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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions 2007 and newer



  • brokenjeepbrokenjeep Posts: 9
    yes the JK 2007-2008-2009 all have the death wobble. I have been trying to see if it is certain models (X-Sahara-Rubicon) or just all of them. Chrystler claims it is the steering stabalizer that is the issue. From what I hear all the stabalizer does is mask an issue? I have an 07 Sahara Unlimited and have been dealing with this issue for 7 months.
  • Yes, I have a 2007 4dr jeep wrangler saharah 4x4. It is in the shop today for the 9th day I had some stabilizer leak and teeth were missing from my pumpkin ring in my rearend??? They had to order the part from out of state(i'm in Texas) and have been in a PT cruiser rental :cry: I drove the rental less than 20 miles and woke up the next morning and the tire was low put air in it, took it back to the dealership to have repaired, and had to buy a brand new tire for the rental at the tune of $100.00 when the nail was most likely there when I had to drive the dealer's rental. I am livid first they have my jeep for almost two weeks and they had the nerve to charge me $20.00 labor to put a brand new tire on THIER CAR!! The dealerships name is:DEERBROOK FOREST CHYRSLER JEEP In Kingwood,Texas
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Consider writing up a report in our Dealer Ratings and Reviews.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I have a 2008 Wrangler rubicon unlimited and have been having the exact same experience. I have had it in the shop 5 times on this and the dealership finally told me that I would have to find another service center tand that they could no longer help me on it!

    Clearly this is a defect in the product that Jeep has not figured out yet.

    Good luck!
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    My 2006 Jeep Wrangler X had to have the Rotors replaced about 1 wk after I drove it off the lot. They said it may be part of a bad "batch". After 2 years I had to have them replaced again. Not under warranty the second they say. I have owned all types of vehicles and NEVER had to replace Rotors this often. It is definitely a problem at the factory and not due to normal wear and tear. Never abused it or even had it off road YET. I only have 21,000 mi. on it now and I figured that if they go bad with normal driving I would have to replace them every week if I took it off-road.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Ditch factory pads/rotors.

    EBC Yellowstuff brakepads will be all the pad your TJ will need unless you really build up your Jeep.

  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Welcome to the club..check out my posts about my rotors on my 2006. The rotors were bad the day I drove it off the lot...not sure why they didn't notice it. Two weeks later they replaced them. About a year or so later they went "bad" again but I had to pay this time because the warranty had expired for the "new" rotors I had installed.
    For a vehicle that is meant to be driven "rough" it is a joke to have them go bad so often.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Again, why I went aftermarket on mine. :)

    If you run larger tires with a lift, the TJ brakes quickly become inadequate. Vanco makes a brake upgrade kit that uses dual piston calipers vs the single caliper on the TJ's. Better rotors and grippier pads, combined with that brake upgrade make for an incredible setup.

    Also note, if you ride your brakes a lot or tap them any time you need to slow down, you increase your chances of warping. I saw that a LOT on the California highway/parking lots. Yet I managed to get over 66,000 miles from stock Jeep brakes on my Grand Cherokee (WJ) when they were known to warp even easier than the TJ's will.

    Sure the brakes could be better, but driving habits will dictate SOME of it (though it doesn't really apply if they warp w/in 2 weeks of vehicle delivery).

  • This has happened to me 3 times...what a horrible feeling. I am taking it in tomorrow...did yours get fixed?
  • Second oil change. Valvoline dino out. Valvoline syn in (should I dope it with some group V only I know). Noticed tire feathering front to back. No authorized local dealer has a service writer or service person driving a wrangler. One dealership accused me of not rotating my huge mudders (stock rubi's) every 3k miles and I should expect that kind of wear. Warranty smarranty. Back to Screamin Lizard - immediate answer - alignment. Caster out, toe out - but the funny part is that there was no shimmy no pulling nothing not even when close to the rev limiter while taking a long banked interstate curve. Complete confidence. However, the cross camber, cross caster, and cross toe were all within specs.

    Ordered an aftermarket steering stabilizer and bracket from the 'Lizard as preventative maintenance. Almost got tboned on passenger side thankfully no passenger. Made it through the intersection before their brakes stopped them in the middle as seen in my rearview. Moving up the frame mounted step idea, leaving rubi rail on, to increase the side protection (airbags can only do so much). Was asking the 'Lizard to custom make some but investigating a frame mounted step now. Yes, I spent way too much time reading about the ins and outs of body/frame/combo rails. Want frame mounted and the body mount locations look good for now but want something soon. While better_half likes her H3 it really runs great now redline everywhere and smoother tires, the wrangler truly is an enjoyable sport car 4x4 and she wants to pry the key out of my hand every chance she can take.

