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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)
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Comments
Don -- It's good to know that Subaru finally made it easier to access the oil filter. On my 98, you need to remove the entire bottom cover to get to it.
Ken
-mike
-mike
Wow, $150 for a windshield? I had the side glass replaced in an earlier vehicle about 7 years ago, and that cost $120 at the time, and side glass is tempered, not laminated, and much smaller. I guess this is a high priced area.
In the great scheme of things, losing a car is no big deal. One of many lessons learned that day.
Michael: If you're in a position to snap some photos of the piles of cars, we were pretty curious about what ultimately happened to it. It's a blue 2001 Forester L. Even just the location of the pile would help.
Sorry it took me so long to respond.
Joe
-Frank P.
Original equipment alarms are a good thing. We had after-market (Viper) and we had to disconnect the alarm before electric diagnostics could be run -- which was a pain in the be-hind. And just as painful was the dealer insisting that the alarm be disconnected and the people that installed it saying they didn't really have to disconnect it for the tests to be run.
One big item that I thought I had decided on but am now debating is whether to get a manual or automatic transmission. I have always driven manuals and prefer them especially with 4 cylinder engines. But I can't decide if this is the way to go. I am an aging (duh), but on the young side of baby-boomers. I/we also tend to keep cars 10+years. Should I go for the fun with the manual, or ? Your input would be greatly appreciated (but soon, since I need to let the dealer know tomorrow morning so he can begin the car search).
Thanks.
-Rod
Trailer towing question: I've never towed anything before, so I'm not really knowledgeable on hitches and trailers. I've looked at getting a Draw-Tite hitch for my 2002 Subaru Forest S (AT), and I found #36240 and a #36311 models on the Draw-Tite website. Class II hitches. The Class I option wouldn't pull anything for the Forester. Are these the correct hitches? If so, where did you buy yours, and what did it cost (installed or not)?
Thanks,
burnsmr4
My Forester's clutch and shifter have that typical Japanese silky feel and are easy to use. The shifter isn't the best I've encountered but modifiying it with one which has shorter throws, as some here have done, should help. I almost feel as if I'm driving a sports car because of the Forester's excellent handling.
So yes, I seriously recommend that you stay with a manual unless you've become one of those who have to talk on their cell phone, eat donuts and drink coffee all at the same time while you drive. *chuckles* ...in that case, you've probably drifted away from being a driving enthusiast anyway.
And be prepared when you are finally ready to take delivery of your new Forester as far as declining protection packages, etc. While completing your paper work in the finance office is when they will typically try to push those kinds of things into the deal. The finance guy is sometimes the dealership's biggest commission maker. Finance promotions, extended warrantys, protection packages and the like are typically the biggest mark-up items the dealer sells. These guys are sometimes more pushy and have better sales skills than the new car sales staff.
--'rocco
--'rocco
The Subaru hitch is class 1. I can't imagine how you'd put a class 2 on a Forester. The tow specs for the car are 200 lbs tongue weight, 2000 lbs total. In reality, you wouldn't want anything more than about 1000 lbs on the back of that car. Even with trailer brakes (required in NY over 1000 lbs) you'd really feel the trailer pushing on the car when going downhill. Remember that those specs aren't only for the hitch; they're also for the engine, tranny, suspension, and the metal that the hitch will bolt onto.
I had the hitch put on my former 2001 Forester L AT at the dealer as an afterthought for $450. I know that you can get it done for less in the real world. My brother put a class 1 on his '98 OB and it's a Draw-Tite. He's very pleased with it. I know a couple of other people who like their product. I noticed on Draw-Tite's web site that the class 1 Sportsframe hitch tows 2000 lbs/200 lbs tongue weight. The Subaru hitch is of a comparable design.
Hope that helps.
Subarus are only rated to tow Class I trailers, which is up to 2000 pounds. The '03 Forester with a manual tranny is rated to tow 2400 pounds.
