In Front and Center of the Radiator,right behind the Grill. According to Spec, accuracy to 3%. So at 100 degrees it may indicate anywhere from 97 to 103.
im getting tinted on saturday in van nuys. guy i talked to on the phone said he does a couple dozen subies a year and so far no probs. unlike the german cars he said. ill report back but i doubt it will be bad news.
thanks to all for the feedback!
on a different note i was reading some of the waxing posts two nights ago and tonight i used some of the tips and did my first wax job on my forester. it was only a one step meguiars (sp?) after washing with a palmolivish agent and drying with the chamois (wow what a way to dry) but it looks really good. when it wanes i shall wax again...
and finally after about 2K the hill holder seems to be easing up a bit, whew.. i downshift some instead of braking, don't know if that had (has) anything to do with it
Take the vague SPEC anyway you want, for the US it states display in Fahrenheit, accuracy to 3%. Could be measured from Kelvin, which would be 273 + the Celsius conversion, or compared directly to Celsius. but since it simply was stated as above, I ASSUME (we know what that can mean), the accuracy was also in Fahrenheit. It works and gives me a GOOD idea of the outside temp. 3% is acceptable to me.
I think it's a cool feature, one my wife has on her 2002 Legacy L, but my Forester does not.
When you see the temp at 35 or cooler, you know things like bridges could be frozen over. That's handy because with AWD you may not slip, so the only way to know is to look at the gauge.
I've noticed that the external thermometer on my 2002 Forester S is relatively accurate once the car is rolling. +/- 3° F at any given time. Sometimes off by 5° F, but not often. I do notice that, when the temp rises above 100° F in the sun after sitting, the temp regulates relatively quickly. In my 1999 Mercury Cougar V-6, any temp above, say, 95° F would cause the external thermometer to go haywire and either get stuck at over 100° F or down at like 69° F. Dealer never could test a failure in the unit. Figures.
Nearing 10,000 miles and an average of 22mpg city/highway driving on my car during the past 15 gas station visits. One dent. One extra service visit (today) to resolve vibration in steering/front end (re-balanced all tires). Getting ready to switch over to synthetic oil next time 'round.
Mine does a pretty good job in the accuracy dept. Keep in mind that it will read on the high side if the vehicle has been parked in the sun or you're driving in stop and go traffic. It also reads several degrees higher than what they're reporting on the radio when I'm driving on the expressway but I'm pretty sure it's accurate since the reflected heat off the roadway along with the combined exhaust fumes from thousands of cars has got to raise the ambient temp near the road surface by a few degrees.
A buddy of mine bought the auto-dimming mirror with compass and temperature (same manufacturer as the stock one) for his 2000 Forester S. He placed the temperature monitor out by his grille and the readings have been quite accurate.
I noticed that Aussie-spec Foresters now use the 2.5 engine, instead of the old 2.0. So I find it interesting that folks (in the know, so to speak) in your country are predicting the 2.5 turbo, instead of the 2.0 turbo. If that's the case, I would think the same might hold true here, since we too use the 2.5 engine in the Forester.
When is Australia supposed to get the new turbo Forester? I know you are without that model at present.
I punctured the side wall of the tire (unrepairable) and now have been waiting a week for a tire to be shipped to (Portland, Or) I just happened to near home and so driving without a spare is ok. My concern is: if I had the family out on the road and this would have happened I would not be comfortable driving without a spare. The Yokohama dealer tells me that the tires are only released for emergency's but had to have one shipped out of CA. It is unacceptable for Subaru to be outfitting their new cars with a tire that is not available. Bob
Mine is 6°F higher when I compare it with a sign on the street. (my car's reading is 103 and the sign shown 97). BTW, my highest reading so far is 114 at Sacramento and the lowest is like 6 in Lake Tahoe
I was just joking concerning the accuracy (Fahrenheit vs. Kelvin). However, the purist in me cringes when a linear relationship is attached to an arbitrary fixed point. Who knows how the error really scales like with temperature, but I doubt very much the instrument is 100% accurate at the arbitrary point of 0F.
