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Dodge Caravan Instrument Panel

phudsonphudson Member Posts: 1
in Dodge
I have a 92 dodge caravan the insturmental cluster is out. The spedometer, oil pressure, battery indicater, RPMS, Fuel gauge, are all not moving unless I go over a railroad track then they seem to come back on. What could be the problem? Checked fuses, wiggled the wiring and still nothing. Please Help!
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  • jmcdonelljmcdonell Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 dodge caravan the insturmental cluster is out. The spedometer, oil pressure, battery indicater, RPMS, Fuel gauge, are all not moving. What could be the problem? Checked fuses, wiggled the wiring and still nothing. Please Help!
  • mopar413mopar413 Member Posts: 2
    My caravan has the dash gauages quit then when you hit a bump there start working again. Sometimes you can just hit the dash. It is a 98.
  • rickmnrickmn Member Posts: 19
    This is a known problem with Caravans/Voyagers. It's most often caused by a bad solder joint on the instrument cluster circuit board. To remove the instrument cluster, you have to remove a lot of trim pieces. Start at the bottom of the dash and remove the screws. Then remove each trim piece by pulling on it. Don't forget to remove the screws on the side of the dash that hold the vent louver in place. Once you have the trim pieces off, remove the 4 screws that hold in the cluster. Pull the cluster forward and unsnap the red power connector. Then remove the cardboard insulator from the cluster and remove the circuit board. Use a low power soldering gun to resolder all the connections from the power connector. Then reassemble. That poor connection repair cures the problem in 90% of the cases. The bad connection is why it works if you smack the dash.
  • rickmnrickmn Member Posts: 19
    This is a known problem with Caravans/Voyagers. It's most often caused by a bad solder joint on the instrument cluster circuit board. To remove the instrument cluster, you have to remove a lot of trim pieces. Start at the bottom of the dash and remove the screws. Then remove each trim piece by pulling on it. Don't forget to remove the screws on the side of the dash that hold the vent louver in place. Once you have the trim pieces off, remove the 4 screws that hold in the cluster. Pull the cluster forward and unsnap the red power connector. Then remove the cardboard insulator from the cluster and remove the circuit board. Use a low power soldering gun to resolder all the connections from the power connector. Then reassemble. That poor connection repair cures the problem in 90% of the cases. The bad connection is why it works if you smack the dash.
  • jmcdonelljmcdonell Member Posts: 4
    well, i hope this does the trick.just to add a few more symptoms whenever i hit the turn signal the indicator light comes on in the dash but not on the outside of the vehicle as well that when all the guages go crazy.i also noticed that the cluster is quit dim on the one side.but hitting the dash never cured the problem like you said.thanks for the quick reply.jamie
  • jmcdonelljmcdonell Member Posts: 4
    well unfortunatly the cluster wasen't the problem.where to go now...?where would i find that box that controls the instrument panel..?
  • bs24bs24 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 dodge grand caravan with the same problem. Exept my digital read out doesnt work on my panel either. You know the miles and the gears. If you ground a wire from the body control module the gas and oil will work but nothing else. Any ideas?
  • slkingslking Member Posts: 1
    How long did it take you to figure this one out? We've been having this problem for almost two years!!! My husband is trying your fix right now. His father is a mechanic and had no clue what the problem could be when he was here last. And now I'm going through a "it can't be that simple" argument from the both of them. Hope it works! I'm depending on you!!!
  • jmcdonelljmcdonell Member Posts: 4
    i finally fixed my problem on my 2002 caravan ,the problem beeing the "BDM controller" you know dodge has a problem with this system since they have a exchange program in place for this particular van.it's located right under the dash, left of the brake pedal.it has approx 6 plugs going into it.again my symptoms where no speedo,tach,fuel and temp and my signal lights would not work at all.hope this helps.

    jamie
  • 98voyager98voyager Member Posts: 1
    :( So my 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE has developed this intermittent problem that lead me to this forum. I've copied the messages from rickmn and will hopefully get to review this information tonight, but I'd like to post my specific issue and make sure this thread is my issue as well.

    Driving down the road late afternoon to softball and hear the power locks engage (but already going 30+ MPH) so I then try pressing the keyless entry because I thought I remembered that it is disabled when driving, it doesn't work. Next thing I notice all the gauges mpg, rpm, oil and gas flatline, but the car is running fine. A few seconds (up to 30 or so) later everything comes back on... then it happens again. Oddly enough this has not happened to me in the morning. Any replies are appreciated.
  • bubba214bubba214 Member Posts: 3
    I have the exact same van, and same problem. Problems started last night. Small world... I took it to Autozone to check the alternator. It works fine. Battery is fine, starter is fine. The guy at autozone thinks I need to replace the Powertrain Control Module. I doubted this was the problem, but since this was a special order item, and I wanted to fix this quick, I placed an order for it ($360!!!). Took it to my mechanic this morning. Troubleshot it a loose battery terminal. Everything seemed to work then. Took it home, an lo and behold, it was doing it again. Only this time, it was less frequent. Will drop off van with him Monday. Stay tuned...
  • aprendizaprendiz Member Posts: 17
    I have to get access to a/c evaporator in a Chrysler - Voyager 2000. Any indication / pics as how should I proceed?
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Member Posts: 55
    "Took it to my mechanic this morning. Troubleshot it a loose battery terminal."

    Hi everyone! I have been over in the Jeep Liberty CRD forum for the last year, but I also have a 2006 Caravan. When I bought the van, it had a dead battery (it had been sitting on the lot for over a year)....the van jump-started just fine, but the guages jumped all over the place....most other electronic devices acted the same way (going on and off)....it was found that the battery was defective....replaced the battery, and everything has been normal ever since with no problems and no re-occurances. Just FYI, but you might have your battery retested or look for any loose connections along the way.

    Twocycle2
  • bubba214bubba214 Member Posts: 3
    took a friend of mine a weekend to do it. i'll see if i can dig up photos
  • bubba214bubba214 Member Posts: 3
    OK. After a week, the problem stopped. So it was a loose battery connection after all. No need for the powertrain control module. cancelled my order.
  • rwilliamsonrwilliamson Member Posts: 3
    I really really nead help with this.
    I have a 92 Dodge Caravan that has instrument problems. I have tried 3 different clusters and all do exactily the same. The instruments only work when the headlights or parking lights are on. When the instruments are inoperative, the windshield wiper delay functions also don't work. Turning the lights on while driving causes the door locks to activate also... The local repair shop gave up after 4 weeks of messing around.
  • geigusgeigus Member Posts: 1
    The instrument panel on my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan does not illuminate. The odometer and transmission range indicator both light and can be dimmed or brightened by using the dimmer switch. The dimmer switch can also be used to turn off or on the interior lights. I've determined that the fuse is good. The last potential simple fix is to try to change the bulb, but I need to how to take the dash apart to get to the bulb. How do I do that?
  • pmack1pmack1 Member Posts: 4
    To you and the gentlemen you were replying to the problem is your BCM (body control module) pn#04801062AE, I am about 99% sure of this. I repair these allllll day long and the 1998 build bcm for the minivans are horrible. There is so many issues with these things it is a joke. The problem you are having is that a 330 ohm resistor (a 5 cent part) is opening intermittently (for now). Once you replace the bcm and it fixes the problem do not be surprised if in the not to distant future you have another problem. I work for one of seven reman centers for these things and we tried getting Huntsville electronics (who makes these) to scrap all current bcm's and make a new build because these are so unreliable even after remanned. You obviously know how that went over. Chrysler is only required to have a supply on parts for their vehicles for 10 years and if they can make that time they dont care about the customer. If I can help any of you in anyway feel free to contact me. I may be able to help you get a deal on your repair.
  • pmack1pmack1 Member Posts: 4
    The first build of 1992 body controllers for this vehicle have a service bulletin on them to scrap them for this exact issue. My guess would be this is your problem.
  • pmack1pmack1 Member Posts: 4
    You do not need to take apart the cluster to replace the bulbs. There is 8 bulbs in the back of that cluster that burn out "surprise, surprise" usually around the time the warranty expires. It is real easy. Hope I helped you out.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    Thank you for the information. I am sure that many of us minivan suckers will need it... again and again. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • madmike3madmike3 Member Posts: 2
    Looks like it got me too. I have a 2000 Voyager. Occasionally when I would start the car the instruments, AC and rear wiper controls were dead. The odometer and shift indicator were also dead and the ABS light was on. Everything would come back accompanied by the click of the door locks. It happened more and more until now it seems permanent. I checked all connections since it looked like a grounding issue and I even removed the junction block and BCM checking for water damage or burned components. Everything looks good but it still doesn’t work. Unless someone has a better answer I think I will get a BCM.
  • shmoyagershmoyager Member Posts: 1
    I've Googled and read nearly all messages related to my issue, but none that nail it- so here goes:

    FIRST: Instrument panel, including all gauges, will flatline and then return when it feels like it. The common forum answer seemed to be a bad solder job on the instrument panel.

    THEN: My Hi-beams stopped working, wipers are intermittent, Driver side interior dome light may or may not turn on, usually a few seconds after door is opened, then turns off immediately.

    FINALLY: Now I have a P1698 OBDII Error Code and the torque converter is not engaging (van starts fine, but stalls when put into gear. If I rev the engine at the precise moment I can get it into drive, but seems to be in limp mode, as it doesn't shift at high rpms). Oh, and I now sometimes have no LO beams either.

    CONCLUSION...?: My guess is that the tranny is not bad. Rather, since the tranny on this van is electronically controlled and has given me NO issues prior to these electrical problems, I feel everything is related to an electronic issue. I've checked for secure connections on the PCM and PDC, but that's the extent of my abilities. If I knew how to read a wiring diagram I would hope to find that the instrument panel, lights and TCM all meet somewhere, and that this would be the culprit. I don't want to have it towed to a transmission shop only to find out that it was something like a bad BCM all along.

    ANY help would be GREAT!
  • madmike3madmike3 Member Posts: 2
    Well, I bought a BCM and installed it and the condition did not change. I still have no gages, ac controls or rear wiper (all the little buttons are dead). The car runs normally and I even get the bell when the fuel is low but no indicator. Still looking.
  • shagyashagya Member Posts: 5
    Hello. I hear quite a bit about BCM problems. I have a few which might be related [on a 92 Voyager 3.3l V6]. The "door ajar" light won't go out and if the headlights are still switched on after the ignition is turned off then I have to turn them off-on-off. Thought there was a timer delay on the headlights but I don't think that works or doesn't exist. I wonder if a schematic diagram exists for these BCMs? A competent electronics designer could probably build these from scratch.

    :)
  • shagyashagya Member Posts: 5
    Speaking about things not working. I put this comment on BCMs in the wrong place. Sorry.
  • rjigto4ojerjigto4oje Member Posts: 1
    i read your blog about this 330 ohm resistor is this somthing that can be purchased at radio shack or you said that you could help on a repair
  • juliet5juliet5 Member Posts: 1
    Just picked up my 98 Grand Caravan from the mechanic today. Everything fixed! He found 3 bad solder connections in the instrument panel. He resoldered joints, reassembled instrument panel and reinstalled everything, all in less than 2 hours and under $120. My original problem is described as follows: every now and then van would rev up but not turn over. Odometer, speedometer etc would not engage. After 3 tries the car would be dead. Would not jump to start. After a few minutes or overnight the van would mysteriously start up again and run fine. The last time this happened I did some research and found a post by theburl on another topic on this site (#3167) about hitting the dash just above the steering wheel, tried it and voila! My van started right up. You turn the key half way and then smack the dash, then turn the key all the way. Worked 3 times before I got it to the mechanic for a true repair. I am so happy I found this site and got such useful information. I am a mom of 3 who knows nothing about cars and I find this website fascinating. I love my Caravan!
  • lshrmlshrm Member Posts: 2
    I need to replace bulbs on my 98 Plymouth Voyager (Service Engine Soon), however cannot figure out how to reach them, please help if you have already done this. Thanks.
  • lshrmlshrm Member Posts: 2
    Need to replace Information Center bulb on my 98 Plymouth Voyager (Service Engine Soon), however cannot figure out how to reach them. Saw a post that says "no need to take cluster apart to replace the bulb" did not say how, any suggestion on how to get to those bulbs? Please share, will help me a lot. Thanks.
  • ezbdanielsezbdaniels Member Posts: 1
    you have to take the instrument cluster out, and reach up and behind the light on the dash. its the first one to the left from the center.
  • 98voyager198voyager1 Member Posts: 1
    :shades: MY MECHANIC FOUND AND FIXED IT! I have a 98 Plymouth Grand Voyager, Expresso purchased new. It had been doing all of the electric issues raised. Dealership where it was purchased new replaced every computer chip they could charge me for (@ $600 bucks a chip no less)! Out of total disgust went to body shop mechanic who sent me to mechanic across the street from him and HE FOUND IT-FIXED IT! And to confirm that he fixed it--the repair was done late last year and I am still driving today without any issues! THE MAN IS INCREDIBLE. The problem is with the mother board for the electrical; the soldering cracked. If you let it go long enough the van starts stalling out completely and won't turn over especially in humid weather. I used to pound on the dashboard behind the steering wheel when it wouldn't turn over and sometimes that would help. I was towed 3 separate times (in the rain) because the car would not turn over but turned over the minute it was taken off the flatbed because the car had been "jiggled and tossed about"--"Sounds like the battery" "Sounds like the starter","Sounds like...." And I replaced all of it! You need to speak with this man: Dominic, owner/operator of DMC Automotive, Hatboro, Pennsylvania-- He is a certified, factory-trained Mercedes repair service center. (Daimler is Mercedes). First thing Dominic said was Mercedes had a problem like this and he found it. So, I am still driving my 1998 purple Plymouth Grand Voyager today (10-9-2007)--lovingly referred to as "Barney Boat". Except now the engine has an oil leak and its "clunking" at red lights and the transmission probably has to be replaced. BUT--it's not stalling out and the dashboard doesn't flicker and/or flatline anymore! Can you guess where I'm taking it---Please let Dominic know the lady with the purple "Plymouth Voyager" sent you! Dominic feels the car is beginning to cost me but how many new cars today cost $3,000?
  • cazman1cazman1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a few questions about my '98 Grand Caravan along those lines. I wasn't sure if it is even possible to contact you off list.
  • johenmarjohenmar Member Posts: 2
    I have a 04801062AE BCM that's effecting the headlights. The high beams work, but the headlights don't. The interior lights don't work either.

    What can I do to repair the bcm I have or do I have to go to Chrysler and pay $700.

    Any help would be appreciated!!

    Joe
  • tc_joetc_joe Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to hear about the tranny problems, but thanks for posting. I'm having the dash problem too, just for clarification, when you say "mother board" you mean the printed circuit board for the instrument cluster, behind the dashboard, correct? Just checking because mother board could mean any of the computers - body control module (BCM) or powertrain control module (PCM) among others. I did check my circuit board and resoldered all the connectors and checked for any other bad solder connections - I believe my problem in in the BCM. Thanks!
  • vannistvannist Member Posts: 1
    I need hep with this. My Dodge Grand Caravan's instrument panel light is off. Please tell me in more details to replace the bulb. By the way, is it possible that the bulb is ok but the fuse is burned? Thank you very much.
  • sjasja Member Posts: 11
    I have a 99 GCV and the instruments are flatlined. I've posted my dismay under electrical problems. In addition, I've submitted a complaint to the NHSTB at the following site:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

    I encourage all to place a their complaint here as it is most definately a manufacturing defect that is causing our woes.

    The Chrysler Corporation needs to be held accountable for this problem, as well as many others I'm sure. :lemon:
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Unfortunately for Chrysler, the problems with the dash can be mostly laid at the feet of the government. Why? Because of the efforts that the government has gone to to mandate ever lower levels of lead in solder, and it isn't just Chrysler that is suffering from this change (hello NASA, not to mention virtually every other manufacturer out there).

    The good news for you is that the repair for your dash is typically VERY cheap. Pull the panel, find the failed solder connection and resolder it.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • sjasja Member Posts: 11
    I am finding this very difficult to comprehend. $12.00 for a 15/30 watt soldering iron at Radio Shack, an hours worth of work, and the instruments now work. I could not tell which connection was bad so I touched the iron to the backside of where the black connector goes into the panel. Then took the panel further apart and touched all the connections for the lower connector. The gages and rear window wiper work. The ABS light is out and after disconnecting the battery for awhile, the Service Engine Soon light extinguished.

    Let's see how long this works. I've seen some strange things in my life, but never anything like this. Thanks Shipo.
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    i just bought a 93 voyager my whole dash went out now all my lights are blinking in and out can any one help me please already checked instrument cluster it looked fine didnt see any bad or cracked solder
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    what is a bcm and where is it located can i have it fixed or should i buy new or go to junk yard?thank you
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    BCM = Body Control Module. Beyond that, I am not qualified to make recommendations.... ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sjasja Member Posts: 11
    The first time I took the instrument cluster apart, I did not see any bad connections. I went and purchased a soldering iron just to try it out on the connections. To my amazement, it worked. I got a 15/30 watt iron and on the low setting, just touched it (enough to see the solder start to melt) to the backside of where the main plug goes in and also to the lower electrical connection.

    I understand through reading this post that the body control module (BCM) may also be a trouble spot, but figured I would take the cheap way out first. I The BCM is located somewhere behind the fuse panel in the lower left forward cabin, right above where your left foot would rest.

    By the way, two dodge dealers I went to never heard of these electrical problems...
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    i bought it from a dealer ship they wont call me back told me just the speed guage didnt work now its going crazyi will try the solder gun but i can tell they tryed to find the problem cause you can see they were checkin the wires
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    By the way, two dodge dealers I went to never heard of these electrical problems...

    Plausible deniability? Perhaps, though with the frequency of the problem, it does not seem plausible. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    well tryed the soldier didnt work guess ill try bcm
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    well the problem is fixed it was bad bcm
  • dantondanton Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for this tip, rickmn, For years our 1997 Grand Caravan had a ghost that affected everything from the wipers coming on, to instrument lights flickering, to losing all gauges while driving, to not starting if the LEDs didn't appear upon turning the key. By shear accident (me punching the dash in frustration) did I learn of the "temporary cure". All attempts to really fix the problem via dealers/reputable shops only resulted in a proposed $1000 bcm replacement with no assurance that it would really work. Why few know (or will acknowledge) the real problem doesn't surprise me, but I'm glad I found this forum. I removed the instrument cluster and found a fracture around a soldered post associated with the red power connector. Low-watt re-solder done and the problem should be gone. Since the ghost is intermittent, I'll have to wait and see if any further re-soldering is needed. But the repair is easy, its a shame more reputable repair shops are not aware of this issue and the easy fix. Buck$ and happy customers could be made.
  • jimmymc6969jimmymc6969 Member Posts: 13
    and i only cost me 90 bucks 25 for bcm 65 to put it in
  • earlguceearlguce Member Posts: 1
    had the same instrument cluster problem with my 96 grand caravan last year here in the philippines. its lights and needles began flickering for no reason. worked intermittently but eventually died out weeks after. tried thumping on the dash to shake possible lose solder on any circuitry (suggestion got from one of the threads).

    solved the problem by replacing the back circuit board. replaced it from a $30 instrument cluster i got from a pick & pull in sacramento.

    now it's working. the only catch is the odometer now reads in miles, not in its original kilometer reading.
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