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Chevrolet Corvette Electrical Problems



  • toml98toml98 Posts: 1
    Wanted to take 91 out yesterday but the battery was too low to start. Tried to jump off my Silverado, hooked up to the truck then the Vette, By mistake I reversed the connections on the Vette, I realized my mistake almost immediately and disconnected. The truck is fine but the Vette is electrically dead. Must be a fusible link somewhere. Has anyone made the same stupid mistake or have any ideas?

  • I suspect this isn't new to some.

    For about two months I have been experiencing a signal switch that malfunctions when turning right or left. The switch will either not go on at all or when on will just stop working even though the switch is still in the active position.

    Took it to the Chev dealer and they changed the signal multifunction switch on the steering column. Not three days later the same problem is still there.

    Anyone have any answers for a now invested $551.00?
  • 1991 Vette coupe digital speedo just flashes "SYS" now and again. Big ZERO displayed all the time when I'm driving, will not display your driving speed. Had the heater core replaced at the Radiator shop and speedometer hasn't worked after the heater core fix. The mechanic says he only worked on the passenger side components and doesn't know why this is doing this??? Does the computer have to be reset or something ? He did say he disconnected the battery before he started the R+R. Has us buffaloed! Replaced my battery also with no change. Please help! Dennis ( retired fire fighter )
  • If you park the car for lengthly periods, put the Transmission in reverse on manual transmissions, this will slow the battery drain.
  • I am new to this this site and a proud owner of a 99 corvette for the past year. The last 4 months at times vehicle will not start. Power generated although will not crank to turn engine over. I found the article from Dave157 regarding his 89 corvette. Is it possible that my 99 has the same problem(vats system).Please help and thank for any info.

  • i have a 2008 C6 that i sent to callaway for the conversion to 580hp
    all was well, but a few months ago, if i left the car in the garage for a week or so, the battery was dead. i put it on a battery tender and now it starts easily enough
    my concern is either the battery is defective, or callaway might have done something to the electrical system. since i can only get the car serviced in philly, because new york does not have a GM authorized callaway dealer, i am at their mercy. should i start with replacing the battery first before looking for electrical gremlins??
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, if you can pull the battery, most auto parts houses will 'load test' a battery. Their device actually puts a large load on the battery and sees how fast the voltage drops. This indicates how strong a battery is, much better than just a voltage check. For a voltage check, a fully charged battery should be at 12.6volts. This is, of course, at the battery terminals with the engine off.
  • From the Shade Tree Mechanic,

    The very first thing I do when I buy any vehicle is buy the real repair manual. (or if it's junker, the Haynes manual)

    The best money you can spend on your Corvette is owning the "official" repair manual. Even if you don't want to do the work yourself, you will know what is wrong and what work should be done.

    You don't have to be able to work on your Corvette yourself. Just being able to speak "mechanic" to the dealership? Will save you tons of money!

    And oddly, if you read the manual you will realize there is lot of stuff any body can do. Even if you don't understand the full inner workings of the vehicle.

    I've replaced a lot of things I never thought I could, just because I had instructions. Alternator, fuel pump, mass air sensor, distributor, etc. If I don't have to lift the engine or crawl under her, I CAN do it!

    But, even if you don't want to get your hands greasy and your knuckles busted you will save money! You can waltz right up to the mechanic and say, "Dude, my %*^&$ is bad. How much to replace that?"