    Rockhard cannister cover-didn't relocate. Mirror drain holes after second hand washing. Redline in dif's. Steering stabilizer coming. Steps coming. Should've been in Bridgeport yesterday-Oh well October then.
  • I too have the death wobble now.. I have a 2007 jk X with 31,000 miles
    first i thought it had something to do with my ABS brakes and the recalls they had for the computer software
    the first time Chrysler told me it was the tires with out even looking at it
    the second time they couldn't duplicate the problem
    I am now going on 6 times
    I fear bridges and tunnels because if it happens there I am certainly getting rear ended
    any suggestions on what to do after reading this forum it seems there is no solution
  • yes I have this problem too but I am now more concerned about y at 60-70 mph I hit a small bump in the road and the front end violently shakes and the wheels feel like they are coming off
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I too have the death wobble now..........................any suggestions on what to do after reading this forum it seems there is no solution

    Wranglers up the '06 sometimes have this problem too, and in those cases it's almost always a combination of worn steering joints and a suspension lift.

    However, from '07 onward it seems to have become a design issue occurring on even brand new vehicles. What makes it harder for the customer is that it doesn't occur on all vehicles, and even on those that suffer it doesn't occur consistently.

    AFAIK there's no official fix, but some people have had dealers fit aftermarket steering stabilizers under warranty, which is the route I'd follow if it were mine.
    Try to get a pair of the beefiest stabilizers installed that you can find, even if you have to pay for it yourself.
    It will mask rather than fix I'm afraid, but until Jeep publicly recognize the problem and design a fix it's the best I can offer.
    Personally, I think that Jeep will ignore it, just as they have with the leaking hardtop issue.
  • Hi, I have a 2007 Sahara.. I spent over 6 months dealing with Chrysler.. you need the 2010 stabilizer ONLY the 2010.... also I did get new tires... but seriously have them order the 2010 parts first ... so far have gone 10k and the issue seems ... to have stopped so far.
    To all who have this.... Chrysler IS AWARE of the Death Wobble.... their engineers know all about it and have NO IDEA what the issue is. The 2010 parts for the steering stabilizer seem to resolve the issue which was their hope. My jeep is the first with these parts to resolve the issue ... and so far so good. Forget going through customer service... waste of time and the speak little English... Call corporate office if necessary.
  • Crawled under a 2010 wrangler and saw the beefier stabilizer. Saw the redesigned bracket. Been told the stabilizer problem was at the other end as well as a beefier stabilizer. Before the looksee under the 2010 had the 'Lizard mount a terra flex shock with the relocation bracket ( a little bolt work).

    Rubi is first sfa and read before buying it and keep reading asking learning.

    Epilogue is the prologue.
    Continue reading only if bored. Bought a new jack w/jackstands for a van. Believe a petersens kit from pepboys years ago. Got a one year subscription to their mag. Got emails for dirt cheap mags (not full versions as in stores) but have been paid for with the 20% harbor freight coupons inside. Swimming with coupons.

    Three mags came yesterday. Petersen's 4Wheel & Off-Road December issue has a good Ford "DEATH WOBBLE" story in the Technical column by Rick Péwé. Seems to support a lot of what I have read and been told about sfa.

    As an aside the Motor Trend article liked the new 2010 4Runner. Test drove a 2009 before the Rubicon purchase. The Toyota did everything it was supposed to do but didn't like the mushy brake pedal, reminded me of those Ford vans (cure supposedly was to replace the master cylinder with a stronger truck model. Guess it was to keep from throwing passengers with a quick stop). 2009 Toyota seemed homogenized and tall and narrow. No regrets about the rubi and looking forward to custom frame mounted sliders/steps from the 'lizard.
  • kfudemkfudem Posts: 2
    This just started happening to me. It's happened two time in the last month and I have to say it's the most frightening thing ever. I have two kids and I'm scared to death to drive them in this car. It's happened on the freeway and on residential streets. So, it really doesn't make a difference what speed you are going.

    I noticed your post was in 2007. Can you tell me what ever happened with your situation? I have been reading tons of posts about this flaw and it doesn't look very promising as far as finding a quick fix....or any fix at all.

