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i found the blunt cut end to the factory installed wiring harness leading to the hitch.
but,i cant find where to attach the cut end to the main wiring harness.
if anyone knows where this is done,please let me know.
Then, yes, that wiring is for a camper add on or to put a plug in the bed for a 5th wheel trl.
To compare: My 496 (I refuse to go metric) pulls my 9500lb 5th wheel up a 6% or so hill around 45 mph. Maybe 50 if I push it and the hill is short. It's factory stock. And the Allison is a great transmission.
Is 6000lbs the trailer's GVW or is empty weight? Your truck will do fine with 6000lbs but not with 2 or 4 horses in the trailer. Your truck would be fine with a 2 horse pull trailer.
But "local" towing you should be okay. Max towing capacity should be found on the decal in the pillar of the drivers door
Back in the "olden days", I did the lift one tire off the ground: chalk mark on the drive shaft (flange bolt was convenient) and the lifted tire edge, then turn the wheel (counting the turns) until the shaft completes a full turn. Divide the number of wheel turns in half and convert to decimal.
The dealer print is very handy to reveal surprises in the form of unknown adds and deletes. Our sedan had been ordered with light duty front disks and side air bag delete. I was a bit disappointed, but it's a good thing to know. The Duramax had more stuff than I knew about, cool to know about.
Any suggestions?
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I spent quite some time today going through my 2003 GMC 2500HD truck trying to get an answer to this very question. And I think I've figured out why...
My truck has the plow prep package and the towing prep package. It also has dual batteries. I found that part of my dual battery setup connects an extra wire directly to stud 1 (not the fuse location, the actual stud below the plastic cover) that gives it power when the key is in the "on" position. This effectively makes stud 1 a switched power source.
If one were to put a fuse in the stud 1 spot, then it would make the trailer wire live all the time, but it would also feed power back into some portion of the dual battery setup as well, which I would think is bad... There has to be a reason for the switched source, and I assume that GM had a reason for making stud 1 switch that way.
I'm assuming this power feedback would cause some other things that are expected to be off when the key is off to stay on all the time...
And, if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense. Why would you want to charge the trailer battery without the truck running? You'd want the power switched so that your trailer can't drain your truck's batteries... However, you'd want to run off of the truck's power if and only if there's an "unlimited" source there. You wouldn't want to drain the truck's battery by running your trailer off just the truck battery. But running the trailer off the truck's alternator? That's a better idea. This adds more credence to the idea of only powering it when the truck is in the "on" position, because 99.9% of the time when the truck is in the "on" position, it's running...
I think if you checked your 12v wire in the trailer connector, you'll likely find that it is dead when the key is in the "off" or "accessory" positions, but is live when the key is in the "on" position... At least, I did...
Hope this helps.
-ET
If you DO NOT have dual batteries, then you have to put a fuse in "Stud 1" position in the fuse box under the hood. If you do have the dual battery setup, the trailer 12v constant *should* be switched without the fuse...
the 40 amp fuse in the Stud1 connector should go to the solid red wire (which was taped under the master cylinder?), which is the 12v constant to the trailer harness.
What you're looking for is a Red/Black (I think that's the right colors) wire that connects to stud 2. I believe that wire is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inside fender wall...
I get the locations of the two confused, because both are already hooked up on my truck. But one wire is taped under the master cylinder, and one is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the left inner fender wall. They are two different wires, with two different sized ends, and each will only properly fit on one stud or the other. I do know for a fact that the stud-1 wire is the trailer 12v constant wire, and the brake controller is the one that connects to stud-2...
Hope this helps...
You should note that in this picture, the wire "colors" are incorrect, but their positions are correct. This is standard 7 pin wiring. The Auxiliary pin in the middle is setup from the factory as the reverse light lead.
There are two wires under your hood that need to be hooked up. One of them powers the 12v port on the trailer connector, and the other is the power lead for the electric brake harness under the dash. I forget which wire is where, but one of them is taped on the firewall under the master cylinder and the other is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inner fender. They're two different sized wires, with different sized ends. One of them connects to "stud 1" and the other connects to "stud 2". The ends are sized to properly fit on only one of the studs each, so you can't mess it up... Finally, be sure that there is a 40a fuse in the "stud 1" location, and a 30a fuse in the "stud 2" location.
for a 2004, you should be pretty much plug-and-play to connect the electric brake controller in the cab. But once it's hooked up, verify VERIFY VERIFY that all lights work properly on the trailer, and that the trailer brakes don't lock up when you turn on the headlights. Some Chevy/GMC harnesses under the dash are incorrect and lock up the trailer brakes when the headlights are turned on. If this happens to you, I hear it's just cutting and switching two wires around, but I don't have the details on that...
So, it's definitely not going to be a 5 minute install, but if you spend some time researching the points I've made here before you go hooking up wires, it can be a 30 minute install including testing...
Hope this helps..
Thanks
Here's the link for the Silverado: http://www.chevrolet.com/assets/pdf/owners/manuals/2009/2009_chevrolet_silverado- _owners.pdf
Another item that is of the utmost importance is the hitch and ball rating as well. Seen too many people bolt on a hitch to the bumper and then try and pull huge trailers.
Thanks
Where is the fuse that controls the trailer harness???? I've checked all fuse blocks and can't find anything. Is there an inline somewhere?
Thanks,
ArtM7,