    Money saved!
  • WwilltWwillt Posts: 8
    Sometimes when your car will not start then after 15min to hour it could be your ignition switch. Mine is a 94 vette and that what happen to me.
  • WwilltWwillt Posts: 8
    What was the difference between the 93 vette trans and the 94 transmission?
  • My 84 the tack does not work nor the overdrive. The rear hatch only works part time. Sounds like grounds to me but I don't know for sure. Any ideas would surly be appreated. Gary
  • WwilltWwillt Posts: 8
    First I will say I am not a expert. I own a 94 vette. You proably already know they had a lot of problems with the 84, being it was the first one with that new body style at the time. The tac are known for going out in the 4 generation vettes.
  • No I didn't know that they had a lot of problems. My first Vette. I would also like to know what to look for with the Overdrive.
  • WwilltWwillt Posts: 8
    I am not totaly sure about that. I have never had a problem with mine. There is a plug that connects to the trans on the bottom. It send the info to the trans tells it what to do. That might be the problem. The name of that switch fells me now but I am sure someone could tell you the name of it. Yeah industry wide people know the 84 had problems.
  • WwilltWwillt Posts: 8
    I would buy the top of the line battery for my vette Interstate makes a great battery. They put those in Ferraries. Or an optima battery. I had a die hard silver in my vette that thing died all the time. Some one once told me DieHard do just that die hard. Also I would lerry of anyone putting anything aftermarket in my car (radios and remote starter stuff) because once they start cutting wires watch out. Vettes, are unique cars not like most others always read instructions carefully before doing anything to a vette. My advice. I got several service manuals also. So always becareful. Also look for genuine parts too. You can buy stuff off Ebay Motors but look for authenic parts cause you can get taken.
  • I have an early 86 model and having issues with the security system. Intermittently I turn the key and get nothing, and "security" flashes on the center dash readout. I measured the resistance on the key (6.04kohm) and put in that resistance in the steering column. For months I thought that fixed it, now it is doing the same. I check the resistors and they are still in tact. I am told the security module sometimes does not pass the info to the computer. Any thoughts on how to bypass the module or other suggestions?
  • nautinauti Posts: 5
    Manual or automatic? My 95 had the same problem on occassion and I'd have to start it in 2nd gear. That worked for me maybe 3 or 4 times; came to find out my starter was going bad. I thought for sure it was a relay of some sort. Who knows. I contacted the previous owner and found out the starter had been replaced twice by him and another time by the dealership he purchased it from..
  • WwilltWwillt Posts: 8
    Have you had the ignition switch or check mine used to delay in starting for about ten or fiftheen minutes, then start. So I had an ignition switch replace. Also make sure you have a really good battery. I hate to name names but I will never buy a die hard again cause when they die they die hard.
  • bhill2bhill2 Posts: 1,817
    I am replying to the message that you posted 2+ years ago about your passenger side window quitting. I just developed exactly the same problem. I know mine is not a switch, because neither the driver's side switch nor the passenger's side switch makes the window work, and even opening the tonneau cover, which should also cause the window to go down, does so. Did you (or any other faithful reader) ever get the problem resolved?

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • rwturkrwturk Posts: 1
    My 2005 has just under 20K miles. Until 60 days ago, everything was fine. The car works fine, then occasionally when I exit and return, nothing works. I cannot open the doors and using the hidden key release, when I get in nothing is functioning. I have been towed to the dealer multiple times. The battery has been replaced (twice), the body control module was replaced, and now they are replacing the door control module (the name on that one may not be exactly right), but so far nothing works for more than a week or two. The dealership has been working with the GM Tech Center, but they really seem to be guessing. It's strange enough that the dealer doesn't even charge me for the work anymore since they are in the dark on the real cause. Anyone have any ideas or have heard of similar problems?
  • nautinauti Posts: 5 '95 just started that crap w/ the passenger window. years ago it would cut out from time to time..then it fixed itself so to speak for the past 4 or 5 years. just recently it started up again on one occasion then was fine and a month later it just quit working. had to take it apart to get it back up that day.. ran outa time and had to leave for work and since have not gotten back to pinpointing the problem. ...i feel like im rambling. lol. good night gang!
  • nautinauti Posts: 5
    I've not had one problem since i replaced the starter. Then again it's my baby and it doesnt get out of its safe and cozy little spot in the garage a whole lot ;)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If this is a manual transmission, in 2005 there was a big problem with draining the battery if the car was not placed in reverse before shutting it down.

    There is a 're-flash' of the computer that is supposed to stop this problem. Has this been done? With the amount of work done on your car, and this being a well-known problem with 2005 and early 2006 manuals, I sure would think your dealer would know about this and have done the reflash.

    Other than this, I don't have anything else. I've never read about a problem this bad. Has the new battery been tested? You could have gotten a bad battery, one with a bad cell, and it is not charging.
  • bhill2bhill2 Posts: 1,817
    Hoo boy. Mine fixed itself too, and I had hoped that was that. It sounds like it may come and go. We should share any future information that we get on this problem.

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • Help! I bought 2009 6 speed Corvette in October 2008. I drove it about 100 miles and then put it in my garage for the winter. This morning, 4/5/09, both doors unlocked, and my 6 year old daughter and I got in without a problem. But then I discovered not only that it wouldn't start, but the hood wouldn't unlatch. Then, to my horror, the doors wouldn't unlock for me or my daughter. Fighting a feeling of raw panic, I was about 10 seconds away from kicking out the windows, and then I remembered the manual targa top, through which I was able to get my daughter and myself out of the car.

    Please - how can I recharge the battery, if I can't get the hood to unlatch?

  • nautinauti Posts: 5
    Not familiar with the newer vettes..but I do know that all newer chevys are notorious for their batteries dying if vehicle is not at least started and ran for a few minutes every 2 weeks or so... Perhaps file a complaint at url : In the meantime.. Good Luck!! ;)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First, you need to read your manual. Whoever delivered the car to you should have also explained all the following to you.

    There are ways to enter and exit your Corvette when the battery is dead.

