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Comments
She has an almost new set of Hakka's 205/65-15 from an older BMW.
The 2008 (for example) Mazda 3 used 15 inch wheels.
Will the 2008 Mazda 3 15 inch wheels fit on a 2010 Madza 3 S with the Hakkas mounted?
Using the
site indicates very little difference in size.
Best regards,
Shipo
The backs are cupped on the inside and I'm considering just swapping the back tires on the rims to put the cupping on the outside, where there is hardly any road contact due to the positive camber required on the rear tires.
Since the rears have so much positive camber, maybe I'll swap the rears on the rims to get the good tread on the inside where most of the contact is.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for any suggestions or advice.
Ernie
FWIW, I have a 2009 Mazda3 i that came with 205/50 R17 Goodyear Eagle RS-A that had such horrible reviews that I replaced them with a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires when the car h ad 714 miles on the clock. The good news (for me at least) is that the Michelins still look practically new after 20,000 miles. I don't know if my experience differs from yours due to the different tires, a different suspension setup on my model year of car, or both.
Keep us posted.
Best regards,
Shipo
I recently bought a 2007 Mazda3 hatchback (have wanted one for quite a while - what a great car, I'm loving it already!). I have a general tire question:
The tires are 205/50R17 Bridgestone, with max pressure rating of 51 psi. I see that Mazda recommends tire pressure of 32 psi, and that's about where they're set. (And the TPMS, which my car has, is set to around that same value I think),
This default pressure of 32 seems really low to me. In other cars, I've always preferred higher tire pressures, closer to the max rating; it gives a harsher ride, sharper steering, better mileage, and it's debatable whether it increases the wear on the tire.
Does anyone else here use higher tire pressures for normal driving? If so, what value are you using?
Ditto for my Mazda Protege5. The 32 pound setting gives a softer and less precise feeling to the ride. I would be cautious going much higher (i.e. in the 40's) for an extended period of time though.
Best regards,
Shipo
You're right on both counts: you should rotate your tires and regular tires should last longer than 10,000 miles or one year. Good luck with your next set (which I guess will not be Eagle RS-A tires). You may want to consider biting the bullet and getting a set of 4 new tires like Shipo did.
I have found them to be good handling and reasonable wearing tires.
Interesting. How many miles do your tires have? What size (e.g. 205/50/16) and speed rating (e.g. V rated) do they have?
Also have you had any problem with tire pressure problems. Looks like there was a possible issue in previous years...
Love the car otherwise...
Thanks!
Negative camber for good handling causes the problem! No solutions. Wish an energetic lawyer would find this issue!
My solution is to trade this tire eating monster off this weekend. A great, fun car to drive....but new tires every 12-15k miles isn't on my list.
Warn your friends!
I'm no longer a fan of Mazda, but in all fairness I have to say that tire wear has NOT been a problem with my Mazdaspeed 3; The OEM Bridgestones and the replacement Pirelli P Zero Nero M+S tires each lasted over 25,000 miles.
Wish an energetic lawyer would find this issue!
Ah yes, the jackpot theory of justice...
My solution is to trade this tire eating monster off this weekend. A great, fun car to drive....but new tires every 12-15k miles isn't on my list.
Let me get this straight; buying a new car and taking a several thousand dollar hit on depreciation is less expensive than buying new tires and finding out what is causing the excessive wear? If you say so...
Warn your friends!
Now that IS funny...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Let me get this straight; buying a new car and taking a several thousand dollar hit on depreciation is less expensive than buying new tires ...
I must agree the better solution may be a new set of tires; who knows you may love that "monster" again.
I strongly suspect that the OP simply wants a new car and the tire wear issue has become the justification for buying it.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
You read my mind!
Great minds think alike!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Are either the Pilots or Hankooks unidirectional (that is you cannot rotate them in a cross pattern only in a front to back and vice versa)?
I plan to replace the two more worn ones with Hankook Ventus's or Optimos, putting them on the back.
Once you do a tire rotation, they will be on the front.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiresB.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeC- ontact+DWS&partnum=05WR7ECDWSXL&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Maz- da&autoYear=2007&autoModel=MAZDA3%20s%204-Door&autoModClar=
http://www.goodyear.com/truck/pdf/radialretserv/Retread_S10_V.pdf
From the pics, it appears the inside edge of a tire has about 50% more rubber thickness than the center of the tire. I mostly just drive 40mph to work, lunch, and dinner with very little freeway driving. Traction is less probably but stopping at 40 mph should not be a problem.
Second, the source of the problem is the vehicle's alignment. So you need to get that addressed or the problem will continue.
Third, even if you get the alignment fixed, you can't add rubber back onto the tire, so you are looking at replacing the tires - and pretty soon.
The next time you bring your car in for service have the mechanic look at the tires. Generally speaking, tires are measured in several spots to determine an average depth. If the tires are still good, but wearning unevenly they will recommend an alignment. If the tire wear has exceeded the maximum allowable and the tire is 4/32" or less, you will be encouraged to replace your tires. Not to put a fine point on it: until you replace them, you are putting yourself and others at risk when you drive.
p.s. Remember to rotate your tires!
1/4 inch works out to 8/32 which is definitely good. Brand new summer tires are typically 10/32 so yours indicate minimal wear. I would keep monitoring and rotating the tires and you should be fine.
any tire dealer will tell me they need replacing right now
The way I see it is a good mechanic advises the client, it's up to the client if they follow the advice. My mechanic has been straight with me with his advice and I appreciate his "early warning" of upcoming issues so that I can plan my next step.
All the best!
BMW 540
FWIW, the current buzz is that the new Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires are both less expensive than the Michelins (a set of four can be had from TireRack for less than $500), and offer similar performance; I may take a look at them in a year or two when I need some new skins.
As for mixing different tires on your car, I did that one time, and never again. While many tires offer similar handling characteristicts and as such are probably acceptable for mixing (i.e a different set on the front versus the rear), in my case the car got so dodgey to handle that it was unsafe even when rolling in a straight line. My advice; don't do it, the life you save may be your own.
I know little about cars, tires, etc, so am asking here. Thank you in advance for your assistance. I had a really scary incident recently where I hydroplaned severely in medium to heavy rain on the freeway. I wasn't speeding, either. I have 61,000 miles on my original tires. My car is a 2004 Mazda 3i, four door sedan, with a 2.0L I4 engine. I've heard Michelin Hydroedge are good tires for wet conditions. What size should I buy?
As these are 6 year old tires with over 60K miles (100K kilometres) it's not surprising that you were hydroplaning; your tires may not have very much tread left on them. It's a wonder that your mechanic has not warned you about tires that are over 5 years old. On the other hand, you've done very well with these tires!
The Michelins are an excellent tire. The issue with Michelins is price, so you may want to hunt around for a good deal.
All the best!
I'm trying to find something that won't brake my Social Security payment---. When I go to the tire stores---being a female and a gray haired one, I'm not sure if they are taking me to the cleaners or not.
I want an all wx--Minnesota wx- with GOOD HANDLING in snow/ice---what do you recommend. I drive mostly freeway--about 20k /yr.
My tires on my previous Honda's would last for 50-60k. I would have bought another civi---but the seats were very uncomfortable.---not that I'm looking for a rocking chair mind you.
Is there a 50k-60k warrenty ususally with these ?
How is the road noise on these tires ?
I had to talk myself blue in the face before the dealer service finally admitted the car is actually DESIGNED like this. They set the angle of the rear tires "for more sporty handling", and this angle (the "camber") can not be adjusted to make the rear tires wear evenly, without using aftermarket parts... which the dealer said they won't pay for.
It just angers me so much that no one (at the dealer, or at the tire shop) mentioned that the car cannot actually be "aligned", and that spending $100 on "alignment" (without installing non-Mazda parts) has no chance of solving the issue... and that it took 3 years to figure out I'd been had.
On a new car's window, they put gas mileage, and an approximate fuel cost per year. THIS extra cost sure is a surprise to me; maybe when the engineers knowingly build a car in a manner that will make the customer buy $600 worth of tires every 17-20k, that information should be disclosed.
I threatened them with lemon law; I asked them to fix the problem, brought it back 3x. I had to go above the dealer to the regional service manager; now Mazda is finally going to cover SOME of the cost of having the aftermarket kit installed.
This is so completely annoying to me. I'd prefer if Mazda would just be honest and disclose the issue, let people decide what they want to live with. Don't BS me for years about the tires being the problem; don't tell me that spending money on alignment can fix it, when they KNOW it has been designed to wear tires like this.
At this point, I think I should have gone with a CIVIC, or a Toyota Matrix. Would I be about even in price, by now, I wonder...