I also think that you can probably gauge the thermometer easily with a known temperature, after the car has been driven for a while (and not in stop-and-go traffic). The thermometer in my Passat (actually two, since I also have the climatronic) seems to provide good readings after 5 minutes or so. And the two thermometers agree to within about 0.5F (i.e., sometimes they show the same, sometimes they are off by one degree).
That's unfortunate that you had an unrepairable flat so early on. I'm glad Subaru is taking care of the spare.
The new G900 was designed for the Forester (much like the previous Geolandar H/T). I'm sure stores such as Tire Rack will be carrying them soon, but you do make a valid point that replacements should be available upon vehicle introduction.
How far did they raise the seats? I've seen a few '03 models on the highway and they look pretty much the same as the old ones. But today I was following one in traffic noticed how much higher the driver seemed. I wasn't looking down at him like I normally do (you know what I mean )
How high did they raise the seats? It really seems to make a difference.
I find the Outback thermometer is accurate within a degree or two Celsius. After the vehicle has been left for a time, it tends to read high for about five minutes after start up but then settles to stable.
Dietmar has spotted the better accuracy in the VW Passat. I was never sure where the sensor was fitted in my passat but, like him, I was impressed by the accuracy which was within half a degree Celsius.
Bob: maybe that tire is new, so it's not yet widely available?
If you can't find one, I'd replace the flat with the spare, and then buy a different Yokohama tire of the same size/specs to be my spare. Just check the load and speed ratings to make sure they are at least as good, even though it won't matter much on a temporary spare.
I've heard the seats are about an inch higher, but that may be at the top of their adjustment travel. The new seats are really nice and supportive, but it still isn't a sky view seat like some taller SUVs.
Besides, when you auto cross, it would feel too tipsy, right Ed?
(note: Ed is taking his Forester to NASA autocross on Sunday for the first time. Have fun bud!)
We went to Cloudcroft for a couple of days of mountain biking -- which, as they say, is a different story. But we camped at Pine Campground, on the north side of the village. We were the only ones there the first day, and pitched our tent at the far end in splendid isolation. But the second day, what to my wondering eyes did appear but a white 2002 Forester L! We drove up in our platinum silver 2002 L and had a chat -- with the people unloading the white Forester. They were from San Antonio, and this was their first long trip in their L. And they love it. And they cross-shopped the CRV, but CRV did not handle as well as a Forester, and once you buy a CRV with the stuff you get standard on a Forester...well, you just have to shake you head at the price. And Consumer Reports recommended the Forester. These were definitely Subaru people! I asked them if they did the Internet (I was going to mention Edmunds and this very board), and they said they used to -- lots of kids to e-mail -- but then they decided to spend the access fees on satellite TV instead.
So what do four Forester drivers talk about when they meet in the forest -- Foresters of course!
The other day, I got a flat tire and went to put the spare on. The only problem, no lug wrench! I looked through the owner manual and found no mention to the placement of a lug wrench. I found the jack and spare tire, but no lug nut wrench.
Does everyone else have this tool (maybe the dealer or Subaru forgot to include it)?
My '01 came with a lug wrench in the tool kit pouch, along with a torx wrench for the roof rack, a hex key for the moonroof (in case power fails or something goes wrong with the motor), and a reversible screwdriver. The pouch is stored with the spare.
Come to think of it, it's amazing how much stuff I can get under the floor...
To that I've added a pair of pliers, a triangle file, a small adjustable wrench and the key to my lug locks. The pliers can be used as a wire snips in a pinch (pun intended... ). That all fits in the tool pouch.
Tow rope, tire chains, a can of Heet, a can of Instaflat, fire extinguisher, first aid kit, jumper cables, tie downs, bungies, and a flashlight complete my "kit". Flares seemed like overkill...
that can't all possibly fit in the underfloor compartments. Did you remove the spare tire to fit all that in? I have about the same amount of stuff, but I'm using every compartment including the little container that goes inside the center of the spare, and even the space around the spare tire itself, and I still don't have enough space Where do you fit the fire extinguisher?
