Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
When I had my Avalon the dealer tried to get me to replace my front brakes at every oil change over 20K. I got rid of it (lease ended) at 35K on those same brakes.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Your dealer isn't trying to screw you any more than the McDonald's guy asking if you want fries with your order.
I also have NEVER changed out PS fluid on any vechicle and not once have I had any steering pump/rack problems. (Aside from a pump seal on a brand new 03 Avalon)
The other two things could have some benefit, but not what I mentioned.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
A/C has a lubricants pkg in it that wears out just like all lubricants. Also, most systems have pinhole leaks and seals that leak slightly. Every auto parts store sells a top off kit.
Power steering fluid is also a subject to break down. A high pressure power steering system such as Ford uses will break down sooner but they all will need changing around 100,000 miles.
The key here is engine hours and climate. If you live in very hot or very cold your car needs maintenance sooner normal. If you have heavy stop and go traffic your car will need maintenance (60,000 miles of stop and go requires the engine to be on MUCH longer than 60,000 miles of highway).
The throttle body cleaning depends on the quality of fuel you buy. Always getting the cheapest? Plan on a throttle body cleaning. If you buy Tier 1 fuels and put some fuel system cleaner in the last tank of gas before an oil change then you almost certainly don't need it.
Changing the brake fluid every three years is pretty smart. Same thing for the transmission fluid (60,000 vs 100,000)
We're talking three years and who knows how many hours of engine use so none of what this dealer is recommending is out of line or "crazy."
With your line of thinking, I would change the 100K spark plugs in my Avalon at 30K (like we did in the 1960s), and expect the engine to perform better and last longer!
I have never read anything about "enhanced maintenance"in a Toyota owners manual, and they seem to be pretty thorough.
The maintenance schedule is required to keep the warranty on your vehicle, not to meet the vehicle maintenance needs. There is a huge difference.
What Toyota says is;
"
Import notices for special conditions
Driving conditions: The type and frequency of maintenance your Toyota requires depends on how you drive, as well as the environmental conditions in which you drive. Check with your Toyota dealer to schedule the appropriate level of service for your vehicle.
Special Operating Conditions: In addition to standard maintenance items, additional services should be performed on vehicles that are driven under certain conditions.
Specific conditions require specific services. Please refer to your vehicle's Owner's Manual, Owner's Manual Supplement or Scheduled Maintenance Guide for details.
Warranty: Repairs and adjustments to your vehicle caused by lack of proper maintenance are not covered under your new vehicle warranty. In addition, repairs and adjustments caused by improper maintenance or the use of fluids other than those specified in your Owner's Manual are not covered under your warranty."
The REQUIRED 60,000/72 month MAINTENANCE for warranty is :
Replace cabin air filter
Replace engine air filter
Replace engine oil and filter 1
Rotate tires
Inspect the following:
Automatic transmission fluid
Ball joints and dust covers
Brake lines and hoses
Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 4
Drive belts 5
Drive shaft boots
Engine coolant 3
Exhaust pipes and mountings
Front differential oil
Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
Fuel tank cap gasket
Radiator and condenser
Steering gear box
Steering linkage and boots
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:
Driving on Dirt Roads or Dusty Roads
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Applicable Footnotes:
1) Reset the oil replacement reminder light ("MAINT REQD") or the message "OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED" on the multi-information display after engine oil replacement.
3) Refer to "Engine Coolant" in the "Explanation of Maintenance Items" section in the back of this guide for more information.
4) Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout.
5) Initial inspection at 60,000 miles/72 months. Inspect every 15,000 miles/18 months thereafter.
This is just a philosophical discussion about how much money should be spent to keep a vehicle running properly under normal operating conditions. The original posted question did not mention anything out of the ordinary, just an owner who asked about a dealer wanting an extra $1000 or so from him. I still vote NO!
Cleaning a throttle body is necessary more often if you use cheap fuel but it can be necessary also as a function of time. Too soon on your car if it runs good and you buy decent gas... my opinions...... enjoy the Avalon.
