumper GM warranty) or if you have GM-Certified-Used warranty remaining your dealer can repair it at no charge. Yesterday, I noticed that our Right-Rear (RR) and Left-Rear (LR) tire pressures read backwards on the display (not a big problem, probably they had programmed it that way last October when we purchased it used), so I used the above procedure for the first time and it worked fine. The display readouts agree with my mechanical tire gauges. On the 08 owner's manual page 5-62 there's an apparent mistake: "Activate TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing ..pressure for 5 secs OR until a horn chirp sounds. The chirp ..may take up to 30 secs to sound." GM can't mean this literally, because it took about 18 secs for my chirp to sound, and the tire would have been flat if I had released air for that long (Duh). I released air for only 5 secs (from 35 psi down to 29psi) and then it took over another 15 secs before the chip sounded. The person who wrote the procedure had probably never done it. When finished, I checked each tire that the display reported the positions correctly. Page 5-61 5. says "..The driver side turn signal lamp comes on." but I didn't see any lamps turn on.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    You're right - I don't remember the turn signal lamps coming on either - I just went by the horn chirp...mine only took a few seconds after the 5 seconds of letting air out though.

    I enjoy it when I find mistakes in the owner's manual because there are plenty of them in there - not just for the Uplander but for all the cars I've ever owned. Some owner's manuals are better than others. Some are just downright bad...I think the manual for my VUE is one of the most incorrect I've ever seen, mistakes all over the place. The best is the procedure to change the cabin air filter. The manual says that you have to disassemble the glove box and take out a bunch of stuff to get to it. In actuality its under the hood underneath a cover that has 5 or 6 easily removed clips holding it in. I'm glad I didn't take the glove box apart before I figured that one out. Go figure......
  • fscolesfscoles Posts: 9
    As for mistakes in manuals, the '95-96 Windstar Haynes aftermarket manual said to replace the rear bank spark plugs to first lower the engine for access, but simply removing the air filter parts (took only several extra minutes) gave access to the rear bank. I'm hoping to find an equally easy way with our '08 Uplander, because unbolting the top two engine supports and rocking the engine forward (suggested on this and other Uplander forums) sounds dangerous.
  • OH MY GOSH . . Is that right? :confuse:

    I looked at the front three that are SO easy to get at but have never removed that big black plastic cover to check the back ones.
    Hard to believe the motor would have to be tipped forward to replace the other three. :cry:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I haven't done our Uplander but I had to rock the motor forward on our Venture to replace the alternator. It actually sounds worse than it is. Its not a big deal. The key is to have a good ratcheting strap to pull it forward once everything is loosened up. Its kind of cool...the motor really doesn't move all that much (maybe 6 inches) but its just enough to let you get to what you're working on. I never would have gotten the alternator out of the Venture any other way without moving the motor as it was kind of like a puzzle even with the motor rotated forward. You had to drop it and turn it just right to get it squeeze through the small spot you had to work with.
  • I've been very frustrated with my Uplander since the get-go. We had a terrible time finding "the right size tires" last year, and I wasn't happy with what we ended up with. I don't have that heavy of a foot, but it seems that I spin out all too easily on the slightest bit of wet. I hope we can figure out something this year, with information from this forum and others, because one of these days all that slipping and sliding will get us killed. :-(

    We did finally find a used Astro AWD which is far superior in terms of space, power and close on mpg, but it isn't quite road-worthy yet. I wish GM would make a utilitarian kids-and-gear hauler, affordable and in diesel.
  • crisbcrisb Posts: 3
    I tried to get some info on using different sizes but the only choice is to use a 215/65/17 tire with a 6 bolt 17 inch rim. I emailed tire rack and they wouldnt even answer the emails. What a stupid size for a mini van. If it was at least a 5 bolt rim you might have had a selection.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239

    In my ICE/SNOW winter area, I visited 3 different tire sellers and each provided their estimates. For them, 17" - 6 bolt rims and rubber is easily available. For us, we went with "winter rubber" on different NEW steel rims - for my wife's 09 Montana van. Each tire seller provided their cost estimate within 24 hours.