By the way, has anyone ever run wires from the roof to the engine compartment? I'm trying to figure out where to run the wires, I don't want them coming inside the sunroof because then it won't close properly because of the air deflector. I tried running them down the sunroof drains, but can't seem to find out where they come out. There's a space between the fender panel and the inside of the engine compartment that I just can't access, and i think it's coming out there.
I thought of carrying one, but those things can explode under heat. In this heat wave on the East Coast (Philly area), I left it out. Overcautious? Just respecting what is on the label of these things.
I just recently replaced the OEM Geolanders on my '01 at 37,500 miles. I bought Continentials "Conti-Tracks" (or something similar). The tires handle better in the 10-50 mph range, but it seems to me that the car is much more darty on the freeway >= 70mph. If there's any crosswind, I really need to correct the steering more than I did with the old tires. Is this possibly due to the tires? Or am I off base? Any ideas?
the following is not intended to be a solicitation or promotion of any kind, nor is the author seeking to gain anything from this post
if this message violates the agreement please feel free to remove it
"solar control" roscoe and woodley,16149 roscoe (it's technically north hills) the guy quoted 250 for metallic, 6 inches on windshield included at 20, not sure if ill do the windshield but the visors dont seem to be especially effective heading into the sun
Things you might want to check after getting new tires that could be the cause of the instability you feel:
- tire pressures - wheel alignment (usually a good idea to get after putting on new tires)
Also, new tires need a few hundred miles to break their mold. During this time, the tread isn't fully broken in and may not be giving you their intended performance. Remember to try and avoid unecessary hard cornering and braking during this period.
Also the conti-tracs may not be the correct weight rating for the forester. They might be the correct size but not weight which means weaker sidewalls and hence the sway at higher speeds.
Hi everyone. I just replaced by 1995 Nissan 200SX with a 2003 Subaru Forester XS Premium Package in red (I was planning on buying a white 2002 Forester, but got seduced by 2003!). I love it (850 miles so far), but I have some questions. 1. I am thinking about having the brush guard added to the front (somehow, that area on my cars always gets trashed), but I can't find a picture that shows the brush guard from the side. How far does the brush guard extend on the sides? Does it cover the whole bumper? If not, does the transition from brush guard to bumper look okay? 2. Mine has the security system (I didn't necessarily want it, but it came with the car). Several times I haven't been able to get the doors unlocked with the remote, and I have had to set off the alarm to get into my car (the neighbors LOVE it when that happens). Has anyone else had trouble? 3. Can I add a hard sided lockable roof storage unit to my Forester since it has a moonroof? Are those storage things pretty easy to take on and off, or once you put it on is it pretty much there forever?
I just passed the 1k mark and wanted to report the first MPG's tank 1= 28.9 tank 2= 27.3 tank 3= 28.7
All driven with 87 octane Texaco or Chevron. Tanks 1&3were entirely road miles near sea level tank 2 was a mixture of city 30% and road 70% at sea level. This looks really good to me. The shifting has gotten remarkably smoother. I need to remind myself to be careful in traffic this vehicle wants to move around slower traffic and it will maneuver with the slightest steering turn. The old 91 Leagcy is just a faint memory now. Bob
Anyone have a set of the 15" stock steel Forester wheels filling up their garage? I'm in the Pacific NW but also travel across the 94 to Chicago and Detroit frequently. You can reply directly to my email. Any other suggestions on a source would be appreciated.
I have a '98 Forester with aprox. 52,000 miles and the clutch pedal seems to have to be pushed really far down to disengage. The fluid level is fine. Is there an adjustment for this?
Please, no buying and selling on Town Hall. Try eBay for rims (you can even limit your search to the NW).... Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Krista, Regarding your number two question, I posted a message a few weeks ago complaining of similar problems.
In the 2 months I've had my Forester XS Premium, the security system has malfunctioned 5 or 6 times. It chirps twice like it's disarmed, but the doors don't unlock. I have to manually unlock the doors with the key to get in (the alarm does not go off). But then when I try to start the car, the alarm does goes off. After I disarm the alarm, the car will start, and the power locks eventually start working again after about 2-10 minutes. It happens every 1 or 2 weeks and it's really ticking me off!
Is this what you are experiencing? I am having mine serviced next week, and I am praying they can fix it. If you figure it out on your end, PLEASE let me know.
