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Comments
You must cut into harness to find them. according to my sources these wires are arcing w/ each other & can cause ECM to go bad as mine did twice before I actually found the problem. Good luck!
fuel pressure should be 45 psi if no or lowpressure fuel pump relay 1st ,then check
crank sensor/ Check spark next if no spark check crank sensor then coil.
This is the best way to start your quest.Let me know how it goes & please don't just replace these parts really check them. Rick
Next check your crank sensor for continuity if no readings, replace.
You ssaid you replaced pcm. After you start it if it dies again it means the bad
splices shorted your new pcm. You can get another under parts warrenty.
I think thats about it for now. bmrjoyce
I can cross the terminals on the starter with a screwdriver and get it to start but nothing by using the key.
Had it towed to shop two days later. When it got off the tow truck it started up and ran fine, with no engine diagnostic codes stored; so I drove it home.
It ran fine around a month and the problem occurred again. This time it won't crank or start. With key in ignition turned to "off" the gear indicator lights will cycle through "P" "R" N" "D" "2" "1" continuously. With the key turned to "on" the gear indicator lights continue to cycle sequentially on and off, the gage/indicator lights with light and stay lit, the odometer with flash several times and then "no bus" will appear in the odometer.
Replaced the battery....no change. Saw prior posts about replacing the crankshaft position sensor and/or PCM, but don't want to proceed with those without a stronger indication they are actually a problem.....
Any suggestions?
did you replace the wires one at a time? Does it backfire? then your wires can be in the wrong place.
Check your coil. A coil can go bad at any time.
Hope this helps. please write back & let me know.
Selene
About 3 months ago, I overheated my battery on a 12 hour road trip and replaced it with a new maxx from the wal. 3 days ago i go to start it after a quick trip to a friends house and it won't turn over. Jump started fine. A short drive to wal-mart with my reciept and I left with a new replacement. About 10 hours later...Same problem...Won't turn over. Thought mayyybe I just got a bad battery. 1 year free replacement in hand I leave with another new battery. In an attempt to diagnose my problem, I started up with the new battery and completely disconnected it while running, rode home smoother than it has in a while( had it about 9 months now)
I am currently disconnecting my battery after I start up and leave it disconnected til the next time i need to start it but this is not something I can live with. Ideas on where to go next would be appreciated.
I have reason to believe something is either:
a) prematurely draining the amperage from my battery
b) overcharging the battery to failure
I've installed:new crank sensor-
ignition coil-
tested all the Relays/fuses-
new distributer cap- checked the wires-
brand new full charged battery-
I've had 3 Pro mechanics look at this with no luck~! & I've installed 3-
(count 'em 1,2,3 ! ECM's) from Auto Computer Exchange- they can't all be bad!
still- the same situation- turns over- no spark/no start
any help would be so welcome- I hate to have the Salvager tow it away- only 127k - all new brakes- etc-
Turn the ignition off. Press and hold the odometer/trip button while turning igntion to "on" without turning it to the "start" position. Continue to hold the button for 10 seconds...when you will see the odometer window display "CHEC". If there is a problem, a three digit code will appear.
And these 3 different codes came up 920, 921, 999 does anyone know what these codes mean?? And its a crank no start condition thats what I have also
It can be jump started. It has a new battery and alternator.
IMO, you are looking for a current draw of an amp or more if the battery is really discharging in a couple of days or less.
1. Did you check your fusable links? there is one that goes to the starting circuit, and if that goes then you have to get a new one or replace it with a new inline fuse or just bypass it.
2. Do you hear a click on that dual relay on the drivers side still when you try to crank it? If so get a little spool of wire - about 14-16 gauge 20 ft long (8 bucks at autozone) run it from where the smallest wire on your starter is into the cab to a momentary contact switch (starter button) and then to the battery. turn the key to run so everything comes on and hit the button, it should start right up.
if you want to do it the right way trace the small wire on the starter, and replace the entire wire with a new one, that takes a long time to do trying to make sure that you don't get wires mixed up.
I see now you posted this in dec of 07, but if you still have your dakota sittilg around, try it.
Bob
the_cokekidd
deliver the power to the starter. The dash lights going out and the clicking
sound (starter solenoid) indicates that a cell inside the battery is bad and
the battery should be replaced or at least substituted with another battery
for a retest.
cable from the battery to the engine block. On mine there are 3 wires going to
this ground (around the front of the intake manifold /A/C compressor unit.
However..the starter will not turn if the starter solenoid, (which connects
the battery to the actual starter motor armature brushes) is not functioning. The solenoid, when activated pulls in the battery-to starter motor contactor and the starter drive pinion that meshes with the ring gear on the "flywheel" in side the bell housing.
The solenoid gets it's its battery power from the contacts of the STARTER
MOTOR RELAY in the PDC (power distribution center) on the fender next
to the battery. If you see take the cover off, you should see a few relays and
some fuses. Look for the position of the starter motor relay (diagram on
inside of PDC cover.)
If you have a standard transmission the +12v flowpath logic is:
1. 10a fuse (PDC)
2. Ignition switch (start contacts)
3. Clutch safety switch (if standard transmission only) jumper on automatics
4. Engine starter motor relay (PDC)
5. Engine start solenoid (located on starter)
A blown 10a fuse, bad ignition switch contacts, clutch saftey switch (not on automatic), starter relay contacts, or the starter solenoid itself could be
the reason it is not starting.
Quickie troubleshooting:
You can bypass all this with a automotive 12-14guage jumper wire from the
battery + terminal to the starter solenoid terminal itself, but you need to crawl under the truck to try this. Make sure it is in NEUTRAL and real wheels jacked up so it cannot move on you and jack stands on the area underneath where you are working.
Using this method, if the starter starts to engage and sound like it's going
to crank the engine, it's the logic path ahead of the solenoid you need to
troubleshoot.
However..if the starter still appears dead..with this method..then it's either
the starter solenoid, the solenoid starter contactor or the starter brushes
themselves..In that case replace the starter.