    Details are:

    A - My local GM dealer. A little more expensive (say $20.00 / tire "more") but being done by a GM dealer, its entire vehicle warranty was retained.

    B - My local Canadian Tire store. Their prices for steel rims was slightly less expensive their GM dealer steel rims but I didn't like their recommended "lower rated" rubber. And, they didn't mention that special TPS valves stems would be needed.

    C - My local Auto mechanic. His prices was the best and he recommended higher quality rubber (when compared to GM dealer). And, he even provided a good "work around" - to eliminate the need to buy special TPS wireless valve stems. But, his work could void future GM warranty. re: Using non-GM / Delco items on the GM vehicle is a lawyers dream. re: stuck in courts for years.

    In the end, my wife & I decided to pick the "steel rims + rubber + TPS wireless valves stems" at our local GM dealer. And this spring, my local auto machanic will be hired to remove current winter rims/rubber and replace with original GM spring to fall months rims/rubber. And next late fall, my local auto mechanic can do the swap from GM summer to GM winter rims/rubber again. His rim re-mounting costs (even for TPS wireless valve stem hubs) are much less expensive then my local GM dealer.

    Long post short... Do visit your local GM dealer and decide if their GM / Delco recommendations is "cost comparable" to your non-GM auto shops as well. For us, going to our local GM dealer "for initital purchase" is worth it. Especially since our vehcle's factory warranty will be retained (since our vehicle has GM winter parts) as well.

    Hope this helps...

  • crisbcrisb Posts: 3
    have you got any prices and sizes/brands for the 3 quotes you got? thanks
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239

    Yes. I got price quotes from my local shop and from my local GM dealer. Do remember that "price quotes" do vary from region to region. Thus, do call a few auto shops in your specific. It only takes a 5 minute phone call - to chat with each auto shop....

    Unknown to me (and not told during my initial "price quote" gathering tasks), I also discovered my local GM dealer also stores my old summer rubber/rims during the winter for "free". They let some air out of each tire, wrap each tire with UV protection plastic wrap, label it good and store all 4 tires in large steel bins. In the spring (around April 10), I simply re-visit my local GM dealer, they remove my current "in use" winter rubber/rims from my mini-van, and they re-mount my currently being stored summer rubber/rims back on. And, their tire "seaonal exchange" tasks only costs $5 (for all 4 tires) "more" then my local auto shop. And best of all, I don't have to store my opposite season tires/rims at my house (that has limited storage space). Talk about a great "turn key" service from my local GM dealer as well...

    When chatting with your local auto shops &/or your local GM dealer, do ask if they provide opposite season tire storage services as well. For me, my local GM's "free service" is worth it... And being GM, their storage keeps my vehicle's & its tires warranty conditions non-arguementive as well.

    Hope this helps as well...

  • astra1astra1 Posts: 5
    Although you can changr the alternator on a Chevy Venture by ratcheting the motor forward, that is not necessary. It is easier to take the windshield wiper assembly out,and that way you don't take the chance of damageing the Pass. side motor mout, and by the way, it is quicker doing it this way. I have tried both ways. - Don
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 55
    I just replaced the original equipment spark plugs and wires on our '06 Uplander with 105,300 miles. The engine rolls forward quite easily, but holding it forward is the key to this procedure. I did not have a ratcheting strap available to roll the engine forward & hold it in position. I was, however, able to use a long pry-bar to move the engine forward and held it there with some heavy duty bailing wire. In order to have better access to the rear plugs, I removed the coil pack and mounting plate. Once those were out of the way, I could stand on a short step ladder and lean over the engine and get to the rear plugs. After new AC Delco Iridium plugs and Duralast wire set were in place, everything went back without any glitches, for less than $80.00. :)
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