I don't have a lot of faith that my dealer is going to fix it, because the service manager told me on the phone that if they can't reproduce it when I bring it in, there's nothing they can do.
1) Thanks for telling me about Vinylex. I found it at Pep Boys and feel better about the hot sun beating down upon the dash.
2) I have yet to wax the car because I can't decide what to use. Klasse seems to be hard to find, but I may order it online. The only Zymol formulation I've been able to find is a cleaner/wax; I've been hesitant to use a cleaner/wax on a new surface.(I posted a question about that on the car care/cleaning topic.)
3) Re: the thread about aftermarket accessories-- at Target, I found red crates and a red laundry basket that closely match the red X. The items are part of a dorm room series that Target carries. Staples has a dark gray crate, slightly larger than the standard size crates, that would probably match the cargo tray.
When I test drove a 2002, I noticed that the accelerator was very sensitive. A slight touch would make it jump.
My 2003, however, is different. The accelerator is not as jumpy which is good, but I do have to push on it a little harder for the response. Also, when I remove my foot from the accelerator, the car feels like it is braking itself. It's a different feel from my last car, a FWD Toyota. Does all of this sound normal?
In what ways does an AWD car "feel" different from a FWD?
Did anyone else win a Subaru computer mouse that was mentioned earlier? I'd like to have one, but I haven't gotten a mailing with a password to let me in to that site.
I stopped by Fitzgeralds/Gathersburg today, as they are the only Subie dealer in this area that's open on Sundays.
I drove another '03 with the Hill Holder clutch. Here's what I found out:
• As long as the car's nose is pointed up hill, the Hill Holder will engage, no matter what gear.
• If the nose of the car is pointed down hill, the Hill Holder will NOT engage in any gear. The clutch acts like any other clutch, meaning the car will roll when you take your foot off the brake.
So, the Hill Holder activating switch must be gravity-controlled, engaging only when the car is facing up hill, no matter how slight the incline. Those who have said it engages on flat surfaces must have been on a *very* slight incline, I suspect.
I noticed an interesting sales flip chart, comparing the Forester with other makes. Would believe people actually cross-shop the Forester with the Buick Rendevous and the PT Cruiser!?
I guess the Subie sales staff have to be prepared for anything...
I saw a similar thing - a salesbook - when I was van shopping at the Nissan dealer. They had pros and cons of the van versus not only other vans, but SUVs and some wagons and hatchbacks. The book was about 4 inches thick! The salesman invited me to flip through it, and it was clear that few people would be able to remember all the model comparison advantages and disadvantages. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
There are people like me who cross shop totally different types of vehicles. I do it because my needs are fairly extreme, and everything is a compromise. At the moment we are debating just having one vehicle (which I insist has to be a new Wrangler - I'm not ready to give up off-roading yet), or having 2 - getting one of the Subarus as a primary vehicle and keeping our current Wrangler as a fun vehicle. But there are times I really would like a pickup truck. So how many people cross shop Subarus, Wranglers and pickups?
Comments
im getting tinted on saturday in van nuys. guy i talked to on the phone said he does a couple dozen subies a year and so far no probs. unlike the german cars he said. ill report back but i doubt it will be bad news.
thanks to all for the feedback!
on a different note i was reading some of the waxing posts two nights ago and tonight i used some of the tips and did my first wax job on my forester. it was only a one step meguiars (sp?) after washing with a palmolivish agent and drying with the chamois (wow what a way to dry) but it looks really good. when it wanes i shall wax again...
and finally after about 2K the hill holder seems to be easing up a bit, whew.. i downshift some instead of braking, don't know if that had (has) anything to do with it
- D
It works and gives me a GOOD idea of the outside temp. 3% is acceptable to me.
When you see the temp at 35 or cooler, you know things like bridges could be frozen over. That's handy because with AWD you may not slip, so the only way to know is to look at the gauge.
-juice
Nearing 10,000 miles and an average of 22mpg city/highway driving on my car during the past 15 gas station visits. One dent. One extra service visit (today) to resolve vibration in steering/front end (re-balanced all tires). Getting ready to switch over to synthetic oil next time 'round.