    Any suggestions you may have would be really helpful.
  • Yes, this is Kelly with the original post I took my Jeep in and they replaced parts on the front and the rear of my 2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahareh 4 door:
    My complaint was entered as: Customer states steering shakes excessively when hitting bumps
    The dealership replaced The Damper, steering
    Customer states loud clunk in rear end when shifting into drive after backing up
    Cause: Spider gears teeth broken and clutch noisy

    The dealership replaced the rear differential pumpkin assembly and bearing S. replaced fluids and added additives
    Parts included:
    Seal-Drive Pinion
    Bearing -Drive Pinion
    Bearing-Differential side
    Spacer-Drive Pinion Bearing
    Case Kit-Differential
    Bearing-Drive Pinion
    Adhessive-Stud and Bearing
    Trac-lock equipped
    Rear Disc BrakesEquipped-both sides
    Bearings, Pinion-All Axles-Replaced
    It took them 12 days and now it's making a clanging sound when I ecellerate????????????
    I am so frustrated Ihad a 2001 Jeep Wrangler and had no major problems
    I have had to replace the front brakes within 10 months and believe all these other issues were what caused my brakes to wear so fast, but had to pay another $300 again within a year on front brakes and $359. for the back. The Dealership I brought the Jeep to was in Kingwood, Texas and because I bought an extended Warrenty I got a free rental that I drove off the lot with then every morning tire was low so i put air in then brought it back to them to fix and I had to buy a $100. tire because there was a nail in the side (which was miost likely there when I rented) they also charged me $20. labor to put a new tire on their PT cruiser even though if I had been in my realitivly new Jeep it would have been covered cuz I purchased the road hazard warrenty they PUSH on you when buying tires even though apparently they don't find it nessasary on their own vehicles :sick: :cry: :mad: :lemon: DEERBROOK FOREST JEEP
  • kfudemkfudem Posts: 2
    Kelly, thank you for your response. I'm currently waiting for Chrysler to call me back to see what they are going to do. I too have owned Jeeps in the past and have NEVER had any problems. Glad everything worked out for you in the end.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I purchased the road hazard warrenty they PUSH on you when buying tires even though apparently they don't find it nessasary on their own vehicles

    Why would they go to the expense of buying it for their own vehicles when they can get the customer to pay for any tire damage?

    As the economy gets tougher some businesses will reduce spending on items that they believe will reduce their profits.
    Other businesses will increase spending on the same items, believing that an increase in happy customers will add to their profits.

    I believe your dealer falls into the first group. :(
  • I had the 'lizard install the woods relocation bracket and the beefier stabilizer on our non-lifted wrangler(for now). I jumped the gun. I was the first person to try and do that there. Oh well back to factory for now but that bracket will stay on for later use. Just happen to click on the other thread first and caught the end of the steering info from mac and eric. Understand a lot more about the wrangler and like it even more and need to get my tools ready.
  • For EVERYONE with 2007 Jeep with the DEATH WOBBLE....I spent 6 months or more on this.. went to the top of the HEAP at Chrysler... YOU NEED THE 2010 stabilizer parts. I did get new tires too...but honestly it is debatable if they were needed. No matter what they try it will not work... so just have dealer ship order those. So far now 15,000 miles i have gone with new parts and NO issues.
  • fair09fair09 Posts: 1
    My Jeep does the exact same thing when it's in first gear. I took it to a Jeep Service Center they drove it around and Nothing! They said that they couldn't find anything. Two days later it happened again. I have had manuals all my life this is fairly a new 2008 model. I don't know what to do. Maybe we should all write to Jeep there has to be some sort of recall.
  • Man, sure wish I had read this a few weeks ago. I just had the same problem, what a scary thing. I had a problem about a month ago, was stranded in Bakersfield for a night as they replaced a speed sensor when two lights came on my dash. Then two weeks later the shaking started. First thought it was the freeway then it happen a week later then a few days later of course when I was quite a ways from home. Found a Jeep dealer and they told me what it was but they didn't have the part. Said it was ok to drive home but take it to my home dealer ASAP. Did that and they did replace the steering stablizer. Now a week later my OBD light came on so its going back to the dealer again on Friday. I have a 2007 Wrangler Sahara 4-door. My third jeep but first wrangler. Never had any problems with my Cherokee's. Not too happy right now, only have 15,000 miles on it. Starting to wonder if this was a good choice or not being that I drive long distant alone alot and really need a dependable car. Not looking like this has been a problem that is being fixed. Any thoughts or anyone else changing their minds on this car?
  • 7500 miles and replaced the transfer case fluid with redline. But also just filled the tank and added the usual dose of redline to the gas. Just coincidence or what, I don't know but the rubicon is running better than ever. If it's the redline then I'll investigate the torque converter (for any aftermaket that will produce gains) and move the change all tranny fluid up on the list of things to do.
  • Just replaced 6 month old new style hood latches with the same part no listed in the tsb for $9. A few weeks ago traveled against the wind to OK and passing trucks had hood flutter. The next day again against a south wind, after better_half reclined to try and get some rest and while passing a truck, heard that horrible bang bang. Guess being an oldtimer was shocked but no pucker of the derriere.

    Yesterday, bought the daystars from the four wheel parts store nearby. Ignored their instruction sheets to remove the latches and break apart in a vise. Just carefully hack sawed off the passenger side lower pin at the front and popped the rest of the pin out towards the back. New pin bigger than hole in the bracket. Called the store about return and they also had me call daystar. At the store I offered the clerk to see what I was telling them. Got my refund.