Here is an article on when and why you should change your brake fluid...
http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm
Here is an article on when and why you should change your power steering fluid....
http://cars.cartalk.com/content/advice/powersteering.html
More articles...
http://cars.cartalk.com/content/advice/l
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
1) The replacement was specifically due to premature burnout, or shattering/melting of the halogen HIGH beam bulb. It made no mention of any remedy for the well-known premature HID low beam burnout problem.
2) The replacement was via a warranty extension, but it was only to 60,000, not 75,000 miles.
3) the replacement was specific, I believe, to the '08 model, not '08 - '10.
4) Obviously, since mine was done last month, there was no "Feb 22" release date.
Having replaced a total of 4 HID bulbs to date in my '08, I'd love to hear that this problem is formally being addressed. No one at the dealer could tell me if the new headlight assemblies they installed would also in some way address the HID low beam problem, which to date Toyota has not acknowledged. My experience was that my dealer was CLUELESS about this whole situation: I had to walk them through the entire process.
If you get any specifics, ideally in writing, from Toyota, or even just more information, please post it here! Thanks.
My daughter has a 1999 Toyota Solara - the AC runs great - never touched to date. With regards to brake fluid - contaminatiion darkens it.
Toyota builds a great product - isn't that part of the reason why we bought Avalons? Enhanced Maintenance - NO WAY!
I recently spent $350 for replacement low beams (these had the sometimes on, sometimes off issue common in a large number of these complaints). I do as much of my own mtce as possible, but these bulbs were almost impossible to get to. I intend to submit my paperwork for the low beam replacements and see what happens. If I get any additional information I will post here.
Maybe I did something wrong but it seemed no more difficult than replacing a bulb on a mini-van
Here is what I did (except I skipped disconnecting the battery);
disconnect battery
note the position "Lock ->" lettering on the outer cover for when you replace it
rotate the outer saucer dish size plastic cover until loose and remove it
rotate the connector until the spring tabs are loose and remove the connector
release the spring clips on both sides
note the position/orientation of the tabs on the bulb as you remove it
Install the new bulb making sure it's seated
push spring clips back into place on both sides
reinstall connector making sure the friction tabs are engaged
turned on the lights to make sure they worked
reinstalled the outer cover
What model is your Avalon? The issues of difficult replacement under discussion here are exclusive to the HID headlights found only on the Limited.
What bulb are you referring to? The issue has never been difficulty replacing the High Beams (which also, unfortunately, as wwest has pointed out on this forum, function as the DRL's. That entails running them at substandard voltage, which in turn heads to excessive heat buildup and bulb shattering). Those are easy to replace.
The problem is replacing the HID low beams. While some have succeeded without doing this, the shop manual specifies dropping the front bumper to replace these bulbs. The "official" cost to replace a HID bulb is in the neighborhood of $400.
And, if you haven't been following this thread, if you have a Limited, and can show that your high beams have needed replacement, Toyota has agreed to replace the entire headlight assembly under an extended warranty. That's something on the order of a $2500 repair normally. See the posts up higher for the details.
In my opinion, Toyota has DROPPED THE BALL on the lo-beam issue by limiting the replacement to 75,000 miles. It is clearly a designed failure and should apply to all affected vehicles. I drive A LOT of miles and have replaced the lo-beams 3 times--the first time at 81K, so I have no recourse--despite my letter to Toyota CS!
It's a real piece of cake compared to a 2002 Dodge mini-van or most othe mini-vans I've had the misfortune to have to replace.
Why did the toyota people acknowledge this issue which is very abvious design issue. Is there anything we can do escalate the issue with toyota.
thanks
Toyota can't control they way you drive so everyone will have a different experience with their cars. If enough people have a problem that's a safety issue Toyota will do something. A bulb burning out isn't a safety issue or the LEO would have kept you from driving it.