    Along the left side of drivers seat, and the right side of passenger seat are small levers which will manually open the doors from the inside.

    You have a regular 'key' which will open the rear hatch via a lock above the license plate. Then, there is a pull tab inside the hatch on the left wall which will open the driver door.

    Yes, Corvettes have a somewhat significant battery drain at all times. You did not drive the car for about 5-6 months. Especially if the battery was not fully charged when you shut it down, this might be 'normal' results - a dead battery. The battery could have been significantly discharged while new with doors being left open, many short drives around the lot, etc, etc, etc. And 100 miles might have never brought the battery up to full charge, especially if you only made short trips, left the doors open, etc, etc. And then you let it sit for 5-6 months. You did not leave the 'FOB' inside the car all this time, did you? This will really discharge the car, since the system thinks you are about to start the car and remains 'awake' all the time, with a significant power drain. When you park the car, move the FOB outside the car. I would recommend at least 10 feet or more. This should let the car go into sleep mode with minimum discharge. But the car is drawing some power all the time. The car has to be able to recognize when the FOB approaches the car within 3 feed in order to automatically unlock the doors, if locked. It then senses the FOB when inside. Also, by 2009, all Corvettes had Onstar as a standard feature, if you/dealer activated it (first year free, so it was probably activated), Onstar will query the car once a month to check the sensors, so the Onstar system remains 'awake' all the time. I receive an email each month which reports various status items on my car. This monthly query will pull some power.

    Overall, don't leave a modern car will a large set of electrical features for this long without running it. Or, remove the negative battery cable, or better still, put a trickle charger on the battery all the time when stored.

    Now, about the hood that won't open. This is a very unusal case. Are you SURE you are pulling on the latch inside the drivers footwell correctly?

    If it will not open, I would not want the car dragged out of my garage and loaded on a wrecker to be taken to the garage. But, with a manual tranny, you can at least get the tranny into neutal so the car will roll and can be pulled onto a truck.

    What I would do, is have the dealer send someone out that knows how to 'jump' the car from the bottom. The car can be jacked up on the right side and a charger or 'jump box' can be attached from the right under side to the positive terminal on the starter, and a ground somewhere under there. The car should then start. And then drive it to the dealer and let them try to get the hood open. I only hope they don't break something getting into it.

    Oh, and jacking up a Corvette is not an ordinary operation either. The jack has to be positioned in the correct place on the side of the car. If it is placed under the plastic painted side panels, which wrap around and under the car, the panel will definitely crack, and these are not easily repaired. Jack only on the open place on the bottom where the plastic, painted panel is not at.

    I don't see this as a 'failure' on the car. A lot of this you seem to be unaware of, but this is an electrically complicated auto, and should not be expected to be left for 5 months without being started or having a charger attached.

    Good luck. When you get into the car, I recommend a new battery, because this one being left deeply discharged for quite some time, will probably again quickly fail, even after being charged, causing future problems.

    Also, after a dead battery, the windows need to be 'indexed'. I'm leaving this item as something you can find in the owners manual and do. In general, read the manual, there is a world of info in there you need to know.
  • framboframbo Posts: 1
    Regarding the experience in the keyless vets where the doors let you in,but once inside the car wont start and the doors wont open. This also seems to happen with a dead fob-battery. That happened to me, but I did know about the emergency release knob. This initially triggered the alarm, but then the door opened. Moreover if it is just a dead battery in the fob, there is a slot in the glove compartment for the fob, which signals the transmitter even if the battery in the fob is dead. This worked fine for me and the car started.
    By the way, if the vet is running already and you let someone else drive it alone and you forget to give them the key and dont tell them about the emergency release they can get trapped as well. That is a lawsuit waiting to happen IMO, especially on an electric top convertible
  • Hi, I was wondering if you fixed your instrument lighting problem? I have exactly the same issue with my 87 convertible. I used to be able to lightly tap the dash and they would come back on. Now they are out all the time. Also when the background lights are not working the emergency flasher and bright light indicator stay on all the time. Like you in the right light I can see all the gauges functioning. My last attempt at repairing this problem I pulled the instrument cluster and replaced the 4 lights. Still have the same problem. Any advise from your experience? I would welcome thoughts from anyone else as well. PMG
  • I am working with my friend on his 2001 Corvette and there is a constant drain on the battery where after a couple of days the battery is dead. We have disconnected everything on the car but hear a click like a relay in the nose of the car every time we connect the battery up. We have pulled fuses on everything, one at a time but still get the clicking sound no matter what we do. It' not that easy to get at anything in front of the radiator to see what might be causing the problem. I know there are some knowedgeable guys out there that may be able to help. We would sure appreciate any help. Thank You
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