    Several ideas on the net about these darn latches-just give us a normal hood like everybody else has had for years. Hood flutter on our previa and one of our e150 vans was cured by turning those stupid plastic or rubber hood stops.

    Some say use the daystars (not for 09 or 10 yet), others use the cable tie over the weak rubber, and another says to remove the hood spring. Nobody ever posts why they did what they did. The spring wants to push up the hood the latch rubber bands want to hold it down and that little piece of rubber on the latch protects against hood metal meeting fender metal. I'll stick with the weak factory rubber, which might last longer, now that the hood spring is removed.
  • Finally found good googled hits about the mopar tranny, tc, and software. Spent quite a bit of time this week trying to get answers for another issue that developed on this recent TX-OK sprint.

    Trying to pass a truck (wish more people wouldn't ride the truck rear bumper but better yet pass that truck and quit riding along side them for miles), doing the 70 speed limit ( thankfully didn't have to respond to anybody that yes slow down and follow or take 10 miles by not exceeding the speed limit to pass a truck) punched the throttle and rpms go to 5500 then 5000 and nothing. What good was all that gas if the response was that bad. Did it drop to 2nd? Did the pressure in the tc get limited and wasted, did the clutch pack burn up, did the sw fail to unlock and and let the rpms pull with fourth at that speed was 3rd even necessary and 2nd would've been totally stupid.

    Years ago a post here and possibly by a woman seemed to be dismissed about not being able to back uphill with her jeep. I tried doing just that in the crd with the 545 after that post. I don't like to dismiss the internet as a bunch of idiots and that don't believe those internet idiots. Dex-cool, 5 speed automatics, etc.

    Posts here and elsewhere talk about this issue. In our 06 h3 at about 60 with a punch ours, confirmed by dealer heavy line mechanic thru obd, downshifts to 2nd per design - that is baloney design give me the old tranny from that deuce and a quarter or that 472 deville and keep your modern learning garbage.

    Mentioning that to a parts store manager his first thought was torque converter. Lost members looked to suncoast and trans go to fix their CRD. Never did that with our crd. modern diesel ptooey as the say about gassers. Think I remember a post from Caribou sometime back that Europe was loosing its' love affair with modern diesels - fuel, high pressure pumps, or cheap parts - why don't know.

    Talked to a famous Ft. Worth high performance shop owner who said it wasn't the torque converter or transmission and that I didn't know what it was (and presumedly what I was talking about). Got their tranny rebuilder's name west of Ft. Worth. Told him my story including the crd getting the wrangler diesel tc - all you get is stronger spring for the clutch pack. lost members still go to suncoast. He said it wasn't my tc and goodby I have another call coming in. And keep getting that it is a brick going down the highway-baloney again. Both conversion vans e-150's one with the 351 and one with the 5.4 (speed limited), when at speed took that throttle to keep up with the herd.
  • 07jeep07jeep Posts: 1
    Same problem and need help in what to do.
  • Found the newer-style frameless wiper blades for the JK generation of the Jeep Wrangler. After doing a lot of searching I found that the 'Trico Neoform Beam Blades' have a option that fits the Jeep wiper arms and the JK windshield. They're not 15" but they're 14" (the 1/2" difference on each side isn't noticable). They wipe excellent and are quiet - like them better than the old-school framed wipers. Came with removal and replacement instructions - easy install. Got them online.
  • Shauna,

    I have a Jeep Wrangler 2008 and have had the same problem. It started about 35,000 miles so I guess I consider myself lucky?

    I have had endless conversations with Chrysler Senior Resolutions and my local dealer. They have replaced my transmission twice and have now determined that there is a synchronization problem between 1st and 2nd. As of the writing of this they are creating a technical service bulletin for the problem which should be out in the next 2 weeks. They assure me that the steps are being taken to make the parts to solve this problem, they don't exist at this point. As soon as the parts are manufactured they believe it will solve the problem.

    Keep your figures crossed. I'm remaining optimistic this will work.

  • My 2007 4-door Sahara started "Death Wobble' at 22,000 miles. The dealer(s) have had it back 5 times! They have replaced the: Tires, shocks, ball joints, steering stabilizer three times, and now the control arms. GUESS what - it did it again yesterday! What makes this horrible is my wife drives this jeep with my kids in it all the time and when it happens you think your dead! We work on jeeps all the time, rock crawlers etc... They need to go to a dual steering stabilizer but they don't make one yet. The engineers in Detroit know about this, the head of Quality Control knows about this and I am getting back with them today to let them know it happened again. I now have 35,000 miles and I have just a little bit of time left to declair it a LEMON!!!! I hate to do it, but they have no solution yet. I am at my wits end! :mad:
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