Later,
burnsmr4
-Frank P.
Ken
When is Australia supposed to get the new turbo Forester? I know you are without that model at present.
Bob
I was just joking concerning the accuracy (Fahrenheit vs. Kelvin). However, the purist in me cringes when a linear relationship is attached to an arbitrary fixed point. Who knows how the error really scales like with temperature, but I doubt very much the instrument is 100% accurate at the arbitrary point of 0F.
I also think that you can probably gauge the thermometer easily with a known temperature, after the car has been driven for a while (and not in stop-and-go traffic). The thermometer in my Passat (actually two, since I also have the climatronic) seems to provide good readings after 5 minutes or so. And the two thermometers agree to within about 0.5F (i.e., sometimes they show the same, sometimes they are off by one degree).
- D
That's unfortunate that you had an unrepairable flat so early on. I'm glad Subaru is taking care of the spare.
The new G900 was designed for the Forester (much like the previous Geolandar H/T). I'm sure stores such as Tire Rack will be carrying them soon, but you do make a valid point that replacements should be available upon vehicle introduction.
Ken
How high did they raise the seats? It really seems to make a difference.
-mike
this is a helpful feature for folks with disk probs and spondy......
regards to all
What shop in Van Nuys? I'm in Chatsworth and the only one I know of is Mr. Tint here. How much is he quoting you?
-M
I find the Outback thermometer is accurate within a degree or two Celsius. After the vehicle has been left for a time, it tends to read high for about five minutes after start up but then settles to stable.
Dietmar has spotted the better accuracy in the VW Passat. I was never sure where the sensor was fitted in my passat but, like him, I was impressed by the accuracy which was within half a degree Celsius.
Cheers
Graham
If you can't find one, I'd replace the flat with the spare, and then buy a different Yokohama tire of the same size/specs to be my spare. Just check the load and speed ratings to make sure they are at least as good, even though it won't matter much on a temporary spare.
I've heard the seats are about an inch higher, but that may be at the top of their adjustment travel. The new seats are really nice and supportive, but it still isn't a sky view seat like some taller SUVs.
Besides, when you auto cross, it would feel too tipsy, right Ed?
(note: Ed is taking his Forester to NASA autocross on Sunday for the first time. Have fun bud!)
-juice
Ed
So what do four Forester drivers talk about when they meet in the forest -- Foresters of course!
Since we've been talking about HP calculators in another topic, Don't Drink and Derive!
Cool story, Golden.
-juice
Does everyone else have this tool (maybe the dealer or Subaru forgot to include it)?
Thanks,
Michael
Ken
-juice
Come to think of it, it's amazing how much stuff I can get under the floor...
To that I've added a pair of pliers, a triangle file, a small adjustable wrench and the key to my lug locks. The pliers can be used as a wire snips in a pinch (pun intended... ). That all fits in the tool pouch.
Tow rope, tire chains, a can of Heet, a can of Instaflat, fire extinguisher, first aid kit, jumper cables, tie downs, bungies, and a flashlight complete my "kit". Flares seemed like overkill...
So am I "over-prepared", guys ?
By the way, has anyone ever run wires from the roof to the engine compartment? I'm trying to figure out where to run the wires, I don't want them coming inside the sunroof because then it won't close properly because of the air deflector. I tried running them down the sunroof drains, but can't seem to find out where they come out. There's a space between the fender panel and the inside of the engine compartment that I just can't access, and i think it's coming out there.
the following is not intended to be a solicitation or promotion of any kind, nor is the author seeking to gain anything from this post
if this message violates the agreement please feel free to remove it
"solar control" roscoe and woodley,16149 roscoe (it's technically north hills) the guy quoted 250 for metallic, 6 inches on windshield included at 20, not sure if ill do the windshield but the visors dont seem to be especially effective heading into the sun
had a job done there in 94 and it was good
hope this helps-
j
Things you might want to check after getting new tires that could be the cause of the instability you feel:
- tire pressures
- wheel alignment (usually a good idea to get after putting on new tires)
Also, new tires need a few hundred miles to break their mold. During this time, the tread isn't fully broken in and may not be giving you their intended performance. Remember to try and avoid unecessary hard cornering and braking during this period.