HID bulbs need to stay on or stay off. They operate on a completely different method than an incandescent bulb. Switching between high and low beam isn't good for them. If you have a Limited, turn off the auto high/low switch mode to extend it's life.
Toyota sold you a pretty good car. It's not perfect and neither are you. The problem could be the car or it could be they way you are using it. Sometimes you just have to figure out for yourself where the problem is and find a way to live with it.
1. A bulb burning out IS a safety issue. That's why the police can pull you over and ticket you if that happens. And you seriously think that losing BOTH low beams within a few days of each other and trying to drive on just the feeble high beams is safe?
2. There is no "auto high/low switch" on a Limited. There is an Auto switch, which turns the low beams on based on prevailing darkness, and it is the preferred setting, since with the advent of DRL's, drivers are constantly driving without turning on their headlights, thinking the feeble DRL glow is their actual headlights. The high beams are activated only manually using the wiper stalk.
It is true that sticking strictly to manual use of the low beams would enhance bulb life--but that's laughable to have to consider, given that other manufacturers offer cars that can use Auto switching on headlights, and, HID or Halogen, keep them functional for 50, 75, or 100K miles. If you find a 1-2 year lifespan acceptable for an $800 set (Toyota's list price) of HID bulbs, you set your standards way too low.
3. Justifying mediocrity is not my style. If you suggest that leaving the headlights on Auto, and expecting them to survive for more than one to two years is unreasonable, then you probably are driving a '93 Chevy Geo Metro and are thinking "this ain't bad at all, I just have to live with it."
4. Five recalls in three years, three sets of HID bulbs, two sets of halogen high beams, a non functional rear sunscreen that dealer was unable to remedy (fuse has been pulled, so yes, I "live with it"), sure, that may meet your definition of "pretty good car." But I know I can do better next time
Could you elaborate on how you fixed the DRL low voltage problem. I recently purchased a 2009 Avalon and both high beam lights were shattered. Are the DRL lights wired separately from the headlights so it is just interrupting the circuit with another LED circuit? Thanks
If you are having issues with early failure of the HID low beams, there is a long running thread. See these posts:
822 843 845 848 853 862 877 879 882 886 888
for the details.
The question I have still not been able to get an answer to is whether the new headlight assemblies installed under the limited warranty for high beam failure will also in some way help with the HID low beam failure problem. I hope so, but I'm not optimistic.
You're more likely to get action that way than by lawsuit.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
I would like to know the Law Firm you are using, I will contact them also.
Thank You
What is different with the Touring model (with High Discharge Units), that is different with the others, making bulb replacement so expensive?
I've since purchased a 2011 Limited, (and just ordered a new 2013:))
Skip
Problem comes into play after the orignal warranty has expired. The extended service agreement excludes light assemblies.
See prior threads for detailed discussion of this issue: specifically, see my posts #879 and 898 above relating to the shattered high beam, and the prematurely dying low beam issues.
Unfortunately:
1) your HID headlights are about to burn out. The intermittent shutoff is the first symptom of what will soon be the premature demise of the HID bulbs.
2) this is NOT the problem that Toyota has agreed to fix ( and then, only if you're lucky enough to have less than 60K, or 72K miles on the car--different sources cite different mileage cutoffs). The problem that they will fix relates to shattering/melting/prematurely dying HIGH beam lights.
There's no doubt that there is an intrinsic flaw in the HID low beams on 2008 Avalons. That's compounded by Toyota's outrageous attempt to charge $600-$800 to replace the bulbs. Unfortunately, that has not been enough to convince Toyota to take any responsibility. Best solution is to buy the bulbs in the aftermarket (my advice stick to name brands, not the no-name cheapies) and either (if you're way more handy than I) install them yourself, or find someone other than the dealer to do it for you (I used a local body shop that charged me less than $100).
For excruciating details, see this series of earlier posts:
822 843 845 848 853 862 877 879 882 886 888