A Class II trailer is rated to tow up to 3500 pounds.
Having said that, if you can get a Class II hitch for your Forester, so much the better. It will be a stronger hitch, than a Class I hitch.
Also, since you're a novice to towing, keep in mind if your trailer doesn't have brakes, Subarus are only rated to tow 1000 pounds. This info is in your owners manual.
Bob
Any additional info would be helpful.
Later,
burnsmr4
At the risk of confusing an already difficult decision (and starting an argument; not my intent), I'm not sure that I'd put a class 2 hitch on the car just because it's stronger. It's also heavier. Why add the weight if it doesn't afford you an actual increase in towing capacity?
I just tried the Draw-Tite site. You're right; it doesn't list a class one hitch. I guess that means you get the class 2 and make sure not to tow anything too heavy for the car, or you get the Subaru hitch for $250 or so, plus the cost of installation.
I see a class 2 hitch in your future...
-mike
When looking at the calendar today, I realized it's exactly 18 months since we purchased our Forester. The car (sorry, I've never named it!) has been in 14 of the 50 states here in the USA, and the odometer shows 34,783 miles. I do make a lot of road trips, and if you have an interest in old military bases you can check them out on my web site, www.airforcebase.net.
Problems? Well, I still need to roll up a towel and use it to get proper back support. And the cupholders tend to aircondition my coffee. But the Forester has never failed to start, and has never ceased to operate in an unplanned manner. In other words, it has never failed me. The air conditioner still makes a squeeling noise when the compressor kicks in, but it refuses to make that noise when I'm at the dealer.
Since we bought the Forester, I've added the upgraded speakers and tweeter kit (took about ten minutes to install). I've used opaque white tinting material to mask the upper edge of the windshield, to keep the sun from peeking in around the edges of the sun visors. I've added an aftermarket cup holder to the passenger side of the console (to keep my coffee away from the air conditioning here in TX). I've attached a piece of wood to the driver's side of the console, to rest my leg against (makes driving more comfortable for me). And on the dash, I've mounted brackets for two GPS units I use. At 30,000 miles, I replaced the original tires with Dunlop SP Sport A2s (and I recommend them).
All in all, I'm very pleased after a year and a half of Forester ownership.
Cheers,
Scott
Two GPS units???
-Dave
I see a fair number of Foresters here in Minnesota ... I've read (perhaps on this very board?) Subaru's AWD is more popular in snowier northern climes and that Subaru is the unofficial state car of Vermont.
That aside, what your question really gets at is "why isn't Subaru selling more Foresters?"
I think a lot of it boils down to the fact that "big is in" these days. People like even their small SUVs to look big.
Look at where the Forester is positioned in the small SUV market. It's competing with the Honda CR-V, Ford Escape, Toyota RAV4, Jeep Liberty and the like -- all of which present a more in-your-face appearance. Aggressive "look out or I'll run you over" snouts are very popular now (see Escape, Liberty). Also, the other SUVs have more of what the magazines like to call a "commanding view of the road," meaning you sit up higher.
But the Forester's low center of gravity is what helps give it its carlike handling and feel, which is partly what attracts me to it. Plus, I happen to like the Forester's classy understated styling.
The Forester might be more properly classified a wagon, but most wagon shoppers are likely to gravitate toward Subaru's Outback wagon, or VW's Passat. And the Forester is priced out of the league of many of the smaller wagons/hatchbacks (like the Focus).
But the most important thing in shopping for a car is whether it suits your needs. I think the Forester might be a great choice for me. The fact that it's not what "everyone else is driving" is just another plus in my book.
Now I just have to get out there and test-drive one!
-mike
-Rod
Welcome aboard! Unfortunately, the search function didn't get upgraded during the site's upgrade.
I'm sure that the wonderful regulars on the board will recall the discussion about hesitation and provide you with some answers.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Here in Maryland, trailers are not required by law to have brakes unless they're rated for 3000 pounds and up. Therefore, trying to find a Class I trailer with brakes is next to impossible. I suspect that this is the case most everywhere, except in NY, where trailers rated for over 1000 pounds are required to have brakes. I'm sure Paisan will either confirm or correct me on NY trailering laws.
Bob
-mike
Steve (I live a mile south of you, which is why I say y'all so much)
Good description of trailer brakes.
http://www.mbyc.net/Fleet59/Boat%20Towing%20Laws%20in%20California.htm
Towing laws on the west coast.
http://www.easternshoreoutfitters.com/marylandboattowinglaws.htm
Maryland towing laws.
-mike
Bob
http://www.boatus.com/towing/towlaw.htm
-mike
-mike
Shouldn't be any problem finding a Class I trailer there with brakes.
Bob
-mike
Bob
-mike
Bob
You do have to loosen the charcoal canister to get at one of the bolts on the passenger side, and remove the tie down brackets. Really easy, but wrestling with the frame hitch itself was a bit "physical". I'd recommend a helper to hold it in position until you get a bolt in on each side. Torque spec was 58 ft. lbs - included in the installation instructions.
We used the OEM light controller, purchased separately as a part from the dealer (the OEM hitch comes as a kit with the light controller), and the attached a Draw-Tite 4-pin to 7-in Barco adapter to support trailer brakes. I had our RV dealer install a Draw-Tite brake controller, and tie it into the 7-pin Barco connector, mostly for peace of mind and insurance purposes. No reason I couldn't have installed it myself. Make sure you get a 20amp self-resetting breaker in that circuit, and your ground is solid.
I liked having a beefier class II receiver - cost was a wash. We tow a mid-sized Coleman camper through the mountains, and have been impressed with the Forester's capabilities. Suffice it to say, it delivers as advertised. (That is, it's not a full-size pickup and we respect its limits fastidiously, but it's more than capable of doing what Subaru rates it for, power is never an issue, even at altitude).
Hope this helps.
-brianV
-mike
That limitation may explain why upgraded brakes are not part of the tow package.
Bob
The '03 sports an "all new" manual tranny (parts specifier's description, not mine), with a new pressure plate and clutch disk as well.
Since the '03 also has a stiffened unibody and beefier brakes, those might have been factors on the first gen as well, but I doubt it, since the overseas models have higher reported limits.
As to braked vs. unbraked trailer ratings, I thought we'd discussed this once before... even big trucks often have quite low "unbraked" limits, around 1500#'s or so...
I did, however, see a trailer-towing brochure put out by Ford, and there was mention of trailer brakes in there. I don't remember if they just "recommended" them or "required" them. In any case, Ford's position seems inconstant. Either you do, or you don't...
Bob
It is interesting that the '03 Forester 5-speed now has a higher tow rating than the automatic. That runs contrary to everything I've ever learned about towing.
Bob
I wonder how well the Hill Holder feature sells in San Fransisco? Maybe they order more manuals there because of demand?
I have the OE hitch and am happy with it. Same install procedure described above.
Congrats to Rod and Jeannine.
1000 miles is not too early to change your oil. Subaru does not use any special break in oil, in fact it's plain ol' Havoline. The OE filter is made by Purolator, so that's a good choice. I think they have an anti-drain back valve.
The C&D article was interesting, though the 0-60 number doesn't seem to add up. Maybe they did have a couple hundred pounds of ballast? Why would a lighter 5 speed with more torque be slower than the last automatic they tested?
Nice catch on the weight miscue, BTW.
They mentioned 1st and 2nd gears are a little shorter, so a shift to 3rd is required to reach 60mph (2nd redline at 52 or 52mph). But even the old one redlined in 2nd at about 59mph.
Did you guys notice the lateral Gs, though? 0.77, with the nearest competitor at a distant 0.71. Those 16" rims and tires make a world of difference.
I'm ready for the turbo, though, bring it on!
-juice
But maybe the 5 speed now gets that oil cooler?
-juice