Ken
Anyone knows where I can order forester accessories to decorate my lovely forester from the internet? I could not find "any" from car shops in Taiwan.
Thanks in advance.
Chuanfang
-mike
-M
Michael
1. I am thinking about having the brush guard added to the front (somehow, that area on my cars always gets trashed), but I can't find a picture that shows the brush guard from the side. How far does the brush guard extend on the sides? Does it cover the whole bumper? If not, does the transition from brush guard to bumper look okay?
2. Mine has the security system (I didn't necessarily want it, but it came with the car). Several times I haven't been able to get the doors unlocked with the remote, and I have had to set off the alarm to get into my car (the neighbors LOVE it when that happens). Has anyone else had trouble?
3. Can I add a hard sided lockable roof storage unit to my Forester since it has a moonroof? Are those storage things pretty easy to take on and off, or once you put it on is it pretty much there forever?
Thanks in advance for your help!
tank 1= 28.9
tank 2= 27.3
tank 3= 28.7
All driven with 87 octane Texaco or Chevron. Tanks 1&3were entirely road miles near sea level tank 2 was a mixture of city 30% and road 70% at sea level. This looks really good to me. The shifting has gotten remarkably smoother. I need to remind myself to be careful in traffic this vehicle wants to move around slower traffic and it will maneuver with the slightest steering turn. The old 91 Leagcy is just a faint memory now. Bob
Thanks!
IdahoDoug
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Regarding your number two question, I posted a message a few weeks ago complaining of similar problems.
In the 2 months I've had my Forester XS Premium, the security system has malfunctioned 5 or 6 times. It chirps twice like it's disarmed, but the doors don't unlock. I have to manually unlock the doors with the key to get in (the alarm does not go off). But then when I try to start the car, the alarm does goes off. After I disarm the alarm, the car will start, and the power locks eventually start working again after about 2-10 minutes. It happens every 1 or 2 weeks and it's really ticking me off!
Is this what you are experiencing? I am having mine serviced next week, and I am praying they can fix it. If you figure it out on your end, PLEASE let me know.
I don't have a lot of faith that my dealer is going to fix it, because the service manager told me on the phone that if they can't reproduce it when I bring it in, there's nothing they can do.
Uuuugggghh!!!!!
Elliot
1) Thanks for telling me about Vinylex. I found it at Pep Boys and feel better about the hot sun beating down upon the dash.
2) I have yet to wax the car because I can't decide what to use. Klasse seems to be hard to find, but I may order it online. The only Zymol formulation I've been able to find is a cleaner/wax; I've been hesitant to use a cleaner/wax on a new surface.(I posted a question about that on the car care/cleaning topic.)
3) Re: the thread about aftermarket accessories-- at Target, I found red crates and a red laundry basket that closely match the red X. The items are part of a dorm room series that Target carries. Staples has a dark gray crate, slightly larger than the standard size crates, that would probably match the cargo tray.
My 2003, however, is different. The accelerator is not as jumpy which is good, but I do have to push on it a little harder for the response. Also, when I remove my foot from the accelerator, the car feels like it is braking itself. It's a different feel from my last car, a FWD Toyota. Does all of this sound normal?
In what ways does an AWD car "feel" different from a FWD?
Thanks.
So far, I've been using Shell regular. My first three tanks in mixed city/highway driving have been 26 mpg, 23 mpg, 26 mpg (rounded up).
I drove another '03 with the Hill Holder clutch. Here's what I found out:
• As long as the car's nose is pointed up hill, the Hill Holder will engage, no matter what gear.
• If the nose of the car is pointed down hill, the Hill Holder will NOT engage in any gear. The clutch acts like any other clutch, meaning the car will roll when you take your foot off the brake.
So, the Hill Holder activating switch must be gravity-controlled, engaging only when the car is facing up hill, no matter how slight the incline. Those who have said it engages on flat surfaces must have been on a *very* slight incline, I suspect.
Bob
I guess the Subie sales staff have to be prepared for anything...
Bob
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards